I’ve seen lots of installs in Europe, where there was basically a “box” behind the toilet and in front of the wall. Looks fine. Lots of ways to finish it off, could put a cabinet above if trying to conceal it. Often there was no cabinet and the top edge was used as a shelf.
To each his own. I’ve always thought the more important part of this system is that it’s a “wall mounted toilet”, rather than prioritizing what sort of tank is used with it. Still makes for easy floor cleaning.
That's my thought. No scrubbing around and behind a toilet.
Putting the tank in the wall means tearing out a bunch of stuff if anything goes wrong (and with this plumber I'd definitely be planning for something to go wrong). With a bump out like this it might be easier to access. I'm guessing plumber wasn't willing to cut into the wall studs to get that tank to fit and that's probably a good thing.
I can think of lots of cool ways to use this space. Inset shelves or art niche above the toilet would be high on my list. Because of the studs, you can't go deeper than the depth of the toilet tank bump out though.
Not only that. The framing around this in wall toilet is not correct at all. I have done these before and that’s nowhere close to what they tell you in the directions needs to be done so this thing doesn’t rip through the wall.
They definitely make these units for 2x4 walls as well and it comes with a conversion to make the bend quicker on the pipe when doing so. Either way this is 100% not the way the manufacturer says the wall needs to be framed to support this unit.
Will fur the wall out around it. But it’s only secured with 2 screws to the subfloor. He said they’re 4” but that doesn’t matter when all you’re hitting is subfloor.
Yeah… their supervisor is going to call me about it. My carpenter was in site so I’m not sure why he did it this way. Easy to add blocks. Pain in the butt now that it’s plumed in.
The studs don't look notched which could cause the wallboard to flare out at the bottom. However, if they're planning on furring out all the walls, in the shower included, that'll be fine because the liner will sit recessed back from the back of the wall covering.
If you're using the noble preslope pan, I also assumed it needed to be secured to the floor somehow. After looking at the instructions, it looks like that's not the case. It seems the clamping drain, liner and top mud bed are enough to keep it in place. Assuming those walls gets furred out, the install looks fine to me.
It is Noble ProSlope. We can rip some wood and fur it out, making the shower even smaller. I’m going to ask them how they expect me to tile over backer board that has a 3/4” bow out. I may screw a piece in. They’ll probably tell me something like “this is how we always do it.”
I thought the preslope should be thin set down to the subfloor.
The installation instructions for that product don't seem to mention any type of fasteners. I'm with you, it seems like something should secure it down but looks like they depend on the layers above to do it. Either way, I don't think you'd thinset directly to the wood subfloor. Thinset would be better suited for a concrete basement floor, I think.Maybe some pl premium or liquid nails, if anything, but doesn't look required by the manufacturer.
For the furring strips, you don't need 3/4". Those folds in the corners shouldn't be more than 1/4-3/8".
Not a bad idea but I doubt they will. They say they warranty their work for 1 year but that’s not long and I’m sure if a pan issue happens they will blame the tiler…
1 year warranty is required and is bullshit. It took two years for my tiled shower to fail. When I tore into it, no preslope, penetrations through cement board over the curb, missing waterproofing membrane everywhere on the walls including around the niche.
Don't allow them to get away with their required one year of warranty if you're concerned. As many have mentioned in previous threads here, it will be cheaper to cut your losses and/or fix things now than after they finish hacking shit together.
I will no longer allow contractors to cut corners. It has costs me thousands in rework and tons of personal time on a single bathroom remodel. Not worth it. Make them stand by their bullshit or fire them and find someone else.
that is an old-school way of doing shower pans. it does not get thinset down. the mud pan will weigh it down when it's installed. that being said, it does look a little loose for my taste and the studs should have been routed or chiseled out some in order to receive the pan liner.
if you're worried about pan liner not being mortared to the noble pro pan, check out the instructions manual online. if memory serves, it does not get mortared to the noble pro pan.
was there communication between the plumbers and the tile installer? not sure how the tile guy could give you an accurate quote if he didn't know what type of waterproofing system was being used.
I prefer liner that’s why I requested it. I’ve done several showers but usually with a dry pack for the preslope. Im asking if the pro slope should be thinset down to the subfloor, I believe it does. I don’t believe the membrane should be thin set to the top of the preslope.
My tiler would have also done the same pan (though they prefer no preslope under the membrane.)
The corners are folded in a way that they are 3/4” out from the stud when I push it. Therefore, the backer board will bow out at the bottom. The tiler would have to make it up with thinset to get it plum.
They prefer no pre slope under the liner?? That should be your first indication to find another tile guy, pre slope under the liner isn't optional it's fucking required for water to drain to the weep holes
Yes I’m aware. Please read my other comments. I’m not talking about between the studs. I’m mostly talking about the corners. One is about 3/4” out when I push it in.
Also, I don’t believe he thinset the preslope to the subfloor.
It’s ok. If I walked into this as an installer I would double check everything and make sure the corners are as flat as possible and if I’m not happy I would just redo it myself. I wouldn’t install over something that’s not correct. The liner is down already let’s see what your tile dude says….. keep us posted on what he says lol
He will just rip it out and redo it. I’ve worked with them on many projects. But I don’t want to pay the plumbers for it if that’s the case. My tiler can’t come look at it until he comes to tile next week.
Tbf, you did explicitly tell the plumber \*not\* to do the pan, but they did so anyhow - not sure where they’d stand if you refused to pay them for work you told them not to do?
Was on initial quote and then after we saw some quality issues I told them to finish their valve rough in and toilet (as they had started.) Left and came back to a pan.
I just hope my tile crew doesn’t have issues with the thick folds in the corners.
In over 20 years I’ve never had a plumber do one that I didn’t have to reinstall correctly. They charge a bunch to do it to. Nowadays I try to avoid pan liners altogether and do a sealed system when I can.
have you looked at the [Noble Pro Slope Installation manual](https://noblecompany.com/storage/docs/resources/PS112016-11_Pro-Slope_Installation_Instructions.pdf)?
Three part clamp drains with pvc liners are water in/water out systems. This essentially creates a 2” thick sand filter which gets saturated and soaked with everything that comes off your body when you shower. If done correctly, it won’t leak, but it’s disgusting nonetheless. Modern showers utilize bonded flanges. The water goes down the hole. Period.
Now, demand a modern shower system by a qualified installer. As for the plumber, get him/her/they/them/it a calendar, circle 2024 with an obnoxious highlighter, then attach it to a bonded flange (Schluter, x-flo, laticrete, wedi…pick one) and give it to him with his PVC and his drain from the eighties. This system is gross and dated. It’s like electricians using knob and tube or plasterers using horse hair…I mean, they kinda work but c’mon son.
I disagree on this. These shower systems are fine when installed correctly. If the preslopes are present, as required by the specs, gravity will do its job. It's not at all like knob and tube which will burn your house down. 😂
Yea thats some bs, if it wasnt in his quote to do it dont pay him for it. Liner pans are obsolete, even when doing a mud bed its better to have topical waterproofing. If i was the tiler coming in i would probably just charge you a little something to rip it out. The whole wall needs to be furred out for the in wall toilet now, is the shower valve set to accommodate the extra depth?
I don’t like how the dam has a small overlap by the dam corner maybe only a half inch. I typically fold my corner making the pan like the inside of a box. I also use square pasco corners that cover the top of dam. Then I put Chen caulk over the seams where corner meets pan. We use brick for our curbs too and mastic the pan to the brick to keep the pan taught.
Why is the drain to one side rather than centered in the shower? Linear drain perhaps? If not a linear drain than the drain should be in the middle of the shower pan. If it can't be centered put a linear drain on the fixture wall.
Dito on the brick. Wood curbs are stupid. They expand and contract while the tile does not. It will always lead to cracks in the grout on that curb.
If I were the tile setter coming onto this job I would be surprised to see a pan in place already. I have never seen a plumber build a shower pan and the thought of it frightens me. But since it is there already I would go ahead and redo it, replacing the curb with brick and waterproofing the finished cement pan, curb and walls with ditra, redguard or hydroban. This turns the pvc liner into a secondary waterproofing. The pvc can handle more movement in the walls and floor than the modern systems can. I do both, or did, retired now, and have never had one fail with hundreds of them built.
Pan looks pretty good assuming the walls get furred as you mentioned in other posts. It looks like you have a cut on the liner on the outside of the curb. I'm anal enough to put another damn corner on the outside to be sure there's zero chance for a leak.
Is the curb sloped properly into the pan about 1/8"?
Curb is level. The slope was going to be put on the backer board. I asked them to put another corner dam on the outside and he said he didn’t have any and they never did that.
They sell them at home depot at lowes for a couple bucks. Just pick them and add them yourself with a little bit of the oatey x15 glue. Super easy to do and woth the peace of mind, in my opinion.
Curb is level from left to right but is it sloped from outside to inside? If it's not sloped, when (not if) water gets to that liner at the curb, where will it go?
Also, how do they plan on finishing that curb, will someone be floating it?
Level both ways. No slope to inside. I prefer wire mesh and float and no screws but my tile guys who have done a few for me (no issues yet) screw backer board to the top and outside, redguard, mesh, then float. Yea, I know it punctures the liner on the top… but they put down some sealer under where the screws will go and red guard the top.
This was partially the cause of my failure and I won't allow it again. They ran cement board over the entire curb. Because there was no preslope (liner sitting flat on the subfloor, partially sloped to two of the shower corners) the cement board which was sitting in the pan on the inside, began wicking water underneath the redgard layer, made its way to the penetrations in the liner, caused the 2x4 curb to begin swelling which led to cracks in the grout which allowed more water in and so on until the water made it to my 2nd floor ceiling and saturated the sheetrock just below the curb corner.
The first thing to tip me off to an issue was the efflorescence that began leaching up from the mortar bed and onto the tile. Standing water is no joke, it will beat these materials.
Your tile guy is doing it wrong and gambling with your time and money. It may take a few years, but they're going to fail. When I called the guy that installed mine back, his recommendation was to caulk the cracks in the grout and all the corners. When I refused, he stopped responding. They don't care too much after cashing your check, unfortunately.
I think the only real way around it is something like a kerdi curb. Without screwing somewhere I believe the backboard or float will flex and cause cracking. I do hear you on the curb level though, especially if it’s leaning towards a corner. Wood curbs are usually the first to fail. If concrete subfloor I use brick.
Metal lath or a 20 gauge mesh wire over bent to "hug" the curb and line and a type S mortar at least 1/2" thick isn't going anywhere. This also allows a glass installer to make their penetrations and bite into something that's not your liner and 2x4 curb. No additional waterproof layer is needed over the mortar. Your shower liner is your waterproofing.
I'm sure you've heard and read the stories about mold sandwiches. I don't have any experience with this occurring but where does the water that gets underneath that cement board and redguard, go? Your mud bed will wick water to all surface area of the liner. If they're using cement board on the top and outside, anything on the inside? They'll need something to attach tile to.
Please make sure they at least keep the edge of that cement board out of contact with the liner. I will keep my fingers crossed for you! 🙂 Best of luck!
I'm sure you know this already but in case not and for others reading, there is plenty of great information on the john bridge forum. Also, Sal DiBlasi and TileCoach on YouTube and FloorElf's site I've all found to be fantastic sources on best practices.
Absolutely to the wire mesh and slope. Screws in the curb. I don't care what your tile setter does to ameliorate those screws, it is a stupid thing to do and something that can not be done if a proper brick curb is used. Teach your tile setter how to do it right since you keep hiring them.
Last thing, I promise. Is there any blocking in those stud bays? You can probably get away without it but I would want something supporting the back of my liner and the mud bed that's going in over it.
Minimal blocking, just where the valve and niche is. Nothing near the liner or the bed. I don’t believe I’ve ever blocked that low before. I could pull the liner down and nail a few. But I don’t know if that will ultimately make a big difference.
Off topic... Shouldn't an "in wall" toilet tank be IN THE WALL?
He's worried about the wrong thing lol
That’s the first thing that jumped out to me. It’s already plumbed too. I am so curious to see how it looks when finished..
I’ve seen lots of installs in Europe, where there was basically a “box” behind the toilet and in front of the wall. Looks fine. Lots of ways to finish it off, could put a cabinet above if trying to conceal it. Often there was no cabinet and the top edge was used as a shelf.
Yes and that defeats the whole purpose of an "in wall" toilet tank.
To each his own. I’ve always thought the more important part of this system is that it’s a “wall mounted toilet”, rather than prioritizing what sort of tank is used with it. Still makes for easy floor cleaning.
That's my thought. No scrubbing around and behind a toilet. Putting the tank in the wall means tearing out a bunch of stuff if anything goes wrong (and with this plumber I'd definitely be planning for something to go wrong). With a bump out like this it might be easier to access. I'm guessing plumber wasn't willing to cut into the wall studs to get that tank to fit and that's probably a good thing. I can think of lots of cool ways to use this space. Inset shelves or art niche above the toilet would be high on my list. Because of the studs, you can't go deeper than the depth of the toilet tank bump out though.
Thank you! 🤷
Not only that. The framing around this in wall toilet is not correct at all. I have done these before and that’s nowhere close to what they tell you in the directions needs to be done so this thing doesn’t rip through the wall.
Normally between 2x6 studs. Not sure how this was secured. Bolts on the floor not going to cut it.
They definitely make these units for 2x4 walls as well and it comes with a conversion to make the bend quicker on the pipe when doing so. Either way this is 100% not the way the manufacturer says the wall needs to be framed to support this unit.
Ha! That’s what I noticed right away.
What in the world is going on with that wall mount toilet? It’s supposed to be sitting in the stud bay. That’s a nightmare in itself
Will fur the wall out around it. But it’s only secured with 2 screws to the subfloor. He said they’re 4” but that doesn’t matter when all you’re hitting is subfloor.
Yes specs call for 2 bolts on either side through studs, other wise how will it bear the weight of the user?
Yeah… their supervisor is going to call me about it. My carpenter was in site so I’m not sure why he did it this way. Easy to add blocks. Pain in the butt now that it’s plumed in.
It's because they were f*****g lazy.
They did the same amount of work just totally wrong
The studs don't look notched which could cause the wallboard to flare out at the bottom. However, if they're planning on furring out all the walls, in the shower included, that'll be fine because the liner will sit recessed back from the back of the wall covering. If you're using the noble preslope pan, I also assumed it needed to be secured to the floor somehow. After looking at the instructions, it looks like that's not the case. It seems the clamping drain, liner and top mud bed are enough to keep it in place. Assuming those walls gets furred out, the install looks fine to me.
It is Noble ProSlope. We can rip some wood and fur it out, making the shower even smaller. I’m going to ask them how they expect me to tile over backer board that has a 3/4” bow out. I may screw a piece in. They’ll probably tell me something like “this is how we always do it.” I thought the preslope should be thin set down to the subfloor.
The installation instructions for that product don't seem to mention any type of fasteners. I'm with you, it seems like something should secure it down but looks like they depend on the layers above to do it. Either way, I don't think you'd thinset directly to the wood subfloor. Thinset would be better suited for a concrete basement floor, I think.Maybe some pl premium or liquid nails, if anything, but doesn't look required by the manufacturer. For the furring strips, you don't need 3/4". Those folds in the corners shouldn't be more than 1/4-3/8".
This is the type of entertainment I come here for.
🤦🏽♀️😂
If he’s so confident then he’ll have no problem signing a quick little document stating that you are not liable for future pan failure.
Not a bad idea but I doubt they will. They say they warranty their work for 1 year but that’s not long and I’m sure if a pan issue happens they will blame the tiler…
1 year warranty is required and is bullshit. It took two years for my tiled shower to fail. When I tore into it, no preslope, penetrations through cement board over the curb, missing waterproofing membrane everywhere on the walls including around the niche. Don't allow them to get away with their required one year of warranty if you're concerned. As many have mentioned in previous threads here, it will be cheaper to cut your losses and/or fix things now than after they finish hacking shit together. I will no longer allow contractors to cut corners. It has costs me thousands in rework and tons of personal time on a single bathroom remodel. Not worth it. Make them stand by their bullshit or fire them and find someone else.
that is an old-school way of doing shower pans. it does not get thinset down. the mud pan will weigh it down when it's installed. that being said, it does look a little loose for my taste and the studs should have been routed or chiseled out some in order to receive the pan liner. if you're worried about pan liner not being mortared to the noble pro pan, check out the instructions manual online. if memory serves, it does not get mortared to the noble pro pan. was there communication between the plumbers and the tile installer? not sure how the tile guy could give you an accurate quote if he didn't know what type of waterproofing system was being used.
Only thing to do then is pack the walls with like 3/16 underlayment rips or something
I prefer liner that’s why I requested it. I’ve done several showers but usually with a dry pack for the preslope. Im asking if the pro slope should be thinset down to the subfloor, I believe it does. I don’t believe the membrane should be thin set to the top of the preslope. My tiler would have also done the same pan (though they prefer no preslope under the membrane.) The corners are folded in a way that they are 3/4” out from the stud when I push it. Therefore, the backer board will bow out at the bottom. The tiler would have to make it up with thinset to get it plum.
A pre slope under the membrane is a necessary part of this kind of waterproof system. If your tiler “prefers” to no do one, he is doing it wrong.
They prefer no pre slope under the liner?? That should be your first indication to find another tile guy, pre slope under the liner isn't optional it's fucking required for water to drain to the weep holes
It'll pass. I'm glad I ditched PVC liners a long time ago
What did you ditch it in lieu of ?
I'll use a bonding flange with sheet membrane. Generally a FloFX bonding flange/drain kit with hydroban sheet membrane.
Kerdi? PVC liners last when done properly.
Says the guy asking if it was done properly lol.
Let them work and stop hovering.
I’m not the homeowner you think I am. Please read my other comments.
You sound exactly like the homeowner so I’d assume most people think you are LOL
The membrane is loose bc there’s nothing holding it up between the studs (normal) The backer boards will hold it in place Stop hovering
Yes I’m aware. Please read my other comments. I’m not talking about between the studs. I’m mostly talking about the corners. One is about 3/4” out when I push it in. Also, I don’t believe he thinset the preslope to the subfloor.
It’s ok. If I walked into this as an installer I would double check everything and make sure the corners are as flat as possible and if I’m not happy I would just redo it myself. I wouldn’t install over something that’s not correct. The liner is down already let’s see what your tile dude says….. keep us posted on what he says lol
Tell your tile guy to charge double. He’s going to need it
He will just rip it out and redo it. I’ve worked with them on many projects. But I don’t want to pay the plumbers for it if that’s the case. My tiler can’t come look at it until he comes to tile next week.
Tbf, you did explicitly tell the plumber \*not\* to do the pan, but they did so anyhow - not sure where they’d stand if you refused to pay them for work you told them not to do?
Was on initial quote and then after we saw some quality issues I told them to finish their valve rough in and toilet (as they had started.) Left and came back to a pan. I just hope my tile crew doesn’t have issues with the thick folds in the corners.
That pan is perfect
In over 20 years I’ve never had a plumber do one that I didn’t have to reinstall correctly. They charge a bunch to do it to. Nowadays I try to avoid pan liners altogether and do a sealed system when I can.
Tile guy will charge to remove. Not a big deal. Did he place a preslope? Without that or sloped subfloor it's a fail.
Noble pro slope but not thinset to the subfloor.
have you looked at the [Noble Pro Slope Installation manual](https://noblecompany.com/storage/docs/resources/PS112016-11_Pro-Slope_Installation_Instructions.pdf)?
That’s a 2x4 wall . Your plumbing wall should be 2x6 . I’m assuming you are going to fir that walk out beyond the toilet face
Three part clamp drains with pvc liners are water in/water out systems. This essentially creates a 2” thick sand filter which gets saturated and soaked with everything that comes off your body when you shower. If done correctly, it won’t leak, but it’s disgusting nonetheless. Modern showers utilize bonded flanges. The water goes down the hole. Period. Now, demand a modern shower system by a qualified installer. As for the plumber, get him/her/they/them/it a calendar, circle 2024 with an obnoxious highlighter, then attach it to a bonded flange (Schluter, x-flo, laticrete, wedi…pick one) and give it to him with his PVC and his drain from the eighties. This system is gross and dated. It’s like electricians using knob and tube or plasterers using horse hair…I mean, they kinda work but c’mon son.
Cheap as possible tho. I think that's the goal here based off the work I see in the pics.
I disagree on this. These shower systems are fine when installed correctly. If the preslopes are present, as required by the specs, gravity will do its job. It's not at all like knob and tube which will burn your house down. 😂
Yea thats some bs, if it wasnt in his quote to do it dont pay him for it. Liner pans are obsolete, even when doing a mud bed its better to have topical waterproofing. If i was the tiler coming in i would probably just charge you a little something to rip it out. The whole wall needs to be furred out for the in wall toilet now, is the shower valve set to accommodate the extra depth?
That liner install is fine
I don’t like how the dam has a small overlap by the dam corner maybe only a half inch. I typically fold my corner making the pan like the inside of a box. I also use square pasco corners that cover the top of dam. Then I put Chen caulk over the seams where corner meets pan. We use brick for our curbs too and mastic the pan to the brick to keep the pan taught.
Why is the drain to one side rather than centered in the shower? Linear drain perhaps? If not a linear drain than the drain should be in the middle of the shower pan. If it can't be centered put a linear drain on the fixture wall. Dito on the brick. Wood curbs are stupid. They expand and contract while the tile does not. It will always lead to cracks in the grout on that curb. If I were the tile setter coming onto this job I would be surprised to see a pan in place already. I have never seen a plumber build a shower pan and the thought of it frightens me. But since it is there already I would go ahead and redo it, replacing the curb with brick and waterproofing the finished cement pan, curb and walls with ditra, redguard or hydroban. This turns the pvc liner into a secondary waterproofing. The pvc can handle more movement in the walls and floor than the modern systems can. I do both, or did, retired now, and have never had one fail with hundreds of them built.
Pan looks pretty good assuming the walls get furred as you mentioned in other posts. It looks like you have a cut on the liner on the outside of the curb. I'm anal enough to put another damn corner on the outside to be sure there's zero chance for a leak. Is the curb sloped properly into the pan about 1/8"?
Curb is level. The slope was going to be put on the backer board. I asked them to put another corner dam on the outside and he said he didn’t have any and they never did that.
They sell them at home depot at lowes for a couple bucks. Just pick them and add them yourself with a little bit of the oatey x15 glue. Super easy to do and woth the peace of mind, in my opinion.
Curb is level from left to right but is it sloped from outside to inside? If it's not sloped, when (not if) water gets to that liner at the curb, where will it go? Also, how do they plan on finishing that curb, will someone be floating it?
Level both ways. No slope to inside. I prefer wire mesh and float and no screws but my tile guys who have done a few for me (no issues yet) screw backer board to the top and outside, redguard, mesh, then float. Yea, I know it punctures the liner on the top… but they put down some sealer under where the screws will go and red guard the top.
This was partially the cause of my failure and I won't allow it again. They ran cement board over the entire curb. Because there was no preslope (liner sitting flat on the subfloor, partially sloped to two of the shower corners) the cement board which was sitting in the pan on the inside, began wicking water underneath the redgard layer, made its way to the penetrations in the liner, caused the 2x4 curb to begin swelling which led to cracks in the grout which allowed more water in and so on until the water made it to my 2nd floor ceiling and saturated the sheetrock just below the curb corner. The first thing to tip me off to an issue was the efflorescence that began leaching up from the mortar bed and onto the tile. Standing water is no joke, it will beat these materials. Your tile guy is doing it wrong and gambling with your time and money. It may take a few years, but they're going to fail. When I called the guy that installed mine back, his recommendation was to caulk the cracks in the grout and all the corners. When I refused, he stopped responding. They don't care too much after cashing your check, unfortunately.
I think the only real way around it is something like a kerdi curb. Without screwing somewhere I believe the backboard or float will flex and cause cracking. I do hear you on the curb level though, especially if it’s leaning towards a corner. Wood curbs are usually the first to fail. If concrete subfloor I use brick.
Metal lath or a 20 gauge mesh wire over bent to "hug" the curb and line and a type S mortar at least 1/2" thick isn't going anywhere. This also allows a glass installer to make their penetrations and bite into something that's not your liner and 2x4 curb. No additional waterproof layer is needed over the mortar. Your shower liner is your waterproofing. I'm sure you've heard and read the stories about mold sandwiches. I don't have any experience with this occurring but where does the water that gets underneath that cement board and redguard, go? Your mud bed will wick water to all surface area of the liner. If they're using cement board on the top and outside, anything on the inside? They'll need something to attach tile to. Please make sure they at least keep the edge of that cement board out of contact with the liner. I will keep my fingers crossed for you! 🙂 Best of luck! I'm sure you know this already but in case not and for others reading, there is plenty of great information on the john bridge forum. Also, Sal DiBlasi and TileCoach on YouTube and FloorElf's site I've all found to be fantastic sources on best practices.
I second Sal and tilecoach
Absolutely to the wire mesh and slope. Screws in the curb. I don't care what your tile setter does to ameliorate those screws, it is a stupid thing to do and something that can not be done if a proper brick curb is used. Teach your tile setter how to do it right since you keep hiring them.
Last thing, I promise. Is there any blocking in those stud bays? You can probably get away without it but I would want something supporting the back of my liner and the mud bed that's going in over it.
Minimal blocking, just where the valve and niche is. Nothing near the liner or the bed. I don’t believe I’ve ever blocked that low before. I could pull the liner down and nail a few. But I don’t know if that will ultimately make a big difference.
It should be fine. They always look like this when plumber do it. Plug and water test. Probably no pre slope. Plumbers are lazy.
I mean while it could be tighter and corners could be cleaner I think it’d be okay after the mud bed is installed and tightens everything up