I think first train it to learn that listening to you gets rewards. So calling their name and rewarding them for coming- basic obedience.
For leash pulling, I’ve heard to go outside and just walk maybe 10 steps forward and then back. Just back and forth for a while. If they pull, quickly turn the other way and reward. You want them to know that following you gets rewarded.
That’s how I’ve taught my dog but there’s plenty of tutorials on YouTube. Just don’t use aggression, or unnecessary punishment !
This works but make sure the reward is for them turning due to leash pressure, reward whenever they respond to leash pressure (if you start turning or pulling them in a direction they don't resisit)
if you have to force them to turn don't reward
Aww, he looks like a baby! He’s almost certainly just overwhelmed by the environment. In my experience at that age it got worse before it got better. From about 9 to 12 months we paused leash walks entirely for a while because they were so frustrating for me and I needed to stop him from practicing unwanted behaviors. We played games to build value for me/walking nicely with me in our (fenced) back yard instead. You can even start inside your house in a quiet room and move progressively closer to the door, then outside and so on, once he’s shown consistent engagement with you and he has confidence in what you’re asking of him in each environment. From there you can practice in the backyard, then the driveway, then the front yard, etc. When you eventually move to the sidewalk or street, keep it SHORT and SUCCESSFUL (actually, this is important at all levels). It’s better to end a training session or walk too early than too late! Reward check-ins with you when he finishes sniffing. I used to heavily reward all his checkins when walking but I’m trying to fade out treats (a slow process) and just encourage him to walk nicely near me so I’m shifting to rewarding loose leash behavior and seeing results (it’s slow, but it’s improvement!)
[Susan Garrett has a podcast/video on improving walking which is a good place to start](https://youtu.be/FQBtdAoxkFg?si=WbpImdUm5ACnHp9t). Some other things that have helped us are working on emergency u-turns and other sudden changes in speed and/or directions—if he doesn’t know what’s coming next, he’s more likely to keep an eye on me. I also make it fun with other games: Find It/treat scatters in the grass and the Up/Down Pattern Game (these two also help a lot with his arousal, which is very high and something we are constantly working on); the Name Game, Collar Grabs, or I’ll even just throw in some basic cues and tricks to break up the walk. I’ll have him jump up on things like low landscape walls or rocks to build his confidence. High value treats don’t hurt, either (he loves cold cuts from the deli!). 1-2-3 Calm Walking is great for distractions like people or dogs and so is Magnet Hand/Whiplash.
Ultimately, improving our walks has been an exercise in patience on my part. I’ve also reframed how I think about walks—they are an enrichment activity for my dog, so he gets to sniff to his heart’s content. I highly recommend a leash manners class and a pattern games class if you can find anything like that locally. Fenzi Dog Sports Academy [has a pattern games class you can take virtually at the bronze level right now](https://www.fenzidogsportsacademy.com/index.php/courses/33396)! If you want to DIY, Control Unleashed by Leslie McDevitt is sort of the Pattern Game bible, and you can find videos of the games I’ve mentioned online. Susan Garrett’s whole training program is built on games, which is fun for your dog and helps with manners and control in general, including leash walking.
I’ll also mention: harnesses don’t encourage pulling—pullers gonna pull regardless—but they are safer for pullers because they reduce the risk of neck injury while you’re training them not to pull. Front clip harnesses that don’t impede gait are the best choice (like the Blue9 Balance)—steer away from no-pull harnesses like the Easy Walk that impede shoulder movement, which can lead to injury.
I trained my dog with the video’s of Zak George. They are free on YouTube. My dog is now really welbehaved on leash, but it took a while, a lot of energy and very consistent training. It is not an easy thing to teach them.
have you been to a leash manners / basic obedience class? getting hands on help will be a lot more useful than strangers telling you what to do, since we can’t see your dog in action, and different dogs respond differently to different methods.
your dog looks like a puppy, and leash walking is a difficult skill even for adult dogs.
also, please don’t use an e-collar.
He is a puppy! he’s 17 weeks old, we just moved and are in a bit of a tighter spot on money so eventually we’re going to go to classes once we get caught up on bills and such and I can do more research to find a good training class for him. I promise I’ll never use an E-collar personally I think they’re unnecessary and neglectful there are definitely different routes people can take and I would rather not stress him out. I want training to be enjoyable for him very big on positive reinforcement
There are good resources in the dog training Reddit or on YouTube. But starting obedience training from day 1 with this breed is soooo important I can't stress this enough 🩷 even the petco ones for puppy group socialization classes are very inexpensive!
Rule 4: Your comment/post has been removed. Aversive training methods and recommendations of trainers who utilize aversive methods are not allowed on this sub.
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Why is training a dog to recall to a tone aversive? I'm genuinely curious. I can't scream come here at the top of my lungs when she's across the property. It seems she associates the noise with returning and getting a treat, she hears the noise, tail goes up and wags, runs to me for a treat. I hope I'm not messing her up somehow. She's a great dog.
Good lord! Why would you get an Aussie then?!?! They are not inexpensive pets. They require training and a lot of hard work. Can you give the animal back to the breeder so someone who can handle it can adopt?
Can you shut up? I understand they’re not inexpensive. I simply can’t afford it right now being the key word I just spent over $5,000 moving. in about 2 weeks he’s going to his in person training. My sister is a licensed dog trainer that helps remotely as we live in different countries. I can handle my dog. You should handle your mouth.
You’re telling me at 16/17 weeks your dog was perfectly leash and everything else trained? I am literally 22 years old this is my first dog without any help from parental guidance.
Treat. Treat. And over treat. Start with short walks in a controlled environment(minimal distractions) if possible. While on the walk call your pups name, when they respond, give an excited YES! And give the pup a treat held tight to your leg. Repeat this often. Like over treat your pup. Eventually your pup will learn that paying attention to you gets a reward. Keep in mind that administering the treat close to your body encourages your pup to stick close, giving you a nice slacked leash. Eventually your pup will start looking at you without prompting, continue treating. My wife and I did this for our first pup and she’s a great leash walker. Our second was a rescue, so it took months for him to conform but eventually he did and now he walks really well. Good luck!
You said harness, are you talking about a no pull harness? My Aussie would pull pull and nothing would work until I got her a no-pull harness. She learned on that first walk with it and had been a good girl since
I use this one from amazon:
https://a.co/d/9zEoPsn
I would connect her leash to the chest area and when she would try to run off and pull it would turn her around which she did not like. She quickly learned not to pull
E-collar would just frustrate and irritate him, not usefule and absolutely not recommended. We had the same problem, just give him enough time on walks to process everthing he sees/smells and start walking when he watches on you. If he walks in the leash, stand still and wait until hes watching you and reward it. You need to be consequent. And give it time, a dog in the puberty is even distracted by a fly. Just dont follow him if he pulls and let him having sucess with that.
https://2houndsdesign.com/products/jellybean-sugar-freedom-no-pull-dog-harness?variant=46291570360625¤cy=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIoYLV9a3RhgMVlxOtBh3opAp7EAQYASABEgImz_D_BwE
2 hounds no pull harness! Clip it in the front!
I'll also say this - dogs have to be trained to walk on leash. I didn't know this haha. I thought they just figured it out. Nope, they need to be trained or else they'll always be pulling. Get a little treat pouch and put treats or kibble in it and use it as a lure to get your pup to follow you and stay in a close heal position. Get in training classes asap. Really focus on the dog maintain focus on you during walks, ignoring people and other dogs, (with timed socialization in other scenarios of course) and only going to sniff and explore when you give a release word or let them and they're done "working" aka walking at heel. I know it sounds complicated but once you start practicing and with help from a trainer it's not. I learned this the hard way and didn't start soon enough and now my pup is reactive. Aussies are prone to leash reactivity (aka barking lunging etc) if not trained properly early and often. I waited too long to work on leash skills thinking he'd come around with age. I thought in order to socialize he needed to say hi to everything and everyone when we were on a walk. Id let him drag me to go say hi to other dogs and people. Then when I wouldn't let him he started to be reactive. That's why getting that heel walk and focus is so important from such a young age. Puppy classes are a great way to socialize them in a trained environment. Or look for puppy meet ups or pack walks online! As soon as he's allowed to be outside start working at it every single walk. And that harness was a game change. When you clip in front, when they pull it turns them around. They're so smart and sweet, enjoy!
When they pull you stop and make them sit. It can take a while for your dog to figure it out. Some get it quickly and some it takes longer. That’s really all there is to it. Either you’ll train your dog not to pull or your dog will train you to stop caring that he / she pulls. Either way you should get an EZ-Walk harness.
My dog was notorious for pulling on the leash at almost all times. No matter what I do, just pull, pull, pull. I got him into some therapy dog classes, and he finally learned how to do a sniff walk, which has reduced his pulling. He now only pulls when he’s got a toy with him because he knows we are going to play with the toy.
To get the dog interested in sniffing, we started out with just doing small 2x2 or 3x3 sections and dropping crumbled up treats into that section.
People might laugh but I put my dog Hope's harness on backwards so the loop was in front. When she pulled hard it would pull her a perfect 180 and now she's facing me. It's like an instant and automatic redirection into what she needed to focus on; me (or you).
I think they make harnesses already like that, but I forget the name (ez harness maybe?).
Also have you tried very long leash training? I would walk Hope in her early life with a really long retractable in parks and trails and I found it was actually training her for no-leash situations. I really like how at 4 years old she sticks next to me without a leash and never goes further away from me than that original 20 or 30 foot retractable we trained with.
Create an obstacle course and make it fun. Constantly change directions constantly, jump over hurdles, go around trees, poles, etc., stop and go repeatedly (think red light , green light (the childhood game)), and more than anything, get them to follow your lead. So that they understand that they may be tangled if they aren't paying attention. Start in a semi distracted place. And then gradually practice walking in all scenarios. A scented/squeaky toy or fishy treats help in the beginning. And after some time, they will get it.
My Aussie HATED the leash when she came home. Now she's an angel. Did she hog tie me, wrap me up, or trip me several times at first? Yes. But now she's an angel, and I have always received comments about how great she is on leash.
Aussies are easy to train if you make the task a job. The earlier you start, the easier it will be.
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Best advice I ever got years ago was when he’s pulling just go the other way. You’re not doing it to choke him, but rather have him focus on you. Do not use a harness, because they pull harder. It takes a lot of consistent work but, you’ll get there. Speaking of focus, you can teach him to wait. I have a very sloped backyard. So I tell him wait, till I get to the bottom, then call him by saying here and treat him. Good luck to you and your puppy.
This! I taught her through a video and i would start by holding the leash in my right hand (and also hold the leash at about half way with the same hand) tell her to heel, start walking, and as soon as she started getting distracted/walking in front of me i would drop the slack of her leash and do a 180 and quickly start walking the other way. This taught her that if she wasn’t paying attention to me at all times then she would get pulled by her leash. The first session i did with her she started heeling within 5 minutes and i had no problems with her pulling. She’s 6 months and of course she still pulls every once in a while especially when she sees other dogs but it was actually a miracle worker for the most part and made walking with her 1000x more fun 😁
Besides training which others have recommended, my Aussie is also a leash puller and the [easy walk harness](https://a.co/d/4U3OcIG) is what I used when he was a puppy. When he got bigger/started to pull more we switched to a [gentle leader](https://a.co/d/gUPL93r). And now he uses a more heavy duty/big boy [head collar](https://a.co/d/d22zo3Q) with a 4ft leash and we rarely have issues with pulling.
You may not have to use the head collar if his training is successful, but just wanted to throw these out there as they really worked for us. Also, *never* use a retractable leash, they are terrible lol. I have also found that the standard 6ft leash is just too long for a dog who likes to pull. 4ft works better for me. But that’s just us!
Edit: I will also warn that, with the head collar, be careful not to jerk the leash because it can hurt their neck.
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What helped with mine was circles (like I called it)
Your puppy starts to pull on the leash turn the opposite direction walk with him/her a few steps if they start pulling again, again switch directions. If they don't pull encourage their behaviour (you decide if treats or just by words or maybe a playtime).
As well what was also very good for training with my big boy to get a person/a toy where he would pull directly to into our direction. Same game as above, he started pulling we switched directions, till he realised if I walk "normally" towards the toy/person I will get there.
Good luck with your little one 🤞🐶
Edit. I personally would recommend a harness for leash training. If you have a very forcefull and stubborn puppy like mine was a collar could easily choke your dog which leads to frustration and hurting/unwell feeling in them
Rule 4: Your comment/post has been removed. Aversive training methods and recommendations of trainers who utilize aversive methods are not allowed on this sub.
I started with a prong and I swear my Aussie would've rather broken his neck than walk next to me. Once I switched to the front clip no pull harness it changed the game! Highly recommend that route op!
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I think first train it to learn that listening to you gets rewards. So calling their name and rewarding them for coming- basic obedience. For leash pulling, I’ve heard to go outside and just walk maybe 10 steps forward and then back. Just back and forth for a while. If they pull, quickly turn the other way and reward. You want them to know that following you gets rewarded. That’s how I’ve taught my dog but there’s plenty of tutorials on YouTube. Just don’t use aggression, or unnecessary punishment !
Oh this is an interestingly (easy?) approach.
This works but make sure the reward is for them turning due to leash pressure, reward whenever they respond to leash pressure (if you start turning or pulling them in a direction they don't resisit) if you have to force them to turn don't reward
Aww, he looks like a baby! He’s almost certainly just overwhelmed by the environment. In my experience at that age it got worse before it got better. From about 9 to 12 months we paused leash walks entirely for a while because they were so frustrating for me and I needed to stop him from practicing unwanted behaviors. We played games to build value for me/walking nicely with me in our (fenced) back yard instead. You can even start inside your house in a quiet room and move progressively closer to the door, then outside and so on, once he’s shown consistent engagement with you and he has confidence in what you’re asking of him in each environment. From there you can practice in the backyard, then the driveway, then the front yard, etc. When you eventually move to the sidewalk or street, keep it SHORT and SUCCESSFUL (actually, this is important at all levels). It’s better to end a training session or walk too early than too late! Reward check-ins with you when he finishes sniffing. I used to heavily reward all his checkins when walking but I’m trying to fade out treats (a slow process) and just encourage him to walk nicely near me so I’m shifting to rewarding loose leash behavior and seeing results (it’s slow, but it’s improvement!) [Susan Garrett has a podcast/video on improving walking which is a good place to start](https://youtu.be/FQBtdAoxkFg?si=WbpImdUm5ACnHp9t). Some other things that have helped us are working on emergency u-turns and other sudden changes in speed and/or directions—if he doesn’t know what’s coming next, he’s more likely to keep an eye on me. I also make it fun with other games: Find It/treat scatters in the grass and the Up/Down Pattern Game (these two also help a lot with his arousal, which is very high and something we are constantly working on); the Name Game, Collar Grabs, or I’ll even just throw in some basic cues and tricks to break up the walk. I’ll have him jump up on things like low landscape walls or rocks to build his confidence. High value treats don’t hurt, either (he loves cold cuts from the deli!). 1-2-3 Calm Walking is great for distractions like people or dogs and so is Magnet Hand/Whiplash. Ultimately, improving our walks has been an exercise in patience on my part. I’ve also reframed how I think about walks—they are an enrichment activity for my dog, so he gets to sniff to his heart’s content. I highly recommend a leash manners class and a pattern games class if you can find anything like that locally. Fenzi Dog Sports Academy [has a pattern games class you can take virtually at the bronze level right now](https://www.fenzidogsportsacademy.com/index.php/courses/33396)! If you want to DIY, Control Unleashed by Leslie McDevitt is sort of the Pattern Game bible, and you can find videos of the games I’ve mentioned online. Susan Garrett’s whole training program is built on games, which is fun for your dog and helps with manners and control in general, including leash walking. I’ll also mention: harnesses don’t encourage pulling—pullers gonna pull regardless—but they are safer for pullers because they reduce the risk of neck injury while you’re training them not to pull. Front clip harnesses that don’t impede gait are the best choice (like the Blue9 Balance)—steer away from no-pull harnesses like the Easy Walk that impede shoulder movement, which can lead to injury.
all of this!
I trained my dog with the video’s of Zak George. They are free on YouTube. My dog is now really welbehaved on leash, but it took a while, a lot of energy and very consistent training. It is not an easy thing to teach them.
have you been to a leash manners / basic obedience class? getting hands on help will be a lot more useful than strangers telling you what to do, since we can’t see your dog in action, and different dogs respond differently to different methods. your dog looks like a puppy, and leash walking is a difficult skill even for adult dogs. also, please don’t use an e-collar.
He is a puppy! he’s 17 weeks old, we just moved and are in a bit of a tighter spot on money so eventually we’re going to go to classes once we get caught up on bills and such and I can do more research to find a good training class for him. I promise I’ll never use an E-collar personally I think they’re unnecessary and neglectful there are definitely different routes people can take and I would rather not stress him out. I want training to be enjoyable for him very big on positive reinforcement
There are good resources in the dog training Reddit or on YouTube. But starting obedience training from day 1 with this breed is soooo important I can't stress this enough 🩷 even the petco ones for puppy group socialization classes are very inexpensive!
[удалено]
Rule 4: Your comment/post has been removed. Aversive training methods and recommendations of trainers who utilize aversive methods are not allowed on this sub.
[удалено]
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Why is training a dog to recall to a tone aversive? I'm genuinely curious. I can't scream come here at the top of my lungs when she's across the property. It seems she associates the noise with returning and getting a treat, she hears the noise, tail goes up and wags, runs to me for a treat. I hope I'm not messing her up somehow. She's a great dog.
Good lord! Why would you get an Aussie then?!?! They are not inexpensive pets. They require training and a lot of hard work. Can you give the animal back to the breeder so someone who can handle it can adopt?
Can you shut up? I understand they’re not inexpensive. I simply can’t afford it right now being the key word I just spent over $5,000 moving. in about 2 weeks he’s going to his in person training. My sister is a licensed dog trainer that helps remotely as we live in different countries. I can handle my dog. You should handle your mouth.
Apparently you can’t handle your dog…
You’re telling me at 16/17 weeks your dog was perfectly leash and everything else trained? I am literally 22 years old this is my first dog without any help from parental guidance.
Treat. Treat. And over treat. Start with short walks in a controlled environment(minimal distractions) if possible. While on the walk call your pups name, when they respond, give an excited YES! And give the pup a treat held tight to your leg. Repeat this often. Like over treat your pup. Eventually your pup will learn that paying attention to you gets a reward. Keep in mind that administering the treat close to your body encourages your pup to stick close, giving you a nice slacked leash. Eventually your pup will start looking at you without prompting, continue treating. My wife and I did this for our first pup and she’s a great leash walker. Our second was a rescue, so it took months for him to conform but eventually he did and now he walks really well. Good luck!
A harness with a front clip was a game charger.
You said harness, are you talking about a no pull harness? My Aussie would pull pull and nothing would work until I got her a no-pull harness. She learned on that first walk with it and had been a good girl since
I’ve honestly never heard of a no pull harness! Do you have any recommendations or links to a good one?!
Just linked on in my comment:) but the 2hounds brand was a life saver
I use this one from amazon: https://a.co/d/9zEoPsn I would connect her leash to the chest area and when she would try to run off and pull it would turn her around which she did not like. She quickly learned not to pull
E-collar would just frustrate and irritate him, not usefule and absolutely not recommended. We had the same problem, just give him enough time on walks to process everthing he sees/smells and start walking when he watches on you. If he walks in the leash, stand still and wait until hes watching you and reward it. You need to be consequent. And give it time, a dog in the puberty is even distracted by a fly. Just dont follow him if he pulls and let him having sucess with that.
https://2houndsdesign.com/products/jellybean-sugar-freedom-no-pull-dog-harness?variant=46291570360625¤cy=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIoYLV9a3RhgMVlxOtBh3opAp7EAQYASABEgImz_D_BwE 2 hounds no pull harness! Clip it in the front!
I'll also say this - dogs have to be trained to walk on leash. I didn't know this haha. I thought they just figured it out. Nope, they need to be trained or else they'll always be pulling. Get a little treat pouch and put treats or kibble in it and use it as a lure to get your pup to follow you and stay in a close heal position. Get in training classes asap. Really focus on the dog maintain focus on you during walks, ignoring people and other dogs, (with timed socialization in other scenarios of course) and only going to sniff and explore when you give a release word or let them and they're done "working" aka walking at heel. I know it sounds complicated but once you start practicing and with help from a trainer it's not. I learned this the hard way and didn't start soon enough and now my pup is reactive. Aussies are prone to leash reactivity (aka barking lunging etc) if not trained properly early and often. I waited too long to work on leash skills thinking he'd come around with age. I thought in order to socialize he needed to say hi to everything and everyone when we were on a walk. Id let him drag me to go say hi to other dogs and people. Then when I wouldn't let him he started to be reactive. That's why getting that heel walk and focus is so important from such a young age. Puppy classes are a great way to socialize them in a trained environment. Or look for puppy meet ups or pack walks online! As soon as he's allowed to be outside start working at it every single walk. And that harness was a game change. When you clip in front, when they pull it turns them around. They're so smart and sweet, enjoy!
Wooden spoon + peanut butter or frozen Greek yogurt 😊 train them to walk at your side + positive reinforcement.. enjoy!
When they pull you stop and make them sit. It can take a while for your dog to figure it out. Some get it quickly and some it takes longer. That’s really all there is to it. Either you’ll train your dog not to pull or your dog will train you to stop caring that he / she pulls. Either way you should get an EZ-Walk harness.
Puppy school solved e erything for us.
My dog was notorious for pulling on the leash at almost all times. No matter what I do, just pull, pull, pull. I got him into some therapy dog classes, and he finally learned how to do a sniff walk, which has reduced his pulling. He now only pulls when he’s got a toy with him because he knows we are going to play with the toy. To get the dog interested in sniffing, we started out with just doing small 2x2 or 3x3 sections and dropping crumbled up treats into that section.
People might laugh but I put my dog Hope's harness on backwards so the loop was in front. When she pulled hard it would pull her a perfect 180 and now she's facing me. It's like an instant and automatic redirection into what she needed to focus on; me (or you). I think they make harnesses already like that, but I forget the name (ez harness maybe?). Also have you tried very long leash training? I would walk Hope in her early life with a really long retractable in parks and trails and I found it was actually training her for no-leash situations. I really like how at 4 years old she sticks next to me without a leash and never goes further away from me than that original 20 or 30 foot retractable we trained with.
Don't allow your dog to take a single step with a taught leash.
Create an obstacle course and make it fun. Constantly change directions constantly, jump over hurdles, go around trees, poles, etc., stop and go repeatedly (think red light , green light (the childhood game)), and more than anything, get them to follow your lead. So that they understand that they may be tangled if they aren't paying attention. Start in a semi distracted place. And then gradually practice walking in all scenarios. A scented/squeaky toy or fishy treats help in the beginning. And after some time, they will get it. My Aussie HATED the leash when she came home. Now she's an angel. Did she hog tie me, wrap me up, or trip me several times at first? Yes. But now she's an angel, and I have always received comments about how great she is on leash. Aussies are easy to train if you make the task a job. The earlier you start, the easier it will be.
[удалено]
Rule 4: Your comment/post has been removed. Aversive training methods and recommendations of trainers who utilize aversive methods are not allowed on this sub.
I have the barista Plague Doctor Squisable!
So cute!!!
Best advice I ever got years ago was when he’s pulling just go the other way. You’re not doing it to choke him, but rather have him focus on you. Do not use a harness, because they pull harder. It takes a lot of consistent work but, you’ll get there. Speaking of focus, you can teach him to wait. I have a very sloped backyard. So I tell him wait, till I get to the bottom, then call him by saying here and treat him. Good luck to you and your puppy.
Yes or just stop and wait for them to stop pulling. You might go an inch a minute for weeks but eventually they'll get it
This! I taught her through a video and i would start by holding the leash in my right hand (and also hold the leash at about half way with the same hand) tell her to heel, start walking, and as soon as she started getting distracted/walking in front of me i would drop the slack of her leash and do a 180 and quickly start walking the other way. This taught her that if she wasn’t paying attention to me at all times then she would get pulled by her leash. The first session i did with her she started heeling within 5 minutes and i had no problems with her pulling. She’s 6 months and of course she still pulls every once in a while especially when she sees other dogs but it was actually a miracle worker for the most part and made walking with her 1000x more fun 😁
Besides training which others have recommended, my Aussie is also a leash puller and the [easy walk harness](https://a.co/d/4U3OcIG) is what I used when he was a puppy. When he got bigger/started to pull more we switched to a [gentle leader](https://a.co/d/gUPL93r). And now he uses a more heavy duty/big boy [head collar](https://a.co/d/d22zo3Q) with a 4ft leash and we rarely have issues with pulling. You may not have to use the head collar if his training is successful, but just wanted to throw these out there as they really worked for us. Also, *never* use a retractable leash, they are terrible lol. I have also found that the standard 6ft leash is just too long for a dog who likes to pull. 4ft works better for me. But that’s just us! Edit: I will also warn that, with the head collar, be careful not to jerk the leash because it can hurt their neck.
[удалено]
Rule 4: Your comment/post has been removed. Aversive training methods and recommendations of trainers who utilize aversive methods are not allowed on this sub.
What helped with mine was circles (like I called it) Your puppy starts to pull on the leash turn the opposite direction walk with him/her a few steps if they start pulling again, again switch directions. If they don't pull encourage their behaviour (you decide if treats or just by words or maybe a playtime). As well what was also very good for training with my big boy to get a person/a toy where he would pull directly to into our direction. Same game as above, he started pulling we switched directions, till he realised if I walk "normally" towards the toy/person I will get there. Good luck with your little one 🤞🐶 Edit. I personally would recommend a harness for leash training. If you have a very forcefull and stubborn puppy like mine was a collar could easily choke your dog which leads to frustration and hurting/unwell feeling in them
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Thing that has worked for me, is just stopping completely when they start pulling, when they come back to you, reward and keep going
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I started with a prong and I swear my Aussie would've rather broken his neck than walk next to me. Once I switched to the front clip no pull harness it changed the game! Highly recommend that route op!
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Not pull on the leash 🤦🏻♂️ Shouldn’t have an Aussie.