I'd look up the the specs and calculate the db loss per dollar spent for each option. Pick the one w/ the lowest loss per dollar spent. Don't forget to figure in connectors/heatshrink/strain reliefs in the cost of the unterminated cable option.
Generic LMR spec cables are generally what they say they are and are fine for home use. I would not buy them from Amazon or eBay though unless you have a means for verifying performance.
It is important to consider the mechanical aspect of the run - where it's going, how tightly it will need to bend, how you plan to fasten it. LMR-400 is kinda stiff. LMR-600 even stiffer, verging on obnoxious. There are variants intended for direct burial, etc.
In practice, the dB loss in LMR-400 or 600 can probably be made up by using an antenna with more gain.
At your frequencies N connectors are a good idea but the insertion loss and mismatch losses are likely to be of the lowest order (~.5 dB in [one test](https://www.hamradio.me/connectors/uhf-connector-test-results.html)). Also, while N connectors are supposedly weatherproof, in practice, they are not. You still need to wrap the connections with self-vulcanizing tape covered by a layer of electrical tape if you want it to last through your rainy season.
[Coax loss calculator](https://kv5r.com/ham-radio/coax-loss-calculator/)
LMR-600, 100', 1.5 VSWR, 440 MHz = -1.8 dB
LMR-400, 100', 1.5 VSWR, 440 MHz = -2.8 dB
RG-8X, 100', 1.5 VSWR, 440 MHz = -8.3 dB
Compare this to typical gain from increasingly taller vertical antennas (9 dBi @ 10' 5", 12 dBi @ 16' 9") and you can see that LMR-400 vs LMR-600 and especially the connector choice are low-order decisions compared to the antenna and its placement.
Repeater work braid over shield should not be used when your going to be simultaneously transmitting and receiving on the same coax. You have 2 dissimilar metals so you get passive intermod. So skip th LMR and clones except LMR-LW thats uses and al brade over al foil.
rg-8 is cheap it's 1db off from the lmr-400 for 60f
rg-214 pricy but similar.
What about the KMR-400? I just bought a 75 ft run of the KMR400 with PL-259 connectors for about $75. Figured not a bad price - similar to what the RG-8 or RG-8U would probably cost me.
I have a 10-meter dipole antenna using 16-gauge tinned stranded copper wire with PVC insulation, going to an SO-239 connector. I have it up nearly 20 feet.
Do you think it would help or hurt if I am using a ferrite core ring (240-31) at the antenna feed point and have the KMR400 going through it a couple times, along with a ferrite bead right at the feed point as well?
Or should i remove it? The sunspot number has been pretty bad the last few days (at 149 today). So I'm wondering if I should just wait and see....or to just take it off because i'm getting crap for reception.
I need to make a new dipole anyways today. Wish I had a 1:1 Balun for the center feed point of the dipole.
I'm going to raise it higher if I am able to. Would require another 20ft mast using another 20ft toprail and cementing a 4ft PVC base into the ground. I'm going to attach a 10ft toprail to the top of the 20ft for a total of 30ft and either weld or bolt them together using PVC in the middle where they connect to prevent wobbles.
KMR400 same issues tinner copper over AL but this is only if you're running a repeater or similarly transmitting and receiving over the same coax simultaneously.
LMR-400 and similar are overkill for HF.
Chokes what issues are you having? RF in the shack then yea add chokes at the feedpoint.
I'd look up the the specs and calculate the db loss per dollar spent for each option. Pick the one w/ the lowest loss per dollar spent. Don't forget to figure in connectors/heatshrink/strain reliefs in the cost of the unterminated cable option.
Though they are somehow traditional, UHF connectors are terrible and I would avoid them. N connectors are excellent.
UHF (pl-259/so-239) are great for HF, but if you are operating above be 6m, N is far preferred…Â
There are online calculators for determining loss per foot per frequency for almost every coaxial cable. I don't see Bolton listed however.
Generic LMR spec cables are generally what they say they are and are fine for home use. I would not buy them from Amazon or eBay though unless you have a means for verifying performance. It is important to consider the mechanical aspect of the run - where it's going, how tightly it will need to bend, how you plan to fasten it. LMR-400 is kinda stiff. LMR-600 even stiffer, verging on obnoxious. There are variants intended for direct burial, etc. In practice, the dB loss in LMR-400 or 600 can probably be made up by using an antenna with more gain. At your frequencies N connectors are a good idea but the insertion loss and mismatch losses are likely to be of the lowest order (~.5 dB in [one test](https://www.hamradio.me/connectors/uhf-connector-test-results.html)). Also, while N connectors are supposedly weatherproof, in practice, they are not. You still need to wrap the connections with self-vulcanizing tape covered by a layer of electrical tape if you want it to last through your rainy season. [Coax loss calculator](https://kv5r.com/ham-radio/coax-loss-calculator/) LMR-600, 100', 1.5 VSWR, 440 MHz = -1.8 dB LMR-400, 100', 1.5 VSWR, 440 MHz = -2.8 dB RG-8X, 100', 1.5 VSWR, 440 MHz = -8.3 dB Compare this to typical gain from increasingly taller vertical antennas (9 dBi @ 10' 5", 12 dBi @ 16' 9") and you can see that LMR-400 vs LMR-600 and especially the connector choice are low-order decisions compared to the antenna and its placement.
Repeater work braid over shield should not be used when your going to be simultaneously transmitting and receiving on the same coax. You have 2 dissimilar metals so you get passive intermod. So skip th LMR and clones except LMR-LW thats uses and al brade over al foil. rg-8 is cheap it's 1db off from the lmr-400 for 60f rg-214 pricy but similar.
What about the KMR-400? I just bought a 75 ft run of the KMR400 with PL-259 connectors for about $75. Figured not a bad price - similar to what the RG-8 or RG-8U would probably cost me. I have a 10-meter dipole antenna using 16-gauge tinned stranded copper wire with PVC insulation, going to an SO-239 connector. I have it up nearly 20 feet. Do you think it would help or hurt if I am using a ferrite core ring (240-31) at the antenna feed point and have the KMR400 going through it a couple times, along with a ferrite bead right at the feed point as well? Or should i remove it? The sunspot number has been pretty bad the last few days (at 149 today). So I'm wondering if I should just wait and see....or to just take it off because i'm getting crap for reception. I need to make a new dipole anyways today. Wish I had a 1:1 Balun for the center feed point of the dipole. I'm going to raise it higher if I am able to. Would require another 20ft mast using another 20ft toprail and cementing a 4ft PVC base into the ground. I'm going to attach a 10ft toprail to the top of the 20ft for a total of 30ft and either weld or bolt them together using PVC in the middle where they connect to prevent wobbles.
KMR400 same issues tinner copper over AL but this is only if you're running a repeater or similarly transmitting and receiving over the same coax simultaneously. LMR-400 and similar are overkill for HF. Chokes what issues are you having? RF in the shack then yea add chokes at the feedpoint.