Pots don’t need a “drainage” layer in the bottom. This is an old practice that has been debunked by modern soil science. Soil holds water at the bottom of a pot and forms a perched water table because capillary pressure holds the water between the fine soil particles. When you add a “drainage” layer, water doesn’t want to flow from the fine-textured soil with high capillary pressure into the coarse-textured bottom layer with low capillary pressure. So the “drainage” material just takes up space and pushes the perched water table higher up the soil profile. That means less usable root volume.
Soil all the way to the bottom is best.
Might be OK, but it will compact over time.
The green parts have quite a pungent smell though if crushed between your fingers?
These oils could retard the growth of some plants (certainly for example it is not recommended to use fresh pine needles). So normally it would be better to let the material breakdown a bit first before using.
I would use it as mulch. Putting it in the bottom is a recipe for root rot and nitrogen issues.
Imitate nature for best results: plant matter falls on the surface. It doesn’t get mixed in unless a big animal is digging a den and throws dirt on top of the mulch layer or there’s a landslide, and either of those events is going to damage the surrounding plants.
Probably better to let them dry and brown a bit. I'm sure either way will be fine.
Keep in mind, evergreens are typically acidic so if you're using a peat base I would use a mildly alkalizing lime. I think dolomite is 7 pH dont use harder limes in pot. Or even better if your topsoil is good texture and not acidic, mix that with peat 30-40% and you should be good. That will also give good micronutes and innoculate with local soil microbes.
Coco coir is pricier and finicky with nutrient retention but that's a fairly neutral pH.
Better and less disruptive as mulch or composted. If you were filling a raised garden bed it might be ideal but not something as small as this pot in the photo
Pots don’t need a “drainage” layer in the bottom. This is an old practice that has been debunked by modern soil science. Soil holds water at the bottom of a pot and forms a perched water table because capillary pressure holds the water between the fine soil particles. When you add a “drainage” layer, water doesn’t want to flow from the fine-textured soil with high capillary pressure into the coarse-textured bottom layer with low capillary pressure. So the “drainage” material just takes up space and pushes the perched water table higher up the soil profile. That means less usable root volume. Soil all the way to the bottom is best.
My mom is not going to want to hear that
It’s HARD to admit you were taught wrong as a kid and did it wrong for decades
Haha I’m not even going to consider sharing this with my grandma she might excommunicate me from the family
Thank you for this simple explanation! I knew we no longer want to do drainage layers but couldn’t remember WHY. Appreciate you walking through it.
lmao this is the only concept i still remember from my soil science class
That seriously blows my mind. Kinda like conditioning the soil just around the rootball
Thank you.
I knew this was true but now I know the reason
Might be OK, but it will compact over time. The green parts have quite a pungent smell though if crushed between your fingers? These oils could retard the growth of some plants (certainly for example it is not recommended to use fresh pine needles). So normally it would be better to let the material breakdown a bit first before using.
What does green material do when you bury it? It composts. What does composting create? Heat. What do roots not like? Heat.
I would use it as mulch. Putting it in the bottom is a recipe for root rot and nitrogen issues. Imitate nature for best results: plant matter falls on the surface. It doesn’t get mixed in unless a big animal is digging a den and throws dirt on top of the mulch layer or there’s a landslide, and either of those events is going to damage the surrounding plants.
Probably better to let them dry and brown a bit. I'm sure either way will be fine. Keep in mind, evergreens are typically acidic so if you're using a peat base I would use a mildly alkalizing lime. I think dolomite is 7 pH dont use harder limes in pot. Or even better if your topsoil is good texture and not acidic, mix that with peat 30-40% and you should be good. That will also give good micronutes and innoculate with local soil microbes. Coco coir is pricier and finicky with nutrient retention but that's a fairly neutral pH.
If that's cedar trimmings, they may inhibit your plant's growth.
Use as mulch for acid loving plants: blueberries, azaleas, etc.
Better and less disruptive as mulch or composted. If you were filling a raised garden bed it might be ideal but not something as small as this pot in the photo