Galvanized pipe w/ flanges for toekick.
That’s if you are more concerned about water than critters. I know in my workshop mice and spiders are more of problem then water, so I just have a solid pressure treated toekick that tapers. Which eliminates that under cabinet space for mice and spiders to call home
Do you ever get water come that way? If you do I'd use metal legs and ideally a metal plate for toe kick. You don't want galvanised steel against the concrete base so you want a plastic trim. Just make sure there's vents so you don't get damp underneath.
As for height I'd use the centre for whatever height I chose. Some things you want lower work height for and some things you can have a higher.
Honestly not, mostly just slush from the car in the winter since I park in the garage as well. but it tends to do its job and flow down and out not to the sides of the garage
Put a level bottom cleat on the wall, rest the box on the cleat and screw the cab backs into the wall at studs. I’d put a 2x4 flush in between each cabinet front and screw the sides in to deal with any inconsistency in the floor. Then just leave the bottom open. It’s another space to cram shit into.
Top the whole run with a big old formica block.
3 ~5' ladder toe-kicks each in varrying heights (say 6", 4.5", 3" idk how heavy of a slope you have) to account for slope. Screw them alltogether with top flush to each other. Shim to level. No need to have 3" of shims on one side. Touching ground on the other. Instead it would be like the garage door side of each toekick is always touching the ground and the opposite side is shimmed 3/4"
If I was going to redo the base cabinets in my garage, I would do legs and a removable kick plate. Legs instead of a ladder because the ladder will eventually need to be replaced and a kick plate instead of leaving it open so that spiders, dirt, and other crap can't get under there easily.
For your height, forget about the "norm" for a moment. Think about a typical project that you will be working on at your bench. Now go into your kitchen and stand at your counter and imagine that you are working on this project at that counter. Would you find a different height to be more comfortable? Your kitchen counter probably measures 36" but you should check that before deciding on a height for your bench.
I guess it depends on what you’re using the cabinets for. It could be cool and easy to setup a level French cleat system along the wall to drop the cabinets onto, but if you were gonna be loaded these boxes up with weight or decided to take up something rigorous like woodworking with hand tools, floating probably isn’t the best idea. You could also make normal cabinets and then install cabinet leveling feet, but that would mean you have 16ft worth of boxes to manually adjust until they’re all correct. I would say build detached toe kicks from your boxes; that way all your attention can go into leveling the toe kick itself and then you can just make normal square cabinets to sit on top of them.
For a workbench I'd take the average height and install base for the cases to sit on. I wouldn't make a floating bench personally, but to each their own.
If you have any tool boxes (or the likes) you're planning to have under the bench top, that box height and placement will determine heights.
Cabinets are all totally square and level. The base is adjustable to account for the slope. This is the way it’s always done, regardless of how extremely the floor is out of level. If you have a baseboard on it, it will be tapered to match the slope.
I'd use some sort of threaded insert and actual feet. Then the feet can be adjusted to lift and level instead of using standard shims.
In that instance, I would install adjustable stainless legs on the front base of the cabinet and use a cleat on the wall in the back.
Galvanized pipe w/ flanges for toekick. That’s if you are more concerned about water than critters. I know in my workshop mice and spiders are more of problem then water, so I just have a solid pressure treated toekick that tapers. Which eliminates that under cabinet space for mice and spiders to call home
Shims
Build a platform scribing let’s say a 2x6 and ply to make a level base to set the cabinets on
Do you ever get water come that way? If you do I'd use metal legs and ideally a metal plate for toe kick. You don't want galvanised steel against the concrete base so you want a plastic trim. Just make sure there's vents so you don't get damp underneath. As for height I'd use the centre for whatever height I chose. Some things you want lower work height for and some things you can have a higher.
Honestly not, mostly just slush from the car in the winter since I park in the garage as well. but it tends to do its job and flow down and out not to the sides of the garage
Put a level bottom cleat on the wall, rest the box on the cleat and screw the cab backs into the wall at studs. I’d put a 2x4 flush in between each cabinet front and screw the sides in to deal with any inconsistency in the floor. Then just leave the bottom open. It’s another space to cram shit into. Top the whole run with a big old formica block.
Legs with toe kick clip and scribe the toe kick. Something like this. https://a.co/d/07cog2K5
3 ~5' ladder toe-kicks each in varrying heights (say 6", 4.5", 3" idk how heavy of a slope you have) to account for slope. Screw them alltogether with top flush to each other. Shim to level. No need to have 3" of shims on one side. Touching ground on the other. Instead it would be like the garage door side of each toekick is always touching the ground and the opposite side is shimmed 3/4"
If I was going to redo the base cabinets in my garage, I would do legs and a removable kick plate. Legs instead of a ladder because the ladder will eventually need to be replaced and a kick plate instead of leaving it open so that spiders, dirt, and other crap can't get under there easily. For your height, forget about the "norm" for a moment. Think about a typical project that you will be working on at your bench. Now go into your kitchen and stand at your counter and imagine that you are working on this project at that counter. Would you find a different height to be more comfortable? Your kitchen counter probably measures 36" but you should check that before deciding on a height for your bench.
I guess it depends on what you’re using the cabinets for. It could be cool and easy to setup a level French cleat system along the wall to drop the cabinets onto, but if you were gonna be loaded these boxes up with weight or decided to take up something rigorous like woodworking with hand tools, floating probably isn’t the best idea. You could also make normal cabinets and then install cabinet leveling feet, but that would mean you have 16ft worth of boxes to manually adjust until they’re all correct. I would say build detached toe kicks from your boxes; that way all your attention can go into leveling the toe kick itself and then you can just make normal square cabinets to sit on top of them.
Thanks all! Given me a lot of options to think about. Appreciate it
Personally i would level out a cleat on the wall and use adjusting legs in the front. Kick plate optional.
For a workbench I'd take the average height and install base for the cases to sit on. I wouldn't make a floating bench personally, but to each their own. If you have any tool boxes (or the likes) you're planning to have under the bench top, that box height and placement will determine heights.
Cabinets are all totally square and level. The base is adjustable to account for the slope. This is the way it’s always done, regardless of how extremely the floor is out of level. If you have a baseboard on it, it will be tapered to match the slope.