It’s hollow under the top and bottom. It probably weighs closer to 125 based off my calculations. I could be off through. I just got this new jointer and after moving it out of my truck bed everything feels light.
https://preview.redd.it/7lu5ogwehaad1.jpeg?width=5712&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1900905a3ff90ebe2f7960d631c283df66fdf056
The top and bottom are 1.25” thick with a mitered apron to make it appear 3.25” thick. If you look under the table top and bottom there is empty space. (I already delivered this piece or else I’d take some pictures to help convey what I’m trying to get at)
I really wish I took some pictures because I’m having a hard time coming up with an explanation in my head. It’s basically a 1.25” panel with a mitered apron that is what sits on the ground and notched around the side “aprons” if you will.
Someone needs to chill out. Easy boy.... this is just a Reddit thread of people who love woodworking.
Just ask a question to clarify rather than go all agro.
Thank you. Pretty excited about it. Had a search alert set up for 4 months waiting to find the right one. Got this for $600 when I was expecting to pay closer to $1200 for an 8” long bed
Ive been trying my hand at hand tools, but jeez a planer seems like the way to go if this can be the speedy results! Don’t tell Chris Schwarz I said that.
I don’t think he’d give you any grief, pretty sure he mentions early in Anarchists Tool Chest that he’s hung on to his planer and band saw. It’s nice to be able to use a hand plane and at the moment it’s all I’ve got but man it’d sure be nice to get a planer to help finish a project in less than six months!
So this is actually the thing that has really held me back. I've spent so much on tools including a stanley #5 hand planer but while I've had a small amount of success after following tutorials on sharpening, I just don't have time to hand plane and keep sharpening then more hand planing. But not planing is keeping me from actually making anything (or so I tell myself) because if I can't make a flat surface what am I even doing.
Does a powered planer really fix this entirely? Does it make it pretty straight forward to just flatten a board? I've kind of just wondered if it isn't for me but I love the idea and the planning of a project but I have so much trouble with this basic aspect and I don't get it.
To get wood perfectly flat you would want both a jointer and a planer in most cases. I have just recently done two projects using 8/4 white oak that was to finish at 1.5" and ran the rough boards through the planer with no jointing to make it easier to rip into the widths I needed. Almost all came out shockingly flat but I would not count on that in most situations.
Ok, maybe I will just do it but my wife might kill me if I spend more in tools considering how little I've actually done lol. I've made only a small amount and if you consider the costs of the tools it's insane.
I really do want to do it but the hand planing has me really dejected since I have only had minimal success. One night I thought I had it and I did see results but then it just didn't continue to work and I lost motivation.
I don't understand how I'm doing it so wrong. Like I did finally have some success after buying a different honing guide and watching Matt azaela's(sp?) video 20 times for getting a hand plabe and that definitely helped a lot. But it still only seemed to work for a bit and didn't get it where I wanted to. I want to try again but I have kids a pretty demanding job and when I spend a long time trying something and seeing so little progress it's pretty defeating.
I've got a hand plane and a thickness planer. You still need to be able to flatten one side with the hand plane before running it through the thickness planer. But it does save a ton of time getting the board to thickness.
There are several videos about "stock preparation" on YouTube that show how to get parallel sides to a board using only a planer. The small trick is you need to make a "planer sled" / "jointer sled". And you also need shims and hot glue. But yes, you CAN get parallel faces using only a planer, with a little preparation and skill.
I made a sweet table top out of 80-some little pieces of wood and I don't even have a planer. I used my table saw to get the pieces kind of straight, and then just used my table saw again to get them more straight.
It's noisy, it's dusty, it creates a heck of a mound of sawdust / chips, but the results are there, fairly quickly.
Huh, so I have made a sled to make parallel sides but I didn't know you could make something that would flatten a board. I'll have to look that up thank you.
If you already made parallel sides, then you have made the jointer sled I was talking about.
The next thing is to get a perpendicular face. You can do this with the same sled depending on the width of your board. If it's an inch thick and 10" wide it won't work. But it could work for 2x4s.
The boards are about 4-5 inches. I guess I just didn't realize you could flip something like that and cut it that way but I guess it makes sense. I need to look it up to see a visual I think but if I can do that it would be amazing.
I just looked it up but it seems like I need one face to be flat which thinking about it makes much more sense. So I would need to get one side flat and then I could do this for the other side? Or is there a workaround
A lot of jointing and planing after ~10 trips to different Home Depot’s searching for the right pieces. It was insane how many 2x4’s contained the pith or were warped by an insane amount. I found the key was to find a Home Depot that just put out a fresh bundle and spend 30 minutes digging through it.
I tried that too. I found the straightest boards I could believe HD could have. Loaded them up and by the time I got home, they started to twist. Laid them flat, elevated in the garage. By the next morning the only thing I was able to make with it was corkscrews and abstract twisted art. lol
Yeah, you want something like `#1 kiln dried doug fir` from a lumber yard, over generic 2x4 pine/fir from home depot, to make your life a lot easier. I pay about $6.50-$7.00 per 2x4x8' stick versus home depot charging about $4, but the difference in quality is huge. I can pull out the six or eight that I need from their stacks in a couple minutes, and after some time at home they're still mostly straight and mostly flat, whereas with home depot it would take me fifteen minutes or more to find some that aren't shit and then after two weeks at home they're all funny shapes.
I used milled 2x4’s when I made my dust collector stand “because why not”. Delaminating was a bit of an issue but overall it was a nice way to make cheap lumber look like less cheap lumber.
My thoughts too. This is probably the nicest furniture I have seen made with dimensional lumber, at least recently. Actually planed and maybe jointed? Wow.
If you had asked me if you should do that, I would have emphatically said "NO!", but I'm totally stunned by how good that looks! The finish you put on it is at least partly what makes it look so professional... what is that?
Just an oil based mini wax in simply white. I found the key was to do small sections overlapping a bit and to rub it in with a scotch maroon colored pad and remove the excess with a scotch white pad. It made the coloring come out a lot more even than applying with a rag.
If you use an oil based poly you can get away with finishing sooner after applying stain. It’s best to wait it out when applying anything water based over and oil based product. I usually push the limits on wait time in woodworking but luckily I had some other stuff going on that prevented me from being in the shop.
Damn nice job!
I worked up a farmhouse coffee table a few years back out of HD pine lumber. Completely impossible without a planer. Just watch the corners on the soft wood. I rounded mine so they wouldn’t get dented and marred so easily.
I thought about rounding everything off. I kinda like the thought of the wear and tear a piece of furniture goes through showing on a more “rustic” piece like this. If this was built to be more of a modern look I would have put more effort into the edges.
Definetly gives it nice character. Because I went with the pre-aged farmhouse look, I rounded, but sanded it down more in certain areas. Worst case, if the dings look bad, sand them down to look more work than damaged. Pine is easy like that. Here’s the link to the coffee table I did. It definetly shows wear given its line, but I agree with the character.
https://www.reddit.com/r/BeginnerWoodWorking/s/mqepKALOpF
Great looking project! The darker color of yours probably shows wear a bit different than this light color as well. If you look closely there is a lot more dings and nicks on my project than the pictures show. I also used a Restorer tool that is basically a light wire wheel to dig out the soft grain and leave the hard grain higher. The wood itself has a lot of texture that doesn’t show in these pictures.
Funny you say that, I meant to do that but miss cut some of them and I would’ve had to remake 3 of the 4 panels to fix the mistake by the time I noticed. It has a golden pecan base stain with a whitewash over it.
A few magazines, candles, cups of coffee... stuff like this is the amount of weight this thing should be expected to have on it. It shouldn't easily rack under its own weight, and would need what would be considered excessive external force applied in context for a coffee table in order to rack.
I have a lot of dowels in the top miters and the bottom holds it together pretty well. The legs are only 17” tall so forces don’t travel in the sides too much before hitting the ground.
Yes. It’s 24” wide and I did two 12.5” inch sections so I could run it through my planer before glueing it up and cutting to final dimensions. I then made a massive crosscut sled to do the miters. Wish I would have spent more time getting the mitered aprons to line up but I needed to get this project out of my shop. I have a wedding coming up and needed to start other projects.
I know. nice idea with the oak btw. we are curently making our final exams as joiner apprentices... a friend of mine is making a cabinet out of different types of oak. I'll try to make a pic, maybe you can use it as reference \^\^
I feel the pictures make the corners appear sharper than they are. This whole project was hit with a restorer tool (basically a light wire wheel drum) and it dulled all the edges quite well.
Yeah I hear ya but I probably would have hit it with a 1/8" or 1/4" round over bit. With how solid it is, it's going to hurt quite a bit if you bump into it on the corners.
Beautiful work! If you’re going to stain this (which I don’t ever stain pine) remember to condition the wood before you buy the stain. Then finish as usual.
This actually has 2 stains on it in these pictures. One coat golden oak and one coat simply white. Goal was to even it out and look like natural white pine with a golden undertone. Missed on the undertone a bit but at least it’s pretty even coloring.
Do not have real plans but could send you some pictures of a google sketch up that I can blow apart and show all the pieces later tonight. I could also give some very good tips on what not to do lol.
Looks really good. Amazing that you found enough construction grade lumber that wasn't complete garbage.
Curious, why did you mitre the top joints but not the bottom? Aesthetics? Structural reasons?
I've been starting to collect pallets from work, which they are happy to have me take off their hands. Just got myself a planer and jointer, and am excited to see what I can turn that pallet wood into.
Right? And it’s not like this thing is some ridiculous design that adds a bunch of unnecessary weight. It’s a piece of solid wood furniture, would these people rather I build it out of foam core plywood or something?
Idk maybe they think beginner wood working is like, assembling IKEA furniture or something, I’ve seen coffee tables made out of solid concrete, nice furniture is generally heavier because it’s made from higher quality materials.
Anyway I’m in love with it, great work.
Looks great and you obviously spent some effort to make this as nice as possible. I hate to be a Debbie Downer but using "green wood" ie. wood with high moisture content like 2" x 4"s which can be as high as 19% can later split as it dries. There is a good chance this may happen in the future.
If the lumber was from somewhere where it had a few years to air dry sheltered it may not (like up in the rafters). But straight from Home Depot and it will be "green wood". Next time invest in and use kiln dried lumber which will be structurally stable as low as 4% Moisture Content.
I typically would be pretty nervous about 2x4 furniture but I searched high and low with ~ 10 trips to different Home Depot’s to find the right pieces that were both closer to~12% moisture and the correct grain orientation. On top of that I milled these and let them sit in my shop for a good while and barely saw any movement out of them. It could end up getting screwed by moving still though, only time will tell.
Home Depot sells kiln dried 2x4s just like every other home store does. I have made plenty of things out of them after jointing and planing them straight from the store with no problems at all.
Dimensional lumber is kiln dried to what’s called Surface Dry, or about 20% moisture content. It’s done to eliminate bugs in the wood.
It isn’t the same thing as kiln drying wood for woodworking which takes it down to 8% MC.
You have your opinion. I don't make furniture out of pine, and certainly not out of 2" x 4's. It is utility grade for me. If you think 2" x 4"s are dried to MC equal to Maple or Oak furniture grade then that's all I need to know.
I am a retired professional Cabinetmaker with 40+ years in this. I just trying to help out a few beginner guys here. I'm not going to get into a flame war with you. Do what you want.
But opinions are not the issue here, facts are. Home Depot sells kiln dried framing lumber. Thats an indisputable fact and the subject under discussion.
I honestly don't care what wood you make furniture out of or how long you have been doing it since that's entirely off topic, but if you're "just trying to help out a few beginner guys here," starting out with facts is going to go much farther towards that goal than misinformation will.
You obviously have some kind of need to feel right about everything so I won't continue with you. No doubt you carry your moisture meter everywhere.
Enjoy making your pine pie safes.
I typically only build out of hardwoods. Only used 2x4s on this to save on costs and the person I was making it for wanted pine. If I were to have built this for myself I’d of done quarter-sawn white oak. I discovered through this project I will not be working with 2x4s for anything other than garage shelves going forwards.
Seems weird to save money by using dimensional lumber, but then using so much of it that you could have built a table with nicer wood for the save dust that doesn't weigh like 500lbs.
This makes no sense. When someone pays you to build something for a certain price you use the wood that fits the price. It weighs max 120 pounds. If I used better wood it would be heavier.
Heh. Dude! I love me some language knowledge. You done schooled me right good! I ain't no boss, neither. It appears to be a subject of debate. I see contradictory sources. Thanks! I've found my rabbit hole for the day. 🍻
and it only weighs 2000 lbs. That looks like a rug, but OP actually just dropped that table on his cat.
It’s hollow under the top and bottom. It probably weighs closer to 125 based off my calculations. I could be off through. I just got this new jointer and after moving it out of my truck bed everything feels light. https://preview.redd.it/7lu5ogwehaad1.jpeg?width=5712&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1900905a3ff90ebe2f7960d631c283df66fdf056
How did you make it hollow?
Hollow probably wasn’t the right word. But it’s made with mitered aprons so the top and bottom are a little thinner than appeared.
Gotcha, I think
"Gotcha, I think" is how I mentally respond to almost every post on here as a newbie woodworker
No one got it but ok
The top and bottom are 1.25” thick with a mitered apron to make it appear 3.25” thick. If you look under the table top and bottom there is empty space. (I already delivered this piece or else I’d take some pictures to help convey what I’m trying to get at)
Just like making 2cm countertops seem thicker -- thickened edge.
Exactly.
What did you do for the base?
I really wish I took some pictures because I’m having a hard time coming up with an explanation in my head. It’s basically a 1.25” panel with a mitered apron that is what sits on the ground and notched around the side “aprons” if you will.
He didn't understand because he's an idiot everyone else got it
The downvotes are doing their job; you don't need to insult the person.
Someone needs to chill out. Easy boy.... this is just a Reddit thread of people who love woodworking. Just ask a question to clarify rather than go all agro.
Y'all trippin about my comment
I think it looks amazing OP
Nice jointer
Thank you. Pretty excited about it. Had a search alert set up for 4 months waiting to find the right one. Got this for $600 when I was expecting to pay closer to $1200 for an 8” long bed
Dang. That’s the nicest construction lumber piece of furniture I’ve ever seen. Make the next one in oak.
I was thinking the same, looks great! Where the hell did OP get construction lumber straight enough to make into something useable???
out of a planer
Ive been trying my hand at hand tools, but jeez a planer seems like the way to go if this can be the speedy results! Don’t tell Chris Schwarz I said that.
I don’t think he’d give you any grief, pretty sure he mentions early in Anarchists Tool Chest that he’s hung on to his planer and band saw. It’s nice to be able to use a hand plane and at the moment it’s all I’ve got but man it’d sure be nice to get a planer to help finish a project in less than six months!
So this is actually the thing that has really held me back. I've spent so much on tools including a stanley #5 hand planer but while I've had a small amount of success after following tutorials on sharpening, I just don't have time to hand plane and keep sharpening then more hand planing. But not planing is keeping me from actually making anything (or so I tell myself) because if I can't make a flat surface what am I even doing. Does a powered planer really fix this entirely? Does it make it pretty straight forward to just flatten a board? I've kind of just wondered if it isn't for me but I love the idea and the planning of a project but I have so much trouble with this basic aspect and I don't get it.
To get wood perfectly flat you would want both a jointer and a planer in most cases. I have just recently done two projects using 8/4 white oak that was to finish at 1.5" and ran the rough boards through the planer with no jointing to make it easier to rip into the widths I needed. Almost all came out shockingly flat but I would not count on that in most situations.
Ok, maybe I will just do it but my wife might kill me if I spend more in tools considering how little I've actually done lol. I've made only a small amount and if you consider the costs of the tools it's insane. I really do want to do it but the hand planing has me really dejected since I have only had minimal success. One night I thought I had it and I did see results but then it just didn't continue to work and I lost motivation.
I thought this was my comment as we seem to be in the same boat/mindset.
I don't understand how I'm doing it so wrong. Like I did finally have some success after buying a different honing guide and watching Matt azaela's(sp?) video 20 times for getting a hand plabe and that definitely helped a lot. But it still only seemed to work for a bit and didn't get it where I wanted to. I want to try again but I have kids a pretty demanding job and when I spend a long time trying something and seeing so little progress it's pretty defeating.
I've got a hand plane and a thickness planer. You still need to be able to flatten one side with the hand plane before running it through the thickness planer. But it does save a ton of time getting the board to thickness.
There are several videos about "stock preparation" on YouTube that show how to get parallel sides to a board using only a planer. The small trick is you need to make a "planer sled" / "jointer sled". And you also need shims and hot glue. But yes, you CAN get parallel faces using only a planer, with a little preparation and skill. I made a sweet table top out of 80-some little pieces of wood and I don't even have a planer. I used my table saw to get the pieces kind of straight, and then just used my table saw again to get them more straight. It's noisy, it's dusty, it creates a heck of a mound of sawdust / chips, but the results are there, fairly quickly.
Huh, so I have made a sled to make parallel sides but I didn't know you could make something that would flatten a board. I'll have to look that up thank you.
If you already made parallel sides, then you have made the jointer sled I was talking about. The next thing is to get a perpendicular face. You can do this with the same sled depending on the width of your board. If it's an inch thick and 10" wide it won't work. But it could work for 2x4s.
The boards are about 4-5 inches. I guess I just didn't realize you could flip something like that and cut it that way but I guess it makes sense. I need to look it up to see a visual I think but if I can do that it would be amazing. I just looked it up but it seems like I need one face to be flat which thinking about it makes much more sense. So I would need to get one side flat and then I could do this for the other side? Or is there a workaround
Duuuh
A lot of jointing and planing after ~10 trips to different Home Depot’s searching for the right pieces. It was insane how many 2x4’s contained the pith or were warped by an insane amount. I found the key was to find a Home Depot that just put out a fresh bundle and spend 30 minutes digging through it.
I tried that too. I found the straightest boards I could believe HD could have. Loaded them up and by the time I got home, they started to twist. Laid them flat, elevated in the garage. By the next morning the only thing I was able to make with it was corkscrews and abstract twisted art. lol
That’s why you buy 2x10’s and rip the edges off and use the pith for firewood.
Yeah, you want something like `#1 kiln dried doug fir` from a lumber yard, over generic 2x4 pine/fir from home depot, to make your life a lot easier. I pay about $6.50-$7.00 per 2x4x8' stick versus home depot charging about $4, but the difference in quality is huge. I can pull out the six or eight that I need from their stacks in a couple minutes, and after some time at home they're still mostly straight and mostly flat, whereas with home depot it would take me fifteen minutes or more to find some that aren't shit and then after two weeks at home they're all funny shapes.
I used milled 2x4’s when I made my dust collector stand “because why not”. Delaminating was a bit of an issue but overall it was a nice way to make cheap lumber look like less cheap lumber.
You would likely need to buy 6x6 posts to get a cross-section through the curves large enough to fashion a 2x4. This table must have cost a fortune.
My thoughts too. This is probably the nicest furniture I have seen made with dimensional lumber, at least recently. Actually planed and maybe jointed? Wow.
You can definitely graduate to /r/woodworking
I like this community better.
Same.
Bro that’s gotta weigh a fuck ton
I made a bench of similar size with 3/4 of the materials and it’s stupidly heavy
A metric fuck ton, actually
If you had asked me if you should do that, I would have emphatically said "NO!", but I'm totally stunned by how good that looks! The finish you put on it is at least partly what makes it look so professional... what is that?
Golden pecan stain with a whitewash over it. The actual finish is a flat water based polyurethane.
What did you use for the whitewash?
Just an oil based mini wax in simply white. I found the key was to do small sections overlapping a bit and to rub it in with a scotch maroon colored pad and remove the excess with a scotch white pad. It made the coloring come out a lot more even than applying with a rag.
Thanks for the response. How long did you wait after the stain to apply poly?
72 hours
Oh wow. Need to work on my patience, haha. Thanks. I've been messing with pine a lot because it's cheap and I like how your finish turned out.
If you use an oil based poly you can get away with finishing sooner after applying stain. It’s best to wait it out when applying anything water based over and oil based product. I usually push the limits on wait time in woodworking but luckily I had some other stuff going on that prevented me from being in the shop.
Nice dog you got there
Thank you. My dust collector broke during this project and I found out she loves to lay in piles of wood shavings from the planer / jointer.
I thought they were spots at first lol.
Whose doesn't? White dogs like to lay in the mud, black dogs like to roll in flour, too.
Damn nice job! I worked up a farmhouse coffee table a few years back out of HD pine lumber. Completely impossible without a planer. Just watch the corners on the soft wood. I rounded mine so they wouldn’t get dented and marred so easily.
I thought about rounding everything off. I kinda like the thought of the wear and tear a piece of furniture goes through showing on a more “rustic” piece like this. If this was built to be more of a modern look I would have put more effort into the edges.
Definetly gives it nice character. Because I went with the pre-aged farmhouse look, I rounded, but sanded it down more in certain areas. Worst case, if the dings look bad, sand them down to look more work than damaged. Pine is easy like that. Here’s the link to the coffee table I did. It definetly shows wear given its line, but I agree with the character. https://www.reddit.com/r/BeginnerWoodWorking/s/mqepKALOpF
Great looking project! The darker color of yours probably shows wear a bit different than this light color as well. If you look closely there is a lot more dings and nicks on my project than the pictures show. I also used a Restorer tool that is basically a light wire wheel to dig out the soft grain and leave the hard grain higher. The wood itself has a lot of texture that doesn’t show in these pictures.
Top design and clean work! Watch out for the sharp corners though. Hit my shin on a similar corner and saw the entire big bang flash before me.
I would miter the bottom outer 2x4's for a complete mitered look! Looks cool, are you going to stain it still?
Funny you say that, I meant to do that but miss cut some of them and I would’ve had to remake 3 of the 4 panels to fix the mistake by the time I noticed. It has a golden pecan base stain with a whitewash over it.
Way to go, looks amazing! I think you have a future career or side hustle making furniture
Need to see it with coffee on it to evaluate properly 😑 Just kidding looks great!
Unfortunately it was built for someone else so no coffee on there:/
My only recommendation would be to add a sheet of glass, pine is very soft and will show every ding and dent. Otherwise, excellent work! 😳😅
A few dents add a little character! It has 3 coats of a water based polyurethane on there, hoping that does a decent job protecting it
clean af man holy
Noob here, how do you prevent racking in this design?
Thicc
A few magazines, candles, cups of coffee... stuff like this is the amount of weight this thing should be expected to have on it. It shouldn't easily rack under its own weight, and would need what would be considered excessive external force applied in context for a coffee table in order to rack.
Tell me you don’t have kids without telling me you don’t have kids.
I have a lot of dowels in the top miters and the bottom holds it together pretty well. The legs are only 17” tall so forces don’t travel in the sides too much before hitting the ground.
Thanks.
I love it!
looks very, very neat and well executed. i'm a little jealous.
Good use of the material
The combination of shadow and carpet speckles make it look unreal.
Thank you.
Wife made the same dupe. Designer one goes for like 800 bucks or something.
That is correct! Took this on as a project to gain experience and let it go for well under half of what the pottery barn piece goes for.
Dude- hands down the nicest “lumber” piece I’ve seen. The finish is GOLDEN! Kudos!
Those legs looks sturdy.
How did you secure the pieces together?
A lot of dowels and creative clamping. The bottom is attached with threaded inserts with oversized holes to allow separate expansion/ contraction.
Wowzers. Awesome work.
Beautiful job
Did you laminate each panel and then assemble?
Yes. It’s 24” wide and I did two 12.5” inch sections so I could run it through my planer before glueing it up and cutting to final dimensions. I then made a massive crosscut sled to do the miters. Wish I would have spent more time getting the mitered aprons to line up but I needed to get this project out of my shop. I have a wedding coming up and needed to start other projects.
Looks great!
Nice work! Kinda sad that it has so many Knotholes but hey, it's made from Konstruktion timber... So what did ya expect XD
Agreed, but this was the wood that fit the budget of the project. Thinking of making a larger version out of white oak for myself.
I know. nice idea with the oak btw. we are curently making our final exams as joiner apprentices... a friend of mine is making a cabinet out of different types of oak. I'll try to make a pic, maybe you can use it as reference \^\^
The minimalist aesthetic and functionality is nice. I would have eased the corners quite a bit more, though.
I feel the pictures make the corners appear sharper than they are. This whole project was hit with a restorer tool (basically a light wire wheel drum) and it dulled all the edges quite well.
Yeah I hear ya but I probably would have hit it with a 1/8" or 1/4" round over bit. With how solid it is, it's going to hurt quite a bit if you bump into it on the corners.
I smell dominoes
I ain’t got domino money. I’ve got Chinese doweling jig money.
Lmao love the honesty
This is beautiful
Nicest piece of work I've seen out of dimensional lumber!
You made construction lumber elegant. Ace!
What planer do you have?
Just a WEN 13” spiral head. Nothing special but hoping to upgrade soon. Just got. 78” long bed jointer so I may need a nice planer to match it soon.
Great job and such a good looking pointer back there.
Thank you. Probably should get a new rug that does match my dogs coat…
A bit more ticking, and it would look like you have a pointer rug...
Beautiful work! If you’re going to stain this (which I don’t ever stain pine) remember to condition the wood before you buy the stain. Then finish as usual.
This actually has 2 stains on it in these pictures. One coat golden oak and one coat simply white. Goal was to even it out and look like natural white pine with a golden undertone. Missed on the undertone a bit but at least it’s pretty even coloring.
That's gotta weigh half a TON!
Looks great! I’m making one from construction lumber too, but it’s a Japanese stool style.
With the right care and finish you can make construction lumber look great!
Nice work!
Nice
I really like this design. I might have a go at making it myself. Do you have plans?
Do not have real plans but could send you some pictures of a google sketch up that I can blow apart and show all the pieces later tonight. I could also give some very good tips on what not to do lol.
That would be really nice of you! I appreciate your assistance if it’s not too much work
Awesome work! Thanks for sharing and explaining your process! Looks great!
Best looking 2x4 furniture I’ve seen yet!
This looks amazing
Looks really good. Amazing that you found enough construction grade lumber that wasn't complete garbage. Curious, why did you mitre the top joints but not the bottom? Aesthetics? Structural reasons?
I messed up and was too far in and would have had to remake the side panels. Didn’t have time to go back and fix it at that point
At $3 per 2x4 you can afford to pick out the best parts of the best ones.
Ive to to say for it being made out of 2b4 it look stunning and good job on the finish
I like it!!
Nice!
That’s gorgeous!
The animal hide is a fucken sexy touch!
I've been starting to collect pallets from work, which they are happy to have me take off their hands. Just got myself a planer and jointer, and am excited to see what I can turn that pallet wood into.
A lot of haters in here mad that your furniture, *checks notes* weighs a lot.
Right? And it’s not like this thing is some ridiculous design that adds a bunch of unnecessary weight. It’s a piece of solid wood furniture, would these people rather I build it out of foam core plywood or something?
Idk maybe they think beginner wood working is like, assembling IKEA furniture or something, I’ve seen coffee tables made out of solid concrete, nice furniture is generally heavier because it’s made from higher quality materials. Anyway I’m in love with it, great work.
I think it looks great. Simple, sturdy, and clean. Keeping the natural look? Or planning on staining in the future?
Is that a German Shorthair Pointer in the background? Great dogs!
It is. She’s a mess but a great dog! Wish I caught a full picture of her in the background. She’s in heat right now and wearing diapers.
We have two and they are wonderful dogs. They are smart, energetic and great with kids. But they need lots of exercise with that hunting instinct.
Nice
How long did you have those 2x4's before making this? (did you let them stabilize and work off their fresh from the saw mill moisture?)
Looks great and you obviously spent some effort to make this as nice as possible. I hate to be a Debbie Downer but using "green wood" ie. wood with high moisture content like 2" x 4"s which can be as high as 19% can later split as it dries. There is a good chance this may happen in the future. If the lumber was from somewhere where it had a few years to air dry sheltered it may not (like up in the rafters). But straight from Home Depot and it will be "green wood". Next time invest in and use kiln dried lumber which will be structurally stable as low as 4% Moisture Content.
I typically would be pretty nervous about 2x4 furniture but I searched high and low with ~ 10 trips to different Home Depot’s to find the right pieces that were both closer to~12% moisture and the correct grain orientation. On top of that I milled these and let them sit in my shop for a good while and barely saw any movement out of them. It could end up getting screwed by moving still though, only time will tell.
Home Depot sells kiln dried 2x4s just like every other home store does. I have made plenty of things out of them after jointing and planing them straight from the store with no problems at all.
Whatever works for you
Yes, kiln dried wood works fine for me and for woodworkers in general. That's why construction lumber is dried.
Dimensional lumber is kiln dried to what’s called Surface Dry, or about 20% moisture content. It’s done to eliminate bugs in the wood. It isn’t the same thing as kiln drying wood for woodworking which takes it down to 8% MC.
You have your opinion. I don't make furniture out of pine, and certainly not out of 2" x 4's. It is utility grade for me. If you think 2" x 4"s are dried to MC equal to Maple or Oak furniture grade then that's all I need to know. I am a retired professional Cabinetmaker with 40+ years in this. I just trying to help out a few beginner guys here. I'm not going to get into a flame war with you. Do what you want.
But opinions are not the issue here, facts are. Home Depot sells kiln dried framing lumber. Thats an indisputable fact and the subject under discussion. I honestly don't care what wood you make furniture out of or how long you have been doing it since that's entirely off topic, but if you're "just trying to help out a few beginner guys here," starting out with facts is going to go much farther towards that goal than misinformation will.
You obviously have some kind of need to feel right about everything so I won't continue with you. No doubt you carry your moisture meter everywhere. Enjoy making your pine pie safes.
I do greatly enjoy making them. Is that supposed to be some sort of insult?
Find a hardwood supplier. You’ll save tons of time on the next project with wood better than 2x4s
I typically only build out of hardwoods. Only used 2x4s on this to save on costs and the person I was making it for wanted pine. If I were to have built this for myself I’d of done quarter-sawn white oak. I discovered through this project I will not be working with 2x4s for anything other than garage shelves going forwards.
That's the best 2x build I've seen yet
Seems weird to save money by using dimensional lumber, but then using so much of it that you could have built a table with nicer wood for the save dust that doesn't weigh like 500lbs.
This makes no sense. When someone pays you to build something for a certain price you use the wood that fits the price. It weighs max 120 pounds. If I used better wood it would be heavier.
the contrast between the beauty of the piece and the hideousness of the rug is very entertaining
Thank you for your opinion.
Cool project! Apostrophes are not used to make nouns plural.
Apostrophes are used to make a number, symbol, or letter plural. Gonna need your grammar nazi license, boss.
Heh. Dude! I love me some language knowledge. You done schooled me right good! I ain't no boss, neither. It appears to be a subject of debate. I see contradictory sources. Thanks! I've found my rabbit hole for the day. 🍻