First thing you need to do is start breaking the habit of placing things on the paint, like your gas cap.
It looks like the paint could be fully corrected in the hands of someone who knows what they’re doing.
As I have gotten older I kinda see things differently now bc I've done the whole garage queen show car thing. I'd rather drive a nice car that I love and put miles on that instead of a true beater. I'm not keeping it tight for the next dude.
Heavy cut compound, medium compound. Both applied with a rotary buffer with a white wool pad. Then polish, applied with an orbital buffer to give you the finish you want. And seal it with wax.
No, never suggest someone without experience use a rotary. And that doesn’t need a heavy compound. You would be taking unnecessary amounts of clear off for no reason. That can be done with 3D one and a rupes yellow foam. Never start with your heaviest cutting pads or compound. You can always cut deeper if need be but you can’t add clear back on.
Aussie here just had my car done professionally. Medium size hatch. $430 dual stage cut and polish. Included full clean clay bar etc. $500 US seems pricey
Full clean and clay bar is required to even do a polish, they’re not doing anything extra doing that.
Was it an established shop, mobile dealer, good buddy? Do they carry insurance? Ours a skill set they should’ve charged more for. They’re just selling their self for cheaper than need be
You are basically saying that you are a hobbyist and not running a business. So, of course, you could do it cheaper.
But, what you can do as a hobbyist has no bearing on what the market must charge for work done at a professional level.
At minimum, I expect a professional to carry general liability insurance, business auto insurance, and errors and omissions insurance. And to pay taxes.
Hobby is fine, but neighbors ask me quite often to do theirs. I'd love to, but if it costs me $10, I would have to charge $30 to cover liability and make anything
Step 1: undercut everyone in your local industry
Step 2: brag on a public forum you don't pay taxes, while insulting your competitors for "overcharging" by paying said taxes
Step 3: 😂
I work for cash, have my own garage and gear and I’d charge no less than 600 US to even touch this.
Suggesting you’re only doing a “clay” and two step DA means you’re probably making the car look clean and shiny, but not actually fixing it to a show room finish. It takes me near four hours to prep a car before I even start to correct the paint, and it’s near impossible to do a proper correction with only a DA unless you have a real one (flex 3401 vrg or the rupes mille) and that should take you a minimum of 6-12 hours for a full correction. I typically go to a rotary or the 3401 followed by a polish with a 15mm orbital.
You’re probably not wrong with your pricing, but if you want to move up to charge more, you need to be sure you’re correcting the problem and not making them just look good. That will be your major difference. (Not trying to argue or sound like a dick at all, just my personal opinion having started out in the same spot). If I’m wrong and you’re confident you’re 100% fixing the problem than you need to def find different customers and start charging more!! I started out charging 400$ for a truck and now I’m at 1600$ and it takes me two days.
What do you mean it’s near impossible to do a proper correction with a DA? I’ve never owned a rotary or forced rotation da in my life and I could do the same job with my rupes 15mark3/ibird21/, or with a maxshine or griots for ¼ of the price. If you need the best of the best to get good results I’m sorry but that’s a skill/combo issue no offense. And I don’t mean to be rude when saying that. I’ve never come across something deep enough where I would need a forced rotation to be able to put that much pressure. And if it’s super deep that I don’t want to spend more time on it I’ll throw in my Trizact 3k, again not needing a gear driven unit to accomplish the same thing. That’s what I mean by combo issue. There’s so many combos you can put together for different paints that give you the best results with just a normal da. The forced rotation are great units don’t get me wrong but not needed for most auto jobs. They’re better off for very large jobs like yachts/ anything with gel coat or solid surface where you need to be able to put heavy pressure without the orbit stopping.
No offence taken! I’m glad you get the results you want to achieve with just the orbital or DA for your cars. It definitely is possible given the pads and compound combinations and with unlimited time, anything can be achieved. They can work surprisingly well to make a vehicle shiny!
What I was getting at, is taking that next step from having a good product to something that is professional and timely. I couldn’t imagine how long it would take me using the number of pads and compounds and machines you mentioned to do a full proper correction (and I don’t mean just shiny). Rotaries are not just for yachts, and if you’re using pressure then the tool isn’t right for the job - they also aren’t a go to. I don’t think you have many hours with a rotary if that’s your thoughts on them. The condition of the clear, make and model also factor in. The finished product of using the right machines and combinations will take your jobs to a superior level with a timeline to work on more. I was only trying to help the other person make it to that next level!
If you’re interested in learning more about rotaries or forced rotation tools, YouTube has great channels to follow such as lake country or apex detailing which covers some pretty good basics. I used to make cars look nice and shiny, but now I’ve moved into high end cars, proper corrections of scratches, wet sanding, and superior ceramics. My local area is highly saturated with detailing shops offering corrections and coatings, but I charge double what they do and have now work on higher end vehicles and show cars. The right tools will definitely give you a superior finished product. Good luck!
I'm not a professional detailer.
If you told me you'd charge $150 for something that would take an entire day, I wouldn't let you touch my car. That rate basically implies that you're not very good at what you do.
No offense, I'm not saying you're not actually good, but charging minimum wage for professional work with specialized tools doesn't make sense to me.
I'm a painter. If I worked 8 hours, it would cost you roughly $600 plus materials.
You're making $18 per hour, not even counting your cost of materials....
You should be charging double that. If you're doing quality work, don't undersell yourself and undercut everyone else at the same time bc your work will eventually sell itself by word of mouth. I can charge whatever I want (within reason) and people will pay due to my reputation, alone.
I typically make $75+ per hour detailing. 2 step would take me 2 days typically and I’d charge accordingly. Last F250 I did paid $2700 for a 2 step and 5 year ceramic. Even at $2700, I never want to do another truck again. Big difference between professionals and hobbyists.
We should also keep in mind that 2 step DA doesn’t necessarily mean “paint correction” as not all paints are equal, also for $150 a day that’s basically minimum wage where I live and you have zero liability, zero operational costs… so it just makes no sense to expose yourself for nothing trust me if you do it long enough something will go wrong and you’ll have to pay out of pocket.
A 2 step should be considered a correction or you're not actually doing a 2 step. Step 1 homogenizes the surface and then the second step refines that. Now you could be doing it all incorrectly which means you're not actually correcting anything but then I also wouldn't consider that a 2 step, I'd consider it you wasting your time.
Yeah what you’re technically correct, however there’s a lot of shops that advertise 2 step or single step processes, but not all necessarily equate to full paint correction.
Amen to that. Lots of places I wouldn't let touch my paint with a new out of the wrapper wash mitt because they probably dropped it on the ground 3 times between the bucket and my truck.
A clay job would have removed surface contaminants but I’m not sure where the “polish and paint correction” happened. From my assessment, these can be removed but looks like you’ll need an actual paint correction with actual compound and then a polish and wax/sealant. White cars are easy. If you spend the money to have it properly done, you might want to reevaluate your washing routine and switch to a soft touch or hand wash and stay out of the swirlmaster tunnels.
Yeah I’m definitely re-evaluating the wash techniques. I read propaganda about machine washes not being bad and took the bait. Ignoring that part of the Costco membership now.
That’s not even bad, a one step paint correction should’ve gotten all that out easily. I paid $500 for wash, clay & iron decon, one step paint correction, plus some extras like tire shine and leather conditioning at the swankiest detailing shop in town. Place is state of the art full of lambos and Porsches. Don’t cheap out on that stuff, just get it done and then maintain it yourself going forward
You can absolutely get all of that out and it will look amazing. That looks like they just did a clay bar and hand wax job. There was absolutely no paint correction done with that many swirl marks left. A wool pad or foam cutting pad and a mild cutting compound would safely get those out. I switched to boats years ago but if I quoted this job it would be around $450-$500 at your home. That’s because I aim for about $100 an hour if I’m mobile and $70 an hour at my place of business. This job would take about 4-5 hours to complete because it’s honestly not that bad. You should see the boats I do now, it’s so much more satisfying but they take 30-50 hours. The 2001 B4000 below was similar to yours before and came out amazing in 4 1/2 hours.
https://preview.redd.it/w0d48gzkfy7d1.jpeg?width=960&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=112aaa8fa666ab34ddb58d638efbc098d09fc4c8
If you didn't fucking say anything and zoom in with a picture I wouldn't have noticed.
Take it like that, I guess.
Its also white (silvery white?), so i'd do it myself as its kinda hard to screw up white too badly. Worst case, you spent 20 bucks on polish and some rags and got a good workout, but may look better.
These photos were taken after you had a correction done? It’s a low price so makes sense the finishing work is not up to snuff.
With that said, we don’t know how bad the scratches were before they started. Maybe they needed aggressive compound to get defects out but it’s inexpensive because there is no time left for finishing (gloss and clarity). Also, it does look like more defect removal is warranted.
Yeah this was after, the marring definitely looked more toned down compared to before. But even after that wash it looked amazing. But I started looking closer and saw some of the scratches
Depends entirely on the condition of the paint before the 1 step, and how much paint you have left to work with on that 25 year old car. But, just based off the pictures alone, I’d say they could have gotten a better correction/finish from a 1 step with proper pad choice and compound/polish choice.
Depends on the paint, it will be different depending on the car. The “harder” the paint, the more aggressive the pad needs to be for a 1 step, the “softer” the paint, the less aggressive you’ll need to be to have the same results.
Yes this can be fixed. Anyone who states anything to do with charging for a clay bar is typically very new or not very experienced. Charging for a “clay barring” and polish is about the same as saying I’m going to wash the car with soap. It’s irrelevant because anyone fixing this professionally has about 6 steps to do before they start cutting.
Price for this to be fixed professionally as in, the result should be basically a brand new car, should run you a minimum of 500-800$. Anything less is either working for near free or doesn’t know what they’re getting into.
My charge for a car this size fully corrected with ceramic coating would run 800-1200$ Canadian so 600-900$ USD. No ceramic would probably be about 20% cheaper maybe - switching to Jescar ceramic sealant would be my go to if not ceramic coating.
I do a chemical decon every vehicle and rarely clay as well - however for the first time in four years and probably over 100 cars I marked one vehicle in a small spot from contamination on the pad from not claying. So now I will clay if the car was a mess, but yeah, chemical decons are the way to go.
But the amount of people that their go-to is a clay bar is a bit unnerving imo
Definitely need a better detailer because it doesn’t look like they even polished the paint. Do your research on the detailer, avoid the scams on FB where you have to text your make/model and they promise cheap service. Expect to pay at least $500 for the whole car, but those scratches should come out easily for the most part.
FYI on the inside of your fuel door there should be a little bracket to hold your cap. No need to put it on the trunk and scratch your paint. Not everyone knows about little feature.
Something to be very mindful of is the age of the paint and how much clear coat is left. In a vehicle of that age I would be taking paint measurements before and polisher touched the surface. That being said, if there is enough clear, then theoretically, yes you could have the marring removed with a 2 or possibly 3 stage correction. But keep in mind, that there’s only so much left after that so you the owner would need to maintain it the best you could. Now if the paint were very thin or showing the beginning signs of failure then sometimes the best route to go is to just do a light paint enhancement polish which is what it sounds like was done. And for the process and age of the vehicle, I think that’s very fair. I won’t even do an enhancement for less than $300 for a small vehicle. So I’d say you got a good price
Are you saying this is what your car looks like after that $270 procedure was done? The price is good however I think they probably just went over it with some cleaner wax on a DA, than called it a day.
If you honestly want to get it paint look as best as possible you really need to consider getting quotes for honest to goodness four stage color correction - beginning with decontamination wash, overall clay, wet sanding , compound , polish and Center going that far get it completely sealed up with some ceramic .
Unfortunately most legitimate shops these days are charging $1,500+ to do this. Prices have really jumped in the past 10 years for this service that I'm describing- My shop would have charged approx $700 .
it's a ridiculous amount of different stages to do and a lot of money. It really is a shit ton of work. Keep in mind that it's just not some bum that you hand a buffer polisher to doing this correctly requires skill and experience or you can really fuck up someone's vehicles finish
Yes that’s light work. I would have that 95% perfect in a short time. I say 95 because I can’t see all the paint and I don’t know how much paint is left on the vehicle. Has to be thick enough if there’s any deeper scratches. Those are very light swirls. I bet honestly if you picked up a da and some pads and 3D one you could knock that out in an afternoon by yourself with no prior experience. There are very good videos you can learn from on YouTube. If you wanted a pro to do it, it would cost a few hundred minimum.
First thing you need to do is start breaking the habit of placing things on the paint, like your gas cap. It looks like the paint could be fully corrected in the hands of someone who knows what they’re doing.
Awfully ironic to ask for help with paint correction with a picture of you doing something that does the exact opposite
Yea that bothers my ocd
That's why I drive beaters. It's not worth the emotional toll of potential damage to a vehicle. They're depreciating assets anyways.
As I have gotten older I kinda see things differently now bc I've done the whole garage queen show car thing. I'd rather drive a nice car that I love and put miles on that instead of a true beater. I'm not keeping it tight for the next dude.
Depends on what you’re driving… 😁
That’s not OCD lol
Heavy cut compound, medium compound. Both applied with a rotary buffer with a white wool pad. Then polish, applied with an orbital buffer to give you the finish you want. And seal it with wax.
No, never suggest someone without experience use a rotary. And that doesn’t need a heavy compound. You would be taking unnecessary amounts of clear off for no reason. That can be done with 3D one and a rupes yellow foam. Never start with your heaviest cutting pads or compound. You can always cut deeper if need be but you can’t add clear back on.
Yes. What he said. Paint looks reasonably fixable. And what a difference it would be.
That is way too cheap for a paint correction. You'd be looking at minimum $500 for a cheap guy for doing it.
Aussie here just had my car done professionally. Medium size hatch. $430 dual stage cut and polish. Included full clean clay bar etc. $500 US seems pricey
Full clean and clay bar is required to even do a polish, they’re not doing anything extra doing that. Was it an established shop, mobile dealer, good buddy? Do they carry insurance? Ours a skill set they should’ve charged more for. They’re just selling their self for cheaper than need be
Why is this stuff so expensive? I charge 150 for clay and a 2 step da + wash and a wax. Takes me a day
$150 a day not including materials, taxes, insurance, rent, etc is basically nothing
I do everything at home in my garage, had basically all materials already from private use. And i dont have to pay taxes
You are basically saying that you are a hobbyist and not running a business. So, of course, you could do it cheaper. But, what you can do as a hobbyist has no bearing on what the market must charge for work done at a professional level. At minimum, I expect a professional to carry general liability insurance, business auto insurance, and errors and omissions insurance. And to pay taxes.
Hobby is fine, but neighbors ask me quite often to do theirs. I'd love to, but if it costs me $10, I would have to charge $30 to cover liability and make anything
You: "I don't have to pay taxes" IRS: "Oh, our mistake, carry on"
No taxes... 🤣🤣🤣
Step 1: undercut everyone in your local industry Step 2: brag on a public forum you don't pay taxes, while insulting your competitors for "overcharging" by paying said taxes Step 3: 😂
A local detailer near to me asks 150 for a wash and a full polish, the 20 minutes spent on vacuuming i dont care about
This guy right here, officer! ☝🏼
I work for cash, have my own garage and gear and I’d charge no less than 600 US to even touch this. Suggesting you’re only doing a “clay” and two step DA means you’re probably making the car look clean and shiny, but not actually fixing it to a show room finish. It takes me near four hours to prep a car before I even start to correct the paint, and it’s near impossible to do a proper correction with only a DA unless you have a real one (flex 3401 vrg or the rupes mille) and that should take you a minimum of 6-12 hours for a full correction. I typically go to a rotary or the 3401 followed by a polish with a 15mm orbital. You’re probably not wrong with your pricing, but if you want to move up to charge more, you need to be sure you’re correcting the problem and not making them just look good. That will be your major difference. (Not trying to argue or sound like a dick at all, just my personal opinion having started out in the same spot). If I’m wrong and you’re confident you’re 100% fixing the problem than you need to def find different customers and start charging more!! I started out charging 400$ for a truck and now I’m at 1600$ and it takes me two days.
What do you mean it’s near impossible to do a proper correction with a DA? I’ve never owned a rotary or forced rotation da in my life and I could do the same job with my rupes 15mark3/ibird21/, or with a maxshine or griots for ¼ of the price. If you need the best of the best to get good results I’m sorry but that’s a skill/combo issue no offense. And I don’t mean to be rude when saying that. I’ve never come across something deep enough where I would need a forced rotation to be able to put that much pressure. And if it’s super deep that I don’t want to spend more time on it I’ll throw in my Trizact 3k, again not needing a gear driven unit to accomplish the same thing. That’s what I mean by combo issue. There’s so many combos you can put together for different paints that give you the best results with just a normal da. The forced rotation are great units don’t get me wrong but not needed for most auto jobs. They’re better off for very large jobs like yachts/ anything with gel coat or solid surface where you need to be able to put heavy pressure without the orbit stopping.
No offence taken! I’m glad you get the results you want to achieve with just the orbital or DA for your cars. It definitely is possible given the pads and compound combinations and with unlimited time, anything can be achieved. They can work surprisingly well to make a vehicle shiny! What I was getting at, is taking that next step from having a good product to something that is professional and timely. I couldn’t imagine how long it would take me using the number of pads and compounds and machines you mentioned to do a full proper correction (and I don’t mean just shiny). Rotaries are not just for yachts, and if you’re using pressure then the tool isn’t right for the job - they also aren’t a go to. I don’t think you have many hours with a rotary if that’s your thoughts on them. The condition of the clear, make and model also factor in. The finished product of using the right machines and combinations will take your jobs to a superior level with a timeline to work on more. I was only trying to help the other person make it to that next level! If you’re interested in learning more about rotaries or forced rotation tools, YouTube has great channels to follow such as lake country or apex detailing which covers some pretty good basics. I used to make cars look nice and shiny, but now I’ve moved into high end cars, proper corrections of scratches, wet sanding, and superior ceramics. My local area is highly saturated with detailing shops offering corrections and coatings, but I charge double what they do and have now work on higher end vehicles and show cars. The right tools will definitely give you a superior finished product. Good luck!
I'm not a professional detailer. If you told me you'd charge $150 for something that would take an entire day, I wouldn't let you touch my car. That rate basically implies that you're not very good at what you do. No offense, I'm not saying you're not actually good, but charging minimum wage for professional work with specialized tools doesn't make sense to me.
Two be fair it’s double minimum wage in a lot of states.
I charge more for just clay & wax 😂😂
Bro is proud to get paid 150 for 8 hours minimum, that's wild
I'm a painter. If I worked 8 hours, it would cost you roughly $600 plus materials. You're making $18 per hour, not even counting your cost of materials....
You should be charging double that. If you're doing quality work, don't undersell yourself and undercut everyone else at the same time bc your work will eventually sell itself by word of mouth. I can charge whatever I want (within reason) and people will pay due to my reputation, alone.
I typically make $75+ per hour detailing. 2 step would take me 2 days typically and I’d charge accordingly. Last F250 I did paid $2700 for a 2 step and 5 year ceramic. Even at $2700, I never want to do another truck again. Big difference between professionals and hobbyists.
We should also keep in mind that 2 step DA doesn’t necessarily mean “paint correction” as not all paints are equal, also for $150 a day that’s basically minimum wage where I live and you have zero liability, zero operational costs… so it just makes no sense to expose yourself for nothing trust me if you do it long enough something will go wrong and you’ll have to pay out of pocket.
A 2 step should be considered a correction or you're not actually doing a 2 step. Step 1 homogenizes the surface and then the second step refines that. Now you could be doing it all incorrectly which means you're not actually correcting anything but then I also wouldn't consider that a 2 step, I'd consider it you wasting your time.
Yeah what you’re technically correct, however there’s a lot of shops that advertise 2 step or single step processes, but not all necessarily equate to full paint correction.
Amen to that. Lots of places I wouldn't let touch my paint with a new out of the wrapper wash mitt because they probably dropped it on the ground 3 times between the bucket and my truck.
$150?! If you do even a remotely good job, you're terribly undercharging yourself.
A clay job would have removed surface contaminants but I’m not sure where the “polish and paint correction” happened. From my assessment, these can be removed but looks like you’ll need an actual paint correction with actual compound and then a polish and wax/sealant. White cars are easy. If you spend the money to have it properly done, you might want to reevaluate your washing routine and switch to a soft touch or hand wash and stay out of the swirlmaster tunnels.
Yeah I’m definitely re-evaluating the wash techniques. I read propaganda about machine washes not being bad and took the bait. Ignoring that part of the Costco membership now.
There is a spot on your gas door to hang up your gas cap fellow LS owner!
Now I feel like a dringus for not noticing that 
That’s not even bad, a one step paint correction should’ve gotten all that out easily. I paid $500 for wash, clay & iron decon, one step paint correction, plus some extras like tire shine and leather conditioning at the swankiest detailing shop in town. Place is state of the art full of lambos and Porsches. Don’t cheap out on that stuff, just get it done and then maintain it yourself going forward
Sure, stop putting your gas cap on it all the time and that will solve half of the issue at least
You can absolutely get all of that out and it will look amazing. That looks like they just did a clay bar and hand wax job. There was absolutely no paint correction done with that many swirl marks left. A wool pad or foam cutting pad and a mild cutting compound would safely get those out. I switched to boats years ago but if I quoted this job it would be around $450-$500 at your home. That’s because I aim for about $100 an hour if I’m mobile and $70 an hour at my place of business. This job would take about 4-5 hours to complete because it’s honestly not that bad. You should see the boats I do now, it’s so much more satisfying but they take 30-50 hours. The 2001 B4000 below was similar to yours before and came out amazing in 4 1/2 hours. https://preview.redd.it/w0d48gzkfy7d1.jpeg?width=960&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=112aaa8fa666ab34ddb58d638efbc098d09fc4c8
If you didn't fucking say anything and zoom in with a picture I wouldn't have noticed. Take it like that, I guess. Its also white (silvery white?), so i'd do it myself as its kinda hard to screw up white too badly. Worst case, you spent 20 bucks on polish and some rags and got a good workout, but may look better.
These photos were taken after you had a correction done? It’s a low price so makes sense the finishing work is not up to snuff. With that said, we don’t know how bad the scratches were before they started. Maybe they needed aggressive compound to get defects out but it’s inexpensive because there is no time left for finishing (gloss and clarity). Also, it does look like more defect removal is warranted.
Yeah this was after, the marring definitely looked more toned down compared to before. But even after that wash it looked amazing. But I started looking closer and saw some of the scratches
Depends entirely on the condition of the paint before the 1 step, and how much paint you have left to work with on that 25 year old car. But, just based off the pictures alone, I’d say they could have gotten a better correction/finish from a 1 step with proper pad choice and compound/polish choice.
What the proper pad for a step 1?
Depends on the paint, it will be different depending on the car. The “harder” the paint, the more aggressive the pad needs to be for a 1 step, the “softer” the paint, the less aggressive you’ll need to be to have the same results.
That’s pretty light. That’ll polish out.
Yes this can be fixed. Anyone who states anything to do with charging for a clay bar is typically very new or not very experienced. Charging for a “clay barring” and polish is about the same as saying I’m going to wash the car with soap. It’s irrelevant because anyone fixing this professionally has about 6 steps to do before they start cutting. Price for this to be fixed professionally as in, the result should be basically a brand new car, should run you a minimum of 500-800$. Anything less is either working for near free or doesn’t know what they’re getting into. My charge for a car this size fully corrected with ceramic coating would run 800-1200$ Canadian so 600-900$ USD. No ceramic would probably be about 20% cheaper maybe - switching to Jescar ceramic sealant would be my go to if not ceramic coating.
Good chance this car didnt really need a claybar before paint correction. I rarely ever clay tbh and I have no problem getting 100% swirl free results
I do a chemical decon every vehicle and rarely clay as well - however for the first time in four years and probably over 100 cars I marked one vehicle in a small spot from contamination on the pad from not claying. So now I will clay if the car was a mess, but yeah, chemical decons are the way to go. But the amount of people that their go-to is a clay bar is a bit unnerving imo
Would seriously just consider a good cut and polish with a orbiter
Definitely need a better detailer because it doesn’t look like they even polished the paint. Do your research on the detailer, avoid the scams on FB where you have to text your make/model and they promise cheap service. Expect to pay at least $500 for the whole car, but those scratches should come out easily for the most part. FYI on the inside of your fuel door there should be a little bracket to hold your cap. No need to put it on the trunk and scratch your paint. Not everyone knows about little feature.
2 step and it should improve 60-80%
Something to be very mindful of is the age of the paint and how much clear coat is left. In a vehicle of that age I would be taking paint measurements before and polisher touched the surface. That being said, if there is enough clear, then theoretically, yes you could have the marring removed with a 2 or possibly 3 stage correction. But keep in mind, that there’s only so much left after that so you the owner would need to maintain it the best you could. Now if the paint were very thin or showing the beginning signs of failure then sometimes the best route to go is to just do a light paint enhancement polish which is what it sounds like was done. And for the process and age of the vehicle, I think that’s very fair. I won’t even do an enhancement for less than $300 for a small vehicle. So I’d say you got a good price
[удалено]
2000 but close
Are you saying this is what your car looks like after that $270 procedure was done? The price is good however I think they probably just went over it with some cleaner wax on a DA, than called it a day. If you honestly want to get it paint look as best as possible you really need to consider getting quotes for honest to goodness four stage color correction - beginning with decontamination wash, overall clay, wet sanding , compound , polish and Center going that far get it completely sealed up with some ceramic . Unfortunately most legitimate shops these days are charging $1,500+ to do this. Prices have really jumped in the past 10 years for this service that I'm describing- My shop would have charged approx $700 . it's a ridiculous amount of different stages to do and a lot of money. It really is a shit ton of work. Keep in mind that it's just not some bum that you hand a buffer polisher to doing this correctly requires skill and experience or you can really fuck up someone's vehicles finish
Yes
Yes that’s light work. I would have that 95% perfect in a short time. I say 95 because I can’t see all the paint and I don’t know how much paint is left on the vehicle. Has to be thick enough if there’s any deeper scratches. Those are very light swirls. I bet honestly if you picked up a da and some pads and 3D one you could knock that out in an afternoon by yourself with no prior experience. There are very good videos you can learn from on YouTube. If you wanted a pro to do it, it would cost a few hundred minimum.
> *I have a 25 year old car that is well kept* Photographic evidence suggests otherwise.