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IcedSparklingWater

I noticed that the faults on the print for both are pretty similar in place and shape… maybe might be a fault in the gcode/slice? And if it is consistent on that layer height, it could also be the position of the spool choking up the feed, or some gunk stuck on that level of z-axis.


KitsunaKuraichi

I resliced the file and its still there. Works perfectly gine on my Ender 3 though. Very smooth and no gaps. Cleaned out the nozzle and heatsink and turned the temps up 5 degrees but its still happening. No bending in z axis or gunk on it. No clicking on z axis either. Any other ideas?


ChemicaRegem

If the fault always occurs at the same height, as the same pattern, regardless of the model you print, it could be that your z axis lead screw is warped or damaged such that the stepper motor shifts or skips while traveling up at those spots. Inspect the lead screw at that height for any deformities or nicks in the thread. You might be able to tell if it’s bent as well.


FridayNightRiot

I agree, something going on with z axis, likely damaged lead/ball screw.


KitsunaKuraichi

Doesn't happen in the same place on every model but it does happen and on different heights. This picture is two of the same nozzle with different filament. I resliced the file and its still there. Works perfectly fine on my Ender 3 though. Very smooth and no gaps. Cleaned out the nozzle and heatsink and turned the temps up 5 degrees but its still happening. No bending in z axis or gunk on it. No clicking on z axis either. Any other ideas?


ShakiCS

Underextrusion maybe ? Check if theres a lot of tension on the filament/extruder when it gets to that position. Otherwise try increasing nozzle temps a bit.


akmosquito

and check the nozzle for clogs!


KitsunaKuraichi

Cleaned out nozzle, increased temp, no underextrusion according to tests. Does this at multiple heights and positions for different models.


Decent-Pin-24

Do you have dual Z axis? That helps some. But most likely not here. Was your nozzle installed while hot? Is the bowden tube cut flush? Clips on the connectors? If you're on an Ender 3 Pro, do you use flat 35mm/s in Cura 5.6? How hot are you printing? Could it be heat creep? Had to lower mine to 200\* C.


KitsunaKuraichi

It's a standard Anycubic Kobra 2 with a steel nozzle. Installed the nozzle while hot and tightened with the bowden tube flush and unchanged from the factory. Clips are in place. Cura is updated to latest version for my Kobra. 205 on PLA+. Perfected according to temp and retraction tests.


weissbieremulsion

steel nozzles need extra Temperatur. increased die n 5 degrees increments and See If that helps. dont Go Higher than 225. If this issue persists, you have some partial cloggs in your hotend, Heat creep or missed steps in your Extruder.


KitsunaKuraichi

I already increased the temp to account for the nozzle before. I increased it again to 210 and cleaned out the nozzle. No clicking on the extruder either.


Banannamamajama

Make sure z rods are clean and greased


gwax

I've seen gaps like that as a result of incorrectly calibrated retraction settings. Specifically, if you're retracting too much (ex. using Bowden retraction settings on a direct extruder), the printer fails to sufficiently reprime the extruder after a retraction and/or new layer start.


KitsunaKuraichi

I'm stumped on this one. Anycubic Kobra 2 with a steel nozzle. The orange one is the older one before the tuning and the older roll of filament. The blue one is after tuning with a new vacuum sealed roll of filament. 1st problem, Layer lines: I've tightened screws across the machine and the belts to where they are perfect. I even tightened the housing for the nozzle to the bar in case that was it. The platform the printer sits on is pressed against a wall and and doesn't shake when jostled. Filament is fresh out of the pack in the second picture. The bed heaters heat the entire room to a perfect consistent temp and the vents for the AC are closed so there is no interference. I tried lowering the flow by 2% from 100 and I'm hesitant to mess with that to much. My old Ender 3 Pro sits on the floor in the same room and has much cleaner prints with no gaps. 2nd Problem, Gaps: No idea whats causing this. The temp for this PLA+ is 205 (both rolls from two separate brands but they temp tested at the same temps). The retraction is at 0.5 and 43 mm/s. I'm already getting a little stringing with these settings. I did a retractions test and it said 0.6 was good at 40 mm/s and I have been lowering one and tried to raise the other. Looking at where the layer starts in cura, it is where the new line starts. Z hop only happens on retractions at a height of 0.2.


trusnake

How is your part fan working? it looks like maybe you’ve got a short one of your wires, when your tool head moves to certain parts of the bed maybe your fan isn’t being powered This was an issue with one of my old printers.


RuddyDeliverables

I don't have a solution but currently have the same problem with my Prusa Mini. Good luck!


_-Zed-_

It's in the exact same place every time? Even after a reslice? That suggests something physical is wrong with the machine. Move your axis to the position it would be in when printing that area. Check for any binding or tightness.


k_o_g_i

This looks like under extrusion which can have several causes. Could be a partial clog, wet filament (unlikely here), or a couple other things, but my GUESS is that it's too cold, which is leading to your nozzle partially clogging. Try bumping up your temps 5 - 10 degrees and see if it helps.


k_o_g_i

Sometimes filaments legitimately just need to be printed hotter than what's printed on the roll, but more often the number on your printer just isn't quite accurate and even though it SAYS 205°C, it might ACTUALLY be lower than that (reality being higher than displayed can happen, too, but lower than displayed is what could be causing your issues here)


-Bad-Company

Not sure if this is your problem but I had this same issue the ptfe lineing in my hot end was shot I had to replace it and this fixed my issue you can check by looking up at the hotend heater block after you unscrew the nozzle if it looks completely blocked/ black and nasty it probably needs to be replaced


Doksa99

Hey man, search up the term: “z binding”. Brass coupler on Z axis lead screws shouldn’t be too tight. Actually it should be loosey goosey. Along with that, check your lubrication and clean the screws.


Lil-KolidaScope

It kinda looks as if it’s not extruding filament the first few mm on the skin imo


blunt0trauma

What's the humidity?


Ground-walker

Listen for clicking while printing


KitsunaKuraichi

No clicking while printing.


Ground-walker

Could be something to do with combing. Check that layer in slicer and see if the travel is weird there. Could need extra prime after retraction hard to say sorry its tricky. Could try smaller layer height