I recently acquired this box and I adore the way it looks, but I need advice on what finish(es) can be used to arrest further degradation of the wood and metal. The metal is very thin and there seems to be some dry rot in the wood on one side.
I plan to line the inside with upholstery fabric and use it to store blankets, so it won't see heavy use.
I will be working in a covered outdoor area with high humidity and warm temperatures. I need brush-on product to work around the rotten fabric and get into the deep cracks. I would prefer as low-gloss as possible to retain the aged look. I have seen Penetrol recommended for rusted metal but it seems to dry quite glossy.
Any suggestions?
If you are planning to actually use it without a significant restoration, I think your chances of success are pretty limited. That's just in too bad shape to be used.
But, if you really want to just preserve it, you need to stabilize or remove the dry rotted wood (you can't really get around that. If it's not dealt with it will continue to rot the wood around it.) Penetrating epoxy would be a good choice. But it's going to change the look of the wood. So, try it on some scraps of pine, then in an inconspicuous part of the trunk.
The metal is going to be the hardest part. It will depend on how bad it's actually rusted. If it's rusted through, or to the point that it's too weak, I think you have to replace it. If not, a penetrating oil will be the least "invasive" product that will slow (not stop) the rusting. But, you will need to keep a thin film of oil on it, or oxygen will be able to get to the metal and it will continue to rust.
I have no idea what you could do for the fabric.
Edit:
If it's of any real value (and I have no idea if it would be), you may want to find a conservator to look at it. It wouldn't be cheap, but they can do miracles with what seems like a pile of junk.
Thank you for the thoughtful reply. The metal is fully rusted through in most of the thin edging pieces. I believe that this trunk was subjected to a flood of the building it was in a few years ago, though it was likely in poor condition even before that.
So, for structural stability it seems like it might be a good idea to replace the edge and corner banding and add a rust patina to the new metal to try and match whatever old hardware I can salvage. I'll look into penetrating epoxy for the wood; I'd like to keep all of the original wood.
Thank you for the video! My trunk is in much worse shape and my goals are different, but it's still helpful to see how a professional tackles something similar.
There are things out there to help neutralize rust, treat it, etc. I used to hear some car guys talk about something called por 15 (I think that was it, been a while) they used on automotive rust, a little homework on your part should find something. These old steamer trunks were built to take a little punishment, so with a little care and maintenance it should last many more years.
Pretty much anything you do to restore - clean up - refinish the metal and wood will *greatly* change the look that I think you are attracted to. To preserve it best as possible I would trim off as much of the loose fabric as you can... get 2 cans of Mohawk pre-cat spray lacquer - Dead Flat (not Flat or Matte) and give it like 3 coats on every surface of the outside including the bottom. This will seal up the rust and wood but not change the look too much especially the metal. Use it for the next 10 years and then find another when it falls apart.
https://restorationproduct.com/shop/renaissance-wax/
Reticence wax is the way to go. It was developed by the British Museum to clean and protect its artifacts and is now in use at every major museum in the world. It is inert and won’t degrade metals plastics and wood.
Keep it dry and out of direct sunlight. It’ll be fine for years.
You can try minwax wood hardener on the rotted wood
Thank you, I'll look into that!
Raw linseed oil then boiled linseed oil.
It's a steamer trunk, not a pirate chest. And in bad shape at that.
Yep, all the canvas covering is trashed.
I recently acquired this box and I adore the way it looks, but I need advice on what finish(es) can be used to arrest further degradation of the wood and metal. The metal is very thin and there seems to be some dry rot in the wood on one side. I plan to line the inside with upholstery fabric and use it to store blankets, so it won't see heavy use. I will be working in a covered outdoor area with high humidity and warm temperatures. I need brush-on product to work around the rotten fabric and get into the deep cracks. I would prefer as low-gloss as possible to retain the aged look. I have seen Penetrol recommended for rusted metal but it seems to dry quite glossy. Any suggestions?
If you are planning to actually use it without a significant restoration, I think your chances of success are pretty limited. That's just in too bad shape to be used. But, if you really want to just preserve it, you need to stabilize or remove the dry rotted wood (you can't really get around that. If it's not dealt with it will continue to rot the wood around it.) Penetrating epoxy would be a good choice. But it's going to change the look of the wood. So, try it on some scraps of pine, then in an inconspicuous part of the trunk. The metal is going to be the hardest part. It will depend on how bad it's actually rusted. If it's rusted through, or to the point that it's too weak, I think you have to replace it. If not, a penetrating oil will be the least "invasive" product that will slow (not stop) the rusting. But, you will need to keep a thin film of oil on it, or oxygen will be able to get to the metal and it will continue to rust. I have no idea what you could do for the fabric. Edit: If it's of any real value (and I have no idea if it would be), you may want to find a conservator to look at it. It wouldn't be cheap, but they can do miracles with what seems like a pile of junk.
Thank you for the thoughtful reply. The metal is fully rusted through in most of the thin edging pieces. I believe that this trunk was subjected to a flood of the building it was in a few years ago, though it was likely in poor condition even before that. So, for structural stability it seems like it might be a good idea to replace the edge and corner banding and add a rust patina to the new metal to try and match whatever old hardware I can salvage. I'll look into penetrating epoxy for the wood; I'd like to keep all of the original wood.
https://youtu.be/bSk9CAv6FkY?si=sJdJ317vwzK3Go5R
Thank you for the video! My trunk is in much worse shape and my goals are different, but it's still helpful to see how a professional tackles something similar.
Its rusted and it's going to keep rusting without doing something to the rust.
Yes. That's why I'm asking what I should do to the rust.
There are things out there to help neutralize rust, treat it, etc. I used to hear some car guys talk about something called por 15 (I think that was it, been a while) they used on automotive rust, a little homework on your part should find something. These old steamer trunks were built to take a little punishment, so with a little care and maintenance it should last many more years.
a good chest is always judged by the booty
Pretty much anything you do to restore - clean up - refinish the metal and wood will *greatly* change the look that I think you are attracted to. To preserve it best as possible I would trim off as much of the loose fabric as you can... get 2 cans of Mohawk pre-cat spray lacquer - Dead Flat (not Flat or Matte) and give it like 3 coats on every surface of the outside including the bottom. This will seal up the rust and wood but not change the look too much especially the metal. Use it for the next 10 years and then find another when it falls apart.
https://restorationproduct.com/shop/renaissance-wax/ Reticence wax is the way to go. It was developed by the British Museum to clean and protect its artifacts and is now in use at every major museum in the world. It is inert and won’t degrade metals plastics and wood.
I'd wash with Dawn soap and water or a light mix of TSP and water, and then 3-4 coats of Osmo Polyx. It's a hardwax finisher.
Thank you, I'll look into that also!