From my personal experience as a newbie:
Step 1: Use a caliper to take measurements, think in 3d, lots of measurements
Step 2: Watch lots of YouTube videos on modeling for days
Step 3: After getting overwhelmed use duct tape
I spent about 10 hours making a Roku 3 battery cover. Absolute junk.
Had a brain fart and looked online. Had one printed off in an hour that was nearly indistinguishable from the original. Man, some people are talented!
It's a common device, someone probably already did the work already. Always look up the device, then previous generations and remodel them, then similar covers but not the same and change it to fit. Then follow the previous steps listed in this post.
Could also print out a rig that allows you to take perfectly oriented profile pictures. Add a reference to the pictures and you’ll get pretty close to actual dimensions.
In fusion 360 you can import the profile pics and scale it with the reference. Use poly-line or curve and you can now sketch all the lines. If you extrude those profiles and merge all the shapes it should give you the part you can now export as an stl.
Or just freeball the profile pics. I do that for a lot of “quick functional prints”. So long as the ratio of sides remain the same you can scale it close enough to meet the tolerances you are looking for
If it's not elliptical you can just measure the height difference with a caliper and make a rounded 90 degrees corner. Hard to explain, but that worked for me
Honestly, from the picture, the radius of the curve looks pretty close to that of the curve of the AA batteries. With a few iterations they could probably get pretty close by using the battery as a model for that curve. Figuring that out should be the hardest part, after that it’s just a matter of measuring the flats.
perfect! Buy this, create a silicone mold, then pour resin into the mold to create a second part. Then return the part, or buy another with a missing battery door. Perfect
Just get better at modelling… easy as that. Or go on fiver and try to find someone who does it for a fee. But, words of wisdom: in these type of replacements, very rarely the first iteration fits.
Yes, it's like you have the most perfect part and then you print it out and wonder where you went wrong😂
But just keep at it, dimension tweaking is a valuable skill
Modeling this cover is not too difficult. Draw a crossection of the cover. Extrude it to the right width. Add the interfaces. Aand... it's done. Probably you only need the extrude feature 😇
Okay cool! It’s kinda hard to see in the picture but it does curve down
https://preview.redd.it/a3puu07yohkc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=5d8f3fe050896dec17682e5e7dc7b7bd69c13415
Also print a thin (like 3-5mm) strip first, see how it fits. Adjust as needed, add the latch parts to hold it in place, print those on another thin strip. If it works well, print the whole thing. That's the beauty of practical prints
Yup, always better to print just a part of it to see if it fits so you don’t end up waiting for hours for your print to finish just to realize it doesn’t.
Modeling stuff out is kind of like a puzzle. There are many, many ways to achieve the same result. You’ll get better at figuring out the best ways to do it as you practice more. I find it kind of addictive.
I use this one:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1921128
I never need internal radii, so it’s been fine so far. I’d really like to print this one:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:149026
but I already have the one above, and filament is exorbitantly priced where I live so I can’t justify a new print for something I already have.
Of you haven’t anything to messure the easiest way is just to make test prints.
Like radius x with angle y, make it a 1mm stripe, 1mm high and print it. The longest part of these print is the 6-7min of preprint routine of the bambu itself. (Still wonder why Bambu hadn’t done anything to optimize this…)
I haven't tried this yet, but is it possible to just do a LIDAR scan with phones/tablets that have that, to get a 3d model of what you have, then make a model that fills the space needed, in a shape that matches the model you scanned? Or is that not accurate enough yet?
I also suppose you could use a photo in modeling software then trace the curve, but getting everything in the photo to be perfect flat angles is probably not the easiest.
This seems on the simpler side of things, but I suppose I'm also wondering for more complicated, organic designs where random complicated shapes need to fit into a gap
Both work but have their pros and cons.
I usually use photos from 3 side, i dont have a scanner. Make an image from far away and zoom in as much as possible to remove parallax. And measure the part / gap. Then paste the images on the 3 planes in your cad software and scale them according to the measurements.
Google this: [canvas modelling](https://www.google.com/search?q=fusion+360+cad+model+feom+canvas&client=ms-android-samsung-ss&sca_esv=df95c88c09499125&sxsrf=ACQVn0_KnbOVAQNtWlqvQQU8fNYDPPyupQ%3A1708772866046&ei=As7ZZd-oAsv87_UPqoe_aA&oq=fusion+360+cad+model+feom+canvas&gs_lp=EhNtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1zZXJwIiBmdXNpb24gMzYwIGNhZCBtb2RlbCBmZW9tIGNhbnZhczIJECEYChigARgKSJhVUIATWJxLcAB4ApABAJgB0QGgAfMWqgEGOS4xNS4xuAEDyAEA-AEBmAIRoALREMICBBAAGEfCAggQABiABBiiBMICCBAAGIAEGMsBwgIEECMYJ8ICBRAhGKABwgIGEAAYFhgewgIEECEYFcICBRAhGJ8FwgIHECEYChigAZgDAIgGAZAGCJIHBDQuMTM&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp)
My super lazy way of doing stuff like this is to find existing models that have the components I want, then just cutting and slamming them together in TinkerCAD and resize as needed.
So, like, for this, I'd probably search "battery door stl" and find one that looks like it has the same kind of latch thing, and another that looks like it has the right curvature/ general shape, and then do a little lazy editing. But this is because I'm garbage at CAD programs and have no patience
I don't know the lengths, so I had to guess. But that took 2 minutes. Would need to add a closing mechanism (if you want it perfectly).
https://preview.redd.it/wdyluscm8ikc1.png?width=758&format=png&auto=webp&s=230228668e95b175e11147b65b0ed0cd69e77e05
Hey heres the measurements
1 1/2cm by 4 1/4cm depth of 0 1/4cm. The tab is 0 3/4cm by 0 3/4cm. Dont own digital callipers
https://preview.redd.it/4ugz5l4dvlkc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=b149f50b2935bb06735f59cc171e5d4537cba054
Pt1
I'll try my best tomorrow, need some sleep for that first.
I'm sorry, but I can't figure out your 1 1/2cm (and so on) data. What do you mean by that?
I only understand metric system. 1 1/2cm = 15mm, but that don't seems to make sense.
I'll also need the angle of the radius.
I didn't say "a lot", if you're going to paraphrase don't use quotation marks.
But it's a non-specific term
It's hard to say from just the pictures, but the snap feature for closure, the parts which engage at the bottom need work, looks like there a recessed groove around the perimeter, many of these have features which mate with the curvature of the battery to hold them in place better.
Lots of features.
Are you really nitpicking that "lots" is a different thing then "a lot"?
Are you really that pendantic that a phrase that carries the exact same meaning is spelled minutely differently?
DANG. I'd better learn CAD for real then. it's that easy?! It seems so intimidating! I do OK with basic shapes (cube, sphere, cylinder, basically anything drag and droppable that i can combine with other basic shapes) but anything that's like, "this is flat but has a slight curve" confuses me to death.
They're exaggerating, but 90% of the work is in the measuring anyways... So you'd already be doing most of it with your way too.
Although half the time I find someone already made the exact part I needed, so it's still well worth searching first.
>it's that easy?!
Depends on the program. Some have a frustrating learning curve.
Start by sketching (pen and paper) it will help a lot. In my opinion, getting on to "how things should be drawn and by what order operations should be made" is the most difficult part.
This is fascinating.
See, I'd never recommend anyone sketching first - I suck at sketching (or rather, I haven't done it a lot, so it takes too long if I have to make anything useful). Instead, CAD often IS my preferred method of sketching (so I will build CAD models of projects, even when their production doesn't involve machining). CAD models let me see exactly how things fit together, before I start cutting or welding shit together.
I love how differently people approach making stuff!
They don't have to be "textbook examples of what a sketch should be" but they help a lot.
It's mostly for "organizing ideas" and having a visual reference. It's more intuitive doing a visual reference on paper (it can be a lousy one).
In this case, you would use swap instead of extrusion.
You draw a line with the radius where the curve is, then draw the length and thickness of the "door", then you can swap this profile along the curve you draw.
Add some close mechanism to it, done.
Need to take maybe about 10 meassurements, its designed in less than 5min when you have the meassurements done.
For beginer, maybe takes 20min.
The output of the photogrammetry (and Lidar) apps will rarely make for a good print without editing the resulting mesh. Personally I find mesh editing way harder than modelling.
My tip: try Shapr3D
https://www.shapr3d.com
Duct tape. If you can’t fix it with that, no amount of CAD will help you. Check out functional print Fridays on YouTube. He has great videos on creating missing/broken/unavailable parts for stuff.
if you haven't done so already you might try a few google searches for "whatever\_model\_number\_device\_name 3d printable". Maybe include the word "parts" or "stl" or the like. Could be someone has already modeled it and has it available on thingiverse or the like.
If you want to make something to fit it to learn how to model things, the biggest tip i can give you is *just make something*. Take some pictures, make a few measurements. You can import a photo of the thing into most modelling software and then draw on it to get an idea for the shape. Draw something close, and then just 3d print it and you will see where you are going wrong. It really is the best way to teach yourself.
If you just want something to hold the batteries in, buy a replacement or use tape.
To add to what daekle said, if you have a (paper) printer with a scanner, scan the part with a ruler next to it. Import the image into your modeling software and draw a line that is a few cm long. Then resize the picture until the ruler matches the line exactly. If you want more accuracy draw another line that is a few mm and make sure that matches the mm lines on your ruler. You now have a template to draw your part sketch on.
Buy a cheap set of calipers. Measure and draw it up in Fusion 360. Test print and check if it fits. Adjust your model and print again until you get it right. I do this all the time for stuff like this. No one is born with CAD skills. Watch some YouTube tutorials on Fusion and practice on projects like this. Sometimes it takes me 3-4 test prints to get something like this to fit right and I have been doing CAD design for 25 yrs. It’s fun stuff. You learn a lot just from this one project.
UPDATE: just printed out a test, fits good just need to fix the corner
https://preview.redd.it/ubgehg5comkc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=8b603d3a9aa7f7e1d2e676ab22e49f2f39aa35a8
(☞ﾟヮﾟ)☞ Well done! ☜(ﾟヮﾟ☜)
I came here because I'm new to 3D printing and I want to start creating my own models. Which program did you use for modeling this part?
Grab a caliper. measure dimensions. create model.
A lot of modeling programs can take dimension constraints.
For example, FreeCAD.
Record measurements -> Put into sketch -> Pad Sketch -> Shape 1
Record measurements -> Put into sketch -> Pad Sketch -> Shape 2
Do some boolean (additive and subtractive) of Shape 1 and 2.
https://preview.redd.it/fjm7ulfg2ikc1.png?width=450&format=png&auto=webp&s=83627433b9fb97c7fefe17b8d91ed308146912b8
The hard part is the boolean. You need to make the shape of the negative space then subtract.
How I will do this battery cover is that I'll measure the sideways shape, then pad it to the correct length, then subtract the excess to make the "Open" tab.
No front, but that sounds and looks way too complicate for such a basic thing.
I don't see the necessary of a boolean operation here...
And why not jus draw it with the right lengs from begining?
https://preview.redd.it/yskg24qobikc1.png?width=1562&format=png&auto=webp&s=8feab8b808210b30047f1dc6cf63d99a7a5e2442
>And why not jus draw it with the right lengs from begining?
Will take 2 sketches either way.
Here's a faster one with just Boolean or Pad or Subtract.
There's a lot of ways to do this.
I see people have already suggested ducktape. You could however also try ramen. Take two packs, crush them up. mix with glue and shape to perfection with sandpaper. (Or a rock, if you have a really low budget.)
Do you got callipers?
1. Measure deep of lid by measuring the grove to back.
2. Measure the length of the slot
3. Put a ruler behind it and Measure the width of the slot to the ruler (ignore the curvature for now. )
4. Measure the deep inside the slith ignoring the curvature
5. Model A “L” shape by creating two cubes that matches. X/Y/ deep
And X/Z/deep
Then put then together and use the union of the modell.
At this stage i Would print it draft level to see I didn’t make a mistake.
Then round the corner
And also create the locking mechanism same way as 1-5… and add that to the model.
By now I would print it normal 0.2 to do a test fit.
If something is wrong I would modify and re print.
Buy a $1300 iPhone with a Lidar 3D scanner. Scan the radio battery compartment and import it into Fusion 360 as a reference. Draw the rest of the fucking owl.
Battery covers kinda suck to make because the little teeth, and the spring to hold it in place, are very easy to break. Someone LMK if you've made this work.
If you really want to Model it because you want to and not have to, watch some tutorials and lots of try/error is gonna need. If you just want to cover it up, tape it
This would be pretty easy to model I think. I’d first print a chamfer gauge to make the cover match the radio. Then use calipers to measure thickness it needs to be and pop the clip right in the middle. I personally use shapr3d.
After 4 years I'm still using tinkercad, mostly because real modeling software is overwhelming for me. I usually start with a basic shape, then start carving from it like a stone and chisel. I would make the shape with a rectangle and a corner round, then a "hole" on the back side with the same shape. Then add some of the details once I have the basic shape. Oh yeah, when you go to slice it make sure you orient properly. Tabs and whatnot need to be perpendicular to layer lines so they don't snap off
take a top down photo.
measure the overall dimensions from the top
do the same from the side
bring these two photos into cad and scale it with your dimensions
sketch the cover you think will work
print it and adjust design as necessary
by the 3rd-5th iteration, you'll have a pretty good fitting design
Learn how to model. I think that having a practical need (in this case "need" might be an overstatement) is the best motivation to learn how to do something.
Print off a radius gauge for the filets, easy to find on thingy verse both in metric and imperial super handy i keep one at my desk. And just be mindful of tolerances things tend to shrink it may take some oversizing and post-processing for a tight fit.
It may seem a bit backwards, but start by trying to model the device itself instead of the battery cover.
Just do your best to match the dimensions and the weight of the fillet curve. Once you have a rough rectangle the same shape as the device, hollow it out and start measuring the shape of the cover cutout and go from there.
GL
buy a $20 digital caliper on amazon, or harbor freight. Start measuring. Get good at modeling. It takes a while. This might be a perfect project to learn how to model. You're going to print like 20 prototypes, so keep your printer on its draft settings when prototyping. Start by printing a flat rectangle piece that fits between the main opening, then slowly start building the walls that cover the bottom part, when you know it fits find that clip part and try printing it at various thicknesses to make sure it won't break after 2 opens. Good luck!
I'm with you, but printing a flat rectancle that fit's is not what I recommend to do. Just needs filament for nothing.
If you meassure for example 100mm, just model 99.8 (0.1 tolerance on each side). When you model 99.8 and the print is 100.2, you're off at .4 mm by your printer, not in CAD. It's time to adjust the printer then (shrinking rate etc). This model shoud be modeling with maybe 3-4hours of practicing (when never CAD designed before) and 1-3 prints. Not more.
After perfectly calibrate my K1 Max, I can model 100mm and the final print is 100mm too.
This is actually difficult to do. Easy to model the shape, but difficult to get the many dimentions accuratly. And at lease 5 prints to refine the model, try dimentions and slicer settings.
[spend $15 and save yourself the headache ](https://www.ebay.com/itm/394598285065?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=plmHsUJNTuy&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Vo755BBURuy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=SMS)
I would first just ignore it....
If I can't I would try if I am lucky to find it.
If not I would measure and draw it and it would need me a 5 prints till it really fits
you probably need to measure it with calipers but any ruler is fine, I suggest you to put ruler on and do few pics with ruler on, possibly from top and side angle, then i can figure out dimensions :D
Measure everything, make a model based on this measurement in whatever cad software you prefer, print, test, adjust for errors, print and test again. Repeat the las few steps till you have a satisfying result.
Start watching learn fusion 360 in 30 days on YouTube. That’s what I did and I pretty much know the basics now and can model simple things. Oh and get yourself a pair of calipers if you don’t have them already
You have another way to fix your problem, you can replace the battery system, just match the input voltage, you could also add a power unit to recharge the battery
I started by doing things that I got the original one to mesure first.
It will easy do that way, without a lot off details.
Get some basics of drawing first.
Cut a soda bottle, trace the part you need and use a heat gun (hair dryer can work if it’s good enough) to form it. I got real good at in my teen years when I would inevitably break stuff.
If you can’t do the complex models, just make a base for the thing to sit on and make a panel that goes straight up for the object to sit against. May work. Better to make it so that the object is secure in the base.
Take paper and a pencil to make tracing. Measure the tracing on your paper to get the radius right for the 3d shape. Make your first print and iterate.
Measure the x,y,z dimensions of the part, then think about if you can model the part as a 2d shape with a length for the basic shape. This part is mostly a right angle two sides of a right triangle and can definitely be extruded a length.
Then model a tab to try to fit in the hole. That might take a few shapes, but you have seen a hundred battery covers in your life you will figure it out
First I search for a similar model online. Then I import it into Blender. I have a window with ChatGPT open for me to ask questions on how to use Blender. I learn as I go, stretching and compressing the model until it meets the requirements that I need.
learn to model
I'd find [photos](https://encompass-11307.kxcdn.com/imageDisplay?id=11822392&mfgCode=MSC&size=s) of the [part](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71OPB5JOkoL._AC_SL1500_.jpg) online then trace a simple outline of the profile of the door then extrude it to the correct length. once that fit snugly, I'd print out the lock tab using the same technique and lastly the door arms.
But then again, it's a $7 replacement part. So I'd just buy a new one.
In Fusion360 it comes down to
Taking the measurements
Drawing a box in said measurements
clicking extrue to make give it that juicy thickness that you need
and then round the corners, really.
The hinge might as well be the hardest part but that's just a √ in the end
Cover the batteries and internal pieces with plastic wrap. Tape the edges down to keep it in place. Buy a tube of 2 part epoxy clay. Mix, mash, kind of get it about the right shape but just a little bigger. Wait for epoxy to cure. Grab some files and rasps and sandpaper. Shape it until you're happy. Paint to match.
Type what it is and the model number with "battery door stl" after it and you've got a decent chance someone else has already done all the modelling and popped it up somewhere online.
first get the meassurements right for the size itself make a simple box in tinkercad print it out make sure it fits then you can proceed to the curve down which is a little more tricky but should be possible after a few testprints and lastly the latch, it should be quite simple to recreate
Everyone has good advice, but I don't see software mentioned. Tikercad is good for beginners if you want results without going down a Blender or Fusion 360 rabbit hole
From my personal experience as a newbie: Step 1: Use a caliper to take measurements, think in 3d, lots of measurements Step 2: Watch lots of YouTube videos on modeling for days Step 3: After getting overwhelmed use duct tape
You forgot step 0.5 - search online for one that somebody else made haha
Always always start there. Even if you want to model it on your own it's a good base reference and you can work on making improvements.
I spent about 10 hours making a Roku 3 battery cover. Absolute junk. Had a brain fart and looked online. Had one printed off in an hour that was nearly indistinguishable from the original. Man, some people are talented!
Right? I got pretty good at it but some of these shapes/tapers are hard to nail and some people know all the tricks. I'm glad they like to share.
Care to share any tips you’ve learned for matching contours ? I’ve been trying to print a spoiler for my car for a while now that fits well
Small car, or large printer?
Large car with small spoiler?
Small car with huge spoiler is the only way. If the car is big just make bigger spoiler like the cool guys.
Thangs is better because it searches all of the model websites
This is ALWAYS step 1!
It's a common device, someone probably already did the work already. Always look up the device, then previous generations and remodel them, then similar covers but not the same and change it to fit. Then follow the previous steps listed in this post.
That's how I replaced my Gameboy Color battery cover
Measuring those bends is a pain as it has to fit perfectly. I prefer to model replacements only for flat things
Print a set of radius gauges first 🙂
Then verify that they printed accurately.
With your set of professional radius gages
No you print a second set of gages on detail mode... doh..
As long as you print it from the same printer, it doesn’t matter if it’s wrong, as long as it’s consistently wrong with your tools!
Could also print out a rig that allows you to take perfectly oriented profile pictures. Add a reference to the pictures and you’ll get pretty close to actual dimensions. In fusion 360 you can import the profile pics and scale it with the reference. Use poly-line or curve and you can now sketch all the lines. If you extrude those profiles and merge all the shapes it should give you the part you can now export as an stl. Or just freeball the profile pics. I do that for a lot of “quick functional prints”. So long as the ratio of sides remain the same you can scale it close enough to meet the tolerances you are looking for
If it's not elliptical you can just measure the height difference with a caliper and make a rounded 90 degrees corner. Hard to explain, but that worked for me
Honestly, from the picture, the radius of the curve looks pretty close to that of the curve of the AA batteries. With a few iterations they could probably get pretty close by using the battery as a model for that curve. Figuring that out should be the hardest part, after that it’s just a matter of measuring the flats.
You could model just the flat bit and tape the gaps? If it won’t fit perfect anyway it saves the effort of modelling a curve
Hmm, now as you say it, maybe also a flat bendy thing would be possible that is just taped on afterwards to make it look and feel flush
[удалено]
Just like we used to do in the 90s, especially when the cover was lost on road trips
Gotta cut some cardboard first to put pressure on the batteries and then add the duct tape.
Redneck engineer spotted! 😎
Everyone knows this needs cardboard to fit the gap and then tape. :)
Good ol duct tape. Lots of my radios and things had duct tape as the battery covers. 🤣 I even had it on my GBA.
yep...tried and true.
Epoxy 😂
https://panasonic.encompass.com/item/11822392/Panasonic/RKKW0003-H3/
People need to ask themselves more often how much their time is worth lol
You're not wrong but it's kind of fun to design a replacement and see it work.
This is Panasonic industrial database for all of their CAD models https://industrial.panasonic.com/ww
perfect! Buy this, create a silicone mold, then pour resin into the mold to create a second part. Then return the part, or buy another with a missing battery door. Perfect
No you buy this and a high resolution scanner....
Oh perfect that way OP will be able to measure for his model.
WTF, cloudflare blocked me from accessing the page?
They probably thought it was an attack because of the sudden influx of views.
only $8
This is the way
Make sure and get that optional protection plan for that $8 plastic cover too
You never know
Just get better at modelling… easy as that. Or go on fiver and try to find someone who does it for a fee. But, words of wisdom: in these type of replacements, very rarely the first iteration fits.
Yes, it's like you have the most perfect part and then you print it out and wonder where you went wrong😂 But just keep at it, dimension tweaking is a valuable skill
You'll always wish you did test prints of individual sections to see if they fit but you never actually will
Somehow the first print came out super well. Just adding a latch now
Modeling this cover is not too difficult. Draw a crossection of the cover. Extrude it to the right width. Add the interfaces. Aand... it's done. Probably you only need the extrude feature 😇
The latch part would be a little trickier.
You mean the √?
That's a brilliant way to put it.
Okay cool! It’s kinda hard to see in the picture but it does curve down https://preview.redd.it/a3puu07yohkc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=5d8f3fe050896dec17682e5e7dc7b7bd69c13415
Aproxímate that L shape and extrude it to width. Print a radius gauge to figure out the right curve.
Gotcha
Also print a thin (like 3-5mm) strip first, see how it fits. Adjust as needed, add the latch parts to hold it in place, print those on another thin strip. If it works well, print the whole thing. That's the beauty of practical prints
This is a great approach when you aren’t sure of your modeling skills yet. And when you are sure of them.
Yup, always better to print just a part of it to see if it fits so you don’t end up waiting for hours for your print to finish just to realize it doesn’t.
Modeling stuff out is kind of like a puzzle. There are many, many ways to achieve the same result. You’ll get better at figuring out the best ways to do it as you practice more. I find it kind of addictive.
Do you have a good model recommendation for radius gauge? Seems like something I could make use of.
I use this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1921128 I never need internal radii, so it’s been fine so far. I’d really like to print this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:149026 but I already have the one above, and filament is exorbitantly priced where I live so I can’t justify a new print for something I already have.
Of you haven’t anything to messure the easiest way is just to make test prints. Like radius x with angle y, make it a 1mm stripe, 1mm high and print it. The longest part of these print is the 6-7min of preprint routine of the bambu itself. (Still wonder why Bambu hadn’t done anything to optimize this…)
Just like teaching someone to ride a bike. Just get up and do it lol :D
Learning starts with showing the pattern of how to do the work and supporting the Scolar with energy he can do it 😎
I haven't tried this yet, but is it possible to just do a LIDAR scan with phones/tablets that have that, to get a 3d model of what you have, then make a model that fills the space needed, in a shape that matches the model you scanned? Or is that not accurate enough yet? I also suppose you could use a photo in modeling software then trace the curve, but getting everything in the photo to be perfect flat angles is probably not the easiest. This seems on the simpler side of things, but I suppose I'm also wondering for more complicated, organic designs where random complicated shapes need to fit into a gap
Both work but have their pros and cons. I usually use photos from 3 side, i dont have a scanner. Make an image from far away and zoom in as much as possible to remove parallax. And measure the part / gap. Then paste the images on the 3 planes in your cad software and scale them according to the measurements. Google this: [canvas modelling](https://www.google.com/search?q=fusion+360+cad+model+feom+canvas&client=ms-android-samsung-ss&sca_esv=df95c88c09499125&sxsrf=ACQVn0_KnbOVAQNtWlqvQQU8fNYDPPyupQ%3A1708772866046&ei=As7ZZd-oAsv87_UPqoe_aA&oq=fusion+360+cad+model+feom+canvas&gs_lp=EhNtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1zZXJwIiBmdXNpb24gMzYwIGNhZCBtb2RlbCBmZW9tIGNhbnZhczIJECEYChigARgKSJhVUIATWJxLcAB4ApABAJgB0QGgAfMWqgEGOS4xNS4xuAEDyAEA-AEBmAIRoALREMICBBAAGEfCAggQABiABBiiBMICCBAAGIAEGMsBwgIEECMYJ8ICBRAhGKABwgIGEAAYFhgewgIEECEYFcICBRAhGJ8FwgIHECEYChigAZgDAIgGAZAGCJIHBDQuMTM&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp)
Incase you didn’t know most modern phones ( especially iPhones ) have Lidar scanners built in
Call me old fashioned 😅 just have a cheap <300 euro phone...
My super lazy way of doing stuff like this is to find existing models that have the components I want, then just cutting and slamming them together in TinkerCAD and resize as needed. So, like, for this, I'd probably search "battery door stl" and find one that looks like it has the same kind of latch thing, and another that looks like it has the right curvature/ general shape, and then do a little lazy editing. But this is because I'm garbage at CAD programs and have no patience
I don't know the lengths, so I had to guess. But that took 2 minutes. Would need to add a closing mechanism (if you want it perfectly). https://preview.redd.it/wdyluscm8ikc1.png?width=758&format=png&auto=webp&s=230228668e95b175e11147b65b0ed0cd69e77e05
You can send me the meassurements, then I create it and send you the fusion360 file, then you can just adjust it if necessary, if you want 😊
Hey heres the measurements 1 1/2cm by 4 1/4cm depth of 0 1/4cm. The tab is 0 3/4cm by 0 3/4cm. Dont own digital callipers https://preview.redd.it/4ugz5l4dvlkc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=b149f50b2935bb06735f59cc171e5d4537cba054 Pt1
I'll try my best tomorrow, need some sleep for that first. I'm sorry, but I can't figure out your 1 1/2cm (and so on) data. What do you mean by that? I only understand metric system. 1 1/2cm = 15mm, but that don't seems to make sense. I'll also need the angle of the radius.
https://preview.redd.it/cvw3q5ifvlkc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=74956a05f7e86f0977006df189fb08933e066719
Nice job man was gonna offer help myself, but glad others are willing too!
That's so dope!
A decent start, but lots of features missing, not just the closing mechanism.
Please specify " a lot ". Thats a 2 minute draw, with 15min more could be much done. I don't know what you see, but I don't see much missing.
I didn't say "a lot", if you're going to paraphrase don't use quotation marks. But it's a non-specific term It's hard to say from just the pictures, but the snap feature for closure, the parts which engage at the bottom need work, looks like there a recessed groove around the perimeter, many of these have features which mate with the curvature of the battery to hold them in place better. Lots of features.
Are you really nitpicking that "lots" is a different thing then "a lot"? Are you really that pendantic that a phrase that carries the exact same meaning is spelled minutely differently?
Just your use of quotation marks
Different person
By the time you tipp in "battery door stl" in the internet, 50% of this cover would be allready created in F360...😉
DANG. I'd better learn CAD for real then. it's that easy?! It seems so intimidating! I do OK with basic shapes (cube, sphere, cylinder, basically anything drag and droppable that i can combine with other basic shapes) but anything that's like, "this is flat but has a slight curve" confuses me to death.
They're exaggerating, but 90% of the work is in the measuring anyways... So you'd already be doing most of it with your way too. Although half the time I find someone already made the exact part I needed, so it's still well worth searching first.
>it's that easy?! Depends on the program. Some have a frustrating learning curve. Start by sketching (pen and paper) it will help a lot. In my opinion, getting on to "how things should be drawn and by what order operations should be made" is the most difficult part.
This is fascinating. See, I'd never recommend anyone sketching first - I suck at sketching (or rather, I haven't done it a lot, so it takes too long if I have to make anything useful). Instead, CAD often IS my preferred method of sketching (so I will build CAD models of projects, even when their production doesn't involve machining). CAD models let me see exactly how things fit together, before I start cutting or welding shit together. I love how differently people approach making stuff!
They don't have to be "textbook examples of what a sketch should be" but they help a lot. It's mostly for "organizing ideas" and having a visual reference. It's more intuitive doing a visual reference on paper (it can be a lousy one).
In this case, you would use swap instead of extrusion. You draw a line with the radius where the curve is, then draw the length and thickness of the "door", then you can swap this profile along the curve you draw. Add some close mechanism to it, done. Need to take maybe about 10 meassurements, its designed in less than 5min when you have the meassurements done. For beginer, maybe takes 20min.
I'd create a model by photogrammetry, polycam, it's a web based photogrammetry, and convert it into an STL using Fusion 360 then design around it.
Ok cool! Thank you very much
You're welcome good luck with it
Quick question. How can i make the print the right scale?
When you take the pictures for the photogrammetry include a ruler in the frame so you can scale it accurately in Fusion 360. You could try that
Gotcha thanks
No problem, you're welcome.
Can that handle the hatch properly or do you have to fix that part in fusion?
It looks very simple, im sure i can make it
The output of the photogrammetry (and Lidar) apps will rarely make for a good print without editing the resulting mesh. Personally I find mesh editing way harder than modelling. My tip: try Shapr3D https://www.shapr3d.com
Duct tape. If you can’t fix it with that, no amount of CAD will help you. Check out functional print Fridays on YouTube. He has great videos on creating missing/broken/unavailable parts for stuff.
I would search Thingiverse.com someone probably already made one that will work
if you haven't done so already you might try a few google searches for "whatever\_model\_number\_device\_name 3d printable". Maybe include the word "parts" or "stl" or the like. Could be someone has already modeled it and has it available on thingiverse or the like.
If you want to make something to fit it to learn how to model things, the biggest tip i can give you is *just make something*. Take some pictures, make a few measurements. You can import a photo of the thing into most modelling software and then draw on it to get an idea for the shape. Draw something close, and then just 3d print it and you will see where you are going wrong. It really is the best way to teach yourself. If you just want something to hold the batteries in, buy a replacement or use tape.
To add to what daekle said, if you have a (paper) printer with a scanner, scan the part with a ruler next to it. Import the image into your modeling software and draw a line that is a few cm long. Then resize the picture until the ruler matches the line exactly. If you want more accuracy draw another line that is a few mm and make sure that matches the mm lines on your ruler. You now have a template to draw your part sketch on.
Buy a cheap set of calipers. Measure and draw it up in Fusion 360. Test print and check if it fits. Adjust your model and print again until you get it right. I do this all the time for stuff like this. No one is born with CAD skills. Watch some YouTube tutorials on Fusion and practice on projects like this. Sometimes it takes me 3-4 test prints to get something like this to fit right and I have been doing CAD design for 25 yrs. It’s fun stuff. You learn a lot just from this one project.
UPDATE: just printed out a test, fits good just need to fix the corner https://preview.redd.it/ubgehg5comkc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=8b603d3a9aa7f7e1d2e676ab22e49f2f39aa35a8
(☞ﾟヮﾟ)☞ Well done! ☜(ﾟヮﾟ☜) I came here because I'm new to 3D printing and I want to start creating my own models. Which program did you use for modeling this part?
Autodesk fusion
Grab a caliper. measure dimensions. create model. A lot of modeling programs can take dimension constraints. For example, FreeCAD. Record measurements -> Put into sketch -> Pad Sketch -> Shape 1 Record measurements -> Put into sketch -> Pad Sketch -> Shape 2 Do some boolean (additive and subtractive) of Shape 1 and 2. https://preview.redd.it/fjm7ulfg2ikc1.png?width=450&format=png&auto=webp&s=83627433b9fb97c7fefe17b8d91ed308146912b8 The hard part is the boolean. You need to make the shape of the negative space then subtract. How I will do this battery cover is that I'll measure the sideways shape, then pad it to the correct length, then subtract the excess to make the "Open" tab.
No front, but that sounds and looks way too complicate for such a basic thing. I don't see the necessary of a boolean operation here... And why not jus draw it with the right lengs from begining?
https://preview.redd.it/yskg24qobikc1.png?width=1562&format=png&auto=webp&s=8feab8b808210b30047f1dc6cf63d99a7a5e2442 >And why not jus draw it with the right lengs from begining? Will take 2 sketches either way. Here's a faster one with just Boolean or Pad or Subtract. There's a lot of ways to do this.
Sure there are a lot of ways. I know we both can make it, but I think it's easier for the post creator without boolean to learn it. Just my opinion.
Calipers and a radius gauge
I see people have already suggested ducktape. You could however also try ramen. Take two packs, crush them up. mix with glue and shape to perfection with sandpaper. (Or a rock, if you have a really low budget.)
Do you got callipers? 1. Measure deep of lid by measuring the grove to back. 2. Measure the length of the slot 3. Put a ruler behind it and Measure the width of the slot to the ruler (ignore the curvature for now. ) 4. Measure the deep inside the slith ignoring the curvature 5. Model A “L” shape by creating two cubes that matches. X/Y/ deep And X/Z/deep Then put then together and use the union of the modell. At this stage i Would print it draft level to see I didn’t make a mistake. Then round the corner And also create the locking mechanism same way as 1-5… and add that to the model. By now I would print it normal 0.2 to do a test fit. If something is wrong I would modify and re print.
Duct tape
Buy a $1300 iPhone with a Lidar 3D scanner. Scan the radio battery compartment and import it into Fusion 360 as a reference. Draw the rest of the fucking owl.
Wow just woke up and thankyou everyone for all your comments
Battery covers kinda suck to make because the little teeth, and the spring to hold it in place, are very easy to break. Someone LMK if you've made this work.
If you really want to Model it because you want to and not have to, watch some tutorials and lots of try/error is gonna need. If you just want to cover it up, tape it
This would be pretty easy to model I think. I’d first print a chamfer gauge to make the cover match the radio. Then use calipers to measure thickness it needs to be and pop the clip right in the middle. I personally use shapr3d.
After 4 years I'm still using tinkercad, mostly because real modeling software is overwhelming for me. I usually start with a basic shape, then start carving from it like a stone and chisel. I would make the shape with a rectangle and a corner round, then a "hole" on the back side with the same shape. Then add some of the details once I have the basic shape. Oh yeah, when you go to slice it make sure you orient properly. Tabs and whatnot need to be perpendicular to layer lines so they don't snap off
take a top down photo. measure the overall dimensions from the top do the same from the side bring these two photos into cad and scale it with your dimensions sketch the cover you think will work print it and adjust design as necessary by the 3rd-5th iteration, you'll have a pretty good fitting design
If you want I can design it for you and send it if you dm me the dimensions
Obviously, not for free, right?
No I would, I have nothing better to do
I take my snarkiness back, you are a gentleman
Thx mate
Step 1: get better at modeling Step 2: Step 3 profit!
I believe they have some additional detailed guides over at r/restofthefuckingowl
Learn how to model. I think that having a practical need (in this case "need" might be an overstatement) is the best motivation to learn how to do something.
Alr. I was just wondering if there was a simpler way too do it. Ill definitely try to model the cover
Print off a radius gauge for the filets, easy to find on thingy verse both in metric and imperial super handy i keep one at my desk. And just be mindful of tolerances things tend to shrink it may take some oversizing and post-processing for a tight fit.
It may seem a bit backwards, but start by trying to model the device itself instead of the battery cover. Just do your best to match the dimensions and the weight of the fillet curve. Once you have a rough rectangle the same shape as the device, hollow it out and start measuring the shape of the cover cutout and go from there. GL
Fusion 360 and draw the side profile whit the right radius and thickness and extrude and then create the latches using the same principle basically
Duct tape and cardboard. Or just spend the time needed in tinkercad.
If cad looks too hard you can try making a super super super barebones thing using tinkercad. Thats what I've been doing because im hopeless at cad
buy a $20 digital caliper on amazon, or harbor freight. Start measuring. Get good at modeling. It takes a while. This might be a perfect project to learn how to model. You're going to print like 20 prototypes, so keep your printer on its draft settings when prototyping. Start by printing a flat rectangle piece that fits between the main opening, then slowly start building the walls that cover the bottom part, when you know it fits find that clip part and try printing it at various thicknesses to make sure it won't break after 2 opens. Good luck!
I'm with you, but printing a flat rectancle that fit's is not what I recommend to do. Just needs filament for nothing. If you meassure for example 100mm, just model 99.8 (0.1 tolerance on each side). When you model 99.8 and the print is 100.2, you're off at .4 mm by your printer, not in CAD. It's time to adjust the printer then (shrinking rate etc). This model shoud be modeling with maybe 3-4hours of practicing (when never CAD designed before) and 1-3 prints. Not more. After perfectly calibrate my K1 Max, I can model 100mm and the final print is 100mm too.
This is actually difficult to do. Easy to model the shape, but difficult to get the many dimentions accuratly. And at lease 5 prints to refine the model, try dimentions and slicer settings.
This thing is small enough that five iterations would take no time at all, even on a slower, pre-2022 printer.
[spend $15 and save yourself the headache ](https://www.ebay.com/itm/394598285065?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=plmHsUJNTuy&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Vo755BBURuy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=SMS)
I would first just ignore it.... If I can't I would try if I am lucky to find it. If not I would measure and draw it and it would need me a 5 prints till it really fits
Make a J shape, Extrude it, Add a [ shape to the end where the lid would clamp down and a little ^ on each of the spots where the hinge would be
That’s going to be super tough.
You really dont dude. Like honestly
This is where a 3d pen is useful.
If you give nesurments I will do it for you and show you how
1 1/2cm by 4 1/4cm depth of 0 1/4cm. The tab is 0 3/4cm by 0 3/4cm. Not the best at measuring but it’s around this
you probably need to measure it with calipers but any ruler is fine, I suggest you to put ruler on and do few pics with ruler on, possibly from top and side angle, then i can figure out dimensions :D
for modeling this, you can download freecad or fusion360 for personal use, or similar program..
Measure everything, make a model based on this measurement in whatever cad software you prefer, print, test, adjust for errors, print and test again. Repeat the las few steps till you have a satisfying result.
Take a photo of it with a ruler or something to scale. Bring it into CAD sofware. Trace the shape u want and start from there
Start watching learn fusion 360 in 30 days on YouTube. That’s what I did and I pretty much know the basics now and can model simple things. Oh and get yourself a pair of calipers if you don’t have them already
If you have an iPhone you can 3d scan that object and model the cover around it, it's pretty neat
You have another way to fix your problem, you can replace the battery system, just match the input voltage, you could also add a power unit to recharge the battery
I started by doing things that I got the original one to mesure first. It will easy do that way, without a lot off details. Get some basics of drawing first.
Watch YouTube videos and learn, is fun knowing that you can model anything that you need, that happens to me almost.
Save time and energy. Duct tape.
Use poly cam, make a account and use the free scans that they allow, take it into blender and reverse engineer it
Do you own calipers?
Digital calipers are your friend
Option 1: get good, option 2: a rectangle of correct size for the back only with no tabs or bottom lip and some tape to hold it on
Plasticard and a Hairdryer.
Just use duct tape like we have for years…
Did this with a 3D pen. Edit: got it wrong like 10 times and it broke after a month but probably could have done it better if I tried
get güd
Cut a soda bottle, trace the part you need and use a heat gun (hair dryer can work if it’s good enough) to form it. I got real good at in my teen years when I would inevitably break stuff.
If you can, make a cutout with paper, scan it and make a basic shape that only covers it, then you cna put double tape or magnets to close it in place
If you can’t do the complex models, just make a base for the thing to sit on and make a panel that goes straight up for the object to sit against. May work. Better to make it so that the object is secure in the base.
Duct tape
Print out a rad tool first then measure the thickness of the lip and the plastic then just do rectrangles and fillet them
You'd have better luck replacing it from a garage sale for $1. (But these are great AM/FM radios for as cheap as they were new.)
If you can. Find a scan of the whole object or schematics. Or make a dummy mold out of playdough
Take paper and a pencil to make tracing. Measure the tracing on your paper to get the radius right for the 3d shape. Make your first print and iterate.
Measure the x,y,z dimensions of the part, then think about if you can model the part as a 2d shape with a length for the basic shape. This part is mostly a right angle two sides of a right triangle and can definitely be extruded a length. Then model a tab to try to fit in the hole. That might take a few shapes, but you have seen a hundred battery covers in your life you will figure it out
Duck tape
Draw a plan of it as viewed from the side in free cad and then pad it.it won't be perfect but then you can tape the sides on.
First I search for a similar model online. Then I import it into Blender. I have a window with ChatGPT open for me to ask questions on how to use Blender. I learn as I go, stretching and compressing the model until it meets the requirements that I need.
learn to model I'd find [photos](https://encompass-11307.kxcdn.com/imageDisplay?id=11822392&mfgCode=MSC&size=s) of the [part](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71OPB5JOkoL._AC_SL1500_.jpg) online then trace a simple outline of the profile of the door then extrude it to the correct length. once that fit snugly, I'd print out the lock tab using the same technique and lastly the door arms. But then again, it's a $7 replacement part. So I'd just buy a new one.
Duct tape, cardboard, and velcro worked for me in the past.
In Fusion360 it comes down to Taking the measurements Drawing a box in said measurements clicking extrue to make give it that juicy thickness that you need and then round the corners, really. The hinge might as well be the hardest part but that's just a √ in the end
Cover the batteries and internal pieces with plastic wrap. Tape the edges down to keep it in place. Buy a tube of 2 part epoxy clay. Mix, mash, kind of get it about the right shape but just a little bigger. Wait for epoxy to cure. Grab some files and rasps and sandpaper. Shape it until you're happy. Paint to match.
Use paper / cardboard as template. Copy that into cad. Don't try without template.
The hardest part would be the snap
Sketch it out with measurements.
Type what it is and the model number with "battery door stl" after it and you've got a decent chance someone else has already done all the modelling and popped it up somewhere online.
Go to your nearest Radio Shack.
first get the meassurements right for the size itself make a simple box in tinkercad print it out make sure it fits then you can proceed to the curve down which is a little more tricky but should be possible after a few testprints and lastly the latch, it should be quite simple to recreate
Everyone has good advice, but I don't see software mentioned. Tikercad is good for beginners if you want results without going down a Blender or Fusion 360 rabbit hole
I like to use the openSCAD programming language.
I’m a noob at CAD. Print a corner measure. Get the calipers out. Allow for plastic expansion. Consider duct tape.
Calipers and radius gauge. Measure everything out and model on tinkercad, it's very intuitive