T O P

  • By -

Myshkin1981

It looks like you applied with a wool dauber. It also looks like you applied just over the carving, then wiped it around a bit. These two things have combined to make the gel stain much more strongly over where it was directly applied. Next time try using a rag, and applying in a circular motion. That will get you a more even coloring


wardenstark8

I don't have a huge amount of experience with the antique gel, but I've seen it applied with a rag in a circular motion. Then wait a few minutes and wipe the excess off with a good amount of pressure.


Vegetable_Ad_4311

This is after wiping it off...


wardenstark8

Maybe try adding another heavy coat to even it out. This really isn't my area of expertise. I really like the tooling though. Great job.


No_Substance5930

Had you touched that spot with bare hands before you applied? Or had water been spilt there?


KitsunaKuraichi

To fix it? Not to much in my experience. You can wet a rag and wring it out so its damp and then gently wipe it off. That will take off some of the excess. You may have to put antique over the rest of it to get an even color. As for applying: Did you put a resist on beforehand? If so, did you let that resist dry all the way so it wasn't sticky or tacky when you applied antique gel?


Vegetable_Ad_4311

I tried to apply more to even it out a little. Chalk this up to a learning experience. I didn't use a resist, but I think I should have let the dye dry longer


KitsunaKuraichi

In my experience, unless you plan on turning the whole thing much darker to get rid of the splotches, you will need to put on a resist. I don't know what your plans for this are but here are some of the things I have learned. The point of a resist is to keep the color from drastically changing and getting the darker antique in the cutting and tooling to emphasize it. Usually this is done before you stitch since you will need to cover the entire thing and don't want to stain your stitches. Plus if your stitches get wet, it will rub off and stain other things. Even a light resist would help the antique be spread more easily. The dye drying may have helped with those splotchy bits but you still would have uneven parts from the antiquing. Don't forget to seal the antiquing afterwards though. It needs a layer on top to help stop the bleeding, regardless of what you choose to do.


CardMechanic

Did you use any kind of resist?


Motorpsycho11

Do you have a particular product you recommend for a resist or sealer?


Vegetable_Ad_4311

No resist. I think I should have let the pro dye dry longer.


Deeznutzcustomz

You need some resist so the antique doesn’t darken the whole piece like that. RTC Sheridan is what I have, but there’s lots of options. Once you’ve applied the resist and let it dry thoroughly, the antique will ONLY darken the tooling - so it creates a nice contrast and looks clean.


coyoteka

1. Before antique, you should apply a resist uniformly. Something like resolene. Then when you apply antique, it won't stick to the surface and will only get stuck in the depressions. 2. To remove antique, use tankote.


keylimegod

I wear a plastic glove and do it by hand …much easier to coat evenly…and don’t be afraid to put it on thick…


brandrikr

I always make sure the leather is wet before I apply it. Wipe it on in circular motions and immediately wipe it off.


jaytech_cfl

Dye, then apply a sealing layer such as wax or resist, turn antique. You need something that will prevent the antiquing from penetrating the leather.


howjoebujen

You should have applied a sealer to the leather. Let the sealer dry, then apply the antique for severall minutes, then wipe it off.


MSoultz

That canteen is pretty dang awesome!!! The splotch gives it character. Nice tooling work.


Vegetable_Ad_4311

Thanks


Cactus_milk44

You might be able to pull up some of that extra antique with some Tan Kote on a paper towel


Own_Professor_9951

If you oil your project first with olive oil or a good neets foot oil. That will help.