This is pretty common if your front thru axle isn't quite torqued enough. There is a fine line between under and over tightened. When it's too loose, turning increases forces and flex, which causes rub. Try tightening your thru axle a tad more (you'll likely need to recenter your caliper afterwards). If it's still doing it, you may need to true the rotor itself. Pay attention to Max torque for your axle
It’s worth noting that it’s only really safer in the case of a failure or an under-tightened connection. I don’t disagree with you, just trying to educate anyone who might read this thread!
All of the force holding the hub SHOULD be the clamping force. A properly tightened QR skewer won’t allow any more movement than a properly tightened TA.
But here’s what actually happens:
With a QR, someone thinks “surely it doesn’t have to be THAT tight.” With the hub not being clamped tightly the leverage from hard braking can rip the wheel right out of the fork/dropouts. The lever can also get caught by trail debris regardless of how you angle it.
With a TA, someone uses a multi-tool or one of those “handy” DT Swiss levers included with some bikes. The hub is likely clamped even less than the QR example above. But in this case when the leverage from braking tries to rip the wheel out, the TA provides a physical stop and keeps your wheel(and your teeth) in place.
TA also has the advantage of repeatability, there’s no cam mechanism to break or get gritty, and you can even do things like a floating axle.
tl;dr Tighten your axles properly.
Ah okay.
I did try that maybe i didnt do it right because it was rubbing when the tire was just spinning. Then i adjusted the caliper and now it doesnt rub while spinning. Could it be just not dead center?
This is pretty common if your front thru axle isn't quite torqued enough. There is a fine line between under and over tightened. When it's too loose, turning increases forces and flex, which causes rub. Try tightening your thru axle a tad more (you'll likely need to recenter your caliper afterwards). If it's still doing it, you may need to true the rotor itself. Pay attention to Max torque for your axle
Thankyou i will try this later, should i convert to a QR and if so how would i go about doing that.
No. Thru axle is superior and safer.
It’s worth noting that it’s only really safer in the case of a failure or an under-tightened connection. I don’t disagree with you, just trying to educate anyone who might read this thread! All of the force holding the hub SHOULD be the clamping force. A properly tightened QR skewer won’t allow any more movement than a properly tightened TA. But here’s what actually happens: With a QR, someone thinks “surely it doesn’t have to be THAT tight.” With the hub not being clamped tightly the leverage from hard braking can rip the wheel right out of the fork/dropouts. The lever can also get caught by trail debris regardless of how you angle it. With a TA, someone uses a multi-tool or one of those “handy” DT Swiss levers included with some bikes. The hub is likely clamped even less than the QR example above. But in this case when the leverage from braking tries to rip the wheel out, the TA provides a physical stop and keeps your wheel(and your teeth) in place. TA also has the advantage of repeatability, there’s no cam mechanism to break or get gritty, and you can even do things like a floating axle. tl;dr Tighten your axles properly.
Not normal. Can be fixed.
What would be the fix?
To center the brake caliper most probably.
Ah okay. I did try that maybe i didnt do it right because it was rubbing when the tire was just spinning. Then i adjusted the caliper and now it doesnt rub while spinning. Could it be just not dead center?
Spokes not torqued enough