U know the thin wax coatings that you spray on car surfaces? Try that. Makes the kit have more of a slippery surface. But the wax helps keep the finger prints at bay. But do test em on runners before hand. It might not be just was and other additives may be in the spray. The wax spray makes a realy subtle surface so no matter how much u man handle it the finger prints become less prominent
Glad i could share some of my experience. My first gold coating was the phenex mg and holy hell if u transform it. Then you gotta wipe it down. And god all mighty woulda said the same thing and said fk it.
Hope you have good results. Hoping u do an update
On my wish list there’s also the mg Rise Cain, but now I’m so not sure about it…
Once I manage to get the wax and try it out I will update 100%. Thanks again!
Barbados Rex's video on gold chrome touch-ups might be worth a watch: [https://youtu.be/40oayhIBLkc](https://youtu.be/40oayhIBLkc) .
TL;DR- metallic gold tape will probably best match this kind of finish.
One way I’ve seen is use a tiny amount of thinner to remove the gold coating off the runners with a paintbrush and then transfer that onto the nub marks. It will be exactly the same shade since it’s from the runner. You can practice on the runners until you get comfortable enough to do it on the model.
Quick update for anyone interested.
I just tried out Mr. Hobby premium topcoat gloss on a runner and looks like we have a winner! In the next days I’ll disassemble the kit, give the parts a good clean (wearing gloves lol), topcoat and hopefully the decals. I will post the result when it’s done!
Thanks for all your inputs guys. Great community as always
I made the mistake of doing the MG God Gundam Hyper Mode without gloves, big mistake. The first thing I did before my 2nd plated build was buy a box of latex gloves. They make a world of difference. Plus, if you ever paint your kits, they work wonders for keeping hands clean
You can protect the coating by wearing gloves.
Delpi decals will stick to the coating. I used them on my Raise Cain and they stay on great without setter, softer, or clear coat.
I know it's a waste, but I'd strip the coating\* and spray it gold myself.
\*I'm assuming the part about needing to strip. I've only sprayed gold on the normal HG plastic.
This plus the car wax tip further up the thread. Like with mini painting, you’re most likely interacting with it on a regular daily basis around 3-5 ft away; a good pose, a small touch-up, and a step back can really highlight a “botched” model.
The 3-5 ft thing is real. I have been waiting to topcoat my two latest kits until I’ve had them out and posed for a couple weeks so I can decide if they’re done or not. Really helps to get your mind out of the imperfection finding mode that working up close for so long can cause.
At this cost it's better to buy a new standard HG kit & work on it.
That should even cut you the cost of paint stripping solvent.
Plated kits are meant for straight builds & leave as they are.
I will say that it's honestly hard to tell at a distance. I had similar issues with my HG Phenex but you can't really see these issues now that its up in a glass case. You gotta get your face right up on the thing like a foot away to start to notice finger prints and other issues.
give this is the reflective metallic coat, I *think* a good enough gloss coat should be fine and preserve it. but I'd defer to someone that has a kit like this or the phenex and could comment with authority. I know you can't top coat the satin finish of the MG 2.0 without messing it up but the metallic gloss should be different.
Maybe only slightly, especially if you use a water base acrylic topcoat like Pledge Floor Gloss (if you can find it, as it's been discontinued), or Alclad Aqua Gloss?
Well maybe not if you use a gloss coat....
But wouldn't less shine be better?
I mean with that you might serconvent your dust and fingerprint issue as well...
Also with a diferent shine it might actually look metalick gold, and not plastick goldXD
Yeah honestly. I don’t care how garish or cheap people think it looks, I’ll take gold injection plastic material over this gilded and glittery crap any-day. At least with the other stuff, it won’t chip or scratch if you look at the wrong way.
Easiest way is probably to wear a glove before handling any gold-coats. Personally not a fan of any gold coated kit so I never bought any of them. And probably won't.
Dang, I don't think my old HG that was chromed by default gets that dirty.
https://preview.redd.it/2fwg13u4057d1.png?width=1440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3c687975cc824eb6c71722ac7b07068eeaddfd88
Or not. Been on a shelf for awhile.
Clear yellow might help with the damaged parts since I think that's what bandai uses in the first place. You should be able to use waterslides without setting fluid or try Vallejos since it should be water based
Not to mention they can become brittle too. I got the gold Phenex and when I finally got the Naritive and was trying to pose them together, the Phenex fell over onto it’s side and one of the tails broke from a freaking 3 inch fall… tried to glue it but the glue ruins the finish so I had to repaint the glued section of the tail…
First and last chromed kit I plan to get…
That’s why I stay away from special coating kits unless I know it’s under-gated. The best thing to do to get a kit like this is honestly just painting it yourself. It’s a lot more work but the results will be so much better
You can just put the water slides on without the setter you know... They're not like the awful ones Games Workshop makes where they wont even sit on flat surfaces right without extra chemicals
Try madworks (tool brand name) wax polishing compound to polish gold plated kits.
They have tutorials but it's in taiwanese, but i think they have subtitles in English.
It’s a wrong purchase because u didn’t research much yet mate 🥲. Unfortunately. I also learned it the hard way on iron blooded coating hg lupus rex. Was highlighting the marker and then i pooled it and decided to wipe with alcohol/ thinner and it took the coat away.
Setter/softener will most likely ruin it as always as this coat is normally quite weak. Not sure if unless u clear coat it after the build tho?
mg hyaku shiki ver 2.0 isnt as shiny as this one, if u do want something as shiny as this one id say the hyaku shiki raise cain is a good one but its based off a gundam build fighters one not the og one
Your experience with the decals gives me concern over my own kit. It's already assembled and sitting pretty in a box, but since it's far back in the queue for decals I haven't gotten to it yet. Now I'm nervous about needing to test coats before starting the decals so I don't accidentally damage the finish.
What happened is that I put the first water decal on the shoulder and damn it was bad. You could see perfectly the outline, line it was a crappy sticker. I then decided to remove it just to find out the the setter left a good mark on the coating, and around the area strakes from drying the setter with the cue tip… So yeah, do some testing too! If I manage to solve the issue I will make an update for sure
Thanks! I'll keep an eye out. I'm glad I saved some of my runners specifically to do testing on. I feel much better about abusing those than the kit itself. I'm sorry you've had a rough experience with it, it's honestly a beautiful kit
Never understood these gold gundam .. always thought they looked like they’d be best displayed on a Donald Trump toilet .. or in said toilet .. pointiest parts posed upwards just waiting for that criminally convicted posterior ..
Btw, the mg isn’t much better so if you intend to grab one of those, uh, you’ve been warned.
Was the second kit I ever did, hated seeing every cut leave an ugly mark on the gold and having to keep wiping prints.
It is, I don't know what happened with that other guy's build, but other than some slight edges where the undergate might show, it's all undergated on the gold runners and looks great. It's one of my favorite kits ever and I never top coated or painted it or anything.
The issue you ran into with the decals and the setter/softener dissolving the gold surface will happen on the MG too though, I ended up just using the stickers sparingly as well as the dry transfer decals which work well. But water slides, only use those on the non-gold plastic like the red of the feet or the blue torso. Just a heads up if you do buy that kit
That’s pretty annoying damn, I will test how it goes using only water and skipping the setter… But I feel that the outline won’t be solvable.
I love using all the decals on the sheet!
The retail Hyaku Shiki revive looks like it has gold parts undergated but it looks like some parts don't have proper gates and I dislike placing gates in curved pieces or on prominent display like with IBO gundams.
U know the thin wax coatings that you spray on car surfaces? Try that. Makes the kit have more of a slippery surface. But the wax helps keep the finger prints at bay. But do test em on runners before hand. It might not be just was and other additives may be in the spray. The wax spray makes a realy subtle surface so no matter how much u man handle it the finger prints become less prominent
That’s actually a great idea, I will try it out on the runners
Glad i could share some of my experience. My first gold coating was the phenex mg and holy hell if u transform it. Then you gotta wipe it down. And god all mighty woulda said the same thing and said fk it. Hope you have good results. Hoping u do an update
On my wish list there’s also the mg Rise Cain, but now I’m so not sure about it… Once I manage to get the wax and try it out I will update 100%. Thanks again!
Yea I’d try all chemical stuff n runners first. Nvr know how some stuff reacts
What about those expensive ceramic coatings they use for cars now?
never tried those but since those kits like the hyaku shiki is a coat rather than a paint maybe the adhesion would work differently?...
“Test on runners beforehand”. This is the single greatest piece of advice in all of Gunpla😂
Yep shiny kits need gloves. Metallic markers can help mask the nubs, but it can be difficult to color match
Yeah, I tried with my gold marker but it’s not the same shade…
Barbados Rex's video on gold chrome touch-ups might be worth a watch: [https://youtu.be/40oayhIBLkc](https://youtu.be/40oayhIBLkc) . TL;DR- metallic gold tape will probably best match this kind of finish.
Thanks! I’ll take a look!
The man puts in the work on his metallics, for sure.
One way I’ve seen is use a tiny amount of thinner to remove the gold coating off the runners with a paintbrush and then transfer that onto the nub marks. It will be exactly the same shade since it’s from the runner. You can practice on the runners until you get comfortable enough to do it on the model.
Quick update for anyone interested. I just tried out Mr. Hobby premium topcoat gloss on a runner and looks like we have a winner! In the next days I’ll disassemble the kit, give the parts a good clean (wearing gloves lol), topcoat and hopefully the decals. I will post the result when it’s done! Thanks for all your inputs guys. Great community as always
Nice!
I did an older MG hyaku shiki and I used latex gloves while making it.
I can see why!!
I made the mistake of doing the MG God Gundam Hyper Mode without gloves, big mistake. The first thing I did before my 2nd plated build was buy a box of latex gloves. They make a world of difference. Plus, if you ever paint your kits, they work wonders for keeping hands clean
You can protect the coating by wearing gloves. Delpi decals will stick to the coating. I used them on my Raise Cain and they stay on great without setter, softer, or clear coat.
I know it's a waste, but I'd strip the coating\* and spray it gold myself. \*I'm assuming the part about needing to strip. I've only sprayed gold on the normal HG plastic.
Or maybe just put it on a shelf and see if you even notice the imperfections from a distance.
This plus the car wax tip further up the thread. Like with mini painting, you’re most likely interacting with it on a regular daily basis around 3-5 ft away; a good pose, a small touch-up, and a step back can really highlight a “botched” model.
The 3-5 ft thing is real. I have been waiting to topcoat my two latest kits until I’ve had them out and posed for a couple weeks so I can decide if they’re done or not. Really helps to get your mind out of the imperfection finding mode that working up close for so long can cause.
That kinda defeats the purpose of getting the Gundam Base version of this kit though
I could melt the coating off it with some product for sure and then repaint it. but I don’t think it would be worth the effort…
At this cost it's better to buy a new standard HG kit & work on it. That should even cut you the cost of paint stripping solvent. Plated kits are meant for straight builds & leave as they are.
I will say that it's honestly hard to tell at a distance. I had similar issues with my HG Phenex but you can't really see these issues now that its up in a glass case. You gotta get your face right up on the thing like a foot away to start to notice finger prints and other issues.
I meaaaan topcoat it than decal it maybe?
I’m not so sure about topcoating it, won’t it make the whole gold less shiny?
give this is the reflective metallic coat, I *think* a good enough gloss coat should be fine and preserve it. but I'd defer to someone that has a kit like this or the phenex and could comment with authority. I know you can't top coat the satin finish of the MG 2.0 without messing it up but the metallic gloss should be different.
I do have a Mr hobby gloss coat. I can try it on the runners and see how it goes
Always test on runners 🫡
Maybe only slightly, especially if you use a water base acrylic topcoat like Pledge Floor Gloss (if you can find it, as it's been discontinued), or Alclad Aqua Gloss?
Well maybe not if you use a gloss coat.... But wouldn't less shine be better? I mean with that you might serconvent your dust and fingerprint issue as well... Also with a diferent shine it might actually look metalick gold, and not plastick goldXD
Wouldn’t be a problem if you didn’t have fingertips
Yeah honestly. I don’t care how garish or cheap people think it looks, I’ll take gold injection plastic material over this gilded and glittery crap any-day. At least with the other stuff, it won’t chip or scratch if you look at the wrong way.
I have this kit ordered. Definitely wearing gloves to build.
Easiest way is probably to wear a glove before handling any gold-coats. Personally not a fan of any gold coated kit so I never bought any of them. And probably won't.
Dang, I don't think my old HG that was chromed by default gets that dirty. https://preview.redd.it/2fwg13u4057d1.png?width=1440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3c687975cc824eb6c71722ac7b07068eeaddfd88 Or not. Been on a shelf for awhile. Clear yellow might help with the damaged parts since I think that's what bandai uses in the first place. You should be able to use waterslides without setting fluid or try Vallejos since it should be water based
I wore gloves when putting mine together
If I will get another gold coated I will do the same 100%
That RG Akatsuki is looking reaaaally nice lol
Not to mention they can become brittle too. I got the gold Phenex and when I finally got the Naritive and was trying to pose them together, the Phenex fell over onto it’s side and one of the tails broke from a freaking 3 inch fall… tried to glue it but the glue ruins the finish so I had to repaint the glued section of the tail… First and last chromed kit I plan to get…
The MG isn’t like this.
That’s why I stay away from special coating kits unless I know it’s under-gated. The best thing to do to get a kit like this is honestly just painting it yourself. It’s a lot more work but the results will be so much better
Add to other comments You don't need setter for water decals, you can just use plain water. Setter is helpful, but not at all necessary
You need to be extremely delicate with that plating, even the slightest of glue/ hlue residue on your finger will ruin it
You can just put the water slides on without the setter you know... They're not like the awful ones Games Workshop makes where they wont even sit on flat surfaces right without extra chemicals
Is the mg better than this? I’m always dubious of gold as a main color like this
It's so awful it's almost great tbh
If I may....
https://preview.redd.it/65k7xn3qx77d1.jpeg?width=1074&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b9e04bed8ff7ed882f38757ee47733fe305b14d9
Try madworks (tool brand name) wax polishing compound to polish gold plated kits. They have tutorials but it's in taiwanese, but i think they have subtitles in English.
It’s a wrong purchase because u didn’t research much yet mate 🥲. Unfortunately. I also learned it the hard way on iron blooded coating hg lupus rex. Was highlighting the marker and then i pooled it and decided to wipe with alcohol/ thinner and it took the coat away. Setter/softener will most likely ruin it as always as this coat is normally quite weak. Not sure if unless u clear coat it after the build tho?
mg hyaku shiki ver 2.0 isnt as shiny as this one, if u do want something as shiny as this one id say the hyaku shiki raise cain is a good one but its based off a gundam build fighters one not the og one
should have just bought an MG 1.0 cheap cheap. or p bandai hyaku shiki kai.
You don’t necessarily need to use setter, friend. Just gloss top coat after and you’ll be fine
Damn you Bandai !!!, what did it cost you to undergate !!!
I saw some had stripped all the paint of and underneath is a clear ish plastic and it looks pretty dope tbh but you could also paint your own gold on
Gold coat is a nightmare Also I'll buy that bootleg :v
With these metallic gunpla i have found it to be the best just to paint them anyways
It's pretty though. Just look at it as and experience and now you know what these are like.
This is one of the reasons why I Try to avoid model kits like this.
Your experience with the decals gives me concern over my own kit. It's already assembled and sitting pretty in a box, but since it's far back in the queue for decals I haven't gotten to it yet. Now I'm nervous about needing to test coats before starting the decals so I don't accidentally damage the finish.
What happened is that I put the first water decal on the shoulder and damn it was bad. You could see perfectly the outline, line it was a crappy sticker. I then decided to remove it just to find out the the setter left a good mark on the coating, and around the area strakes from drying the setter with the cue tip… So yeah, do some testing too! If I manage to solve the issue I will make an update for sure
Thanks! I'll keep an eye out. I'm glad I saved some of my runners specifically to do testing on. I feel much better about abusing those than the kit itself. I'm sorry you've had a rough experience with it, it's honestly a beautiful kit
I know, it is indeed stunning, that’s why I’m so annoyed by these issues!
Never understood these gold gundam .. always thought they looked like they’d be best displayed on a Donald Trump toilet .. or in said toilet .. pointiest parts posed upwards just waiting for that criminally convicted posterior ..
Btw, the mg isn’t much better so if you intend to grab one of those, uh, you’ve been warned. Was the second kit I ever did, hated seeing every cut leave an ugly mark on the gold and having to keep wiping prints.
Isn’t the mg almost all undergated?
It is, I don't know what happened with that other guy's build, but other than some slight edges where the undergate might show, it's all undergated on the gold runners and looks great. It's one of my favorite kits ever and I never top coated or painted it or anything.
Yeah. I saw some reviews and I remembered it was undergated!
The issue you ran into with the decals and the setter/softener dissolving the gold surface will happen on the MG too though, I ended up just using the stickers sparingly as well as the dry transfer decals which work well. But water slides, only use those on the non-gold plastic like the red of the feet or the blue torso. Just a heads up if you do buy that kit
That’s pretty annoying damn, I will test how it goes using only water and skipping the setter… But I feel that the outline won’t be solvable. I love using all the decals on the sheet!
It’s 50/50, there’s some pretty obvious ones but generally, they’re better hidden
The retail Hyaku Shiki revive looks like it has gold parts undergated but it looks like some parts don't have proper gates and I dislike placing gates in curved pieces or on prominent display like with IBO gundams.