My buddy has a lift… realistically how much of a pain in the ass and how much time to get to the turbos? At 133k almost and if I’m in there doing dps might as well throw in fresh snails while I’m there
if its the both of you guys and you know what you’re doing, then i’d say in about 3 hours you’ll be good to go. the pain in the bung really comes from not having a lift. that’s a good idea but at that mileage, i’d recommend to replace the water pump and thermostat while you’re there if you haven’t already. if you plan to do a walnut blast, you can use an oven cleaner. WORKS WONDERS. harbor freight sells a great engine support bar that will do you justice if you decide to replace your oil pan gasket as well. The bolts for the oil pan gasket are TTY aluminum 1 time use only bolts jsyk.
Thankfully she was blasted about 40k ago so I think she’ll be alright but I’ll take a look when I do it… my main concern was just down time for the car… doing it in a day would be nice… thanks for the insight, will definitely throw a pump and thermostat at it while I’m in there
yeah, if you guys start early and have everything needed such as an installation kit, then i’m sure you’d be fine. One thing to look out for is having both vacuum hoses for the wastegates. not a problem at all, boss man. ecstuning offers a kit that brings all the hardware, including a very nice silicone aluminized water pump hose that’s very sturdy. best of luck to you and hope this link is of some help.
[Ultimate Water Pump And Thermostat Kit](https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assembled-by-ecs-parts/water-pump-and-thermostat-kit/11517632426kt10/)
it’d be a great idea to get yourself the billet oil thermostat from Mosselman but make sure your kit comes with the necessary hardware such as the gaskets and bolts. you may have to order those separately. also would be nice practice to get yourself a can of BG MOA to strengthen your new oil.
Also try and find all the torque specs and torque pattern so you’re not scrambling at the last minute.
i used the ones that came with the kit. interesting that you mention that because so did these but i didn’t want to put the original ones back on and void the warranty per say. so i started reading about the restrictive oil feed lines and it’s there to limit the oil flow, reducing the windage created from excess oil draining past the rotating assembly on ball bearing turbos.
Yeah I've bought them too with 19t turbos but not sure if the restrictor is needed as the 19t aren't ball bearing. On single turbos I've used restrictors before, but not sure for twins. Hope all's good with yours!
you’re absolutely correct on that. i should’ve clarified that these twin turbos are dual ceramic ball bearing as opposed to journals. nonetheless, thank you and likewise!
Nice! I have same clutch and also opted for the organic disks. Pedal feel is only slightly heavier than stock and can confirm it is very streetable. I also did the work myself over 2 weekends in my garage using quickjacks.
gees! props to you for getting it done because that’s no walk in the park. it is indeed a very nice clutch for the street with only a slight chatter. is your setup a 6 or 8 bolt?
Yeah the job is fairly straightforward tbh, but it's challenging to do by yourself. Thank God for the harbor freight trans jack and ALL the socket extensions for those annoying bell housing bolts. I have an 8 bolt (car is MY07).
yeah i agree, 100%. it can get time consuming get in and out of action to grab some tools. but yes! harbor freight can be your best friend for these kind of builds. that’s awesome, so is mine!
Tight what was the bill/hours
appreciate you boss man, we got it done in my pops garage as he has a lift.
My buddy has a lift… realistically how much of a pain in the ass and how much time to get to the turbos? At 133k almost and if I’m in there doing dps might as well throw in fresh snails while I’m there
if its the both of you guys and you know what you’re doing, then i’d say in about 3 hours you’ll be good to go. the pain in the bung really comes from not having a lift. that’s a good idea but at that mileage, i’d recommend to replace the water pump and thermostat while you’re there if you haven’t already. if you plan to do a walnut blast, you can use an oven cleaner. WORKS WONDERS. harbor freight sells a great engine support bar that will do you justice if you decide to replace your oil pan gasket as well. The bolts for the oil pan gasket are TTY aluminum 1 time use only bolts jsyk.
Thankfully she was blasted about 40k ago so I think she’ll be alright but I’ll take a look when I do it… my main concern was just down time for the car… doing it in a day would be nice… thanks for the insight, will definitely throw a pump and thermostat at it while I’m in there
yeah, if you guys start early and have everything needed such as an installation kit, then i’m sure you’d be fine. One thing to look out for is having both vacuum hoses for the wastegates. not a problem at all, boss man. ecstuning offers a kit that brings all the hardware, including a very nice silicone aluminized water pump hose that’s very sturdy. best of luck to you and hope this link is of some help. [Ultimate Water Pump And Thermostat Kit](https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assembled-by-ecs-parts/water-pump-and-thermostat-kit/11517632426kt10/)
I’m getting my turbos done soon- is there anything else you recommend?
Chiming in on this. V-band clamps. One of mine broke when I took them off.
Cool thank you
it’d be a great idea to get yourself the billet oil thermostat from Mosselman but make sure your kit comes with the necessary hardware such as the gaskets and bolts. you may have to order those separately. also would be nice practice to get yourself a can of BG MOA to strengthen your new oil. Also try and find all the torque specs and torque pattern so you’re not scrambling at the last minute.
Oh neptune
What oil lines did you use? I saw some that loomed the same on eBay but they had a restrictor on the feed
i used the ones that came with the kit. interesting that you mention that because so did these but i didn’t want to put the original ones back on and void the warranty per say. so i started reading about the restrictive oil feed lines and it’s there to limit the oil flow, reducing the windage created from excess oil draining past the rotating assembly on ball bearing turbos.
Yeah I've bought them too with 19t turbos but not sure if the restrictor is needed as the 19t aren't ball bearing. On single turbos I've used restrictors before, but not sure for twins. Hope all's good with yours!
you’re absolutely correct on that. i should’ve clarified that these twin turbos are dual ceramic ball bearing as opposed to journals. nonetheless, thank you and likewise!
Nice! I have same clutch and also opted for the organic disks. Pedal feel is only slightly heavier than stock and can confirm it is very streetable. I also did the work myself over 2 weekends in my garage using quickjacks.
gees! props to you for getting it done because that’s no walk in the park. it is indeed a very nice clutch for the street with only a slight chatter. is your setup a 6 or 8 bolt?
Yeah the job is fairly straightforward tbh, but it's challenging to do by yourself. Thank God for the harbor freight trans jack and ALL the socket extensions for those annoying bell housing bolts. I have an 8 bolt (car is MY07).
yeah i agree, 100%. it can get time consuming get in and out of action to grab some tools. but yes! harbor freight can be your best friend for these kind of builds. that’s awesome, so is mine!
that's some nice fabrication, looking forward to see more of it (:
i appreciate you, will definitely share more along the way : )