It may be level, but the nozzle is def too far from bed. The first layer should squish out like twice as wide as the layer height, and all those gaps between lines will close and make a flat “clean bottom” 😅
The fact that you can see broken extrusions on the edges from this are abundant proof that the z offset is way off. First layer should functionally become a sheet of plastic, not an orderly birds nest
The inner lines of the walls probably just stuck to the broken likes from the last pass and made it still work. Have had some prints work pretty much without the whole first layer.
Z offset is the issue. You likely have a tune printer setting. In there tune it while printing a bed level print. It will help you accurate dial in the z and the bed level at the same time. I only have to relabel when I change nozzles, upgrade parts, or change firmware.
Depends on your printer. Paper or metal feeler gauges are used. Newer printers you don't need the paper but you can still change the z-offset while printing.
Honestly, that number is somewhat meaningless,and you shouldn't worry about whatever it says being "too low" mine is at something like - 2.9.
The only issue I can see is when it comes to the last few mm at the very top of a print that takes up the entire build volume, but those aren't going to be common.
Yep you want your nozzle closer to the bed, lower that bad boy a tad and test, print with a large brim on a test print and watch it and adjust as needed, good luck
The number is inconsequential.
It can be either negative or positive, but whatever number yours is @, it's too high. If you are able to adjust it whilst printing, then do so.
Adjust while printing @ 20-50% normal speed and make medium adjustments....perhaps 0.025mm per adjustment, until you are closing the gap betwixt the lines.
Remember to make adjustments and be verified that the hotend has moved down and let it print a line or two before you make the next adjustment.
NOOOOOO ULTRA SOFT LEAVES RESIDUAL TOILET PAPER FLAKES ON YOUR BUTTHOLE. Ultra Strong is what you need for the cleanest hole, without residual paper flakes, and you’ll use less sheets because you can scrub harder. 🫡
Although, the best solution would be to just get a bidet.
It happened once when we had guests over. Absolutely an accident and absolutely hilarious to come out to your mother in law and a polite couple cracking up over your high pitched squeal of surprise. Still wouldn’t trade it for any alternative. I’ve never been so clean in my life as after buying a bidet.
Ooof yeah been there. Thankfully the shitheads who flipped this place used an as-of-yet undiscovered hole in the hvac system to route air in the upstairs and some of the heat leaks into the utility column where the water goes. I get a warm blast for 5 seconds then it’s Northern New York iced b hole.
I’ve finally started checking the pressure knob before pressing the button. I’m just trying to have a clean butt not get the backs of my teeth power washed.
My Toto Washlet has it's own pump so the water pressure and temperature and exactly where it sprays is always whatever I set it to no matter what the rest of the house is doing. It's definitely the best way to a cleaner bottom. Luv it.
The nozzle is too far from the bed. Tune the Zoffset.
The lines should touch and be squished just enough to look solid.
The adhesion will be better as well.
You know what they say "Nothing sticks better than 💩 on a woolen blanket"
!firstlayer
You seem to know what you're talking about. I've been struggling with this a bit, I thought of bed leveling as literally throwing a level on the bed. After reading some other comments today I'm wondering if I actually just need to ensure it's fairly level, but more importantly the z offset is consistent across?
Basically level to the extruder head not necessarily level to the ground. Is that correct?
Your bed doesn't need to be level. It needs to be 'tram'.
Loads of people make this mistake, it's the difference between the bed being level against gravity and the bed being level with the motion of the print head. There are good instructions how to do this on all3dp [here](https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printer-bed-leveling-step-by-step-tutorial/)
Yip. The concepts are:
- Tramming as mentioned. All 3 axis must be level/parallel and square to each other. The level term is misleading.
No use being parallel but not square. That would be trapezium shaped.
- Flatness. The waviness of the bed. The bed mesh probing will compensate for slight undulations caused by heat warping. It will also compensate for not being parallel, but you should tune that instead.
The best way grasp it is to imagine the components misaligned exaggerated. Then imagine what will happen when they move relative to each other
i.e with the bed mounted to the Y rail at 45° relative to the X rail.
(You can put a wedge shaped object on the bed to visualize.)
The nozzle will crash into the right side of the bed as it moves left to right.
However! , as the bed moves back to front the nozzle will not crash.
Then imagine the bed (or the wedge) tilted 45° forward. Moving the nozzle left right won't crash it.
Here's where it's becomes freaky.
Imagine the bed is nicely parallel to X , but the whole Y rail is tilted forward (not trammed), and so the bed tilted as well.
Moving the bed won't crash the nozzle!! 🤔
Trust me, visualize it with 2 hands.
And, the bed mesh probing won't pick it up.....
The only way you will notice is If you get trapezium shaped prints.
That's why tramming is the first thing you must to.
It takes time, so that's why they don't do it in the factory.
Hey there OP, you seem to be having some problems with your first layer. This is a very common issue on modern printers and generally a place where experience and knowlege is important. Your first layer is crucial for a good print and you should definitely take your time and learn how to properly adjust your first layer before starting a print since that could easily mess up your prints or even worse, damage your Printer's Hardware. For information on how to level the Bed properly head over to our Wiki Section [Calibration](https://www.reddit.com/r/3DPrinting/wiki/troubleshootingandcalibration/#wiki_solutions_for_specific_issues)
You can view the full list of commands [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/wiki/commands/)
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/3Dprinting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
My print life changed, once i stopped using the paper test as the only reference. I use the paper to have a ball park idea, then print a square thats .02mm height by 30mmx30mm or whatever you want. I adjust the z offset until it gives a perfect result of a smooth finish. Theirs plenty of photo of the good the bad and ugly result to have a idea.
THIS\^!
I just tried this and i am going to call it the u/Cyborg_rat !firstlayer! This should be topmost on the side bar. I tried it with 2mm overall height and screwing up the bed level and making a couple of tests on the 3rd one it was PERFECT. Re-muddled up the bed again with a 1.2mm height and found the 'zheight' after the 2nd test!!! TY so much
They aren't that uncommon in homes these days. You can buy them in pretty much any store that also sells plumbing stuff. I've had one in each bathroom since moving into my newest home, and even my old apartment had one.
Both off my bathrooms have the toilet against an outside facing wall. Living in the Midwest means during the winter the cold water can be near freezing which is not what you want hitting you without warning! I use the warm water and let it go for 5-10 seconds before adjusting it to actually hit me so I know I won't be freezing myself half to death.
My mom is European and we’re now living in the states, so we have always had these bidet things that attach to the the side of the toilet, and I don’t know what I would do without them…
I am not referring to the accessory you add on the existing toilet. I want the seperate bidet that requires its own space and installation in the bathroom. That requires remodeling. The accessory one will only connect to cold wwter from the toilet pipe, and in Canada that cold water is very very cold and wouldnt wish anyone to wash their private parts with it.
If you have a proper diet and keep yourself clean you don't need any of that (and they can actually make things more messy!). My spouse and I take turns bottoming and never had any issue with a normal diet.
Are you using a raft? If so, printing directly on to your build surface will get you a much better bottom surface, and then changing out your build surface will change your bottom finish. If you’re using a raft to compensate for an unleveled bed, welp, gotta level your bed. Dialing in your Z-offset is going to be the next step and is critical to get right. If you aren’t using a raft, then your Z-offset is just too high. Run some z-offset test prints and do live adjust/live babystepping if your printer’s firmware supports it. If not, you’ll have to run a print, adjust, rerun the print. Repeat until it’s right.
Print closer to bed, aka. calibrate your Z distance. You're printing first layer too high, so it doesn't squish enough. I'm surprised it stuck on bed they whole print being that high.
I've seen a few people make the suggestion but I'll add some feedback here too. Your z-offset is too far, you need to get your print starting closer to the bed. The cross section of your lines should be pill shaped, not round. And you want a *slight* overlap between lines. your bed looks level, you're just offset by a fraction of a mm.
Calibrate your print head a bit lower. That will compress that first layer making it smoother. There is usually a wide latitude for how low a printer will print. I usually like to eyeball it. So I will start a print and get a powerful flashlight in there to see the first layer. I raise the bed until I like how the bead looks. Then I let the machine calibrate the rest from that point.
Z-offset as everyone says. Try these.
Do this first.
https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/first_layer_squish.html
Then this.
https://www.logicalplanet.com/2024/01/01/first-layer-squish-tool/
Like others are saying, your z offset is likely the culprit. However I’d also like to mention that you may incur issues related to over or under extrusion (looking at those walls I’d say you’ve got a problem with under extrusion as well).
If you’ve been leveling consistently and you’re confident in your methods, check that your e-stops(steps?) are calibrated correctly. I had a similar issues, much like what you’re describing and during my research and troubleshooting, I found that I was only pushing out about half of the filament that I’d expect, resulting in those messy bottoms and “thin” walls.
Once you check that your estops are correctly calibrated, you’ll also want to ensure that your line thickness is accurate by adjusting your flow rate. There’s several tutorials online, I’ve found Ricky Impey’s video tutorials very insightful and he walks you through this entire process. Feel free to dm me if you would like to discuss more.
Offset is definitely too high. However after that's fixed, your print bottom will be a mirror of whatever surface your build plate is. I use glass and the bottom of the print always comes off as smooth as it.
If you use autolevel, raise your z offset (actually lower, but the end goal is to get closer to the bed), if manually leveling use a thinner shim. PEI spring steel beds get me a perfectly smooth bottom, with layer lines barely visible, so if you are using another bed surface, maybe it's worth the $30 upgrade to go a magnetic bed surface, just make sure it can handle whatever temp you use on your bed as they are not all created equal.
If you have an auto level sensor and a recent marlin version, the tramming feature is great to set an initial level state and then use mesh leveling to fine tune, ideally you have very minimal offsets on your mesh. If you don't have an auto leveling sensor, adding one is typically about $25-35 and most controllers can handle it as its only one more io pin than a z sensor.
Dial in bed height more accurately; you're too high. If you're using the shim-under-the-tip trick at the corners, remember to measure the thickness of the shim material itself and account for that in the Z offset value.
The print head seems to be a bit far so that first layer isn't being printed properly. Most likely it's just dropping the extruded material onto the surface and not at all close. Lower the print head and keep track of your first layer. If that isn't good, restart
I used to get similar bottoms, and when I calibrated both my printing profile and printer correctly I wondered how did many prints even stuck to the bed to begin with. Anyway, being that you mentioned you already covered bed leveling (and it does seem to be the case since all lines look pretty much the same across the model's bottom), the next thing to tackle is Z offset and first layer height, which get set up in the printer and slicer respectively.
Your Z offset should be set such that the nozzle literally touches the bed when you tell the printer to home Z (and only Z). In Marlin, that's the 'G28 Z' command. And when I say it should be touching the bed, I mean exactly that: it must touch the bed but not slam against it, neither should the bed prevent filament from exiting the nozzle. Despite what many say about setting the Z offset using a paper or gauge, the firmware makes all its calculations based off of the Z offset the user sets, so calibrating it with something of any height literally throws off the firmware's calculations by that amount (i.e "a paper's or gauge's thickness" amount), hence, the bottom isn't perfect.
Another thing you can do and you'll get the perfect first layer is to set a 0.1mm height first (and only first) layer in your slicer. That way, the filament is laid down and not only squished by the nozzle, but re-melted on the next pass just enough to perfectly fuse with the next extruded line of the bottom, and since it's an extremely small amount of material, layer lines will fuse perfectly (yes, I use "perfect" too much because it's THAT good of a result) and leave you with a bottom that looks like it was from an injection molded part.
Of course, there's a catch: you must have set up a bed mesh to make the most out of those two aspects, that way the nozzle will follow your bed's topography and always stay at the same height no matter where it is within the bed's area. Also, you have to a b s o l u t e l y make sure your hotend assembly and extruder are in top tier working condition, since any under extrusion will hinder your results; e.g degraded PTFE tubing, too much retraction, or anything that compromises low volumetric flow to the nozzle.
Below is an image of a model I printed with an incorrectly set Z offset (about -1.8 on my Ender 3V2 Neo), 0.2mm first layer height, and that was already showing its first signs of under extrusion due to a degraded PTFE tubing in the heat brake section. The photo below that shows the results you should get if you succeed at everything mentioned above: you can make out the layer lines since, in the end, it's still a 3D print, but if you look at the light's reflection, you'll see it has absolutely no texture aside from the one the PEI bed imprinted, even if you zoom in. It was printed with a Z offset of -2.1 and a first layer height of 0.1mm, with a fresh PTFE section inserted on the hotend. Needles to say, not only does such a first layer looks... Immaculate (ha, almost used the same word once more), but the model's adhesion is literally the best you'll get from your print surface, and that just makes your machine more reliable.
https://preview.redd.it/uewogh1jn1tc1.jpeg?width=1564&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7937051979e187960d2b27d4c1abb444c0d97cea
I'm a massive fan of my travel bidet, yeah it's not as good as the properly built into the toilet ones but it's also 10x cheaper and I can take it with me
If you look at the layer lines, it looks like your slicer is actually connecting the piece across some of the smaller gaps (with intentional lines, not accidentally). I don't usually print to such tight tolerances, but I'd bet there's a setting in your slicer for that.
If there are gaps on the first layer, or it looks like it's coming up off the plate, adjust your z offset to print closer to the bed. It needs to squish more onto the plate. Then, if it continues to have the gaps on upper layers, it may be that you need to adjust the flow rate so as to print thicker/wider lines. It's under-extruding in that case. See teachingtech on YouTube or his website, or find other calibrations for that.
Your first layer should basically look like the surface on the print bed.
As said it's your Z-Offset or leveling. Z-Offset should probably be adjusted as it looks like things are level, it's just too high. Probably needs to be 0.1mm lower.
To not waste time, print a decent size one layer square.
From your replies I can see that you don’t actually how to level the bed. I’d visit YouTube and watch a few hours of videos and start absorbing as much knowledge as you can.
I had a similar issue when switching to Bambu Studio, essentially no bottom layer after tweaking some parameters away from the default settings. I resolved the problem by setting Top and Bottom Z Distance to 0.
https://preview.redd.it/0vfo16xo5wsc1.png?width=463&format=png&auto=webp&s=95fc36ffb2f9fa70f08088e8463d5714c1142b7d
Z offset is to high rn, use a piece of paper to do it, and find a good YouTube tutorial on how to fix that. If bed adhesion is an issue, raise temp, use glue stick/hairspray as well.
Adjust you extruder head layer height. If it looks like this in some places but not all, you could have a warped bed. As this looks pretty even, I would say to manually level your z axis. You can find 'calibration' files just about anywhere.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6173762
Here is a set from thingiverse.
Z offset is not the same as mesh leveling or auto leveling. Take time to manually calibrate your z offset with a piece of paper. Then autolevel and store meshes
You are printing the first layer too far from the bed. Z-offset too low or just poor leveling
I check leveling pretty frequently so I’ll try messing with the Z some more. Thanks!
It may be level, but the nozzle is def too far from bed. The first layer should squish out like twice as wide as the layer height, and all those gaps between lines will close and make a flat “clean bottom” 😅
The fact that you can see broken extrusions on the edges from this are abundant proof that the z offset is way off. First layer should functionally become a sheet of plastic, not an orderly birds nest
It's quite amazing that it still stuck to the bed!
The inner lines of the walls probably just stuck to the broken likes from the last pass and made it still work. Have had some prints work pretty much without the whole first layer.
Z offset is the issue. You likely have a tune printer setting. In there tune it while printing a bed level print. It will help you accurate dial in the z and the bed level at the same time. I only have to relabel when I change nozzles, upgrade parts, or change firmware.
Common misconception but level and z offset are not the same thing.
Make sure your machine is at printing temperature when setting offset. Be careful not to burn yourself! If you set it cold things change when hot.
z-offset
Whats your references for the bed layer height? Do you do manual or ABL?
I believe I usually run -1.46 as my height, but I can try to lower it more. I was worried I’d scrape my bed.
Sounds like you’re leveling it with a too thick piece of paper or you aren’t leveling it “tight” enough with the paper
Paper? Sorry, I’m rather new
Depends on your printer. Paper or metal feeler gauges are used. Newer printers you don't need the paper but you can still change the z-offset while printing.
How are you going about leveling the bed?
Use a receipt instead
I use 80 gsm A4 paper. Seems to do the trick.
Honestly, that number is somewhat meaningless,and you shouldn't worry about whatever it says being "too low" mine is at something like - 2.9. The only issue I can see is when it comes to the last few mm at the very top of a print that takes up the entire build volume, but those aren't going to be common.
Those numbers dont really mean anything.
Yep you want your nozzle closer to the bed, lower that bad boy a tad and test, print with a large brim on a test print and watch it and adjust as needed, good luck
The number is inconsequential. It can be either negative or positive, but whatever number yours is @, it's too high. If you are able to adjust it whilst printing, then do so. Adjust while printing @ 20-50% normal speed and make medium adjustments....perhaps 0.025mm per adjustment, until you are closing the gap betwixt the lines. Remember to make adjustments and be verified that the hotend has moved down and let it print a line or two before you make the next adjustment.
Z offset is too high not low
Z-offset is different from z-height or coordinate. Depends on the software which way it goes
https://preview.redd.it/t1pren0gbwsc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fde36bdc29a2f5f31649aeafd9fc8ae7f688a191 Def check your z offset.
you forgot the "stop printing immediately too low" setting where its so low it starts engraving the bed
That isn't a feature? All my beds have these engravings on them. 🤣
Literally the first feature I test out when buying a brand new printer and getting it all setup
CHARMIN ULTRA SOFT
And now I realize I need to double check my titles lmao
NOOOOOO ULTRA SOFT LEAVES RESIDUAL TOILET PAPER FLAKES ON YOUR BUTTHOLE. Ultra Strong is what you need for the cleanest hole, without residual paper flakes, and you’ll use less sheets because you can scrub harder. 🫡 Although, the best solution would be to just get a bidet.
If your partner turns off the sink while you’re using the bidet the change in pressure will clean you the fuck out. Or so I hear.
(I love your username) also i have a bidet and from experience its a free colon cleanse, especially when someone turns the shower off.
It happened once when we had guests over. Absolutely an accident and absolutely hilarious to come out to your mother in law and a polite couple cracking up over your high pitched squeal of surprise. Still wouldn’t trade it for any alternative. I’ve never been so clean in my life as after buying a bidet.
Makes you feel dirty for the rest of the day when you have to use a toilet without one unfortunately.
Our line goes directly from the toilet line so we get full power baby!!
But that’s half the fun! Shooting water out of your butt while never breaking eye contact with your spouse who’s trying to brush their teeth.
Unfortunately it’s only a cold line so it’s always a wild ride. Especially in the winter.
Ooof yeah been there. Thankfully the shitheads who flipped this place used an as-of-yet undiscovered hole in the hvac system to route air in the upstairs and some of the heat leaks into the utility column where the water goes. I get a warm blast for 5 seconds then it’s Northern New York iced b hole.
I’ve finally started checking the pressure knob before pressing the button. I’m just trying to have a clean butt not get the backs of my teeth power washed.
My Toto Washlet has it's own pump so the water pressure and temperature and exactly where it sprays is always whatever I set it to no matter what the rest of the house is doing. It's definitely the best way to a cleaner bottom. Luv it.
Came here to add bidet, saw it was already mentioned. Thank you for your detailed response!
Same… but added it anyways.
The simple fact that most us Americans dry wipe alone is pretty gross, dingleberries or otherwise.
Bidet. (mic drop)
You stepped in it 😬
The nozzle is too far from the bed. Tune the Zoffset. The lines should touch and be squished just enough to look solid. The adhesion will be better as well. You know what they say "Nothing sticks better than 💩 on a woolen blanket" !firstlayer
You seem to know what you're talking about. I've been struggling with this a bit, I thought of bed leveling as literally throwing a level on the bed. After reading some other comments today I'm wondering if I actually just need to ensure it's fairly level, but more importantly the z offset is consistent across? Basically level to the extruder head not necessarily level to the ground. Is that correct?
Your bed doesn't need to be level. It needs to be 'tram'. Loads of people make this mistake, it's the difference between the bed being level against gravity and the bed being level with the motion of the print head. There are good instructions how to do this on all3dp [here](https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printer-bed-leveling-step-by-step-tutorial/)
Not so much level, but square.
Start here: https://youtu.be/9kDK7czgMxc?si=1GO83rqnFZVjnIyX
Tramming is actually what you're doing. Each axis has to be square to the other.
Yip. The concepts are: - Tramming as mentioned. All 3 axis must be level/parallel and square to each other. The level term is misleading. No use being parallel but not square. That would be trapezium shaped. - Flatness. The waviness of the bed. The bed mesh probing will compensate for slight undulations caused by heat warping. It will also compensate for not being parallel, but you should tune that instead. The best way grasp it is to imagine the components misaligned exaggerated. Then imagine what will happen when they move relative to each other i.e with the bed mounted to the Y rail at 45° relative to the X rail. (You can put a wedge shaped object on the bed to visualize.) The nozzle will crash into the right side of the bed as it moves left to right. However! , as the bed moves back to front the nozzle will not crash. Then imagine the bed (or the wedge) tilted 45° forward. Moving the nozzle left right won't crash it. Here's where it's becomes freaky. Imagine the bed is nicely parallel to X , but the whole Y rail is tilted forward (not trammed), and so the bed tilted as well. Moving the bed won't crash the nozzle!! 🤔 Trust me, visualize it with 2 hands. And, the bed mesh probing won't pick it up..... The only way you will notice is If you get trapezium shaped prints. That's why tramming is the first thing you must to. It takes time, so that's why they don't do it in the factory.
Hey there OP, you seem to be having some problems with your first layer. This is a very common issue on modern printers and generally a place where experience and knowlege is important. Your first layer is crucial for a good print and you should definitely take your time and learn how to properly adjust your first layer before starting a print since that could easily mess up your prints or even worse, damage your Printer's Hardware. For information on how to level the Bed properly head over to our Wiki Section [Calibration](https://www.reddit.com/r/3DPrinting/wiki/troubleshootingandcalibration/#wiki_solutions_for_specific_issues) You can view the full list of commands [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/wiki/commands/) *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/3Dprinting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
automod you're drunk this is 4 comments deep in the thread
More like sat in it.
My print life changed, once i stopped using the paper test as the only reference. I use the paper to have a ball park idea, then print a square thats .02mm height by 30mmx30mm or whatever you want. I adjust the z offset until it gives a perfect result of a smooth finish. Theirs plenty of photo of the good the bad and ugly result to have a idea.
THIS\^! I just tried this and i am going to call it the u/Cyborg_rat !firstlayer! This should be topmost on the side bar. I tried it with 2mm overall height and screwing up the bed level and making a couple of tests on the 3rd one it was PERFECT. Re-muddled up the bed again with a 1.2mm height and found the 'zheight' after the 2nd test!!! TY so much
I was gonna say a bidet
Bidet is the way 💯
Bidet. Don’t like big TP tell you to buy ‘softer’ paper or wet wipes.
Bidet seat
Bidet is the way.
I came to say wet wipes!! 😂
Bidet in the summer, wipes in the winter
Baby wipes
Nominating for comment of the year.
Bidet crew checking in. >.<
Bidet
I would recommend a bidet.
I came here for this comment. 👍
Bidets usually work pretty good
\#bidetmasterrace
Damnit you beat me to it
I wish we had those in north america
They aren't that uncommon in homes these days. You can buy them in pretty much any store that also sells plumbing stuff. I've had one in each bathroom since moving into my newest home, and even my old apartment had one.
I ordered one from amazon, just uses the cold water outlet from the wall. Works pretty well
The hot isnt needed IMHO. I installed one that connects to the hot line as well and i honestly dont even use that function.
Both off my bathrooms have the toilet against an outside facing wall. Living in the Midwest means during the winter the cold water can be near freezing which is not what you want hitting you without warning! I use the warm water and let it go for 5-10 seconds before adjusting it to actually hit me so I know I won't be freezing myself half to death.
Same, I was worried the water would be too cold, but, it’s just fine
You can buy a cheap one for like 20 bucks and they take 4 minutes to install. There is no excuse for a home that doesn’t have a bidet
I am using one right now in North America
Just buy one, I did, and installed it. Best. Purchase...ever!
You can retrofit them. Amazon sells them. The complicated part is having an electrical outlet near your toilet, if you want one of the fancy ones.
Buy one on amazon for $40
I am literally on one in North america right as I type this. A stream of warm water is pummelibg my butthole and it is great.
My mom is European and we’re now living in the states, so we have always had these bidet things that attach to the the side of the toilet, and I don’t know what I would do without them…
Just... buy one?
I am not referring to the accessory you add on the existing toilet. I want the seperate bidet that requires its own space and installation in the bathroom. That requires remodeling. The accessory one will only connect to cold wwter from the toilet pipe, and in Canada that cold water is very very cold and wouldnt wish anyone to wash their private parts with it.
Z offset is equally important on the bidet.
I came here for the comments
Unfortunately I’m not good at reading before I post lmao
Same, but 18 or so comments in I'm a bit disappointed, I was expecting gay jokes...
Z offset
Wipe more than once after using the toilet
Most bottoms use a liquid diet, a douche, or some enema-like treatment I think?
If you have a proper diet and keep yourself clean you don't need any of that (and they can actually make things more messy!). My spouse and I take turns bottoming and never had any issue with a normal diet.
Super interesting, thanks for the reply! I learned something new today 😂
Damn you beat me to it lol
I had to scroll too far for this 🤣
I’ve fixed the issue!! Thanks so much for everyone’s help!!
Are you using rafts, cause if you are, dont
https://preview.redd.it/fd970hzf6ysc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4cc9995555579ef14dcdf89046d43a0c99af3e1a
# z offset
Check the Z-offset and be sure to level your bidet.
Are you using a raft? If so, printing directly on to your build surface will get you a much better bottom surface, and then changing out your build surface will change your bottom finish. If you’re using a raft to compensate for an unleveled bed, welp, gotta level your bed. Dialing in your Z-offset is going to be the next step and is critical to get right. If you aren’t using a raft, then your Z-offset is just too high. Run some z-offset test prints and do live adjust/live babystepping if your printer’s firmware supports it. If not, you’ll have to run a print, adjust, rerun the print. Repeat until it’s right.
Must go lower
Get the nozzle closer to the bed for the first layer. You want it to squish in place. That’s what gets you the smooth base for your prints.
Wet wipes
Bidet
A bidet
Try a bidet?
Bidet for sure
Top here. I am also interested in cleaner bottoms
Hello yes where do I apply?
There's an app for that. Printr? Swipe to the +X.
Your first layer is extremely far from the print plate, try bed leveling.
Bed level, then tune your first layer settings.
Phrasing
Wipe more or get a bidet
Print closer to bed, aka. calibrate your Z distance. You're printing first layer too high, so it doesn't squish enough. I'm surprised it stuck on bed they whole print being that high.
Calibrate your first layer!! That is to far off.
Your z offset is wack
I've seen a few people make the suggestion but I'll add some feedback here too. Your z-offset is too far, you need to get your print starting closer to the bed. The cross section of your lines should be pill shaped, not round. And you want a *slight* overlap between lines. your bed looks level, you're just offset by a fraction of a mm.
Calibrate your print head a bit lower. That will compress that first layer making it smoother. There is usually a wide latitude for how low a printer will print. I usually like to eyeball it. So I will start a print and get a powerful flashlight in there to see the first layer. I raise the bed until I like how the bead looks. Then I let the machine calibrate the rest from that point.
Just lower your z-offset bit by bit
Move your Z offset a little lower down. Use the paper trick to help you.
Z-offset as everyone says. Try these. Do this first. https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/first_layer_squish.html Then this. https://www.logicalplanet.com/2024/01/01/first-layer-squish-tool/
Like others are saying, your z offset is likely the culprit. However I’d also like to mention that you may incur issues related to over or under extrusion (looking at those walls I’d say you’ve got a problem with under extrusion as well). If you’ve been leveling consistently and you’re confident in your methods, check that your e-stops(steps?) are calibrated correctly. I had a similar issues, much like what you’re describing and during my research and troubleshooting, I found that I was only pushing out about half of the filament that I’d expect, resulting in those messy bottoms and “thin” walls. Once you check that your estops are correctly calibrated, you’ll also want to ensure that your line thickness is accurate by adjusting your flow rate. There’s several tutorials online, I’ve found Ricky Impey’s video tutorials very insightful and he walks you through this entire process. Feel free to dm me if you would like to discuss more.
Offset is definitely too high. However after that's fixed, your print bottom will be a mirror of whatever surface your build plate is. I use glass and the bottom of the print always comes off as smooth as it.
If you use autolevel, raise your z offset (actually lower, but the end goal is to get closer to the bed), if manually leveling use a thinner shim. PEI spring steel beds get me a perfectly smooth bottom, with layer lines barely visible, so if you are using another bed surface, maybe it's worth the $30 upgrade to go a magnetic bed surface, just make sure it can handle whatever temp you use on your bed as they are not all created equal. If you have an auto level sensor and a recent marlin version, the tramming feature is great to set an initial level state and then use mesh leveling to fine tune, ideally you have very minimal offsets on your mesh. If you don't have an auto leveling sensor, adding one is typically about $25-35 and most controllers can handle it as its only one more io pin than a z sensor.
Are you just doing the first layer by hand? Forget the jokes, the joke here is that your z offset is ridiculously high.
Less z offset
Raise the bed a bit, also stop printing on a raft if you are currently.
Dial in bed height more accurately; you're too high. If you're using the shim-under-the-tip trick at the corners, remember to measure the thickness of the shim material itself and account for that in the Z offset value.
Ah, a fellow articulated slug enjoyer I see
There’s some really cool textured beds you can get that put like a pattern on the bottom if ur into that
Calibrate your z offset
The print head seems to be a bit far so that first layer isn't being printed properly. Most likely it's just dropping the extruded material onto the surface and not at all close. Lower the print head and keep track of your first layer. If that isn't good, restart
You’re starting off too high… lower z height
A bidet. Your first layers need work too.
Use wet wipes 😂
Wipe twice.
I use a bidet.
This was obvious for more than 1k ppl on this reddit.
A bidet probably
Wet wipes
Better toilet paper.
Just wipe afterwards and make sure that you wash regularly (you've already gotten good answers so I'm just gonna be a silly willy)
Most people use Toilet paper
Maybe use a bidet?
r/bidets
Bidet.
A bidet helps
Glass/G10/PEX spring steel/other really smooth bed
Toto bidet. You won't regret it.
A bidet.
Wet wipes or a bidet
I’ve heard wet wipes work
Baby swipes help. 🤣
wipe
As a gay man I have answers. ROFL
A bidet is meant to leave you with a cleaner bottom.
Ask those bears.
Douche
Fuck ultrasofts, dude Wipes instead
Can we move the top comment down somehow since it has no useful knowledge and goes on FOREVER before any actual help is visible?
I saw the title and just knew OP was in trouble…
Eat salad and high fibre food 3 days before and make him douche thoroughly.
I'd use a bidet
I use a baby wipe after the T.P....
… a bidet.
I used to get similar bottoms, and when I calibrated both my printing profile and printer correctly I wondered how did many prints even stuck to the bed to begin with. Anyway, being that you mentioned you already covered bed leveling (and it does seem to be the case since all lines look pretty much the same across the model's bottom), the next thing to tackle is Z offset and first layer height, which get set up in the printer and slicer respectively. Your Z offset should be set such that the nozzle literally touches the bed when you tell the printer to home Z (and only Z). In Marlin, that's the 'G28 Z' command. And when I say it should be touching the bed, I mean exactly that: it must touch the bed but not slam against it, neither should the bed prevent filament from exiting the nozzle. Despite what many say about setting the Z offset using a paper or gauge, the firmware makes all its calculations based off of the Z offset the user sets, so calibrating it with something of any height literally throws off the firmware's calculations by that amount (i.e "a paper's or gauge's thickness" amount), hence, the bottom isn't perfect. Another thing you can do and you'll get the perfect first layer is to set a 0.1mm height first (and only first) layer in your slicer. That way, the filament is laid down and not only squished by the nozzle, but re-melted on the next pass just enough to perfectly fuse with the next extruded line of the bottom, and since it's an extremely small amount of material, layer lines will fuse perfectly (yes, I use "perfect" too much because it's THAT good of a result) and leave you with a bottom that looks like it was from an injection molded part. Of course, there's a catch: you must have set up a bed mesh to make the most out of those two aspects, that way the nozzle will follow your bed's topography and always stay at the same height no matter where it is within the bed's area. Also, you have to a b s o l u t e l y make sure your hotend assembly and extruder are in top tier working condition, since any under extrusion will hinder your results; e.g degraded PTFE tubing, too much retraction, or anything that compromises low volumetric flow to the nozzle. Below is an image of a model I printed with an incorrectly set Z offset (about -1.8 on my Ender 3V2 Neo), 0.2mm first layer height, and that was already showing its first signs of under extrusion due to a degraded PTFE tubing in the heat brake section. The photo below that shows the results you should get if you succeed at everything mentioned above: you can make out the layer lines since, in the end, it's still a 3D print, but if you look at the light's reflection, you'll see it has absolutely no texture aside from the one the PEI bed imprinted, even if you zoom in. It was printed with a Z offset of -2.1 and a first layer height of 0.1mm, with a fresh PTFE section inserted on the hotend. Needles to say, not only does such a first layer looks... Immaculate (ha, almost used the same word once more), but the model's adhesion is literally the best you'll get from your print surface, and that just makes your machine more reliable. https://preview.redd.it/uewogh1jn1tc1.jpeg?width=1564&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7937051979e187960d2b27d4c1abb444c0d97cea
Fiber
I use a bidet from Tushy
Buy a bidet. They're life changing. Oh, printing? Probably lower your Z?
I'm a massive fan of my travel bidet, yeah it's not as good as the properly built into the toilet ones but it's also 10x cheaper and I can take it with me
Bidet
A bidet
Wet wipes do the trick if you can’t afford a bidet.
If you look at the layer lines, it looks like your slicer is actually connecting the piece across some of the smaller gaps (with intentional lines, not accidentally). I don't usually print to such tight tolerances, but I'd bet there's a setting in your slicer for that.
https://preview.redd.it/7yglj4exyvsc1.jpeg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=18fddf385d2a668d69654c9e6add1a3172e8137c
Is that an Onyx?
If there are gaps on the first layer, or it looks like it's coming up off the plate, adjust your z offset to print closer to the bed. It needs to squish more onto the plate. Then, if it continues to have the gaps on upper layers, it may be that you need to adjust the flow rate so as to print thicker/wider lines. It's under-extruding in that case. See teachingtech on YouTube or his website, or find other calibrations for that.
Your first layer should basically look like the surface on the print bed. As said it's your Z-Offset or leveling. Z-Offset should probably be adjusted as it looks like things are level, it's just too high. Probably needs to be 0.1mm lower. To not waste time, print a decent size one layer square.
Looks like you need more first layer squish. Try and adjust your z offset.
From your replies I can see that you don’t actually how to level the bed. I’d visit YouTube and watch a few hours of videos and start absorbing as much knowledge as you can.
I had a similar issue when switching to Bambu Studio, essentially no bottom layer after tweaking some parameters away from the default settings. I resolved the problem by setting Top and Bottom Z Distance to 0. https://preview.redd.it/0vfo16xo5wsc1.png?width=463&format=png&auto=webp&s=95fc36ffb2f9fa70f08088e8463d5714c1142b7d
Z offset is to high rn, use a piece of paper to do it, and find a good YouTube tutorial on how to fix that. If bed adhesion is an issue, raise temp, use glue stick/hairspray as well.
I would increase initial layer flow by 10% - 25%, of you're still getting poor quality/adhesion then level the bed with a thinner shim.
🤐
Your z offset is too high
Adjust you extruder head layer height. If it looks like this in some places but not all, you could have a warped bed. As this looks pretty even, I would say to manually level your z axis. You can find 'calibration' files just about anywhere. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6173762 Here is a set from thingiverse.
Z offset is not the same as mesh leveling or auto leveling. Take time to manually calibrate your z offset with a piece of paper. Then autolevel and store meshes
Glass bed