Is a 335bhp rwd sports car a good first car š .
Probably for a bit , until you wrap it round a tree. Also have you checked the insurance cost ? Probably be about. 1/3 of the cost of the car .
Sometimes (probably not with an F-type) first time drivers can get insured cheaper on expensive or performance cars because they're not crashed constantly like other cars commonly owned by first time drivers.
I saw a guy on YouTube that insured a Maclaren for a couple grand shortly after passing his test. I obviously can't verify if he was telling the truth
Are C7 Corvettes like super easy to handle or are redditors constantly overestimating how hard it is to control a rwd sports car? My C7 fucking sticks like glue even with no TC even when exiting a hairpin.
Nowadays thereās a lot of individuals that have literally never driven a RWD car. So if you grow up only flooring a FWD everywhere and suddenly find yourself behind the wheel of a high power RWDā¦.. I mean yeah it can end badly.
I recently bought a S550 Mustang and I was amazed at how far I have to push the car to lose grip. (Older Mustangs with half the power would lose grip like crazy). But somehow people still manage to spin them out all the timeā¦ā¦
Funny you mention the s550. I have a 2020 GT with performance pack and the 10 speed and I have to try pretty hard to break it loose even though it's pretty much always in its power band.
A lot of that is because of the active traction control working hard to counteract wheel spin. And that is always on to some extent even when it says it's not. Yes even in track mode.
Unplug the traction control under the hood and be ready for a whole different enchilada. If you're knowledgeable it's a wonderful way to get more out of the car (on a track, like a responsible person). If not.. hope you don't hit anyone and you have good insurance.
I thankfully have driven mostly RWD vehicles my entire life so I respect the way the power is delivered. But if you ever wonder how people end up crowd hunting in mustangs it is because they've disconnected traction control entirely and don't know how to drive the car. 460hp to the rears is a lot of power.
That's what i am saying. Idk how they manage it. I have never had a rwd car before this, and it's like idk you have to actively try for the C7 to lose grip, it's not nearly as hard to drive as Reddit thinks. I am sure Jag with a V6 would stick to the road like crazy as well.
Itās not about the car. Itās about unpredictable road/traffic conditions. Everyone thinks they are a great driver until they hit an oil patch, or get brake checked.
I don't understand what you said. Sorry. All i am saying is cars are MUCH easier to control than what Reddit tells you and that's a fact i have felt myself with lots of high performance rwd cars.
I'm a V6 S owner. When you say you can afford the costs, does that factor in that it's a 126,000 mile car? If you can afford a couple/few thousand pounds here and there for maintenance issues, why not increase your budget to something with lower miles?
Not necessarily (see: Toyota and Lexus), however this is very high mileage for an F-Type, so that means it has likely spent its 11 years of life as someone's daily driver. That's a lot of wear and tear.
Since you're not really into cars, please know that there is a famous saying for used luxury cars: "You may only be paying ā¤17,500 for it, but comes with the repair bills of a ā¤100,000 car."
I would recommend looking at other, less expensive, newer 2 seat sports cars, such as those u/[EL\_JAY315](https://www.reddit.com/user/EL_JAY315/) mentioned. Miata, BRZ, etc.
As someone who has had three extremely unreliable Toyotas, two of them brand new, this stereotype needs to just die.
Toyota use the same 1st tier suppliers as everyone else.
I don't know all the faults but they've had some major ones like the heater matrix packing up requiring the dash to come out and while not strictly major the starter motor has died along with another related fault. Neither of which should be happening on a car with less than 75k on it really.
On the RAV4 too many things to list, but it nearly killed me twice, and it would be in the dealership for one thing, and another problem would appear. That happened a few times. Went in for ECU issues and big round circles of paint fell off the hood and roof. Toyota bought the car back off me at the end because the dealership was like š¤·āāļø.
The Corolla had unresolvable electrical issues. Loom, engine, relays (whatever they are), instruments, ecu, and 20 different and often unreadable error messagesā¦
There was a bad smell coming from the dash, like burned plastic fish smell. Took it to the dealership who couldnāt find anything.
It wasnāt that bad so we kept driving it, then it started blowing steam onto the windshield (inside the car) and dealership said they had to take the dash out.
So they fixed that. And as it was coming up for service they kept the car. And it spontaneously combusted in their car park one night. The back half of the car was gone apart from metal.
I now have a mercedes thatās at 200k and only had a xenon bulb go so far.
Not sure stereotype is the word youāre looking for, but take it up with the powers that be:
https://www.jdpower.com/business/press-releases/2024-us-vehicle-dependability-study-vds
https://www.consumerreports.org/cars/car-reliability-owner-satisfaction/who-makes-the-most-reliable-cars-a7824554938/
Another thing to remember is that whilst itās cheaper now itās still a Ā£60,000+ car brand new. Parts donāt necessarily become cheaper and the added complexity doesnāt vanish.
As a former Jaguar owner whet her car lemoned on me after 3 years, I can promise you know a 126k mile jag is just a comically long scroll of problems waiting to happen.
It doesn't necessarily mean it's less reliable in the sense of things being more likely to break unexpectedly, but it *does* mean that any wear and tear parts that are on longer replacement cycles are getting close to their end of life. So things like timing belts, bearings, axles, etc. Things that aren't really thought of as wear and tear items but that do wear out over time.
And remember that regardless of what *you* paid for the car, this is still a luxury car with luxury car prices on parts and service. I can tell you from experience that if you break a headlight, it's a $2,000 - 6,000 part. Can you afford a $2,000 part if you get into a minor fender bender?
Absolutely lol higher mileage means more things that will fail and need to be fixed. And trust me these things can and will cost you. Anyone willing to buy one needs to know before hand if they can handle with cost of ownership.
If you like sporty rwd cars then you should spend some time driving something with less power first so that you can learn safely.
I recommend an mx5, but you could also try a BRZ/gt86, etc.
Also, in terms of "affording" something: be prepared for maintenance, hidden repairs, insurance, consumables, etc. There's a lot more that goes into the cost than just the sale price. And keep in mind: money that you spend on all of those things is money that you won't have in the future.
Last advice: whichever car you decide to get, make sure you research it very very very thoroughly before you buy it. Scour the forums, the Facebook groups, the subreddits... try to learn everything you can about it so that you're not caught off guard by anything (which could still happen anyway).
Post the insurance quote for that car that should make interesting reading. The highest quote I got for an ftype r was 9k. Itās far from my first car
Youāre buying a ā¬17000 car but youāll ultimately be paying for a ā¬80000 car.
One that may have been run hard in such a short amount of time. Donāt go near it.
I understand that you can afford it. Idk how old you are either but this seems like a huge first step. Maybe I was a bit harshā¦ sorry long day at work. It would be a great car and fucking fun but If I were you I would start with something lower end to get a feel for a rwd sports car. Learn how to really drive well and that will give you time to really figure out finances of car ownership and save up for a lower miles spec. Do you really want your first dream car to have 125k miles? Get a old z or Miata to really drive the crap out of and make mistakes with.
I live in the US so I know that Jag cost of ownership prices are probably a bit higher here but just my thoughts.
Good luck with your decision. Youāre in a good spot it seems.
EDIT: Most of the time people ask car buying advice on reddit I feel like 90% of the time their mind is made up and they just want outside confirmation. Youāre not asking on r/whatcarshouldibuy your asking on the Jag sub so I figure you just wanted confirmation.
I would advise caution when considering a RWD car without any road experience. I know most people will probably down-vote me for saying this, but hear me outā¦
When I switched to a moderately powerful 2017 1 Series (120d) several years ago, I hadnāt had it long before thinking it would be fun to try switching the traction control etc off on a slightly damp day and see if I could tickle the back of the car out a little. What could go wrong eh? Iād been driving many years and had some fairly hot FWD cars. I ended up with car facing backwards on a quiet roundabout feeling very stupid. Fortunately, there was no one to witness my stupidity but I could easily have hit a kerb or worse. Needless to say Iām more respectful of RWD/damp roads/traction control these days!
I guess my point is, youāre looking at a very powerful, RWD car, and we all can make silly mistakes! But perhaps more so when we are figuring out a new car (or entirely new experience if youāre new to the road!)
Of course traction control etc is fantastic at keeping the car pointing the right way, but if you have a silly moment like I did it can get scary quite quickly! Much less so in a front wheel drive car if youāre a new driver. Again, only my opinion and experience. Apologies for the boring advice š
(Edit: spelling)
It's the power you might find an issue. The reason a lot of first cars are sub 99hp is because they are easy to control. If you can afford the overheads and don't ever "push it" (taking a risk with corners and speed etc) - i'd say go for it.
My first car wasn't conventional at all, worst that happened was a scrape on some carpark barriers lol.
How is this new information for you, surely common sense would have you thinking the more a car has been driven the more likely things are to break, what do you think garage's do all day if you believe cars are indestructible
No.Ā What about an older GT86/frs/brz?Ā I had one before my FType, it was way more manageable while still allowing for stupid fun. Just don't try to drag race anything.Ā
But they're kind of similar in style and feel (like driving position, blind spots, etc... not power and handling).Ā Going to my FType felt a bit like stepping into an FRS that grew up and took a lot of steroids.Ā Ā
Ā Then be patient and save up for a few years and you can get into a newer FType with less miles and have some money set aside for potential repairs.Ā
No. Unless you have been driving other cars for a long time. Itās 300+ horsepower on the rear wheels. You press the gas pedal at the wrong moment and youāll be heading sideways for the closest tree. Trust me on this one.
Get something slightly tamer for now. If it has to be a Jag, go for an XK8 - itās still a ton of fun and far less likely to attempt murder. If not, look for an E92 3-series or F32 4-series. The Toyobaru suggested elsewhere in this thread is also good, but Iām personally not a fan of their interiors.
Yupp. Iād rather buy a ftype with 60K miles and no problems than one with 125K. IF something happens rip your wallet. Just a new engine costs more than the price of the car
Sure if you're a rich muppet who wants to die horribly. New drivers make mistakes, hit the wrong pedal at times if frustrated etc. make one of those beginner mistakes in a car like this and you'll likely spin out and kill yourself and or others.
Whatās your driving like? Are you quick at karting when the tracks wet? Do much sim racing? Done any single seater track days?
If youāre new to driving definitely donāt get this. Get something slower to start so you can crash that first, get an mx5 or a 1 series coupe or something so you can get used to a front engine rear wheel drive setup. If you canāt catch a slide youāre in trouble.
I got a mini for my first car which I swiftly put into a ditch on my first experience of aquaplaning. I didnāt buy my first Porsche till I was 23 when I had enough experience driving fast or rwd cars. At 17 youāre too immature and inexperienced
I can imagine, those tyres were all so narrow and lacking traction compared to now days too!
My dadās a big petrol head so got me into it young but he had a TVR that constantly tried to kill him back in the late 80s/early 90s. If that TVR had its way I wouldnāt be here lol.
We live close to brands hatch so he started going there to get tuition and went on to doing single seaters round there. So road cars are easy now for him, and I wish I did wet go karting before I started driving cars on the road, would have saved my mini for sure if I had the skill I do now.
If you care, he said the most fun heās ever had was driving a vehicle was doing laps of brands hatch in a geared go kart back in the late 90s, they only went 80mph so slow compared to cars but brands hatch is such a class track and sitting so low to the ground I wish they still offered that there!
Itās real wheel drive, so unless you have experience driving a car like this, itās going to be much more difficult in snow, rain or any other slick conditions.
My bigger concern would be with how high mileage the car is. This thing is going to be a money pit for sure.
To give you some data points, my first two cars were 250hp and rwd. Fun, but not quite enough rope to hang yourself with. I then got the F type R and that's enough rope to hang yourself and then tie the coffin shut. Definitely would not recommend even the smaller engines as first cars.
Also, I'll assume money is a factor. I've spent probably 15k on maintenance in the two years I've had mine, and I bought it 7 years old and only 25,000 miles.
I would say go for something a bit cheaper and less lairy but still fun. Look at E chassis BMWs, 350s, frs triplets, etc. Navigate the struggles and enjoyment of having a car with less skin in the game, and get better at driving, THEN treat yourself with a full fat sports car when the time is right!
A Quick Look on auto trader brings up some with a lot less miles for less than a grand more. It does look stunning in white though. After covid and seeing ten year old golfs for 10k they seem like awesome value. If you can afford it then go for it, enjoy life while youāre young. But be careful, this is nothing like the car youāll have learnt to drive in.
F-types are sexy! This one looks okay (seems to have a large bonnet : bumper gap tho) but the absolute no is the 126k over 10 years. Bet the MOT history is littered with problems .
Ok so V6. So that's 6 cylinders. 6 spark plugs, 6 points, 6 x Coil packs. Coil packs alone will set you back about Ā£2000 on in parts. And they will need replacing at some point. Just an example of the many servicing costs you're looking at. Seriously, buy a Mini Cooper S or something before you kill yourself in a RWD high performance car.
Not really car guy, first car, young age. Why are you even looking at a V6 F-Type!? I started with 1.6 Citroen Xsara when I was 18. Learn to handle cars, understand torque etc.
It's a great car. I LOVE the F Types.
But as a first car? F**k no. Get something you won't mind dinging or scratching for a while. Nice cars are great, but so is having a car you don't have to worry about. You'd be gutted if you crunched the F Type. Bide your time, it's not a race.
As much as 16-18 year old me would have wanted to have this as a first car, adult me now knows better. Do yourself favor and buy a Miata. Both fun and forgiving when it comes to ownershipĀ
The only way around insurance is adding every possible family member you can find and adding them as a named driver with all 20+yrs driving experience and NCB and pay annually over interest on monthly payments.
But if you can afford it (and afford to replace it if you do crash) powerful motor for a first car.
If i where me freshly on the road with money for any dream car Iād buy a little shitty hum dinger of a car and drive it for a couple months to get my confidence and ability up and only then buy said dream car.
Youād be so upset getting new driver chips or scratches.
Life is a game. Those who are patient and play it the best always come out on top.
I also feel that the cautions here regarding RWD cars are way overblown. My first car was the only thing I could afford that had some style: An old '71 MGB. Beautiful car and a total horror movie regarding maintenance. But the key point was that it only made about 94HP at redline.
So I'd suggest getting something underpowered, and preferably Japanese or Korean. You'll save a lot on maintenance, insurance will be reasonable, and you'll have reliable transport while learning the ins and outs of driving. Later, you can look at something with more oomph. This car you're looking at would bleed you dry from all the repairs needed.
No, no, no. On so many different levels. First off as a first car the car will probably be cheaper than the insurance. Second, unless I had a very detailed service history, 120,000 miles on the SCV6 is getting up there. In a Range Rover Iād think twice, in a sports car thatās probably been driven hard Iād say nope. A new engine is going to set you back with labor, close to the cost of the car. At only 380 bhp itās still going to be a handful, especially in bad weather.
If you must buy it, pay cash, get a full dependable warranty (lol, 3rd party warranties), and make sure you have enough cash reserves on hand to lay out the cost of the car again on parts, repairs miscellaneous trouble shooting. Good cars, but like any well used aging European luxury brand the total cost of ownership is not trivial.
I love JLR products and I buy used ones with dependable warranties from CarMax (no idea what the UK equivalent is), but, you need at least a decent level of mechanical and electrical experience to diagnose the inevitable issues. At that age and mileage, there will inevitably a whole host of issues that need addressing and if you donāt know how the car should be feeling from experience, you may end up creating catastrophic issues from somewhat simple problems.
Are you high, youāll kill yourself,
My ex boss bought his son a focus RS years ago when he got his license, you know what happened, he took 2 of his friends out, and they crashed into a tree so hard it killed all 3 of them. Part of the engine pushed through the firewall into the front seat.
Iām not saying donāt get a nice quick car, Iām saying get something thatās manageable and safe, a GTI, a Fiesta ST, any number of front wheel drive, fun hot hatches. Please do not buy this.
Good first cars that are more predictable so you can get a hang of things would be a brz, rwd base 3 series, c300, Altima, gti
Trust me everyone overhypes saying every car needs more hp most cars donāt and you donāt want to find out that you didnāt need more hp
Some individuals here are over exaggerating how ādangerousā RWD is. My first car was a Chrysler 300 hemi C with 340 rwd hp and I now have a Mercedes S55K AMG with nearly 500 hp that both behave like regular vehicles if you drive them like a responsible human being- as you should be if youāre a licensed individual. Iām 19 and I can handle the responsibility. If you can afford it without financing I say do it. YOLO
As a dyed in the wool high milage fan.
125k I wouldn't touch it.
It's at the point where it's too high to be low mileage and too low to be high miles.
There is a reason someone has parted with it at those sort of miles.
Plus it's a jag made by Tata
Just look at Tata cars and then decide.....
Toyota mazda BMW merc all do rear wheel drive stuff that is either cheaper or better and rwd.
Or go the whole hog and buy something old and old school cool
Volvo 960 and do a bit of work on it š
For sure, but this is what you sign up for with euro sports cars, whether it be BMW M cars, AMG, Audis, Alfa Giulia Quadrifoglio, etc.
The Ford era certainly improved Jaguars reliability, which was great.
Everyone saying mileage is bad but thereās every possibility itās had every major component replaced by now to even make it to that mileage. Iād look at the history for sure if youāre interested. If itās a dealer negotiate a full 12 months warranty.
Itās a wildly irresponsible first car but my cousins girlfriend had an M140i as a first car and never had an accident.
I didnāt say definitely did I? I said thereās a possibility. Could have been owned by someone with bottomless pockets who repaired any time a component started showing wear. Itās surprising to see one with such mileage, Iād expect itās been maintained decently to get there and not be a total shed.
Is a 335bhp rwd sports car a good first car š . Probably for a bit , until you wrap it round a tree. Also have you checked the insurance cost ? Probably be about. 1/3 of the cost of the car .
Insurance for f-types are not too bad actually
Youāre missing the āfirst carā part - the insurance will be horrid for a 17-22 year old.
I dont think any insurer actually would insure them
They will be someone willing to insure, itās just a matter of cost.
Don't you mean 3 times the cost of the car
I'm more concerned about the automatic transition. Not sure if this came in a manual but that would certainly help free the tires from the road.
Itās a tripronic or auto.
I was making a joke bud.
Oh sorry, I didnāt see a joke in there ;p
Sometimes (probably not with an F-type) first time drivers can get insured cheaper on expensive or performance cars because they're not crashed constantly like other cars commonly owned by first time drivers. I saw a guy on YouTube that insured a Maclaren for a couple grand shortly after passing his test. I obviously can't verify if he was telling the truth
Well, all videos on the internet are real. I watched a video once that told me.
My amg was the fastest car ive ever owned and also the cheapest to insure
Are C7 Corvettes like super easy to handle or are redditors constantly overestimating how hard it is to control a rwd sports car? My C7 fucking sticks like glue even with no TC even when exiting a hairpin.
Nowadays thereās a lot of individuals that have literally never driven a RWD car. So if you grow up only flooring a FWD everywhere and suddenly find yourself behind the wheel of a high power RWDā¦.. I mean yeah it can end badly. I recently bought a S550 Mustang and I was amazed at how far I have to push the car to lose grip. (Older Mustangs with half the power would lose grip like crazy). But somehow people still manage to spin them out all the timeā¦ā¦
Funny you mention the s550. I have a 2020 GT with performance pack and the 10 speed and I have to try pretty hard to break it loose even though it's pretty much always in its power band. A lot of that is because of the active traction control working hard to counteract wheel spin. And that is always on to some extent even when it says it's not. Yes even in track mode. Unplug the traction control under the hood and be ready for a whole different enchilada. If you're knowledgeable it's a wonderful way to get more out of the car (on a track, like a responsible person). If not.. hope you don't hit anyone and you have good insurance. I thankfully have driven mostly RWD vehicles my entire life so I respect the way the power is delivered. But if you ever wonder how people end up crowd hunting in mustangs it is because they've disconnected traction control entirely and don't know how to drive the car. 460hp to the rears is a lot of power.
That's what i am saying. Idk how they manage it. I have never had a rwd car before this, and it's like idk you have to actively try for the C7 to lose grip, it's not nearly as hard to drive as Reddit thinks. I am sure Jag with a V6 would stick to the road like crazy as well.
Itās not about the car. Itās about unpredictable road/traffic conditions. Everyone thinks they are a great driver until they hit an oil patch, or get brake checked.
You can hit oil patch or get brake checked in any car. Hell getting brake checked is less scary in a sports car that stops well ffs.
Yes and you are definitely the slowest car on the road in your C7.
I don't understand what you said. Sorry. All i am saying is cars are MUCH easier to control than what Reddit tells you and that's a fact i have felt myself with lots of high performance rwd cars.
Does it aye?
Itās surprisingly lower than that
I'm expecting Ā£2-3k?
I'm a V6 S owner. When you say you can afford the costs, does that factor in that it's a 126,000 mile car? If you can afford a couple/few thousand pounds here and there for maintenance issues, why not increase your budget to something with lower miles?
Iām not really a car guy,but does higher Milage mean itās definitely going to be less reliable
Not necessarily (see: Toyota and Lexus), however this is very high mileage for an F-Type, so that means it has likely spent its 11 years of life as someone's daily driver. That's a lot of wear and tear. Since you're not really into cars, please know that there is a famous saying for used luxury cars: "You may only be paying ā¤17,500 for it, but comes with the repair bills of a ā¤100,000 car." I would recommend looking at other, less expensive, newer 2 seat sports cars, such as those u/[EL\_JAY315](https://www.reddit.com/user/EL_JAY315/) mentioned. Miata, BRZ, etc.
As someone who has had three extremely unreliable Toyotas, two of them brand new, this stereotype needs to just die. Toyota use the same 1st tier suppliers as everyone else.
What models were they?
Corolla, RAV4, 4Runner
My folks have an old MK2 Rav4 that's soldering on and they bought a newer 18 plate one and it's been nothing but trouble.
What problems have they had?
I don't know all the faults but they've had some major ones like the heater matrix packing up requiring the dash to come out and while not strictly major the starter motor has died along with another related fault. Neither of which should be happening on a car with less than 75k on it really.
He said Corolla is unreliable. This man is more untrustworthy than Donald Trump giving out Covid advice.
Hey now, you must know that one persons anecdotal experience is more relevant than hundreds of consumer reports. /s
This man could be the second coming of Jesus. I still would never believe him that a Corolla broke down.
It didnāt probably just ran out of petrol
What went wrong?
On the RAV4 too many things to list, but it nearly killed me twice, and it would be in the dealership for one thing, and another problem would appear. That happened a few times. Went in for ECU issues and big round circles of paint fell off the hood and roof. Toyota bought the car back off me at the end because the dealership was like š¤·āāļø. The Corolla had unresolvable electrical issues. Loom, engine, relays (whatever they are), instruments, ecu, and 20 different and often unreadable error messagesā¦
That sounds like a really terrible experience, well apart from the fact that Toyota bought the car back. What went wrong with the 4runner?
There was a bad smell coming from the dash, like burned plastic fish smell. Took it to the dealership who couldnāt find anything. It wasnāt that bad so we kept driving it, then it started blowing steam onto the windshield (inside the car) and dealership said they had to take the dash out. So they fixed that. And as it was coming up for service they kept the car. And it spontaneously combusted in their car park one night. The back half of the car was gone apart from metal. I now have a mercedes thatās at 200k and only had a xenon bulb go so far.
Not sure stereotype is the word youāre looking for, but take it up with the powers that be: https://www.jdpower.com/business/press-releases/2024-us-vehicle-dependability-study-vds https://www.consumerreports.org/cars/car-reliability-owner-satisfaction/who-makes-the-most-reliable-cars-a7824554938/
Thank you for thisšš¼
Another thing to remember is that whilst itās cheaper now itās still a Ā£60,000+ car brand new. Parts donāt necessarily become cheaper and the added complexity doesnāt vanish.
MX5 is a great. I had a mk 1 for 14.5 years.
As a former Jaguar owner whet her car lemoned on me after 3 years, I can promise you know a 126k mile jag is just a comically long scroll of problems waiting to happen.
> if you canāt afford a new European vehicle, you canāt afford to maintain a secondhand one FTFY
It doesn't necessarily mean it's less reliable in the sense of things being more likely to break unexpectedly, but it *does* mean that any wear and tear parts that are on longer replacement cycles are getting close to their end of life. So things like timing belts, bearings, axles, etc. Things that aren't really thought of as wear and tear items but that do wear out over time. And remember that regardless of what *you* paid for the car, this is still a luxury car with luxury car prices on parts and service. I can tell you from experience that if you break a headlight, it's a $2,000 - 6,000 part. Can you afford a $2,000 part if you get into a minor fender bender?
Thank you and probably not consistently š
Absolutely
Absolutely lol higher mileage means more things that will fail and need to be fixed. And trust me these things can and will cost you. Anyone willing to buy one needs to know before hand if they can handle with cost of ownership.
High mileage means itās reliable to make it to that many miles and still be going no ?
Then a 300k mile F-Type is what the OP should really be looking at.
Rare to find that with the age of them to do 300k in that short amount of years
If you like sporty rwd cars then you should spend some time driving something with less power first so that you can learn safely. I recommend an mx5, but you could also try a BRZ/gt86, etc. Also, in terms of "affording" something: be prepared for maintenance, hidden repairs, insurance, consumables, etc. There's a lot more that goes into the cost than just the sale price. And keep in mind: money that you spend on all of those things is money that you won't have in the future. Last advice: whichever car you decide to get, make sure you research it very very very thoroughly before you buy it. Scour the forums, the Facebook groups, the subreddits... try to learn everything you can about it so that you're not caught off guard by anything (which could still happen anyway).
Thank you for This reply. Itās very insightful I appreciate it.
Post the insurance quote for that car that should make interesting reading. The highest quote I got for an ftype r was 9k. Itās far from my first car
The quote was 3k but considering what everyone is saying about the mileage i probably wonāt touch it
Buy an infiniti g35 or g37 coupe (if available in UK) 6 cylinder RWD relatively decent powered car, from a premium brand.
Starter car? Sir, this is a finisher car
Rip f type
Hell no lolā¦ cost of maintenance, possible repairs, and insurance.
Youāre buying a ā¬17000 car but youāll ultimately be paying for a ā¬80000 car. One that may have been run hard in such a short amount of time. Donāt go near it.
Itās a horrible idea. But you probably wonāt listen.
Iām listening dw
I understand that you can afford it. Idk how old you are either but this seems like a huge first step. Maybe I was a bit harshā¦ sorry long day at work. It would be a great car and fucking fun but If I were you I would start with something lower end to get a feel for a rwd sports car. Learn how to really drive well and that will give you time to really figure out finances of car ownership and save up for a lower miles spec. Do you really want your first dream car to have 125k miles? Get a old z or Miata to really drive the crap out of and make mistakes with. I live in the US so I know that Jag cost of ownership prices are probably a bit higher here but just my thoughts. Good luck with your decision. Youāre in a good spot it seems. EDIT: Most of the time people ask car buying advice on reddit I feel like 90% of the time their mind is made up and they just want outside confirmation. Youāre not asking on r/whatcarshouldibuy your asking on the Jag sub so I figure you just wanted confirmation.
I would advise caution when considering a RWD car without any road experience. I know most people will probably down-vote me for saying this, but hear me outā¦ When I switched to a moderately powerful 2017 1 Series (120d) several years ago, I hadnāt had it long before thinking it would be fun to try switching the traction control etc off on a slightly damp day and see if I could tickle the back of the car out a little. What could go wrong eh? Iād been driving many years and had some fairly hot FWD cars. I ended up with car facing backwards on a quiet roundabout feeling very stupid. Fortunately, there was no one to witness my stupidity but I could easily have hit a kerb or worse. Needless to say Iām more respectful of RWD/damp roads/traction control these days! I guess my point is, youāre looking at a very powerful, RWD car, and we all can make silly mistakes! But perhaps more so when we are figuring out a new car (or entirely new experience if youāre new to the road!) Of course traction control etc is fantastic at keeping the car pointing the right way, but if you have a silly moment like I did it can get scary quite quickly! Much less so in a front wheel drive car if youāre a new driver. Again, only my opinion and experience. Apologies for the boring advice š (Edit: spelling)
"Is a Jag a good first car"šš
Start with a toyota yaris
You really ought to start with a slower car to ease yourself in. Try the 4cl then swap for a V6
It's the power you might find an issue. The reason a lot of first cars are sub 99hp is because they are easy to control. If you can afford the overheads and don't ever "push it" (taking a risk with corners and speed etc) - i'd say go for it. My first car wasn't conventional at all, worst that happened was a scrape on some carpark barriers lol.
Iām in ā¤ļø
You wouldnāt even get insured on that. Donāt think black box policies cover 335bhp sports cars š¤£š¤£š¤£
If you're looking at a car with that high mileage chances are you can't afford the car.
Since it seems like high mileage is a bad thing. Iāll look else where
How is this new information for you, surely common sense would have you thinking the more a car has been driven the more likely things are to break, what do you think garage's do all day if you believe cars are indestructible
No.Ā What about an older GT86/frs/brz?Ā I had one before my FType, it was way more manageable while still allowing for stupid fun. Just don't try to drag race anything.Ā But they're kind of similar in style and feel (like driving position, blind spots, etc... not power and handling).Ā Going to my FType felt a bit like stepping into an FRS that grew up and took a lot of steroids.Ā Ā Ā Then be patient and save up for a few years and you can get into a newer FType with less miles and have some money set aside for potential repairs.Ā
I had one for 7 years. A GT86 is going to inspire a NEW young driver to take chances. But a great car.
You wonāt live very long.
No. Unless you have been driving other cars for a long time. Itās 300+ horsepower on the rear wheels. You press the gas pedal at the wrong moment and youāll be heading sideways for the closest tree. Trust me on this one. Get something slightly tamer for now. If it has to be a Jag, go for an XK8 - itās still a ton of fun and far less likely to attempt murder. If not, look for an E92 3-series or F32 4-series. The Toyobaru suggested elsewhere in this thread is also good, but Iām personally not a fan of their interiors.
This kinda set me straight thank youššš¼
With 125K miles on it? No lmao
In this day and age if 125k is high then thatās a shit car. Ā
If it's bad at 125k- it was never good to begin with
Buying a v6 sportscar with 125K is never a good decision, especially if itās a jaguar. Just get ready for a shitload of maintenance
Valid. Performance does tend to come with a price alongside the cost of the car itself.
Yupp. Iād rather buy a ftype with 60K miles and no problems than one with 125K. IF something happens rip your wallet. Just a new engine costs more than the price of the car
Sure if you're a rich muppet who wants to die horribly. New drivers make mistakes, hit the wrong pedal at times if frustrated etc. make one of those beginner mistakes in a car like this and you'll likely spin out and kill yourself and or others.
You have successfully put me offš
Consider a car with half the miles
Whatās your driving like? Are you quick at karting when the tracks wet? Do much sim racing? Done any single seater track days? If youāre new to driving definitely donāt get this. Get something slower to start so you can crash that first, get an mx5 or a 1 series coupe or something so you can get used to a front engine rear wheel drive setup. If you canāt catch a slide youāre in trouble. I got a mini for my first car which I swiftly put into a ditch on my first experience of aquaplaning. I didnāt buy my first Porsche till I was 23 when I had enough experience driving fast or rwd cars. At 17 youāre too immature and inexperienced
Just imagine the 80s and before where virtually everything even a sierra was RWD
I can imagine, those tyres were all so narrow and lacking traction compared to now days too! My dadās a big petrol head so got me into it young but he had a TVR that constantly tried to kill him back in the late 80s/early 90s. If that TVR had its way I wouldnāt be here lol. We live close to brands hatch so he started going there to get tuition and went on to doing single seaters round there. So road cars are easy now for him, and I wish I did wet go karting before I started driving cars on the road, would have saved my mini for sure if I had the skill I do now. If you care, he said the most fun heās ever had was driving a vehicle was doing laps of brands hatch in a geared go kart back in the late 90s, they only went 80mph so slow compared to cars but brands hatch is such a class track and sitting so low to the ground I wish they still offered that there!
Excellent first car. Couldnāt get any better, well maybe an Astonā¦
Itās real wheel drive, so unless you have experience driving a car like this, itās going to be much more difficult in snow, rain or any other slick conditions. My bigger concern would be with how high mileage the car is. This thing is going to be a money pit for sure.
Yes.
if u buy be ready to put another 20k in repairs in a few months
To give you some data points, my first two cars were 250hp and rwd. Fun, but not quite enough rope to hang yourself with. I then got the F type R and that's enough rope to hang yourself and then tie the coffin shut. Definitely would not recommend even the smaller engines as first cars. Also, I'll assume money is a factor. I've spent probably 15k on maintenance in the two years I've had mine, and I bought it 7 years old and only 25,000 miles. I would say go for something a bit cheaper and less lairy but still fun. Look at E chassis BMWs, 350s, frs triplets, etc. Navigate the struggles and enjoyment of having a car with less skin in the game, and get better at driving, THEN treat yourself with a full fat sports car when the time is right!
Thatās probably the best thing to do
A Quick Look on auto trader brings up some with a lot less miles for less than a grand more. It does look stunning in white though. After covid and seeing ten year old golfs for 10k they seem like awesome value. If you can afford it then go for it, enjoy life while youāre young. But be careful, this is nothing like the car youāll have learnt to drive in.
F-types are sexy! This one looks okay (seems to have a large bonnet : bumper gap tho) but the absolute no is the 126k over 10 years. Bet the MOT history is littered with problems .
Are you planning to be a mechanic?
Ok so V6. So that's 6 cylinders. 6 spark plugs, 6 points, 6 x Coil packs. Coil packs alone will set you back about Ā£2000 on in parts. And they will need replacing at some point. Just an example of the many servicing costs you're looking at. Seriously, buy a Mini Cooper S or something before you kill yourself in a RWD high performance car.
Iām glad people are honest in this thread
Not really car guy, first car, young age. Why are you even looking at a V6 F-Type!? I started with 1.6 Citroen Xsara when I was 18. Learn to handle cars, understand torque etc.
As someone that got an F-type as their first carā¦ itās a solid YES!
That's an absolute shit bucket, do not buy.
If I had that for my first car, I must have won the lottery š
It's a great car. I LOVE the F Types. But as a first car? F**k no. Get something you won't mind dinging or scratching for a while. Nice cars are great, but so is having a car you don't have to worry about. You'd be gutted if you crunched the F Type. Bide your time, it's not a race.
If you can afford it. Go nuts.
Nah man, you want something with a bit of poke so you can accelerate your way out of any tricky situations.
Thatās well over 200,000km Make sure itās got a service history and you research what can go wrong, because itāll all probably go wrong
126000 miles?
Definitely. Especially if you need a reliable car on a tight budget.
Briefly
As much as 16-18 year old me would have wanted to have this as a first car, adult me now knows better. Do yourself favor and buy a Miata. Both fun and forgiving when it comes to ownershipĀ
The only way around insurance is adding every possible family member you can find and adding them as a named driver with all 20+yrs driving experience and NCB and pay annually over interest on monthly payments. But if you can afford it (and afford to replace it if you do crash) powerful motor for a first car. If i where me freshly on the road with money for any dream car Iād buy a little shitty hum dinger of a car and drive it for a couple months to get my confidence and ability up and only then buy said dream car. Youād be so upset getting new driver chips or scratches. Life is a game. Those who are patient and play it the best always come out on top.
No
These are dirt cheap for a reason
I also feel that the cautions here regarding RWD cars are way overblown. My first car was the only thing I could afford that had some style: An old '71 MGB. Beautiful car and a total horror movie regarding maintenance. But the key point was that it only made about 94HP at redline. So I'd suggest getting something underpowered, and preferably Japanese or Korean. You'll save a lot on maintenance, insurance will be reasonable, and you'll have reliable transport while learning the ins and outs of driving. Later, you can look at something with more oomph. This car you're looking at would bleed you dry from all the repairs needed.
Bonkers for a first car IMO. But you do you as the kids say these days
First and last car
No, no, no. On so many different levels. First off as a first car the car will probably be cheaper than the insurance. Second, unless I had a very detailed service history, 120,000 miles on the SCV6 is getting up there. In a Range Rover Iād think twice, in a sports car thatās probably been driven hard Iād say nope. A new engine is going to set you back with labor, close to the cost of the car. At only 380 bhp itās still going to be a handful, especially in bad weather. If you must buy it, pay cash, get a full dependable warranty (lol, 3rd party warranties), and make sure you have enough cash reserves on hand to lay out the cost of the car again on parts, repairs miscellaneous trouble shooting. Good cars, but like any well used aging European luxury brand the total cost of ownership is not trivial. I love JLR products and I buy used ones with dependable warranties from CarMax (no idea what the UK equivalent is), but, you need at least a decent level of mechanical and electrical experience to diagnose the inevitable issues. At that age and mileage, there will inevitably a whole host of issues that need addressing and if you donāt know how the car should be feeling from experience, you may end up creating catastrophic issues from somewhat simple problems.
These are excellent cars
Good first car? No.... Absolutely sick first car that you'll never forget and all other cars you own will be inferior for quite some time? YES!
Are you high, youāll kill yourself, My ex boss bought his son a focus RS years ago when he got his license, you know what happened, he took 2 of his friends out, and they crashed into a tree so hard it killed all 3 of them. Part of the engine pushed through the firewall into the front seat. Iām not saying donāt get a nice quick car, Iām saying get something thatās manageable and safe, a GTI, a Fiesta ST, any number of front wheel drive, fun hot hatches. Please do not buy this.
LOL NOOOOOO
hell nah jags are shiiiit esp 125k miles
Good first cars that are more predictable so you can get a hang of things would be a brz, rwd base 3 series, c300, Altima, gti Trust me everyone overhypes saying every car needs more hp most cars donāt and you donāt want to find out that you didnāt need more hp
jagsellent first car
Do it.
Some individuals here are over exaggerating how ādangerousā RWD is. My first car was a Chrysler 300 hemi C with 340 rwd hp and I now have a Mercedes S55K AMG with nearly 500 hp that both behave like regular vehicles if you drive them like a responsible human being- as you should be if youāre a licensed individual. Iām 19 and I can handle the responsibility. If you can afford it without financing I say do it. YOLO
Completely agree. This RWD V6 is fine. The F-Type V8 RWD cars are a handful for a new driver.
As a dyed in the wool high milage fan. 125k I wouldn't touch it. It's at the point where it's too high to be low mileage and too low to be high miles. There is a reason someone has parted with it at those sort of miles. Plus it's a jag made by Tata Just look at Tata cars and then decide..... Toyota mazda BMW merc all do rear wheel drive stuff that is either cheaper or better and rwd. Or go the whole hog and buy something old and old school cool Volvo 960 and do a bit of work on it š
These are not well built cars, avoid.
Explain.
Terrible cooling system, corrosion, blocked drains, electrical issues.
I'll be sure to circle back and thank you should I actually encounter any of those things.
I work somewhere that fixes them
What about the ones your employer doesn't fix?
There are less troublesome ones out there, like any car. But they are not much of a quality product compared to the XK that came before.
For sure, but this is what you sign up for with euro sports cars, whether it be BMW M cars, AMG, Audis, Alfa Giulia Quadrifoglio, etc. The Ford era certainly improved Jaguars reliability, which was great.
It's a Jag, I don't think there needs to be an explanation
Everyone saying mileage is bad but thereās every possibility itās had every major component replaced by now to even make it to that mileage. Iād look at the history for sure if youāre interested. If itās a dealer negotiate a full 12 months warranty. Itās a wildly irresponsible first car but my cousins girlfriend had an M140i as a first car and never had an accident.
Every component replaced. Yeah right. Stick to what you know. A steering rack alone on these is 1800 quid
I didnāt say definitely did I? I said thereās a possibility. Could have been owned by someone with bottomless pockets who repaired any time a component started showing wear. Itās surprising to see one with such mileage, Iād expect itās been maintained decently to get there and not be a total shed.
Right. replacing every part on a car like that would easily amount to *at least* triple the original price.