Not sure why ur being downvoted, tire microplastic and particulate mass emissions from tire and brake wear are a huge issue in the tire industry right now.
Search up 6PPD and coho salmon, driven to extinction nearly.
I learned this after getting fresh PS4Sā on my rears last year. The roads were wet and I went sideways leaving the tire shop. Luckily I corrected it well enough to look like I knew what I was doing (I didnāt lol)
I learned that but I also learned ps4s tires suck if its not 90Ā° and sunny out. I could spin them like I was driving in ice any temp any day. My conti all seasons will not spin and give me far more traction on curvy roads now. And it's like summer tires on a hot day when driving in snow and ice. I've never slid on snow or ice and got to places with just the all seasons that AWD and 4x4 trucks and SUVs couldn't get to with winter tires
I've had the dws06 on my old mustang and now the dws06 + in my 17 GT pp. I. 275s square setup. They won't spin u less I clutch dump it in a corner but I can spin Michelin and 90% of summer tires brands on hot days with 315s. I need ekss width and get more traction and less weight with all seasons which is great
DWS06s are GOATed.
I ran them on my Mustang for DDing.
I had summer tires mounted on the stock wheels for auto x events.
On my Tesla 3, I had em too.
I put on some cheap tires cuz I had to move to start my new job and I was not planning on spending $1500 that weekend, but Iām kinda glad it happened that way cuz it just confirmed that the Contis are such a great tire for a DD car that has a little power.
Is it a manual or automatic? If itās an automatic it will pretty much do a burn out for you. Look in the owners manual for the line lock feature if itās an automatic
Line lock is for those who donāt know how to tiptoe.
OP, [hereās how you do it](https://youtu.be/8Jalfmo8Prc?feature=shared) with a manual utilising clutch gas and brakes.
PS: donāt get caught by the first troll attempt in the video, they do it proper in the end.
Standard tire break-in is 500mi to remove all mold release lubricants from the tire, and reinvigorate tire initial grip. [Good information from Tire Rack.](https://www.tirerack.com/upgrade-garage/how-do-i-break-in-tires)
My old car I went through 3 sets of tires before the shop realized the camber was off so definitely check that, especially if you've had some suspension work done.
Well my last set I went through tires bc Iām lowered almost 2ā and the alignment shop I go to says itās not adjustable but I know it is. My last nitto set I had for 16 months, approximately 17k miles. They cannot be rotated so they started to cup.
It dependsā¦you donāt say what year your Mustang is, but my 06 GT was lowered when I bought it used and my front tires were worn on the inside. I found camber was not adjusted, but first I had to buy camber adjustment boltsā¦they were like $35. Without those bolts camber was not adjustable to the degree it needed to be. You might have to buy some aftermarket adjustable equipment depending on your year. I think newer years have camber plates?
I have a 2017 Gt and itās lowered on coilovers. I have camber plates in the front. Iām talking about rear specifically. People say it has adjustment from the factory but my alignment guy says otherwise. Taking it somewhere next week to get the rear camber dialed in. Gonna see if it has enough adjustment before I buy aftermarket arms
https://preview.redd.it/stb005at426d1.jpeg?width=1290&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2aea847a93e273732b8d94367ccfd5f5860996d0
Ahaā¦.Iāve also read that lowering the car can skew your driveshaft angle. Thereās supposed to be some part that puts it back into alignment, but I havenāt worried about it enough to address it.
Anywayā¦yes, I think it may be a matter of it being adjustable but maybe not enough to account for lowering 2ā. Good luck!
These cars are now IRS, the driveshaft doesnāt move when you lower the S550 because the differential is in a subframe and never moves.
The older live axle cars, that is a problem when lowering.
Oh yeah, I forgot about that! Thatās why lowering doesnāt affect my rear camber but the driveshaft angle changes. I forgot my suspension is prehistoric compared to the newer onesā¦.lol. Thanks!
A lot of newer vehicles are slotted for cam bolts but dont actually have cam bolts from the factory. Which is why they arenāt adjustable. You gotta buy the actual cam bolt to actually before you can adjust the camber.
IRS should be able adjustable for camber and toe. If you are lowered 2 inches you may have maxed out the factory adjustment range. The ghetto way to do it is make adjustment holes in the subframe bigger, the correct way is adjustable arms or different style adjustment bolts. You want the toe to be exactly even side to side both front and back. Toe differences side to side are primarily what makes cars pull left or right. Camber difference can as well but itās gotta be a big difference.
There is literally a slotted spot for the rear camber arm in the subframe. I wouldnāt trust your alignment guy if he doesnāt know that.
Youāre supposed to buy camber lockouts when you get adjustable arms so they donāt slip in the first place.
And if youāre lowered 2ā youāll definitely need the rear arms because there is not enough adjustment to do it without.
Most tire shops are lazy and/or under qualified. That means all they will do is load a profile on their computer to align your car to factory specs regardless of what you have installed or asked for. Find a specialized shop and your alignment troubles will disappear
Just me with peformance tyres but I'd always do a little burnout to at least remove the sticker and the first layer of what ever they put on them to preserve them, gets em a lil warmer for the drive too.
If its auto, its easy, brake and gas at the same time,(making sure you've got traction control/ESP etc off) let the wheels spin, cause some smoke, burnout done. If it's manual, rev it up, dump the clutch and slowly and smoothly transition from the clutch to the brake and same as above, let the wheels spin, cause smoke, done. I may have created a monster after this haha.
Most new tires will feel kinda oily on install, this is 2 things. Chemically: they may or may not use some kind of preservative or mold agent which can be present on new rubber that can leech out in storage, making the tire slick. Mechanically: the "grain" of the tire sticks to the "grain" of the road... When fresh out the box, they will have very minimal texture on the surface to grip the road with. Driving on them a hundred or 200 miles and putting a few heat cycles in them will give them the texture they need to grip up.
Did they put them on with the correct ROTATION? Those are probably one rotation oriented tires and the sipes look backwards to me from your picture.
Easy to tell; there should be an arrow showing the direction of rotation and it should point to the front of the car on both sides.
If it doesn't, take it back and have them correct it; it could be as easy as they put the L on R and vice versa; all they have to do is swap L for R or vice versa.
No worries! Tire shops make mistakes. I ALWAYS check and go over my tires before I even leave the shop when the stuff is done. :) I appreciate the insight though! Definitely couldāve been a possibility
Price on tires doesnāt scare me tbh. Might be because Iām desensitized from the $500+ tires I sell to Corvette owners at work, but Iāve also been very happy with the prior sets of Michelin PSS/PS4S Iāve had on previous cars and wheels. The other thing is Iām pretty limited in options by the sizes Iām running (285/35R19 and 305/35R19).
you'll need your alignment adjusted. 555s need a bit of camber and toe to hold. I know this explicitly as I zero'd out for extending wear between track days and ended up sliding all over the place. re-adjusted back and they were fine.
I have -2Ā° of camber haha.
https://preview.redd.it/9b7bxan3f66d1.jpeg?width=1290&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=32a866e2ec9908db7c64144c505ffb14b0b22d21
Getting it realigned next week.
[https://www.imboc.com/attachments/align-s550-2-pdf.70425/](https://www.imboc.com/attachments/align-s550-2-pdf.70425/)
That's stock for all versions of S550. Feel free to get as aggressive as you want. What I can do is recommend the lifetime alignment package at Firestone - it's for the life of the car, it's $200, and you can re-align as many times as you want on as many tires as you want. I go before and after track weekends to get a little more aggressive grip, then back it down when i get back so I can take it when I want and not feel guilty about shredding tires.
Have you tried deflating them just a bit? You may have to play around with the psi until you find a medium that would allow you to drive fast on these. Too much psi on tires can cause some tires to slip at hirer speeds.
Also if your going to do any ā spirited drivingā make sure you get you tires warm before you push it so you donāt pull a ā mustangā
Have fun in that pony.
Mold release. Had a buddy pick up his street bike from the shop. Pulled out on the highway a little hot leaving the bike shop. Laid it down right there. It was a sad day turning around and going right back in to order plastics.
All new tires are a bit slick and should be driven with more caution the first hundred or so miles. Esspecially performance tires.
This op! It's gotta wear down all those chemicals that preserves it for God knows how long before it can perform at its optimal standard
Need to release all those microplastics into the air first
Those are actually micro rubbers
Sounds like an unfortunate item on someone's shopping list.
https://libarts.olemiss.edu/microplastic-pollution-from-tires-found-in-air-near-roadways/#:~:text=%E2%80%9CTire%20wear%20particles%20generally%20fall,does%20all%20that%20tread%20go%3F&text=%E2%80%9CIt%20breaks%20off%20into%20particles%20and%20gets%20into%20the%20environment.%E2%80%9D
Not sure why ur being downvoted, tire microplastic and particulate mass emissions from tire and brake wear are a huge issue in the tire industry right now. Search up 6PPD and coho salmon, driven to extinction nearly.
People get really mad when environmental issues are brought up even as a joke because Murdoch and his consequences have been a disaster for society.
OP is a Mustang owner so he should save them.
People in Australia standing next to burnout competition cars 
We are a tirebrained society
That's why you do a burn out, get them stripes off like God intended.
Word up. Thank you guys for the help šš¼šš¼
I learned this after getting fresh PS4Sā on my rears last year. The roads were wet and I went sideways leaving the tire shop. Luckily I corrected it well enough to look like I knew what I was doing (I didnāt lol)
lmao same. it had just started raining and i almost swapped ends leaving the parking lot.
Give them the āI meant to do thatā smile.
Youāre in a Mustang, everyone knows you didnāt mean to do that. š«£
I learned that but I also learned ps4s tires suck if its not 90Ā° and sunny out. I could spin them like I was driving in ice any temp any day. My conti all seasons will not spin and give me far more traction on curvy roads now. And it's like summer tires on a hot day when driving in snow and ice. I've never slid on snow or ice and got to places with just the all seasons that AWD and 4x4 trucks and SUVs couldn't get to with winter tires
Yeah Iām going with DWS06 plus next time I need tires. The Michelins donāt last long enough for the price and driving last winter was brutal
I've had the dws06 on my old mustang and now the dws06 + in my 17 GT pp. I. 275s square setup. They won't spin u less I clutch dump it in a corner but I can spin Michelin and 90% of summer tires brands on hot days with 315s. I need ekss width and get more traction and less weight with all seasons which is great
DWS06s are GOATed. I ran them on my Mustang for DDing. I had summer tires mounted on the stock wheels for auto x events. On my Tesla 3, I had em too. I put on some cheap tires cuz I had to move to start my new job and I was not planning on spending $1500 that weekend, but Iām kinda glad it happened that way cuz it just confirmed that the Contis are such a great tire for a DD car that has a little power.
Do a good John Force style burnout and they'll get sticky.
Give them a bit. They are kind of slick when new. I ran the same tires for a long time. Each new set was always slick at first.
Iām at around 190 miles on these tires at this pointā¦ still doing it. Anytime I should look forward to? Iām worried the problem is greater.
Do a burnout
I donāt know how lol
You got it just go for it
Is it a manual or automatic? If itās an automatic it will pretty much do a burn out for you. Look in the owners manual for the line lock feature if itās an automatic
No itās a 6 speed manual
RPM to 4k and drop the clutch. Or use Line Lock
Line lock is for those who donāt know how to tiptoe. OP, [hereās how you do it](https://youtu.be/8Jalfmo8Prc?feature=shared) with a manual utilising clutch gas and brakes. PS: donāt get caught by the first troll attempt in the video, they do it proper in the end.
Is there an actual benefit/reason to doing it in 2nd gear from a stand still? I get my tires spinning well in 1st gear, dumping clutch as 3k rpm...
Less aggressive gearing, makes the burnout harder to start but easier to control afterwards.
Anything above and beyond slower and more controllable acceleration at the end of the burnout? Thanks!
No, not really. That's basically it.
Why is this getting downvoted lol reddit
Standard tire break-in is 500mi to remove all mold release lubricants from the tire, and reinvigorate tire initial grip. [Good information from Tire Rack.](https://www.tirerack.com/upgrade-garage/how-do-i-break-in-tires)
My old car I went through 3 sets of tires before the shop realized the camber was off so definitely check that, especially if you've had some suspension work done.
Well my last set I went through tires bc Iām lowered almost 2ā and the alignment shop I go to says itās not adjustable but I know it is. My last nitto set I had for 16 months, approximately 17k miles. They cannot be rotated so they started to cup.
It dependsā¦you donāt say what year your Mustang is, but my 06 GT was lowered when I bought it used and my front tires were worn on the inside. I found camber was not adjusted, but first I had to buy camber adjustment boltsā¦they were like $35. Without those bolts camber was not adjustable to the degree it needed to be. You might have to buy some aftermarket adjustable equipment depending on your year. I think newer years have camber plates?
I have a 2017 Gt and itās lowered on coilovers. I have camber plates in the front. Iām talking about rear specifically. People say it has adjustment from the factory but my alignment guy says otherwise. Taking it somewhere next week to get the rear camber dialed in. Gonna see if it has enough adjustment before I buy aftermarket arms https://preview.redd.it/stb005at426d1.jpeg?width=1290&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2aea847a93e273732b8d94367ccfd5f5860996d0
Ahaā¦.Iāve also read that lowering the car can skew your driveshaft angle. Thereās supposed to be some part that puts it back into alignment, but I havenāt worried about it enough to address it. Anywayā¦yes, I think it may be a matter of it being adjustable but maybe not enough to account for lowering 2ā. Good luck!
These cars are now IRS, the driveshaft doesnāt move when you lower the S550 because the differential is in a subframe and never moves. The older live axle cars, that is a problem when lowering.
Oh yeah, I forgot about that! Thatās why lowering doesnāt affect my rear camber but the driveshaft angle changes. I forgot my suspension is prehistoric compared to the newer onesā¦.lol. Thanks!
Hopefully itās enough to be able to knock it so my inner tires donāt give out so soon.
A lot of newer vehicles are slotted for cam bolts but dont actually have cam bolts from the factory. Which is why they arenāt adjustable. You gotta buy the actual cam bolt to actually before you can adjust the camber.
IRS should be able adjustable for camber and toe. If you are lowered 2 inches you may have maxed out the factory adjustment range. The ghetto way to do it is make adjustment holes in the subframe bigger, the correct way is adjustable arms or different style adjustment bolts. You want the toe to be exactly even side to side both front and back. Toe differences side to side are primarily what makes cars pull left or right. Camber difference can as well but itās gotta be a big difference.
There is literally a slotted spot for the rear camber arm in the subframe. I wouldnāt trust your alignment guy if he doesnāt know that. Youāre supposed to buy camber lockouts when you get adjustable arms so they donāt slip in the first place. And if youāre lowered 2ā youāll definitely need the rear arms because there is not enough adjustment to do it without.
Most tire shops are lazy and/or under qualified. That means all they will do is load a profile on their computer to align your car to factory specs regardless of what you have installed or asked for. Find a specialized shop and your alignment troubles will disappear
Just me with peformance tyres but I'd always do a little burnout to at least remove the sticker and the first layer of what ever they put on them to preserve them, gets em a lil warmer for the drive too.
Iām gonna be honest with you, I have no idea how to do a burn out.
If its auto, its easy, brake and gas at the same time,(making sure you've got traction control/ESP etc off) let the wheels spin, cause some smoke, burnout done. If it's manual, rev it up, dump the clutch and slowly and smoothly transition from the clutch to the brake and same as above, let the wheels spin, cause smoke, done. I may have created a monster after this haha.
Yeah itās probably for the best that I donāt know how bc Iāll be doing it all the time š
Hahaha yeah it does become very addictive, and they are expensive tyres lol, but a little burnout here n there will be fine
Hard on drive trainā¦ not a recommended everyday activity.
Motorcycles are worse yet. Feels like you're riding on roller skates for about a hundred miles.
Gotta wear off those _chicken strips_!
Theyāre not fully broken in yet
Well just give in and do one burn out. lol
make sure your wheels are mounted right lol. what kinda tires are you coming from?
Same tires. I donāt recall them doing this before but I also push the car harder now than I was previously.
Most new tires will feel kinda oily on install, this is 2 things. Chemically: they may or may not use some kind of preservative or mold agent which can be present on new rubber that can leech out in storage, making the tire slick. Mechanically: the "grain" of the tire sticks to the "grain" of the road... When fresh out the box, they will have very minimal texture on the surface to grip the road with. Driving on them a hundred or 200 miles and putting a few heat cycles in them will give them the texture they need to grip up.
The tires grip up if I stomp on it in a low gear but it still has that sway back and forth like Iām sliding on ice :/
I have these tires. They take a bit to warm up.
Did they put them on with the correct ROTATION? Those are probably one rotation oriented tires and the sipes look backwards to me from your picture. Easy to tell; there should be an arrow showing the direction of rotation and it should point to the front of the car on both sides. If it doesn't, take it back and have them correct it; it could be as easy as they put the L on R and vice versa; all they have to do is swap L for R or vice versa.
Yes the tires are directional and theyāre put on correctly lol
Good. I'm an engineer; worst word in engineering is assume! So I don't assume anything and always ask!š
No worries! Tire shops make mistakes. I ALWAYS check and go over my tires before I even leave the shop when the stuff is done. :) I appreciate the insight though! Definitely couldāve been a possibility
Thatās what burnouts are for lol
Hate to tell you bud but the 555g2 are ASS. They aren't meant to go on the rear.
Agreed. Have them on 07 gt500. Had to Buy the R2 drag radial. Use these during 3 month rainy season only.
Theyāve been just fine for me. :)
As your car doesn't track straight lol
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
Theyāre brand new tires, thatās the only time Iāve ever had issues with them lol
These tires are notoriously bad unfortunately but just to be safe get your alignment checkedĀ
Yep, theyāre terrible. Plan on going with Michelin Pilot Super Sports once I wear through mine.
Look into General GMax. Very much recommended and rated high, yet low price. Z rated.
Price on tires doesnāt scare me tbh. Might be because Iām desensitized from the $500+ tires I sell to Corvette owners at work, but Iāve also been very happy with the prior sets of Michelin PSS/PS4S Iāve had on previous cars and wheels. The other thing is Iām pretty limited in options by the sizes Iām running (285/35R19 and 305/35R19).
Yeah we donāt have very many options up in 305/35r19.
I donāt like them either. I could never hook unless the pavement was really hot. Wet pavement was a bit sketchy
I havenāt had the worst luck with them.
They are fine they just don't put any power down
They were great on my Terminator, would get traction halfway through 2nd. Granted I went with RIIs this time around for 1st gear traction
I really donāt see the hate they get, i have them all around and can really push them into turns and have yet to have a problem.
Those were some of the worst tires I ever put on my Mustang.
Do a burn out, that should clear it up. Those tires are the best IMO.
you'll need your alignment adjusted. 555s need a bit of camber and toe to hold. I know this explicitly as I zero'd out for extending wear between track days and ended up sliding all over the place. re-adjusted back and they were fine.
I have -2Ā° of camber haha. https://preview.redd.it/9b7bxan3f66d1.jpeg?width=1290&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=32a866e2ec9908db7c64144c505ffb14b0b22d21 Getting it realigned next week.
how's your toe? I can look up my alignment if you want a comparison - i'm not a standard GT but it's basically the same just more aggressive.
As far as I know itās just factory spec
[https://www.imboc.com/attachments/align-s550-2-pdf.70425/](https://www.imboc.com/attachments/align-s550-2-pdf.70425/) That's stock for all versions of S550. Feel free to get as aggressive as you want. What I can do is recommend the lifetime alignment package at Firestone - it's for the life of the car, it's $200, and you can re-align as many times as you want on as many tires as you want. I go before and after track weekends to get a little more aggressive grip, then back it down when i get back so I can take it when I want and not feel guilty about shredding tires.
Looks like NITTO NT 555 G2sā¦ they suck sorry. Found out the same after I already bought them for my GTO.
Iāve had them the entire two years Iāve had the car and have had zero issues besides when they were brand new. To each their own
Have you tried deflating them just a bit? You may have to play around with the psi until you find a medium that would allow you to drive fast on these. Too much psi on tires can cause some tires to slip at hirer speeds.
They were at 41 and now at 33 cold. Thatās the recommended PSI and I drove them at 33-34 when I had them before I replaced them
Yeah the tires should not be slipping at the recommended psi.
Also these Nittos suck lol
Also those nitros need to heat up to get sticky. Same with the pilot sport cup 2 tires. The pilot sport S4 not so much.
Also if your going to do any ā spirited drivingā make sure you get you tires warm before you push it so you donāt pull a ā mustangā Have fun in that pony.
Mold release. Had a buddy pick up his street bike from the shop. Pulled out on the highway a little hot leaving the bike shop. Laid it down right there. It was a sad day turning around and going right back in to order plastics.
Idea itās a brand new tire, do a burnout then you wonāt have rear tire issues lmfao
Yeah ālmfaoā some of yall are so quick to assume everyone can just ādo a burnoutā and thatāll āsolve my issueā i hate the internet
Lmfao I was fucking making a joke plus anyone with a mustang can do a burnout quite easily
so mustangs just doing mustang things?