I’m using a Singer Heavy Duty, but before that I was using a Wal-Mart special Brother that was $80. Used it for 20 years and only just traded up this year. The one I have now wasn’t bad either, $220. There’s a learning curve to sewing small, but honestly these days I would struggle more with making a set of curtains than I would making a set of flannel pajamas for a doll. Haha.
I do have some info for you that might help right away. The first thing is that it's easier to learn on quilting cotton than it is on jersey, if you're using flimsy stuff right from the jump you can lose it in the feet, but this happens less once you have some hours under your belt. Use extra fine needles like these: [https://a.co/d/9vvI0Jw](https://a.co/d/9vvI0Jw)
Adjust the tension and the stitch length on your machine, I use the tightest tension and I use a 2 for stitch length. I sew with 1/4" seam allowances, which is to the right hand edge of your presser foot. If you're working with really really small pieces and you are smashing your fingers (OW!) get yourself a small hemostat to feed with instead, they're great for turning pieces right side out and forming corners with too. One of the other tools I never would have thought I needed was to upgrade my sewing pins to silk pins (I.e. pins meant for sewing silk) they are smaller and sharper and will damage those little pieces much less. Never sleep on ironing, and soak your pieces before ironing for the best results. If you end up buying any of MoshiMoshi Studios' wonderful patterns she will show you a trick on how to make the neatest, best gathers you have ever seen and give you a foundation for seamless finishing.
I’ve heard a lot of good things about the Heavy Duty machine and was wondering if it would struggle for little pieces, thank you for your answer!
I’m used to industrial machines( thanks to fashion school) so I have a little hard time with the little home ones
https://preview.redd.it/57ejm72f7e7d1.jpeg?width=2048&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ae85938880bec22125671358635cea30a4807f3f
Here’s something I made on my Wal-Mart special from a $1.99 fat quarter of quilting cotton. :)
https://preview.redd.it/cpem1nfice7d1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3888a78ab436f500dba7bfc801fac361fdc68a91
Can get little bitty seams on it. But with enough practice you could achieve this on several kinds of machines.
My machine is way too fancy for what I do because it also does computerized embroidery so it has huge feed dogs.
I'm also interested in what machine others are using.
I sometimes sew 1/8 seams and topstitch a lot.
It's also good to learn to use interfacing and even paper to help sew small.
I switch to my straight stitch plate if pieces are really tiny.
It's also good to have a header piece of throwaway fabric (like what you use when chain stitching patchwork).
I also like using That Purple Thang sewing tool a lot!
Thanks everyone who replies and shares!
I have several Bernina machines and my biggest tip is to use a straight stitch foot that is really thin and just has a single hole space for stitching.
I also fray stop all edges of the pieces so it has a little more stability.
With some delicate fabrics I just do a hand stitch.
I use a vintage Bernina 830 record most of the time. I just sewed some dolly stockings with it, which is about the ultimate test. Did great!
Ok, I've got a guide on my website about picking a sewing machine for doll clothes here: [https://raddollclothes.com/blogs/news/materials-monday-sewing-machines-for-doll-stuff](https://raddollclothes.com/blogs/news/materials-monday-sewing-machines-for-doll-stuff)
But I do find that older, straight stitch or zigzag stitch machines that do NOT have a wide setting (so max 4 mm wide stitch, not 5-6 like many modern machines) do better because the hole in the throat plate is smaller. The bigger the hole, the easier it is for the needle to push delicate fabric down instead of piercing the fabric.
Plus the usual 'make sure you're using a sharp needle of the right kind' stuff.
I use a vintage Elna grasshopper, similar to a featherweight in size and it does tiny straight stitches very well. It also has a gear reducer (meant for slowing the machine down while darning) and I find when sewing tiny slower can help. A straight stitch throat plate (also sometimes called a silk plate) can also help with tiny sewing, it has a hole just bigger than the needle instead of the slit that accommodates zig zag stitching so helps to keep your fabric from being sucked in to the underside.
And with any machine when it starts being a bitch make sure it's threaded correctly, try a new needle, and make sure to clean and oil your bobbin race regularly.
I’m using a Singer Heavy Duty, but before that I was using a Wal-Mart special Brother that was $80. Used it for 20 years and only just traded up this year. The one I have now wasn’t bad either, $220. There’s a learning curve to sewing small, but honestly these days I would struggle more with making a set of curtains than I would making a set of flannel pajamas for a doll. Haha.
I do have some info for you that might help right away. The first thing is that it's easier to learn on quilting cotton than it is on jersey, if you're using flimsy stuff right from the jump you can lose it in the feet, but this happens less once you have some hours under your belt. Use extra fine needles like these: [https://a.co/d/9vvI0Jw](https://a.co/d/9vvI0Jw) Adjust the tension and the stitch length on your machine, I use the tightest tension and I use a 2 for stitch length. I sew with 1/4" seam allowances, which is to the right hand edge of your presser foot. If you're working with really really small pieces and you are smashing your fingers (OW!) get yourself a small hemostat to feed with instead, they're great for turning pieces right side out and forming corners with too. One of the other tools I never would have thought I needed was to upgrade my sewing pins to silk pins (I.e. pins meant for sewing silk) they are smaller and sharper and will damage those little pieces much less. Never sleep on ironing, and soak your pieces before ironing for the best results. If you end up buying any of MoshiMoshi Studios' wonderful patterns she will show you a trick on how to make the neatest, best gathers you have ever seen and give you a foundation for seamless finishing.
I’ve heard a lot of good things about the Heavy Duty machine and was wondering if it would struggle for little pieces, thank you for your answer! I’m used to industrial machines( thanks to fashion school) so I have a little hard time with the little home ones
https://preview.redd.it/57ejm72f7e7d1.jpeg?width=2048&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ae85938880bec22125671358635cea30a4807f3f Here’s something I made on my Wal-Mart special from a $1.99 fat quarter of quilting cotton. :)
It’s so pretty omg I love it, can’t imagine the time and precision that it took🫠
I use a Singer Featherweight. Old school, but it's simple, smooth, and isn't too bulky to where it gets in the way of seeing the little seams.
https://preview.redd.it/c3nx3x7sbe7d1.jpeg?width=764&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=195f2cc97b000657dd04cd46f9de490b4770911e Jeans made on it
https://preview.redd.it/d3ecdm7ube7d1.jpeg?width=886&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fe9236170d91474acd089bab3883f2401f0d95ce Dresses made on it
https://preview.redd.it/cpem1nfice7d1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3888a78ab436f500dba7bfc801fac361fdc68a91 Can get little bitty seams on it. But with enough practice you could achieve this on several kinds of machines.
My machine is way too fancy for what I do because it also does computerized embroidery so it has huge feed dogs. I'm also interested in what machine others are using. I sometimes sew 1/8 seams and topstitch a lot. It's also good to learn to use interfacing and even paper to help sew small. I switch to my straight stitch plate if pieces are really tiny. It's also good to have a header piece of throwaway fabric (like what you use when chain stitching patchwork). I also like using That Purple Thang sewing tool a lot! Thanks everyone who replies and shares!
I have several Bernina machines and my biggest tip is to use a straight stitch foot that is really thin and just has a single hole space for stitching. I also fray stop all edges of the pieces so it has a little more stability. With some delicate fabrics I just do a hand stitch.
I use a vintage Bernina 830 record most of the time. I just sewed some dolly stockings with it, which is about the ultimate test. Did great! Ok, I've got a guide on my website about picking a sewing machine for doll clothes here: [https://raddollclothes.com/blogs/news/materials-monday-sewing-machines-for-doll-stuff](https://raddollclothes.com/blogs/news/materials-monday-sewing-machines-for-doll-stuff) But I do find that older, straight stitch or zigzag stitch machines that do NOT have a wide setting (so max 4 mm wide stitch, not 5-6 like many modern machines) do better because the hole in the throat plate is smaller. The bigger the hole, the easier it is for the needle to push delicate fabric down instead of piercing the fabric. Plus the usual 'make sure you're using a sharp needle of the right kind' stuff.
I use a vintage Elna grasshopper, similar to a featherweight in size and it does tiny straight stitches very well. It also has a gear reducer (meant for slowing the machine down while darning) and I find when sewing tiny slower can help. A straight stitch throat plate (also sometimes called a silk plate) can also help with tiny sewing, it has a hole just bigger than the needle instead of the slit that accommodates zig zag stitching so helps to keep your fabric from being sucked in to the underside. And with any machine when it starts being a bitch make sure it's threaded correctly, try a new needle, and make sure to clean and oil your bobbin race regularly.