I was going to say the same. Pretty good job man, most people on here set the sheets side by side, and u can see vertical lines where the sheets meet. U did great! Some spots are a Lil wonky but acceptable. It's hard not getting tunnel vision setting penny's. Bravo. I'd go gray
Ok you are 2nd person to tell me to go grey, thanks. Not sure I did great I think acceptable but appreciate the feedback. Yes after every sheet I stepped back and had my wife check every 4th sheet. Although not sure how much good she did, she doesn't see the same flaws I do.
Thanks I appreciate it. I have a hard time seeing good in what I do, cause I always see the flaws. Like I built those cabinets, people seem to love em when I show it in person, but IDK, i see every mistake instead.
I use a water based poly, 3 light coats. I use foam brushes. I use 1 foam brush to brush on, then same brush to brush in 1 direction. I use the 2nd to clean up sides/(bottom if doing sides) of any drips/bulidup.
I already checked covers, they cover well (i had to use the green outlet draft things, they make the outlet box bigger (inspector thing) so my covers are kinda big, they aren't the smallest, or the biggest but the medium, and it covers pretty far, [https://imgur.com/a/PpnVzx6](https://imgur.com/a/PpnVzx6) ). Yeah i've seen worse from pro's and amateurs as well with penny tile, but i know it's not perfect either. I should have posted i'm planning on siliconing any transition to different material (against countertop, against cabinets)
Would a dark countertop make a difference? IDK my wife has different tastes than most people I've found. I get nervous posting stuff i've made. Glad you like the cabinets, haven't really showed them off to anyone.
I've always liked the tiger striped acacia woods. A counter slab with a lot of its own character would bring it together. My wife has different tastes but it works. Nothing worse than seeing the same Grey driftwood lvp in every house. And don't get me started on subway tiles!
I had never heard of this, that looks amazing. I wonder how expensive it is in rough cut and if my local mill even sells it. I might have to look into that for the upstairs kitchen when we do the remodel. Here is what the counter looks like, she wanted a dark countertop to counteract with the light cabinets she wanted. IDK. I kind of like it, but yeah I can see why it wouldn't be in others tastes as well. https://imgur.com/a/kQbDqCS
Looks good! Penny tile is tricky but overall I’d give it a solid B+. I’d go grey for the grout and if you do go for epoxy, know that it is much more difficult to install. Not the best choice if you’ve never used it before. Better off with a cementious polymer modified grout even if you have to seal it. Definitely caulk (not grout) the lines where the tile meets the countertop and cabinets.
Awesome, lines up with my plans (grout I have to seal since easier to work with) and silicone the transitions to different materials (cabinet/countertop). Thanks for feedback.
Yep! Most grout manufacturers also make a sanded caulk that color matches to their grout. The silicone stuff is more durable but more difficult to work with, and I’d say you will be fine with acrylic on a backsplash.
I didn't know that, I just bought the bathroom silicone i normally use. Learn something new, appreciate it, i'll go and try to find the matching color.
They make color matching silicone grout. I use it for all plane changes (inside and outside corners, soap niches, where the wall tile meets the floor tile if your tiling a shower..... . Grout will crack and fall out over time. Smooth it with your finger or calk tool and wipe with a wet sponge and your cut edges will look perfect
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Custom-Building-Products-Polyblend-381-Bright-White-10-5-oz-Sanded-Ceramic-Tile-Caulk-PC38110S/202520295
I can understand that, but this was wife's choice after having like 10 samples brought home. I personally don't care as it's our basement remodel that is like a mini apartment.
It's good, you did good! Do a grout that in a light grey, white is too stark and will only amplify any mistakes. But it looks fine to me, don't listen to the boring old you should have just done white on white crowd. I like it.
I do this every day and I think it looks great. Penny rounds are a huge pain in the ass and you did well.
I vote white grout, it will make the tile pop.
God forbid anyone try to tile on their own backsplash! Give the guy a break, look not bad but the cuts to the countertop could've been a little better. Silicone that and it'll hide better.
Mapei QC premixed grout in a tub would be good. Stain and mildew resistance built in. LATICRETE products may be overkill for this small area, but also have the protection factors built in.
If you go with add water to powdered grout products, you will need to apply a topical sealer. Grease has a way of darkening cementious grouts.
Yeah I bought the mapei add water. I have a small area and they want like $60 for a small premix that I won't use all. Where a small bag is like $10. If i gotta spend the $50 difference to have a better/easier experience I will. So was just looking for options. Appreciate the help. So if I use the premix I don't need to seal?
Have you posited anything on your cabinet build on woodworking or cabinets? I’d be interesting is seeing what you did.
Prob pretty standard, but stuff like what wood you used for the casing inside and how you finished them.
I’ve taken some cab building classes and am looking to build up my garage for my workshop
No cause I don't consider myself a woodworker or anything just a DIY guy. I posted my basement renovations to DIY and homerenovations i think a few months back.
TBH, I just did 3/4 plywood for the shell. Here is some pictures before countertop and doors and such. [https://imgur.com/a/A6fjwuk](https://imgur.com/a/A6fjwuk) I wish i had used birch but that will be a change when i do main kitchen. I bought hickory banding to match the doors. I ironed it on and trimmed. Sanded everything. I just think I went 4" up and 3.5" back for the toe kick, or vice versa. I looked up w/e the standard was. I knew I was going faceless doors, so I made the cabinets 23.25" deep, plus 3/4" door, 24" deep, with a 25" countertop 1" overhang. I have a circular saw and a cutting jig. I used an online tool with all the pieces I needed for the shells and it gave me how many sheets of plywood I needed and all my cuts. Made it pretty easy. Since I couldn't make all in 1 day. I would sandwhich between 4 2x4's and strap them inbetween and stand up vertically so no warping.
Here is some of the doors stuff [https://imgur.com/a/Hy7hIOr](https://imgur.com/a/Hy7hIOr) My father owns a joiner and plainer. However, plainer is only 13" max. So I have to glue up like 12ish max, run through planer than use Dowels or Biscuits to join finish. Sand finish product. I usually start at 80 and end 240, but because it was in plainer i usually jump right to 240 after 80 and it's fine. 80 is to get rid of the glue residue and any ridges or w/e. Rough cut is cheaper then cut wood but lots of work. But for like countertop this works out since the wood was all greater than 1" thick, plaining allowed me to get more width per piece, almost 7/8's per piece instead of 3/4. Adds up when you need like 25+ pieces to reach 25".
Any other questions hit me up.
Nice job. Thanks for the info.
I haven’t really tried without face frames yet. Only on some built in that I didn’t have to worry about being too square cause it was fit to the walls. Also haven’t done doors yet either
Honestly can't believe people are saying this is a good install, just looks at the cuts at counter and uppers, its terrible . Not seeing sheets is just one aspect..this is a hack job imo. If you cannot maintain even cuts at the bottom, you shouldn't be doing tile. Actually maybe its the tape that throwing it off, so looking closer its not that bad...my bad
The work looks pretty good from how far out those shots are but I'd say the penny tiles are a little busy when juxtaposed with such simple cabinet faces.
Tile missing top left corner of splash. Pencil edge is not flushed with cabinet on left side. The cuts going into the counter are all over the place. Looks like they are 1/4” off the counter and crooked. Left of microwave is a 1/4-3/8” gap. I’d give it a C- for an installer, but a B for a homeowner. Pick a bluish grey grout to hide as much as possible. White will make your imperfections stick out like a sore thumb
Yeah I placed that tile(s) after pictures.
I purposely made it slightly more to accommodate a full row, should not have?
I think that's the tape causing that look, they are on or close to on counter, yes some are crooked.
Yeah i wasn't sure what to do left of microwave.
Thanks, I think it has blue tint (what i bought), i know it's in the grey family.
Use this grout selector tool. There is a place in the upper left, where you choose your tile that you can change the grout color. Helped me tremendously in choosing my grout colors.
[GroutSelectorTool](https://visualizer.besttile.com/#visualizer/spec/Best_Tile%5CImages%5CKitchen_2/sel/-1)
Looks pretty good, can't see the seams from sheet to sheet. Bottom row half cuts are a little rough but that's about it. I usually just take nippers and nip a ton of halves and use the best ones.
When your face is up on a project for many hrs, you know where the flaws are. No one will ever stand in front and pick it apart. Nice work, grout it, and move on
Wow ty for the complements. My sis is but she don't do stuff like this. I've had other friends/family ask and like, nah. I would notice my flaws and just for someone else not be happy i think.
You're second person to say that, i did it on purpose for a full row, idk, when i do upstairs main kitchen (this is my basement MIL suite type thing) i'll keep all these tips in mind and probably revisit this post so I don't make those little mistakes there.
The only critiques here-
Your edge (counter to bottom row of tike isn't the best) not bad but can definitely be sharper ..)
A few edges where you cut around things can be sharpened up but overall c+ on the world of pro tile work
Looks good. Definitely use a light/medium grey over any white grout. Looks light you’ll end up with a thick caulk line at the countertop which is fine just make it straight and consistent.
You passed the test of hiding where one sheet of mosaic begins and the other one ends at a glance. Looks solid to me.
I was going to say the same. Pretty good job man, most people on here set the sheets side by side, and u can see vertical lines where the sheets meet. U did great! Some spots are a Lil wonky but acceptable. It's hard not getting tunnel vision setting penny's. Bravo. I'd go gray
Ok you are 2nd person to tell me to go grey, thanks. Not sure I did great I think acceptable but appreciate the feedback. Yes after every sheet I stepped back and had my wife check every 4th sheet. Although not sure how much good she did, she doesn't see the same flaws I do.
Just don't point them out! Then wife will always point it out, don't be hard on yourself! Looks great
Thanks I appreciate it. I have a hard time seeing good in what I do, cause I always see the flaws. Like I built those cabinets, people seem to love em when I show it in person, but IDK, i see every mistake instead.
I hear ya my man! Just shows you care and take pride in your work! Cabinets are bitchin!
you are too kind, thank you.
I built mine too!…https://i.postimg.cc/cH8w316P/6-B4266-B6-33-D2-4-A98-A08-F-324-D5-F24108-A.jpg Are your hickory also?
Yeah, those are nice looking. Grats.
Yours came out real nice. I still have doors to hang. What did you finish yours with I used general finishes poly via hvlp.
I use a water based poly, 3 light coats. I use foam brushes. I use 1 foam brush to brush on, then same brush to brush in 1 direction. I use the 2nd to clean up sides/(bottom if doing sides) of any drips/bulidup.
Nice it worked well. I have a vanity I made I won’t be able to fit the gun inside the cubbies so will try a foam brush.
That's what i was going for the most. I know my transitions are janky, but that's what silicone is for IMO. Appreciate it.
looks ok from a distance, pics not close enough for detail
OK, I thought the ones close to counter edge were close enough. Sorry, not home at moment to get closer ones.
They actually are close enough, tile should be inspected at 36+ inches.
OP did a pretty good job. I count *one* line you can only really see by zooming in, and that line goes away from a different angle in a different pic.
Oh for sure, only pieces I noticed was left of the microwave but no one you invite over will give a shit
Circles suck. I’d make sure the outlets cover for sure and silicone the edges to hide some sin. Seen worse
I already checked covers, they cover well (i had to use the green outlet draft things, they make the outlet box bigger (inspector thing) so my covers are kinda big, they aren't the smallest, or the biggest but the medium, and it covers pretty far, [https://imgur.com/a/PpnVzx6](https://imgur.com/a/PpnVzx6) ). Yeah i've seen worse from pro's and amateurs as well with penny tile, but i know it's not perfect either. I should have posted i'm planning on siliconing any transition to different material (against countertop, against cabinets)
I love the cabinets and the backsplash, just not a fan of the 2 together. Definitely good enuff for a mil suite.
Would a dark countertop make a difference? IDK my wife has different tastes than most people I've found. I get nervous posting stuff i've made. Glad you like the cabinets, haven't really showed them off to anyone.
I've always liked the tiger striped acacia woods. A counter slab with a lot of its own character would bring it together. My wife has different tastes but it works. Nothing worse than seeing the same Grey driftwood lvp in every house. And don't get me started on subway tiles!
I had never heard of this, that looks amazing. I wonder how expensive it is in rough cut and if my local mill even sells it. I might have to look into that for the upstairs kitchen when we do the remodel. Here is what the counter looks like, she wanted a dark countertop to counteract with the light cabinets she wanted. IDK. I kind of like it, but yeah I can see why it wouldn't be in others tastes as well. https://imgur.com/a/kQbDqCS
Looks good! Penny tile is tricky but overall I’d give it a solid B+. I’d go grey for the grout and if you do go for epoxy, know that it is much more difficult to install. Not the best choice if you’ve never used it before. Better off with a cementious polymer modified grout even if you have to seal it. Definitely caulk (not grout) the lines where the tile meets the countertop and cabinets.
Awesome, lines up with my plans (grout I have to seal since easier to work with) and silicone the transitions to different materials (cabinet/countertop). Thanks for feedback.
Sure thing! An acrylic sanded grout caulk is easier to work with than silicone and the joints can be shaped with a wet sponge.
Wait there's such a thing as grout caulk?
Yep! Most grout manufacturers also make a sanded caulk that color matches to their grout. The silicone stuff is more durable but more difficult to work with, and I’d say you will be fine with acrylic on a backsplash.
I didn't know that, I just bought the bathroom silicone i normally use. Learn something new, appreciate it, i'll go and try to find the matching color.
They make color matching silicone grout. I use it for all plane changes (inside and outside corners, soap niches, where the wall tile meets the floor tile if your tiling a shower..... . Grout will crack and fall out over time. Smooth it with your finger or calk tool and wipe with a wet sponge and your cut edges will look perfect https://www.homedepot.com/p/Custom-Building-Products-Polyblend-381-Bright-White-10-5-oz-Sanded-Ceramic-Tile-Caulk-PC38110S/202520295
Looks good TO ME !
Looks great, I would go with a grey that matches what’s in the tile, it will hide the little imperfections
It's too visually busy for me to consider it a good tile choice for that space. I would've chosen white on white perhaps for this reason.
I can understand that, but this was wife's choice after having like 10 samples brought home. I personally don't care as it's our basement remodel that is like a mini apartment.
Apart from the style comment, the install looks competent. A neutral grout color might reduce the visual busyness.
What is neutral, as I said currently have greyish (and a few people have said to go grey), but looking for any input.
Grey
Awesome, thank you.
It's good, you did good! Do a grout that in a light grey, white is too stark and will only amplify any mistakes. But it looks fine to me, don't listen to the boring old you should have just done white on white crowd. I like it.
I do this every day and I think it looks great. Penny rounds are a huge pain in the ass and you did well. I vote white grout, it will make the tile pop.
Don’t grout it. Rip it out and hire a professional!
God forbid anyone try to tile on their own backsplash! Give the guy a break, look not bad but the cuts to the countertop could've been a little better. Silicone that and it'll hide better.
I was going to silicone any transition, also I'll take the not bad. Thanks.
Paint it white!
I commend all the design points here. Go with the non white grout. I use LATICRETE for kitchens and baths.
Is that premixed? I bought mapei unsanded greyish, (not the ultra color the basic one that takes longer to set I think since I'm no pro)
Epoxy is a 3-part, more detailed install. Premixed Specralock is much easier for someone less experienced at grouting.
OK i'll take a look at that. I also bought sealer for after, would that premix require it after as well?
Mapei QC premixed grout in a tub would be good. Stain and mildew resistance built in. LATICRETE products may be overkill for this small area, but also have the protection factors built in. If you go with add water to powdered grout products, you will need to apply a topical sealer. Grease has a way of darkening cementious grouts.
Yeah I bought the mapei add water. I have a small area and they want like $60 for a small premix that I won't use all. Where a small bag is like $10. If i gotta spend the $50 difference to have a better/easier experience I will. So was just looking for options. Appreciate the help. So if I use the premix I don't need to seal?
Correct. You don’t seal the Urethane or Epoxy grouts.
OK thanks. Really appreciate the help/info.
What do the counter tops look like. When choosing a grout color for a splash, ill usually suggest a color that matches some of specs of the counters.
dark. https://imgur.com/a/kQbDqCS
With lighting on its all dark enough. Light gray or off white.
Wonder what kind of wood those cab doors are
Hickory, built em myself, all the basement has been me.
Love it
Thanks, appreciate it.
Have you posited anything on your cabinet build on woodworking or cabinets? I’d be interesting is seeing what you did. Prob pretty standard, but stuff like what wood you used for the casing inside and how you finished them. I’ve taken some cab building classes and am looking to build up my garage for my workshop
No cause I don't consider myself a woodworker or anything just a DIY guy. I posted my basement renovations to DIY and homerenovations i think a few months back. TBH, I just did 3/4 plywood for the shell. Here is some pictures before countertop and doors and such. [https://imgur.com/a/A6fjwuk](https://imgur.com/a/A6fjwuk) I wish i had used birch but that will be a change when i do main kitchen. I bought hickory banding to match the doors. I ironed it on and trimmed. Sanded everything. I just think I went 4" up and 3.5" back for the toe kick, or vice versa. I looked up w/e the standard was. I knew I was going faceless doors, so I made the cabinets 23.25" deep, plus 3/4" door, 24" deep, with a 25" countertop 1" overhang. I have a circular saw and a cutting jig. I used an online tool with all the pieces I needed for the shells and it gave me how many sheets of plywood I needed and all my cuts. Made it pretty easy. Since I couldn't make all in 1 day. I would sandwhich between 4 2x4's and strap them inbetween and stand up vertically so no warping. Here is some of the doors stuff [https://imgur.com/a/Hy7hIOr](https://imgur.com/a/Hy7hIOr) My father owns a joiner and plainer. However, plainer is only 13" max. So I have to glue up like 12ish max, run through planer than use Dowels or Biscuits to join finish. Sand finish product. I usually start at 80 and end 240, but because it was in plainer i usually jump right to 240 after 80 and it's fine. 80 is to get rid of the glue residue and any ridges or w/e. Rough cut is cheaper then cut wood but lots of work. But for like countertop this works out since the wood was all greater than 1" thick, plaining allowed me to get more width per piece, almost 7/8's per piece instead of 3/4. Adds up when you need like 25+ pieces to reach 25". Any other questions hit me up.
Nice job. Thanks for the info. I haven’t really tried without face frames yet. Only on some built in that I didn’t have to worry about being too square cause it was fit to the walls. Also haven’t done doors yet either
Honestly can't believe people are saying this is a good install, just looks at the cuts at counter and uppers, its terrible . Not seeing sheets is just one aspect..this is a hack job imo. If you cannot maintain even cuts at the bottom, you shouldn't be doing tile. Actually maybe its the tape that throwing it off, so looking closer its not that bad...my bad
The work looks pretty good from how far out those shots are but I'd say the penny tiles are a little busy when juxtaposed with such simple cabinet faces.
The tile looks great.
Tile missing top left corner of splash. Pencil edge is not flushed with cabinet on left side. The cuts going into the counter are all over the place. Looks like they are 1/4” off the counter and crooked. Left of microwave is a 1/4-3/8” gap. I’d give it a C- for an installer, but a B for a homeowner. Pick a bluish grey grout to hide as much as possible. White will make your imperfections stick out like a sore thumb
Yeah I placed that tile(s) after pictures. I purposely made it slightly more to accommodate a full row, should not have? I think that's the tape causing that look, they are on or close to on counter, yes some are crooked. Yeah i wasn't sure what to do left of microwave. Thanks, I think it has blue tint (what i bought), i know it's in the grey family.
Looks pretty good! A couple of the pictures make me think a bit too much grout was washed away on the first clean? But it's hard to tell
Haven't grouted yet.
Well there you go. My eagle eyes were right haha. My bad
Use this grout selector tool. There is a place in the upper left, where you choose your tile that you can change the grout color. Helped me tremendously in choosing my grout colors. [GroutSelectorTool](https://visualizer.besttile.com/#visualizer/spec/Best_Tile%5CImages%5CKitchen_2/sel/-1)
Appreciate it, but they don't seem to have my tile as an option nor an option to upload.
Yeah I just found something close. Gave me a visual on whether to go dark or light
Looks pretty good, can't see the seams from sheet to sheet. Bottom row half cuts are a little rough but that's about it. I usually just take nippers and nip a ton of halves and use the best ones.
When your face is up on a project for many hrs, you know where the flaws are. No one will ever stand in front and pick it apart. Nice work, grout it, and move on
aye bro are you in the Phx area and looking for work ? lol i’m jk, well kinda . but what i mean to say it looks superb.
Wow ty for the complements. My sis is but she don't do stuff like this. I've had other friends/family ask and like, nah. I would notice my flaws and just for someone else not be happy i think.
I like it. It looks like the bars on some cruise ships.
That combination of ceiling tiles -wood grain cabinets and mosaic doesn’t quite complement.
Looks great nice cabinets too
We use Laticrete PermaColor grout and caulk. You don't have to seal that tile, only Travertine, Marble, etc.
Looks great, only gripe is the pencil round not flushing out with the side of the cabinet
You're second person to say that, i did it on purpose for a full row, idk, when i do upstairs main kitchen (this is my basement MIL suite type thing) i'll keep all these tips in mind and probably revisit this post so I don't make those little mistakes there.
I noticed why you did it but I still think cutting wouldve given a better look but it’s just preference, either way great looking backsplash!
Maybe, and i'll do that upstairs. Thanks you for the tip and the compliments.
Used same tile as an accent wall behind a sink in a bathroom. Used a light grey, one that matched some of the grey tone in the tile. Worked well.
We doing penny rounds on backsplash now?
The only critiques here- Your edge (counter to bottom row of tike isn't the best) not bad but can definitely be sharper ..) A few edges where you cut around things can be sharpened up but overall c+ on the world of pro tile work
I sell that penny round at my shop. Charcoal grout for the kill
Looks good. Definitely use a light/medium grey over any white grout. Looks light you’ll end up with a thick caulk line at the countertop which is fine just make it straight and consistent.