So if I was to install a P trap instead of the S I have, is there a good example of how to do it to the floor? All examples I see online are into the wall but that’s not possible here.
There is a way to do this. You will need some glue and primer, 1 1.5" coupling, a piece of 1.5" pipe, 1 pvc 1.5" tee, 1 mini vent, 1 1.5" trap adapter and P-trap kit. It's a really simple fix. You should never use an S trap. If you have any questions, let me know. Good luck!
It may be protected already. I've been fighting the 5 GFCIs in a line mindset in my family for a while. They are like "my GFCIs keep tripping", I come over and see literally 5 of them across the counter, all on one circuit.
I know they shouldn't trip each other, but it seems like if there are more than 3 on a circuit, they get really finicky. All while providing 0 increases to protection
If you wire a GFCI downstream from another GFCI, you don't wire it to the load side of the first GFCI. That is what causes problems. There's usually a sticker on the GFCI telling you where the load is, it's yellow. You can feed regular outlets downstream off the load side of the GFCI and they will be protected, but if it trips then the person who tripped it will need to go reset the GFCI. Not a big deal but you get a lot of calls from people who have no idea why the outlet isn't working, even with a sticker on the cover saying "GFCI protected" lol. Sometimes it's just less hassle in the long run.
I was just about the post the same thing as you. If so, it ideally should have a “GFCI PROTECTED” sticker on it, but of course this is the real world. 🤷♂️
That's a bit extreme. Water getting in there under a cabinet would require a flood. The National Electrical Code (NEC) does not require a garbage disposal to have GFCI protection. The dishwasher is likely hard wired.
>Water getting in there under a cabinet would require a flood.
No? This is completely wrong
It can leak through a deteriorated sink gasket. The deck plate. The faucet body
NEC does not require it but after having my water line spring a leak directly onto/above the outlet almost a foot away closer to the sink I was glad it was there!
I have zero idea how you went from cucumbers to zucchini, butt, ok.
Dr., "we pulled out a zucchini, not a cucumber!"
You: "Keep digging."
Sorry, I lost it just writing that! Lol
He can make it a P trap with an Air admittance valve.
Or with the S trap, any time you dump a lot of water down the drain, let it go down completely and then run the water for a minute to refill the trap.
Why do you make people imagine and try to see the reflection in a round shiny pipe, rather than just take a better photo?
BTW, if you shop at Ace hardware instead of Home Depot, you can get real good advice from that kind retired plumber working the plumbing isle.
I rebuilt my whole sink, plumbing when I removed a dead disposal. Those guys hooked me up with all the proper fittings, etc. However I went the other way than you. I took out the decrepit disintegrated brass pipes and went all pvc. Channel locks and a hack saw was all that's needed.
Why am S-trap? Yes they are illegal by ANY Plumbing code. You have perfectly good pvc to pipe exactly what you need. Pvc up to a santee with an AAV and the branch to the sink drain. Done!
Other than the fact that it’s an S trap and not a p trap and that he could have use a trap adapter there isn’t anything wrong with this it doesn’t leak it is a proper fitting he could’ve used a copper to pvc fitting instead of the pvc to pvc .
That’s my take on the situation
No one suggested not using a band at all. Glue a (looks like 1 1/2") desanco and use the standard compression ring and nut. Like so.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/NIBCO-1-1-2-in-PVC-DWV-Hub-x-Slip-Joint-Trap-Adapter-C48017HD112/100345781
Here’s the fernco style fitting that will actually fit correctly:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Proflex-1-1-2-in-Neoprene-Shielded-Coupling-P3002-150/100372291
Note it’s 1 1/2” but one side is tubular.
Still need a ptrap of course but that’s what would fit in the current configuration.
It’s not right. At the very least it should be 1-1/2” trap adapter in place of the fernco coupling. S-traps are no longer code compliant but they’re functional.
Wow! Another heretic! People talk about S-traps like your sink will blow up and kill you or something. As you point out, they actually do work… To a point. If you dump a bunch of water down them at once, they will probably gurgle a bunch at the end, and siphon some of the water out of the trap, but probably leave just enough to keep out the sewer gas. Clearly, this is not a good situation, but it's not the end of the world, either.
For under $20, why risk mold and sewer gas? Get a ptrap and the right couplings. This probably costed more than just doing it right. Also it already has water under it.
It'll work but shielded clamps like this are ideal..not the right size but same idea
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Fernco-3001-1125-1-1-2-x-1-1-4-ProFlex-Coupling-Cast-Iron-Plastic-Steel-to-Copper-or-1-Plastic?utm_source=google_ad&utm_medium=Shopping_tm&utm_campaign=Shopping_TM_New_users&gclid=Cj0KCQjwuZGnBhD1ARIsACxbAVi1hpPLlwR-20j-a2IaC1SKZsNcuAXDLDSLdQqxn7OxtsRTQFXmm5QaApEpEALw_wcB
Anytime we transition, at least in my jurisdiction has to be shielded, an inspector would look at those regular ferncos and fail you..I've seen it. Also no hub clamps need to be 4 bands underground here
Any idea what the benefit would be here? My understand underground was to protect the rubber from rock or Vermin or ground shifting. Though thinking about it, I could see some horizontal cars where it would help if the pipes weren't properly supported
For me its because the gasket in the clamp is made for the diameter of the pipe, maybe creates a better seal maybe not. But look how much that clamp had to be tightened to fit the tubular
For me its because the gasket in the clamp is made for the diameter of the pipe, maybe creates a better seal maybe not. But look how much that clamp had to be tightened to fit the tubular
Same for me, but going from inch and a half brass to PVC the shield is going to kink up in spots and may leak. He would be better off putting a trap adapter on there. As for the s trap he might want to call a plumber to fix that one.
How? It's basically not going to have any water touching it crome pipeis inserted 5in parst the Ferco. I've seen them used on 4in sewer maybe where they are constantly touching shit water and they don't smell.
Sure, used properly and in the correct application, a fernco is fine. But that's 1½ tubular to 1½ IPS - two very different ODs; but the fernco is a straight 1½ IPS. So either the tubular piece is inserted partway into the fernco, or it extends into the PVC section - either way, OP's created a fouling area between the tubular and the fernco.
Even if it never backs up, little bits of whatever's going down that drain are going to deposit there. And when that drain does clog up, maybe way downstream even, all sorts of shit is gonna get impacted into that space. And all that nastiness is going to eat that 22 ga brass for breakfast.
And, of course, over-tightening that strap is eventually going to split the fernco.
If OP is committed to a fernco, Home Depot sells a fernco for that precise application. But as has been said, gluing a trap adapter on there is a 5-minute job.
The crome tends to rot out up at the bottom of the S-trap. You could have used plastic they last way longer than crome.
Otherwise, at this union they make an adapter that goes into the PVC that the crome/PVC pipe would slip into. A plastic washer gets tighten down and tightens the seal between the 2.
I second this , is it purdy or proper no , would I install it as a professional no but if it's Sunday and I'm fuckin around at home and it's whats in my truck you bet your ass I'm using it
No both are 1.5” ID, but the metal is just much thinner than the pvc. That’s kind of why I was posting here. It’s ratcheted down real tight and there’s no kink/crease in the fernco when tightening that much.
I forgot to add, if it matters, it’s at a wet bar that won’t be used as often as other sinks in the house. Plus I’ll be storing a good amount of booze down there so I’ll be in there frequently and can keep an eye on it.
I've read that you've got an S trap in this somewhere?
The rubber coupler is meh, its not how this is done and more expensive than the proper fitting, but likely works just fine and that's the point right?
I'd be more concerned with the S trap, these absolutely suck and don't meet code anywhere for good reason. I'd redo this for that reason alone, so a proper P with a sure-vent tucked up under the counter.
Out of curiosity, how tight should that couple be tightened. Is there a rule of thumb? I've got a similar situation, but going into the wall. I'm worried about damaging the pipe of tightening too much
It is a temporary fix after hours or on a weekend so you dont have to pay out the ass for a plumber. It isnt a permenant fix. I am assuming you P trap is up higher but if you dont have one installed you will want one unless you like your house smelling like ass.
No trap visible, vent may be(if one exists) may be in rhe wall above the flood level rim of the sink and Fernco-type coupling only approved below groung.
I have one of these couplings on my sewer pump. It allows them to join the pump through the cap to the house plumbing. The plumber just changed the cap to plastic cap, on the tank. He failed to tighten the bottom clamp…. It blew off one day and sprayed sewage everywhere while I was gone. I heard it the following day. Mold (sewage mold..) had already set in. I’m remediating now. I tightened every one of those bastards under my house.
When we replaced the old plumbing in my house dude had a DIY setup with a coupler just like that that had probably been there a few decades. No leaking though.
It's not sightly, but... as the Chrome pipe is in the PVC pipe, then it will never leak. The coupling then acts as a seal for sewer gases which is code compliant however, there are tidier ways of doing the job.
They make couplers like that for PVC to metal. They reduced in size slightly so it fits better. I would recommend that but a compression fitting would probably be a better option. It just glues onto the PVC then there’s a gasket, and I thread fitting that squeezes the metal and holding it in place
Is there a P-Trap that we don’t see anywhere? Otherwise you risk sewer gas and smells getting into the house.
So if I was to install a P trap instead of the S I have, is there a good example of how to do it to the floor? All examples I see online are into the wall but that’s not possible here.
There is a way to do this. You will need some glue and primer, 1 1.5" coupling, a piece of 1.5" pipe, 1 pvc 1.5" tee, 1 mini vent, 1 1.5" trap adapter and P-trap kit. It's a really simple fix. You should never use an S trap. If you have any questions, let me know. Good luck!
I think you lost op at the word primer. Good effort though lol
Ok, I snorted.
We’ve all snorted the primer. Kinda hard not to.
How else do people get through the day…
How do you think Thanos became purple? Just a plumber who couldn’t stop his addiction.
This is the way
This is the way
Are s traps not common for pipes going down, instead of the wall?
They are commonly used. However, they are never code compliant.
Is an air admittance valve the same thing as a 'mini vent'?
[удалено]
Vent just needs to be 4" above the weir
Side note: Replace that outlet with a proper GFCI asap before any water/moisture gets in it, the day it does you'll be very unhappy and/or dead.
Lol always fun when OP just asks “is this acceptable” and the general answer is “no, nothing in this picture is acceptable”
It may be protected already. I've been fighting the 5 GFCIs in a line mindset in my family for a while. They are like "my GFCIs keep tripping", I come over and see literally 5 of them across the counter, all on one circuit. I know they shouldn't trip each other, but it seems like if there are more than 3 on a circuit, they get really finicky. All while providing 0 increases to protection
If you wire a GFCI downstream from another GFCI, you don't wire it to the load side of the first GFCI. That is what causes problems. There's usually a sticker on the GFCI telling you where the load is, it's yellow. You can feed regular outlets downstream off the load side of the GFCI and they will be protected, but if it trips then the person who tripped it will need to go reset the GFCI. Not a big deal but you get a lot of calls from people who have no idea why the outlet isn't working, even with a sticker on the cover saying "GFCI protected" lol. Sometimes it's just less hassle in the long run.
I was just about the post the same thing as you. If so, it ideally should have a “GFCI PROTECTED” sticker on it, but of course this is the real world. 🤷♂️
It could be connected to another GFCI.
That's a bit extreme. Water getting in there under a cabinet would require a flood. The National Electrical Code (NEC) does not require a garbage disposal to have GFCI protection. The dishwasher is likely hard wired.
>Water getting in there under a cabinet would require a flood. No? This is completely wrong It can leak through a deteriorated sink gasket. The deck plate. The faucet body
NEC does not require it but after having my water line spring a leak directly onto/above the outlet almost a foot away closer to the sink I was glad it was there!
It may not require it implicitly. Garbage disposals serve sinks and any receptacle within 6 feet of a sink requires GFI protection.
The gfci can be upstream [power source] of the outlet to protect more of the circuit. It's even better if it's in an easier to reset spot.
There is an S trap, which I know isn’t legal I’ve read? But they sell them in Home Depot so I bought and used that
Bruh that should not be a gauge of should I use this or not. Home depot sells so much shit that's just simply for hack jobs.
"But they sell machetes at Home Depot" - OP on trial for slashing
"But they sell fertilizer and fuel oil at Home Depot!" -Guy blowing up a government building in Oklahoma City
"But they sell chainsaws" - the guy wearing your mom's face in Texas
"But there was a man out front with cucumbers" - guy getting zucchini removed from his ass at the hospital.
I have zero idea how you went from cucumbers to zucchini, butt, ok. Dr., "we pulled out a zucchini, not a cucumber!" You: "Keep digging." Sorry, I lost it just writing that! Lol
Omg, I'm dying. Tears from my eyes laughing
Haha! Right that took a turn. Right to the gutter! Lol
question is was he selling them? or merely giving away samples
Ok, if they extracted a cucumber, fair call, but where did he get the illicit zucchini?
That was from last week.
An S trap? Are you trying to trigger everyone in this sub? Lol
You obviously aren’t a regular here
Where is it
Just above the top of the pic. You can actually see the reflection of the S trap in the chrome at the top of the pipe in the pic.
There's a reason 'S' traps are illegal, they siphon the water out of the trap allowing gases to come up through the sink.
Figure out how to put in a P trap and make it legit!
He can make it a P trap with an Air admittance valve. Or with the S trap, any time you dump a lot of water down the drain, let it go down completely and then run the water for a minute to refill the trap.
Studor vents are not code in a home where I'm from because they eventually fail.🤷♂️
I have made half a dozen comments about AAV and I always mention that they are not always code. The one time I don't mention it, I get called on it.
Why do you make people imagine and try to see the reflection in a round shiny pipe, rather than just take a better photo? BTW, if you shop at Ace hardware instead of Home Depot, you can get real good advice from that kind retired plumber working the plumbing isle. I rebuilt my whole sink, plumbing when I removed a dead disposal. Those guys hooked me up with all the proper fittings, etc. However I went the other way than you. I took out the decrepit disintegrated brass pipes and went all pvc. Channel locks and a hack saw was all that's needed.
I’m not making anyone imagine anything, the picture was of the boot, which was the reason for the post.
Why am S-trap? Yes they are illegal by ANY Plumbing code. You have perfectly good pvc to pipe exactly what you need. Pvc up to a santee with an AAV and the branch to the sink drain. Done!
An s trap is the same as a straight pipe. You need to change your system.
It’s only smells…
All that’s needed here is a trap adapter. Get rid of the boot.
Came to say that.... The proper repair on this super easy. One glue joint with a pipe to trap adapter and boom! done.
And keep the S-trap? Am I missing something?
No S-traps... they violate code. P-Trap is what you need.
That’s what I was leading to
Well yeah, a complete repair would entail a san tee with an aav. Easy diy but he was only asking ab the boot🤷🏼♂️
YUP!
I also enjoy the smell of sewer gas.
The amount of people here saying this is fine is crazy to me on a plumbing sub lol
I’m convinced that sewer gas has gained sentience and is actively trying to infiltrate peoples homes by posting “it’s fine” in this sub.
Too many non-plumbers make dumbass comments in this sub, half of them are wrong on every single post
Thank you. Holy shit, why did I have to scroll so deep to find this.
Depends bro, was it done on Friday?
Sorry man I’ve been huffing yellow glue all day. Looks good to me
[I mean...](https://i.imgur.com/c4jt321.png)
I’m not a plumber, it just comes up on my feed and I was like “pft no.”
Other than the fact that it’s an S trap and not a p trap and that he could have use a trap adapter there isn’t anything wrong with this it doesn’t leak it is a proper fitting he could’ve used a copper to pvc fitting instead of the pvc to pvc . That’s my take on the situation
Besides not having p trap, this is a drain, no pressure, so why wouldn’t that work?
It's just that the fix/proper solution was just as easy as this hack job.
The pvc trap adp and glue are cheaper than the Fernco coupling.
Sure but if you don't live right next to a hardware store and don't have the parts on hand, sometimes the hack job is good enough.
Yeah, you’re right. But the plumbers that feel threatened by home repairs won’t agree.
If you have the parts.
No one suggested not using a band at all. Glue a (looks like 1 1/2") desanco and use the standard compression ring and nut. Like so. https://www.homedepot.com/p/NIBCO-1-1-2-in-PVC-DWV-Hub-x-Slip-Joint-Trap-Adapter-C48017HD112/100345781
Upvote for supplying visual/helpful details.
Here’s the fernco style fitting that will actually fit correctly: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Proflex-1-1-2-in-Neoprene-Shielded-Coupling-P3002-150/100372291 Note it’s 1 1/2” but one side is tubular. Still need a ptrap of course but that’s what would fit in the current configuration.
No
Absolutely not.
I would also recommend GFCI outlet
It’s not right. At the very least it should be 1-1/2” trap adapter in place of the fernco coupling. S-traps are no longer code compliant but they’re functional.
Wow! Another heretic! People talk about S-traps like your sink will blow up and kill you or something. As you point out, they actually do work… To a point. If you dump a bunch of water down them at once, they will probably gurgle a bunch at the end, and siphon some of the water out of the trap, but probably leave just enough to keep out the sewer gas. Clearly, this is not a good situation, but it's not the end of the world, either.
I love how there's a plug under the sink that's not GFIC. I'd be more worried about that after you pass out from the sewer gasses.
Mate that's looking like me after I put my belt on.
Please, don't tell us about the drainage system in your pants.
Landlord special, huh?
Or flipper special, am I right
Needs a GFCI
If it’s not leaking, it’s acceptable…is it the right way to do it, no.
Nope
For under $20, why risk mold and sewer gas? Get a ptrap and the right couplings. This probably costed more than just doing it right. Also it already has water under it.
It ships.....
No
Not a plumber, but I'm going with no...
Hell no !! Totally illegal
Obviously not.
That depends on the insurance you carry.....
For like, rigging up a diy bong yeah. Not here though.
Where is the P-trap?
In a word? No. In more words? Hell no.
This was a temporary repair someone did to sell the house. Definitely not OK except for a little while.
Nope. Whoever put that outlet in installed it wrong.
It’s a low/no pressure drain line so it’s ugly but it works. But you need a you bend somewhere
As long as it has a P trap 🤷🏻 and doesn’t leak
Honestly dude, if it drains and doesn't gurgle then don't even worry about it. Might not be to code but the fucker will plumb.
It'll work but shielded clamps like this are ideal..not the right size but same idea https://www.supplyhouse.com/Fernco-3001-1125-1-1-2-x-1-1-4-ProFlex-Coupling-Cast-Iron-Plastic-Steel-to-Copper-or-1-Plastic?utm_source=google_ad&utm_medium=Shopping_tm&utm_campaign=Shopping_TM_New_users&gclid=Cj0KCQjwuZGnBhD1ARIsACxbAVi1hpPLlwR-20j-a2IaC1SKZsNcuAXDLDSLdQqxn7OxtsRTQFXmm5QaApEpEALw_wcB
Those are for underground. I don't think there's a benefit for this application
Anytime we transition, at least in my jurisdiction has to be shielded, an inspector would look at those regular ferncos and fail you..I've seen it. Also no hub clamps need to be 4 bands underground here
Any idea what the benefit would be here? My understand underground was to protect the rubber from rock or Vermin or ground shifting. Though thinking about it, I could see some horizontal cars where it would help if the pipes weren't properly supported
For me its because the gasket in the clamp is made for the diameter of the pipe, maybe creates a better seal maybe not. But look how much that clamp had to be tightened to fit the tubular
Why do you think a shielded coupling is superior in this situation? The bathroom sink certainly isn't experiencing water pressure or shear forces.
For me its because the gasket in the clamp is made for the diameter of the pipe, maybe creates a better seal maybe not. But look how much that clamp had to be tightened to fit the tubular
Same for me, but going from inch and a half brass to PVC the shield is going to kink up in spots and may leak. He would be better off putting a trap adapter on there. As for the s trap he might want to call a plumber to fix that one.
That fernco will be a bloated, nasty mess within the year.
How? It's basically not going to have any water touching it crome pipeis inserted 5in parst the Ferco. I've seen them used on 4in sewer maybe where they are constantly touching shit water and they don't smell.
Sure, used properly and in the correct application, a fernco is fine. But that's 1½ tubular to 1½ IPS - two very different ODs; but the fernco is a straight 1½ IPS. So either the tubular piece is inserted partway into the fernco, or it extends into the PVC section - either way, OP's created a fouling area between the tubular and the fernco. Even if it never backs up, little bits of whatever's going down that drain are going to deposit there. And when that drain does clog up, maybe way downstream even, all sorts of shit is gonna get impacted into that space. And all that nastiness is going to eat that 22 ga brass for breakfast. And, of course, over-tightening that strap is eventually going to split the fernco. If OP is committed to a fernco, Home Depot sells a fernco for that precise application. But as has been said, gluing a trap adapter on there is a 5-minute job.
Pretty sure this would fit better: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Proflex-1-1-2-in-Neoprene-Shielded-Coupling-P3002-150/100372291
If it doesn’t leak, it’s fine. Just check it every so often
Good enough
If it is does not leak it's good enough
Yup but nope
In a pinch but not long term
But does it work? S traps were used for decades. They work fine in most situations. I replace 40-50 year old s traps a few times a year.
Its fine. Stop the nonsense
Does it work?
It does, just wasn’t sure if it’s a good long term fit
No not good long term, but may last for a bit.
When you say a bit are you saying like over 10 years?
The crome tends to rot out up at the bottom of the S-trap. You could have used plastic they last way longer than crome. Otherwise, at this union they make an adapter that goes into the PVC that the crome/PVC pipe would slip into. A plastic washer gets tighten down and tightens the seal between the 2.
I would not bet on that last 10 years no. Months to a year maybe longer if you are lucky.
Nah, she’ll hold. Acts as an easy cleanout when it clogs too
Weird because I have a similar one that’s been on our kitchen sink forever and no issues so far
I wouldn't do that for a customer, but I'd do it in my own home.
I second this , is it purdy or proper no , would I install it as a professional no but if it's Sunday and I'm fuckin around at home and it's whats in my truck you bet your ass I'm using it
My sink at home drains into a saddle on a cast iron vent pipe. It don't bother me none.
Why is the top of the fernco so smashed? Did you get a 1.5 inch fernco for a 1 1/4" pipe?
No both are 1.5” ID, but the metal is just much thinner than the pvc. That’s kind of why I was posting here. It’s ratcheted down real tight and there’s no kink/crease in the fernco when tightening that much.
Perfectly functional. Somewhat hideous. If it were my house, I wouldn't care. I wouldn't install it in a customer's house in a million years though.
lol, I wouldn't do it that way, but hey, if you're okay with it, that works for me.
no, call a plumber and have it done correctly. Then call an electrian and have the outlet changed
I forgot to add, if it matters, it’s at a wet bar that won’t be used as often as other sinks in the house. Plus I’ll be storing a good amount of booze down there so I’ll be in there frequently and can keep an eye on it.
I've read that you've got an S trap in this somewhere? The rubber coupler is meh, its not how this is done and more expensive than the proper fitting, but likely works just fine and that's the point right? I'd be more concerned with the S trap, these absolutely suck and don't meet code anywhere for good reason. I'd redo this for that reason alone, so a proper P with a sure-vent tucked up under the counter.
Yes
Depends where you live.
Yeah, on the moon, this is fine. But I wouldn't risk it with Earth's gravity.
Trap adapter would solve it
Honestly.... no. Practically u should be fine
That 20amp outlet inline with a GFI outlet somewhere else? If not, get one! My garbage disposal has it's own line with a GFI.
Out of curiosity, how tight should that couple be tightened. Is there a rule of thumb? I've got a similar situation, but going into the wall. I'm worried about damaging the pipe of tightening too much
Isn't there a required length between the bottom of a p trap and the floor to avoid backup and sewer gas?
Looks great from my house.
Is no one going to ask if that outlet is connected to a GFCI in some way?
It is a temporary fix after hours or on a weekend so you dont have to pay out the ass for a plumber. It isnt a permenant fix. I am assuming you P trap is up higher but if you dont have one installed you will want one unless you like your house smelling like ass.
No. But it will probably work for a long time. I don’t see a trap though
No trap visible, vent may be(if one exists) may be in rhe wall above the flood level rim of the sink and Fernco-type coupling only approved below groung.
I have one of these couplings on my sewer pump. It allows them to join the pump through the cap to the house plumbing. The plumber just changed the cap to plastic cap, on the tank. He failed to tighten the bottom clamp…. It blew off one day and sprayed sewage everywhere while I was gone. I heard it the following day. Mold (sewage mold..) had already set in. I’m remediating now. I tightened every one of those bastards under my house.
When we replaced the old plumbing in my house dude had a DIY setup with a coupler just like that that had probably been there a few decades. No leaking though.
Looks good
It'll work till it doesn't if the clamps loosen or the rubber to Terry rates it's not hard to couple a PVC to your connection.
Sent you a message with some examples of what you need
Haven’t gotten it
🤢🤮
depends, was it 5 o clock on friday? was the supply house closed? did the guy really have to shit?
The brass is 1/12 but tubular size smaller OD than 1/12 scedule40 dwv pipe trap adapter is best solution
Temporary that's fine
No….you should have a sanitary tee with a studdor vent at the top of it, s traps are trash and cause too many issues
🤣🤣🤣 whhhhatttt??????
Lol...
no
No use a trap adapter. The outside diameter of the chrome p.o is different from your pvc.
Depends on what is “acceptable” is. It looks like it is working, but probably not up to code.
Tail light warranty right there 🤙
If it does it job. Yes.
No
It is until it isn’t
It’ll work until you go get the supplies to do it properly.
Yes, the boot will outlast the metal pipe, I assume there is a P trap there.
Go to Home Depot. Find someone with an orange apron and grey hair, preferably a beard, show him this and ask for assistance.
Does it work? Then yes it's acceptable.
It will work temporarily but not a long term fix.
No. That’s the Home Depot way.
Sure is
Judging by the people in this group yes.
It's not sightly, but... as the Chrome pipe is in the PVC pipe, then it will never leak. The coupling then acts as a seal for sewer gases which is code compliant however, there are tidier ways of doing the job.
They make couplers like that for PVC to metal. They reduced in size slightly so it fits better. I would recommend that but a compression fitting would probably be a better option. It just glues onto the PVC then there’s a gasket, and I thread fitting that squeezes the metal and holding it in place
Looks good from here brother! Can you wash your hands?
No
Trap adaptor with a chrome nut and washer
Definitely no
Define acceptable
I mean it’s not professional but as long as you have a p trap above it, it’ll get you by.
If you gotta ask then I think you know the answer.
No way.
No