Idk where you’re from but Signal Motorsport in Salem, MA put me in a built block from a 2019 Subaru sti RA, quoted for $10,500 with some extra goodies like upgraded oil pan, AOS. But you’d need to get front mount intercooler, fuel rails, injectors. These cars blow up because they’re top mount. They get too hot.
Also, WOT over fourth, I wish I had known before I blew my first engine.
Edit: I drive a 2018 STI
You can get a brand new full RA Short Block direct from Subaru for like $3k. I would go that route if the heads are good, and you could throw in some forged pistons for around $1000 if you wanted extra insurance
I was also thinking plus turbo, plus bits and pieces, idler, hardware, etc. Maybe another $1K or so.
I googled HWY 64, it's a salvage yard. So....yah, not sure.
A lot of stuff that was in great shape yes, that’s the key, replace your seals and gaskets obviously the cheaper stuff just get brand new, but use what you can
at that pricetag id buy a closed deck built block from either iag, teterautomotive or badderbuilt. then obviously transfer over your other components such as manifold, intake, turbo & other accessories.
RIP, 10k could have been a decent down payment on a new vehicle. Not saying I wouldn’t do the same if my engine blew. But it makes you think about the longevity of these cars.
That is impressive because these clutches are not the most user friendly. I’ve killed mine a few times backing up my driveway and I have been driving manual cars since 2006 lol. How you liking the car? There’s something about the GD chassis that is so satisfying. I love the smaller size, but they are still pretty comfortable. I love the EJ205 also.
I'm beyond happy. It's got a ton of mods and the dyno sheet he showed me says it's making 290WHP. I only really got on the boost once in 3rd and it scared the fuck out of me lol. I think the reason i haven't stalled is I've played lots of sim racing games for years and it's almost muscle memory at this point
*
Nice that’s a perfect amount of power since the engine can handle up to about 300whp without building it. I just have a catless downpipe and stage 2 ots tune on mine. Pulls pretty hard. Did fortune auto coilovers too but other than that it’s pretty stock. Got mine for $4k because it has hail damage.
Yeah this has new Tien coilovers, new seats front and back, new power steering pump, new timing belt. It's a rebuilt engine about 2 years old 55k miles on it. I just gotta get the AC fixed because the drive home was miserable. And the steering wheel is slightly off center but I don't really mind
Haha mines off center too but it drives straight. Might unbolt the wheel and realign it when I feel like it. Just did the timing belt and water pump and just ordered a new radiator and thermostat (preventive). Your AC might just need a recharge (mine did). Idk what to do about the hail damage though it’s pretty gnarly.. might just enjoy the car as is.
What color is yours? 🙂
Boight brand new shortblock from iag for $4k, had it assembled for 3500. Bought a upgraded hdss clutch while it was apart for 1k. I couldnt fathom having a similar quote
Just got mine fixed. Spun bearing $6522.89 sub-total $7,077.34 USD total $2500 for a brand new short block from Subaru. Kept the old heads. New clutch. Couple odds and ends. Good luck brother 🤞
https://preview.redd.it/4dy2tvqers8d1.jpeg?width=2250&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6138e4652ea91fea0f8f1033c50fb623324ba3cd
Here's my invoice. Left out my personal info, but the work was done at VSR performance in Vancouver, WA. Communicated almost exclusively with Tim and he was very transparent throughout the whole process. I'd definitely recommend them to anyone.
I did save some money because I replaced the water pump and timing belt before bringing it in cause it was over heating in hopes that that was what was causing the knocking sounds, but the damage had already been done, so they used the kit I purchased.
Told me 4-6 weeks and between $6-7k (before agreeing to a new clutch). Was done in exactly 3 weeks and was 7k with a clutch and taxes, so I'm overall satisfied with how everything turned out.
Lmk if you have any questions!
Yup! And they got the heads cleaned up and machined and polished at a local machining shop. The whole thing is nice and shiny underneath.
Still not holding my breath, though. Gotta start building the rainy day fund back up.
Yeah, Cobb OTS Stage 2. Invidia N1 Turboback. I think the car would've died even if I wasn't rocking an OTS tune. Water pump failed and bearings overheated when I was on the highway doing a 4th gear pull. Had around 40k miles with the Cobb ots. DAM never dropped below 1.000 and never had any major knock events, mostly just when the AC and thermostat opened. With that said, I'm still gonna throw it up on the dyno and get proper tune once I'm done breaking it in.
People thinking that running high rpm in high gears is bad. It stems from LSPI, which is don't go wide open at low rpm. They are fine at wide open in the high gears as long as you're out of the LSPI window which is around 2500-3000rpm.
Not necessarily. So today's modern ecus are very good (it's in the tuning) that preventing LSPI. This is why you see so many small displacement turbos in vehicles. Pre-ignition can be very harmful, but with an ECU that can read the slightest knocks, it can actually change the fueling and spark timing quick enough to prevent any issue 99.9999999999999% of the time. If the tune allows for it.
There was actually some flying of words back in the day over in the Focus ST arena with the COBB off the shelf tunes and how they skirted some of the protections to give more power. This ended up in quite a few people blowing out the ringlands on their pistons from LSPI. A good tune will basically remove almost any risk, but the more your pushing the engine, the greater the risk becomes.
On a stock tune, you have almost nothing to worry about. It's not GOOD for the engine, but the tune will react and usually keep it from any harm. This is why it's important to run quality fuels, quality parts, and absolutely have a quality tune from a professional who knows what they are doing. The Focus ST was especially susceptible to LSPI because of the k03 turbo. It is so small that it basically has zero lag and can just about instantly push over 24lbs of boost at even low rpms. 24lbs, 2000rpm, and full torque request is a bad combination for those motors. So the most basic way to protect the car was duty cycle, torque request limits, and lazy timing on the low end. That gives you the appearance of "turbo lag" in at lower rpm, but really helps eliminate the risk of LSPI.
Our motors are pretty decent on the setup. The turbo isn't as small, but it is capable of boosting decently quick. Though since it's limited on the stock tune, the risk is very minimal. Maybe once its tuned and pushing 60% more boost it would be more of a worry, but stock i doubt we will see many reports of LSPI.
You're welcome. I believe every small displacement turbocharged vehicle should come with a guide about LSPI and the do's and don'ts. You have to have the right set of variables to even experience LSPI, but every owner should be conscious about what it is and how it happens.
thank you for the peace of mind, many times i have been WOT over 4th gear and people saying stuff like this always gave me anxiety, though i correctly came to the conclusion that it wouldnt matter as long as im not lugging it
Exactly. LSPI happens in high boost at lower rpm. Basically ignition occurs early and if severe enough could do some damage. But most of today's vehicles have modern ecus tuned to control and limit the chances of LSPI almost completely. You'll be just fine running it out the top.
Honestly, reading this every single day, understanding how these cars are supposed to be maintained meaning, frequent oil changes, checking the viscosity of the oil running the exact oils and coolant recommended, always having an access port plugged in watching knock levels and learning them understanding why they knock when you turn your AC on understanding, why your DAM may drop when traveling with change in elevation. understanding all the little finicky things like your maf sensor or your intake being a centimeter from where it should be. And do not Mod these vehicles unless they are not your daily driver. When purchasing mods by the nice shit when something goes wrong, read this forum, and understand why, if not mechanic shops will take advantage of you. I tried to be aware, but there was already mods on the vehicle when purchased, and I think I only aided in the process of a spun rod. Just posted this for awareness tbh. Crazy to see the nightmare posts and then it actually happen.
Said it another post, so just C&Ping here...
People thinking that running high rpm in high gears is bad. It stems from LSPI, which is don't go wide open at low rpm. They are fine at wide open in the high gears as long as you're out of the LSPI window which is around 2500-3000rpm.
17 wrx Stage 2+
It’s my daily to school/work (50mi) had it for 4 years and learned how to drive on it.
90k miles
New clutch&fly 5k ago
Big SF
Grimm catted down pipe
Grimm EBCS
Remark Boso tips
Tuned by torqued performance (Eric minehart)
I did my own swap after watching a ton of YouTube after I blew my girl up.
Bought a JDM engine used plus a few goodies. $3k in parts and my own time. She’s running great 👍
https://preview.redd.it/c2nnmhfomw8d1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b1fbf6614fa87b6f00412bd0a7445f58e64a33bd
noted… And this build blew up as well..
I think somebody [has already done it in a 2015 VA](https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2952254). They're similarly sized motors, but I'm sure the mounts would be different. I'd assume it's easier than most other swaps.
Wow didn’t think anyone had done it yet. I know it’s going to be a while until every little kink is figured out, but this looks promising. Hopefully I never have to swap engines but if I do, I’ll probably go this route.
The FA20 seems to be relatively.... robust... if you stick around stock power levels and keep them properly maintained. If my engine blows, I'd likely jump ship to another platform.
Yeaaahh I’m kinda past that point lol. The genie is out the bottle, I’m already stage 2. Almost to the limit of the torque a stock tranny can handle. I do maintain it very well, and yet I still see people who say the same and their cars end up spinning a bearing anyways. Makes me a little nervous sometimes but I knew what I was getting into when I modded it. Thought about switching to something else if it happens also. I just really love the feel of the VA.
I’m currently trying to find a new vehicle because I really just don’t want to deal with the cost/time to rebuild mine (posted knock video yesterday). I’ve talked to a few dealerships and they’re open to taking it in on a trade- unsure of the value but I still owe 8k and the idea of tacking that onto another car loan with current apr rates makes me want to vomit 🤮
I’ll get another wrx someday but it won’t be a daily driver-strictly weekend/project car.
I called the dealership I bought it from and inquired about buying a new wrx (I’m not actually going to do that) I said it’s making some ticking sounds and I’m not comfortable driving it. They said they’d definitely take it but couldn’t give me a number until they actually saw it- my assumption is once they have it there they sort of have you right by the balls lol otherwise your towing it elsewhere.
Who TF told you not to WOT past 4th gear? That's the dumbest shit I've seen in a long time. I swear, this sub gets the craziest damn ideas about their cars sometimes.
What the hell? At this point I would buy an LS engine. I’ve seen a few videos of LS swaps into a Subaru I honestly don’t know the extent of fabrication if it needed a lot to make it fit but a 70k mile Subaru motor for that price seems crazy.
It is fully paid off. That was the main reason of posting in this sub Reddit. I am trying to determine whether sinking 5 to 10 grand into a car I may sell just to get my ass back… or do I take it to a local dealership and try to at least get five grand with it, knocking and wash my hands of it and finance a new vehicle. My credit is pretty good to get just about any loan but I do not want a large payment due to me being a college student if I didn’t have to drive 80 miles every day I would buy a shit box and wait to build the Subaru backup. From what I’m reading just getting an IAG short block and a few extra components and I would be good but I live in a small town and only shop is recommending that I buy this junkyard motor. I am definitely in a tough boat with some tough decisions to make but I loved my car and hope that I can still drive it one day. And the car is booking around 15,000 on KBB so with the replaced motor (10k) I might be able to get that and use it towards a new vehicle or push my luck and continue driving the Subaru until I’m changing more components. I got one year left of college and I’m not in the best place for a monthly payment. If you were in the same spot, what would you do?
Assuming you can stomach the lump payment of replacing the engine (definitely shop around, 10k is crazy expensive for a used engine), it's still way cheaper in the long run to fix your WRX and keep driving it. ~6-8k vs. 30k+ financed with awful interest rates.
For an entire used long block I’d say 5k minimum in working condition with a decent amt of miles on it BUT if I’m spending 11k for a rebuild it DAMN sure wouldn’t be for a used motor. Make some phone calls my man
Can someone please explain why it’s bad to WOT in 5th or 6th? I’ve never even had the chance to really and certainly won’t now that I know it’s bad, but I’d love to know the reason behind this. Thanks !
My experience just based off watching the AP, if I was in low rpm’s in 5,6 it would instantly pull -1.41 FKL. I would downshift and get to a higher rpm. If I let it hold the fkl too long, DAM would drop to .938,.812,.698,.568 and I’m down cases I’ve seen dam drop to .438. Not sure if it’s due to driving or gas or other issues explained in further comments. This is just my experience based on driving w/ basic mechanic knowledge.
Paying too much for a basic engine, like others have said some shops charge that much for an aftermarket engine build, so an oem one should be a lot cheaper
Update: I think I am going to go with a IAG short block and re use some parts off of the current engine. What other components will a shop require me to purchase before they will start the rebuild. And what is a reasonable timeframe and cost estimate for labor. Any ideas or suggestions are highly appreciated 🤘🏻
Links are helpful. I am in a 2017 WRX, gonna be dropping in a lightly used trans in as well. May sell it after the fix, may drive it and keep it forever. Just not too sure yet as I have a few options.
Personally I’m not afraid of these cars I know it can be a solid machine and I take religious care of mine. But I’m looking at selling for exactly this reason on the off chance my car goes in the next 5 years at least I’m not willing to spend well over 10k for a replacement motor.
Edit: that also seems like a shit ton for a used motor with 70k on it
I feel ya man. I just bought a 2018, and under 250 miles after I bought it, The rods started knocking. Now im looking at about the same and I haven't even broke it in. The warranty thankfully i fought and is paying.
I Paid a little more then that for a built block had the car back for less then a year then the trans went and so did my headache. Got rid of it and got a Miata couldn’t be happier. Only thing I miss about the wrx is the sound lol
That's for used engine? If yes I wouldn't take that..
No way, 8k for used one?
There must be engine builders in your area which will build proper forged engine for less or will match that?
I know prices shoot up but not as much 🤦♂️
ok I was racing my friend in his BRZ and I have a 22 WRX and he complained that he slowed down as he smelled his engine oil and I laughed at him...I will now reconsider!
Crawford and IAG both sell short blocks for under 5k. As long as your heads are still good you should be able to get a more stout engine with refreshed heads,new timing components and the oiling pieces for that price
Please don’t go used engine route unless you know where the engine came from, how it was treated when it was in use & where it was stored after removal. You can get a brand new short or even long block for the same or a bit more. Good luck to you.
I read the first line as engine - highway 64 and I've spent the last few minutes wondering how the hell only the engine was on 64 before I read the rest and realized it was a parts list.
This is why I quit doing shit earlier. I just want a daily with balls. Until I can afford another dedicated beater, I won't be doing anymore except steering and suspension. I'm sorry man, that's really shitty. I hope you're back on the road soon.
$15k here last month on my 2016 STi. new lower block, turbo, radiator, clutch, brakes, sparks, and labor. 72k on the engine when bearings failed. STi is fun, but sadly one the least reliable cars i ever owned.
I would send it.. get that repair.. can u get that WRX for that much? do you like the vehicle? know the rest of it well? when I rebuilt my engine after blown gasket.. to have it hit months later and misfire with 0 chance of repair.. I replaced it.. vehicle totaled within months.. 0 regrets.. it saved my life so many times.. the miles I got from it.. along with what I paid.. and the vehicle I got to have.. totally beat out a new lease.. even in retrospect..
if you want.. or use this vehicle for what it is.. then repair it IMO
Uncle Rodney seems to be knocking on everybody’s hood lately….. im so sorry to hear that you’re going through this. I literally just had Rod Knokkkkk and 10.2k & 3 weeks later she’s fixxedddddd and ready to go buttttty I definitely felt that shit and I’m still suffering the repercussions, but my car has 50k miles, I own && it’s been a dream of mine for years it sooo those were my reasons to fix it
I just had my heads and engine rebuilt with forged internals (99.75mm pistons) for just under $8000. I just took it in for the last break in oil change, then I'll be good to go.
I know they're not the same car but I did an engine swap in my 86 with the motor costing me less than 1300 from a salvaged car. It had 30k less miles to.
I’ve had two shops quote me 11k for a IAG Short Block, install and break in. I’d take a look around first.
Will do
Idk where you’re from but Signal Motorsport in Salem, MA put me in a built block from a 2019 Subaru sti RA, quoted for $10,500 with some extra goodies like upgraded oil pan, AOS. But you’d need to get front mount intercooler, fuel rails, injectors. These cars blow up because they’re top mount. They get too hot. Also, WOT over fourth, I wish I had known before I blew my first engine. Edit: I drive a 2018 STI
They don’t blow up because of a top mount, they blow up because you don’t do maintenance or check the oil and you abuse them
I did maintenance, and checked oil. And I did abuse it so oops!
This is good to know as I’m in Mass also. Adding to my google maps pins!
You gotta be at like 130 to even think about going into 5th gear during a race
11k omg I would’ve loved my shop to had said that for the IAG cause bro 14k is what she quoted me That’s not bad at all!!!!!
Which block was it ?
Ouch that sucks :( And yikes, $8k for an engine!? I hope that includes heads, turbo, literally everything.
For a USED engine. Unless hwy64 secretly dirtfish
Oh wow, eff that. I hope that currency is Canadian then :-/
USD my friend. 🤧
Double yikes. Get a second (and third) opinion. :(
You can get a brand new full RA Short Block direct from Subaru for like $3k. I would go that route if the heads are good, and you could throw in some forged pistons for around $1000 if you wanted extra insurance
Agreed. Shouldn’t it be … $3,000?
Nah, more than that for new components, depending on the components. I mean, for everything new, getting close to $8k is maybe okay. Used, no way.
An upfront short block is less than $5000 with forged internals. Pair of heads is $1300. I hope to god the $8000 is the cost of a built block.
I was also thinking plus turbo, plus bits and pieces, idler, hardware, etc. Maybe another $1K or so. I googled HWY 64, it's a salvage yard. So....yah, not sure.
Lmao $3k maybe for a Corolla's engine but definitely not that cheap when it comes to Subaru.
It’s not a Honda
I can get a used ford 4.6 for my Mustang for a couple hundred bucks and a handshake. lol
Is that a used engine!?
Yes w/ 70k on it 🙃
Used engine for 8k? You’re getting hosed.
I got a brand new short block literally brand new not used not refurbished and I got everything installed Around 6-8k
I had a buddy just sell a low mileage running engine for 5k. Drop in and go. I don’t even think PMP auto sells blocks for that much
I’ll have to find the receipts, but it was almost too good of a deal not to fucking do it considering how much short blocks are for these goddamn cars
Outfront forged block is less than 5k. I definitely recommend OP looking into that route. IAG550 is 4K.
Same. 6k parts. 500 of that was a last minute oem fly wheel. Oem short block is 2k from subaru.
Close. 2500 for short blocks is looks like right now
They are not $2500 from subaru. Mine was $2050 last spring. I see them still at that price. IAG and crawford sell them $2500.
Did you res use everything else?
A lot of stuff that was in great shape yes, that’s the key, replace your seals and gaskets obviously the cheaper stuff just get brand new, but use what you can
Bramd new oem short block from subaru is 2k. 2000$ in parts (oil pump, head gaskrt, turbo). $1000 for head work. Dont pay 8k for a used ej.
dude run away
70k is way too much miles to spend that kind of money, they engine is already substantially into it's life
Nah dog that's 30k miles from the dark place.
Bro 70k miles on that engine just gonna have you even more stressed about it after paying 10k. I’m praying for you bro
at that pricetag id buy a closed deck built block from either iag, teterautomotive or badderbuilt. then obviously transfer over your other components such as manifold, intake, turbo & other accessories.
They are taking you for a spin buddy. Just call 5 places!
RIP, 10k could have been a decent down payment on a new vehicle. Not saying I wouldn’t do the same if my engine blew. But it makes you think about the longevity of these cars.
That was the plan. Just a college student rn. So kinda shutting brix. 10k is crazy
I'm buying a 2004 blobeye tomorrow for 9k. To think that an engine replacement is basically totalling the car is nuts
You have an EJ205, you can rest a little easier in that knowledge.
Knowing that they haven’t been made in years and that they are becoming more rare and expensive every day that passes? :P
You will save a lot of money if you are good with engines.
What’s the feasibility of me dropping an engine in myself? How long would you say
ej205s are like $1000-1500, it’s chillin
And pretty reliable
Congrats! I also switched to a 2004 Blobeye wrx with 114k miles. Used to have an STi. My anxiety is way less. lol.
Just got home from buying it. Considering I haven't drove stick in a decade I didn't stall it once, surprised myself
That is impressive because these clutches are not the most user friendly. I’ve killed mine a few times backing up my driveway and I have been driving manual cars since 2006 lol. How you liking the car? There’s something about the GD chassis that is so satisfying. I love the smaller size, but they are still pretty comfortable. I love the EJ205 also.
I'm beyond happy. It's got a ton of mods and the dyno sheet he showed me says it's making 290WHP. I only really got on the boost once in 3rd and it scared the fuck out of me lol. I think the reason i haven't stalled is I've played lots of sim racing games for years and it's almost muscle memory at this point *
Nice that’s a perfect amount of power since the engine can handle up to about 300whp without building it. I just have a catless downpipe and stage 2 ots tune on mine. Pulls pretty hard. Did fortune auto coilovers too but other than that it’s pretty stock. Got mine for $4k because it has hail damage.
Yeah this has new Tien coilovers, new seats front and back, new power steering pump, new timing belt. It's a rebuilt engine about 2 years old 55k miles on it. I just gotta get the AC fixed because the drive home was miserable. And the steering wheel is slightly off center but I don't really mind
Haha mines off center too but it drives straight. Might unbolt the wheel and realign it when I feel like it. Just did the timing belt and water pump and just ordered a new radiator and thermostat (preventive). Your AC might just need a recharge (mine did). Idk what to do about the hail damage though it’s pretty gnarly.. might just enjoy the car as is. What color is yours? 🙂
The thing is...cars don't suddenly get placated and stop having issues because you bought and put in a new engine.
Had my 2020 for going on 4 years and 110k miles. To say it's not on my mind would be a lie, but I don't best tf out of mine by any means.
My 2019 is just into 24k miles 😅
I drive a lot 💀 back and forth hometown to current home is 2k miles total and I've been doing that once or twice a year, on top of other trips
Boight brand new shortblock from iag for $4k, had it assembled for 3500. Bought a upgraded hdss clutch while it was apart for 1k. I couldnt fathom having a similar quote
Just got mine fixed. Spun bearing $6522.89 sub-total $7,077.34 USD total $2500 for a brand new short block from Subaru. Kept the old heads. New clutch. Couple odds and ends. Good luck brother 🤞
I am definitely going to look into this. I may reach out to get some more details. Appreciate the support 💪🏼
https://preview.redd.it/4dy2tvqers8d1.jpeg?width=2250&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6138e4652ea91fea0f8f1033c50fb623324ba3cd Here's my invoice. Left out my personal info, but the work was done at VSR performance in Vancouver, WA. Communicated almost exclusively with Tim and he was very transparent throughout the whole process. I'd definitely recommend them to anyone. I did save some money because I replaced the water pump and timing belt before bringing it in cause it was over heating in hopes that that was what was causing the knocking sounds, but the damage had already been done, so they used the kit I purchased. Told me 4-6 weeks and between $6-7k (before agreeing to a new clutch). Was done in exactly 3 weeks and was 7k with a clutch and taxes, so I'm overall satisfied with how everything turned out. Lmk if you have any questions!
Did you replace the oil pump and all parts that touch oil? If you didn't, there is a high likelihood it will spin a rod again.
Yup! And they got the heads cleaned up and machined and polished at a local machining shop. The whole thing is nice and shiny underneath. Still not holding my breath, though. Gotta start building the rainy day fund back up.
Yeah, that is A good price then.👌 I might have to hit them up as I am in Tacoma WA.
were you modded, tuned, etc?
Yeah, Cobb OTS Stage 2. Invidia N1 Turboback. I think the car would've died even if I wasn't rocking an OTS tune. Water pump failed and bearings overheated when I was on the highway doing a 4th gear pull. Had around 40k miles with the Cobb ots. DAM never dropped below 1.000 and never had any major knock events, mostly just when the AC and thermostat opened. With that said, I'm still gonna throw it up on the dyno and get proper tune once I'm done breaking it in.
Right on.
I’d definitely shop around. I’ve put 3 replacements in my 03 wagon. 6.5k every time. Mind you one of those was free, but definitely shop around.
Lol. Don’t wide open throttle over 4th. What’s the point of buying one of these cars…
People thinking that running high rpm in high gears is bad. It stems from LSPI, which is don't go wide open at low rpm. They are fine at wide open in the high gears as long as you're out of the LSPI window which is around 2500-3000rpm.
Just learned something new today! Had no idea about this, I've probably been doing irreversible damage to my car... 😅
Not necessarily. So today's modern ecus are very good (it's in the tuning) that preventing LSPI. This is why you see so many small displacement turbos in vehicles. Pre-ignition can be very harmful, but with an ECU that can read the slightest knocks, it can actually change the fueling and spark timing quick enough to prevent any issue 99.9999999999999% of the time. If the tune allows for it. There was actually some flying of words back in the day over in the Focus ST arena with the COBB off the shelf tunes and how they skirted some of the protections to give more power. This ended up in quite a few people blowing out the ringlands on their pistons from LSPI. A good tune will basically remove almost any risk, but the more your pushing the engine, the greater the risk becomes. On a stock tune, you have almost nothing to worry about. It's not GOOD for the engine, but the tune will react and usually keep it from any harm. This is why it's important to run quality fuels, quality parts, and absolutely have a quality tune from a professional who knows what they are doing. The Focus ST was especially susceptible to LSPI because of the k03 turbo. It is so small that it basically has zero lag and can just about instantly push over 24lbs of boost at even low rpms. 24lbs, 2000rpm, and full torque request is a bad combination for those motors. So the most basic way to protect the car was duty cycle, torque request limits, and lazy timing on the low end. That gives you the appearance of "turbo lag" in at lower rpm, but really helps eliminate the risk of LSPI. Our motors are pretty decent on the setup. The turbo isn't as small, but it is capable of boosting decently quick. Though since it's limited on the stock tune, the risk is very minimal. Maybe once its tuned and pushing 60% more boost it would be more of a worry, but stock i doubt we will see many reports of LSPI.
Thanks for the heads up! I had no idea 🤷♂️
You're welcome. I believe every small displacement turbocharged vehicle should come with a guide about LSPI and the do's and don'ts. You have to have the right set of variables to even experience LSPI, but every owner should be conscious about what it is and how it happens.
thank you for the peace of mind, many times i have been WOT over 4th gear and people saying stuff like this always gave me anxiety, though i correctly came to the conclusion that it wouldnt matter as long as im not lugging it
Exactly. LSPI happens in high boost at lower rpm. Basically ignition occurs early and if severe enough could do some damage. But most of today's vehicles have modern ecus tuned to control and limit the chances of LSPI almost completely. You'll be just fine running it out the top.
tips to avoid? not just “take care of your wrx” where did things go wrong?
If you look at his other comments, it seems like it was a lot of gear banging and mischief, made it to 90k miles before kaboom.
new to cars and am driving cvt. what’s gearbanging? is that just aggressively shifting gears?
Honestly, reading this every single day, understanding how these cars are supposed to be maintained meaning, frequent oil changes, checking the viscosity of the oil running the exact oils and coolant recommended, always having an access port plugged in watching knock levels and learning them understanding why they knock when you turn your AC on understanding, why your DAM may drop when traveling with change in elevation. understanding all the little finicky things like your maf sensor or your intake being a centimeter from where it should be. And do not Mod these vehicles unless they are not your daily driver. When purchasing mods by the nice shit when something goes wrong, read this forum, and understand why, if not mechanic shops will take advantage of you. I tried to be aware, but there was already mods on the vehicle when purchased, and I think I only aided in the process of a spun rod. Just posted this for awareness tbh. Crazy to see the nightmare posts and then it actually happen.
What's with the don't wot over 4th...? Just curious
Said it another post, so just C&Ping here... People thinking that running high rpm in high gears is bad. It stems from LSPI, which is don't go wide open at low rpm. They are fine at wide open in the high gears as long as you're out of the LSPI window which is around 2500-3000rpm.
Gotcha.
At that point I would just buy a new one.
That really really sucks. But I have to know more details: Year Mileage Mod list
17 wrx Stage 2+ It’s my daily to school/work (50mi) had it for 4 years and learned how to drive on it. 90k miles New clutch&fly 5k ago Big SF Grimm catted down pipe Grimm EBCS Remark Boso tips Tuned by torqued performance (Eric minehart)
New clutch at 90k . That tells the whole story right there lol.
How long should the clutch last ?
I made it to 140k
I did my own swap after watching a ton of YouTube after I blew my girl up. Bought a JDM engine used plus a few goodies. $3k in parts and my own time. She’s running great 👍
https://preview.redd.it/c2nnmhfomw8d1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b1fbf6614fa87b6f00412bd0a7445f58e64a33bd noted… And this build blew up as well..
Spend that money on a VB with the much better engine. The FA20 just isn't worth the money or investment man.
I wonder if anyone has done a fa24 swap into a VA chasis. If I ever blew my engine , I’d look into that instead of another fa20.
I think somebody [has already done it in a 2015 VA](https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2952254). They're similarly sized motors, but I'm sure the mounts would be different. I'd assume it's easier than most other swaps.
Wow didn’t think anyone had done it yet. I know it’s going to be a while until every little kink is figured out, but this looks promising. Hopefully I never have to swap engines but if I do, I’ll probably go this route.
The FA20 seems to be relatively.... robust... if you stick around stock power levels and keep them properly maintained. If my engine blows, I'd likely jump ship to another platform.
Yeaaahh I’m kinda past that point lol. The genie is out the bottle, I’m already stage 2. Almost to the limit of the torque a stock tranny can handle. I do maintain it very well, and yet I still see people who say the same and their cars end up spinning a bearing anyways. Makes me a little nervous sometimes but I knew what I was getting into when I modded it. Thought about switching to something else if it happens also. I just really love the feel of the VA.
I thought it was an ej. But holy shit an FA20?!
I’m currently trying to find a new vehicle because I really just don’t want to deal with the cost/time to rebuild mine (posted knock video yesterday). I’ve talked to a few dealerships and they’re open to taking it in on a trade- unsure of the value but I still owe 8k and the idea of tacking that onto another car loan with current apr rates makes me want to vomit 🤮 I’ll get another wrx someday but it won’t be a daily driver-strictly weekend/project car.
Hmm maybe I will look into this. Will Subaru dealers buy it knocking like it is?
I called the dealership I bought it from and inquired about buying a new wrx (I’m not actually going to do that) I said it’s making some ticking sounds and I’m not comfortable driving it. They said they’d definitely take it but couldn’t give me a number until they actually saw it- my assumption is once they have it there they sort of have you right by the balls lol otherwise your towing it elsewhere.
What year is your car
Who TF told you not to WOT past 4th gear? That's the dumbest shit I've seen in a long time. I swear, this sub gets the craziest damn ideas about their cars sometimes.
Go to a performance shop. In Arizona, I had a built short block with forged internals done for $4,350 + $500 install.
This included a brand new short block from Subaru btw
Which shop
Does that include the labor?
Posts like this remind me that I made the right choice getting rid of mine
Why are engine blocks so freaking expensive? I almost feel like you're better off selling the car as is and buying a new one. Insanity.
Because it's an engine and there's a lot of service hours to build/rebuild one....
Time to use antique technology 
Begone knave.
Why disrespect the horsey😔
1 horse power goes a long way.
As an RDO player I support this. 😂🤠
did you not check your oil? condolences
I did, always had enough, just let it break down too much. definitely could’ve been better. Tough lesson, I guess.
🙏
What the hell? At this point I would buy an LS engine. I’ve seen a few videos of LS swaps into a Subaru I honestly don’t know the extent of fabrication if it needed a lot to make it fit but a 70k mile Subaru motor for that price seems crazy.
the harnesses would be a nightmare
I had a used engine installed for a roller I bought a few years back. Was $7k all in.
I’m at 14500 miles and never did the 12k check up. When should I worry about the trans fluid
30k miles
A shop near me quoted $12k for a used engine install, or $17k for a new one 🥲
That's a used engine? I just got a used JDM ej205 engine+ installation for 2400 . Granted it's a shady shop, but still.
Can you put that in an 2013?
I mean you can get a JDM ej255 I would assume 🤷
Lol idk where u are but NF performance can probably help you out here
Do you owe on the car? 10k is a waste of money on any college budget.
It is fully paid off. That was the main reason of posting in this sub Reddit. I am trying to determine whether sinking 5 to 10 grand into a car I may sell just to get my ass back… or do I take it to a local dealership and try to at least get five grand with it, knocking and wash my hands of it and finance a new vehicle. My credit is pretty good to get just about any loan but I do not want a large payment due to me being a college student if I didn’t have to drive 80 miles every day I would buy a shit box and wait to build the Subaru backup. From what I’m reading just getting an IAG short block and a few extra components and I would be good but I live in a small town and only shop is recommending that I buy this junkyard motor. I am definitely in a tough boat with some tough decisions to make but I loved my car and hope that I can still drive it one day. And the car is booking around 15,000 on KBB so with the replaced motor (10k) I might be able to get that and use it towards a new vehicle or push my luck and continue driving the Subaru until I’m changing more components. I got one year left of college and I’m not in the best place for a monthly payment. If you were in the same spot, what would you do?
Assuming you can stomach the lump payment of replacing the engine (definitely shop around, 10k is crazy expensive for a used engine), it's still way cheaper in the long run to fix your WRX and keep driving it. ~6-8k vs. 30k+ financed with awful interest rates.
For an entire used long block I’d say 5k minimum in working condition with a decent amt of miles on it BUT if I’m spending 11k for a rebuild it DAMN sure wouldn’t be for a used motor. Make some phone calls my man
How old? How many miles in your original engine?
Can someone please explain why it’s bad to WOT in 5th or 6th? I’ve never even had the chance to really and certainly won’t now that I know it’s bad, but I’d love to know the reason behind this. Thanks !
My experience just based off watching the AP, if I was in low rpm’s in 5,6 it would instantly pull -1.41 FKL. I would downshift and get to a higher rpm. If I let it hold the fkl too long, DAM would drop to .938,.812,.698,.568 and I’m down cases I’ve seen dam drop to .438. Not sure if it’s due to driving or gas or other issues explained in further comments. This is just my experience based on driving w/ basic mechanic knowledge.
Paying too much for a basic engine, like others have said some shops charge that much for an aftermarket engine build, so an oem one should be a lot cheaper
Update: I think I am going to go with a IAG short block and re use some parts off of the current engine. What other components will a shop require me to purchase before they will start the rebuild. And what is a reasonable timeframe and cost estimate for labor. Any ideas or suggestions are highly appreciated 🤘🏻 Links are helpful. I am in a 2017 WRX, gonna be dropping in a lightly used trans in as well. May sell it after the fix, may drive it and keep it forever. Just not too sure yet as I have a few options.
Bro 24 monies for an oil filter....
Personally I’m not afraid of these cars I know it can be a solid machine and I take religious care of mine. But I’m looking at selling for exactly this reason on the off chance my car goes in the next 5 years at least I’m not willing to spend well over 10k for a replacement motor. Edit: that also seems like a shit ton for a used motor with 70k on it
I feel ya man. I just bought a 2018, and under 250 miles after I bought it, The rods started knocking. Now im looking at about the same and I haven't even broke it in. The warranty thankfully i fought and is paying.
I Paid a little more then that for a built block had the car back for less then a year then the trans went and so did my headache. Got rid of it and got a Miata couldn’t be happier. Only thing I miss about the wrx is the sound lol
are you mechanically inclined? rebuild it yourself 😎
That's for used engine? If yes I wouldn't take that.. No way, 8k for used one? There must be engine builders in your area which will build proper forged engine for less or will match that? I know prices shoot up but not as much 🤦♂️
Yikes. That is cray cray money!
ok I was racing my friend in his BRZ and I have a 22 WRX and he complained that he slowed down as he smelled his engine oil and I laughed at him...I will now reconsider!
Why does this happen to a lot of WRX’s. Why are they almost cursed for this to happen.
WRX and new engine go together like Crosby Stills and Nash... it's just part of that WRX life.
That's a rip off for used and a 70k used motor is insane
Crawford and IAG both sell short blocks for under 5k. As long as your heads are still good you should be able to get a more stout engine with refreshed heads,new timing components and the oiling pieces for that price
Bro for this price you can go built motor and have way more reliability. Go a different route
What mods when Rodney came?? What did Tuner say? Mileage?
Might as well get a new engine and have it built for that price
Please don’t go used engine route unless you know where the engine came from, how it was treated when it was in use & where it was stored after removal. You can get a brand new short or even long block for the same or a bit more. Good luck to you.
I read the first line as engine - highway 64 and I've spent the last few minutes wondering how the hell only the engine was on 64 before I read the rest and realized it was a parts list.
Just do it yourself what do you mean? It’s a boxer engine. It’s not that hard to get to or work on. cherry picker from HarborFreight. start cracking.
If you can do it yourself it’s about 5k for a type RA block, seal kit, fluids, timing kit and even sending heads off.
That better be a brand new engine with everything included for 8k
hate to be the noob but what does WOT mean? and when you say check MAF do you mean like, making sure the sensor is clean or paying attention to AFR?
hold on, i used the power of ‘thinking’ and just realized it probably means wide open throttle lmao
That’s kinda cheap yo. Expect failure every 50-100k miles if you drive it! Mine cost 14-15k to do myself!
Did you buy this car used?
At this point I’d sell it for whatever I could and just get a civic type R and live happily ever after.
This only means you have to get an iag and make it fast now :)
Don’t let anyone change your oil either, you will be fucked
That's crazy. I paid 11k CAD for a brand new short block installed, everything machined & cleaned & a new clutch kit
This is why I quit doing shit earlier. I just want a daily with balls. Until I can afford another dedicated beater, I won't be doing anymore except steering and suspension. I'm sorry man, that's really shitty. I hope you're back on the road soon.
$15k here last month on my 2016 STi. new lower block, turbo, radiator, clutch, brakes, sparks, and labor. 72k on the engine when bearings failed. STi is fun, but sadly one the least reliable cars i ever owned.
What year is your car? How many miles? And did you mod it?
I bought a OEM shortblock from DEFINEDUSA.COM for 2k and got it installed for 3k
I bought an EJ20x from JDMEnginesChicago for like 4k with less than 40k miles on it. Parts and labor I was out the door less than 6.5k.
I'm on brand new engine number 3 and each time it was $6k. Shop around for sure.
Please don't do this! I got a brand new type Ra block with the STI turbo installed for that price. All of it was new.
That's a pretty good down payment on a brand new one
This is why engines shouldnt be laid sideways as cool as they sound
Trick is to enjoy the hell out of a new one for 3 or 4 years, for about 36,000 to 48,000 miles... then doitagain.
Buy a motorcycle instead, fuck that wrx lol
Most def getting waxed on that used engine
What is WOT over 4th mean? Sorry still learning
I would send it.. get that repair.. can u get that WRX for that much? do you like the vehicle? know the rest of it well? when I rebuilt my engine after blown gasket.. to have it hit months later and misfire with 0 chance of repair.. I replaced it.. vehicle totaled within months.. 0 regrets.. it saved my life so many times.. the miles I got from it.. along with what I paid.. and the vehicle I got to have.. totally beat out a new lease.. even in retrospect.. if you want.. or use this vehicle for what it is.. then repair it IMO
Is this your only quote? Definitely shop around. That's ridiculous.
My 06 Hawkeye just popped on the check engine light kind of scared. I still need to check the code reader so I’ve been limping it under 3k
Sti
What does WOT mean?
Uncle Rodney seems to be knocking on everybody’s hood lately….. im so sorry to hear that you’re going through this. I literally just had Rod Knokkkkk and 10.2k & 3 weeks later she’s fixxedddddd and ready to go buttttty I definitely felt that shit and I’m still suffering the repercussions, but my car has 50k miles, I own && it’s been a dream of mine for years it sooo those were my reasons to fix it
I wonder how mich would be if you already had a fully built block? I mean, only the labor.
WOAH, I paid $8k all in for mine labour and all. Engine was brand new 0km
800 in just taxes, that is just frickin crazy!
Don’t even try to work with that shop to lower the price. The astronomical price gouging should be a red flag. Move on.
You can’t tell me what to do! (Been there. Sorry you’re dealing with this OP)
So these cars can’t handle wot over 4th gear? That’s kinda ridiculous
What’s your mileage roughly? If you don’t mind me asking
I just had my heads and engine rebuilt with forged internals (99.75mm pistons) for just under $8000. I just took it in for the last break in oil change, then I'll be good to go.
https://preview.redd.it/jvzrj5u3m69d1.jpeg?width=1290&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b9f54b314620e8be912ebea715c377e00a6430a4
I know they're not the same car but I did an engine swap in my 86 with the motor costing me less than 1300 from a salvaged car. It had 30k less miles to.