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miquelon

Born and raised, left at 20 to go abroad, but still very involved in local affairs, especially historical research. Published as well. So if you have questions, please go ahead. Yes username checks out yadayadayada.


Ok_Instruction_5232

Life on small islands has always fascinated me. Why do locals buy cars there when the islands themselves are so tiny ? Is taking the ferry to Newfoundland with your car something people do often ?


K3rwan

The weather, it sucks a lot. For the cars, during the summer, 1 to 2 crossing, 6 days a week, nearly all booked this summer from Saint-Pierre.


miquelon

t'es un pti qui toi? ;)


maxhinator123

When I visited I thought it was silly, it's a half an hour walk from one side of the town to the other and there's like one road Along the port with same couple cars ripping up and down it all day lol. And that one kid with the two stroke dirt bike ripping around town all day


miquelon

You visited during the summer I believe. Try that same route by -10, winds over 40 knots and a horizontal blizzard.


maxhinator123

Yeah I'd imagine winters are not fun up there. The weather was beautiful when I went


miquelon

We call beautiful weather "un temps de ministre". Local politicians always have to explain the harsh winter to French governmental officials, because they just don't get it. But EVERYTIME a senior official, a minister, a prime-minister of the French president visit the islands, it's always a beautiful sunny day with lovely temperatures, no wind ...


Chicken_Teeth

Like in Deez, life finds a way.


miquelon

Weather. I never had a car, but everybody has one, and a boat as well. The car / truck is a boat moving tool as well, on top on being practical to get around the islands in the harsh weather.


SomeoneNicer

When you say "go abroad" did you move ~50km to Canada, France, or elsewhere? What % of the population would you say stays? Any major industry besides fishing? Seems like a cool place to move if you're somewhere else in NA but like French law and can figure out how to immigrate.


K3rwan

He's in Canada. A small majority of local born are leaving, being replaced by mainland French, what makes us slowly lose our unique french accent. The overall population is slowly declining. Since 92, the fishing industry is barely alive. Tourism is trying to be the next big thing, but it's not there yet. Construction employs a lot, but they don't understand that money is not given just because you asked. The biggest income for the territory is public workers salaries, paid by mainland France.


miquelon

Yes, left when I was in my early 20s, for work mostly. I'm one of the ones who had dual citizenship through family, but immigration to Canada from SPM is not the same as France, it's a little easier for locals. And yes like u/K3rwan says, there is a constant flow of people from mainland France who come for short and long term jobs in the civil services and other government and educational purposes. Relations between locals and mainlanders are complexe, always have been, a bit of : "je t'aime, moi non plus".


tourdelmundo

By mainlanders do you mean people from Newfoundland? Or from Metropolitan France?


miquelon

No from France. Local name for French Mainlanders, mostly pejorative, is 'mayou' / 'maillou'.


miquelon

You can see Canada from SPM on a clear day. Literally. [https://www.reddit.com/r/Borderporn/comments/q9lra5/i\_took\_a\_picture\_of\_canada\_from\_france\_maritime/](https://www.reddit.com/r/Borderporn/comments/q9lra5/i_took_a_picture_of_canada_from_france_maritime/)


SaccharineDaydreams

How would you describe the local accent?


miquelon

Clear normand influence. Quickly spoken, similar to the accent in Avranches, Coutances, Granville.


VigilMuck

Which keyboard is typically used there, QWERTY (like in Quebec) or AZERTY (like in France)?


miquelon

AZERTY


Johnny-Dogshit

I've been curious about something dumb and specific. Cigarettes, do stores stock actual from-france cigarettes there, or are they stuck somehow with Canadian stuff? Curious about other random consumables too, your junk food options etc. Like what's on the shelves over there? I don't know why these elements are such a focus for me, but they are. Already looked at the liquor. Lot of french wines and spirits, and apparently a local brewery I guess which seems cool. I'm sure there's detail I'm not getting though. How're the eateries?


miquelon

Here are a few tidbits for your general enjoyment and education on the islands. **WHAT ITS LIKE BEING FROM THERE** - Imagine being from there and having to explain to people where you're from, from the US Border agent who wonders where were you born since your birthplace is listed in code as "SPM", to the French from France guy asking you if you got used to the French climate yet because overseas must mean Carribean or South Pacific. Or the islander who gets his military papers to show up next week, with a complimentary train ticket. **SETTLED EARLY BY FRANCE** - French since the early 1600s, settled seasonally by the French, Basque and Irish from the early 1520s. Mentioned by Cartier in 1536. Part of the French colony of Plaisance (newfoundland) until Utrecht 1713. Returned in 1763. Full deportation of population in 1778 for France's support of new USA Returned 1783 Full deportation of population 1793-1794 because of French revolution, prison camps in Halifax, deportation to UK and France. Returned 1814, not settled. Full settlement return in 1816, French ever since. **GUILLOTINE - WE TRIED IT** - One was used on my native French island (check my username), about 800 miles from Boston MA, near Newfoundland, in the late 19th century. It was a disaster. The colonial government wanted to make an example of a murderer, one Néel, and since the official "maître des grandes oeuvres" wasn't going to leave Paris for an overseas territory, they asked a local simpleton to accept the deed. The machine came up from Martinique, it was old and shoddy, but worked the day before on a sheep. The next day, in front of the entire town, the machine only did half the work, and had to be finished with a fish knife. The whole town turned against the executioner, he eventually had to leave the islands as well as nobody would take his blood money. Here is an english language news item about an event that happened before this particular Néel execution, and it gives you an idea of the times [https://grandcolombier.com/2014/12/29/1887-affaire-zuzuaregui-new-york-sun/](https://grandcolombier.com/2014/12/29/1887-affaire-zuzuaregui-new-york-sun/) **PROHIBITION** - We made a killing, exporting booze to the USA, island was covered in warehouses. We made so much money, we lent some to the French Government. Then it all stopped. **SHIPWRECKS** - Over 600 are known, there's a National Geographic article from 1967 with an amazing map. [https://mapsontheweb.zoom-maps.com/post/179893599435/shipwrecks-around-saint-pierre-and-miquelon](https://mapsontheweb.zoom-maps.com/post/179893599435/shipwrecks-around-saint-pierre-and-miquelon) **WWII KERFUFFLE** - Yes we were part of Vichy France up to December 1941. Freed by De Gaulle, pissed off Roosevelt who was trying to manage Vichy and Pétain. Roosevelt was so upset he tried to kick out De Gaulle and restore Vichy. Churchill saved the day and let De Gaulle keep the islands as part of Free France. **ETHNIC MAKEUP** - Mostly Breton (celtic), Normand, Basque (look it up if you don't know what that is), some Irish from Newfoundland (mostly women during the depression era in NL) and some old Acadian stock (deported families). **EUROPE OR NOT ?** We're not a departement, we're a semi autonomous territory. Our taxes remain on the islands, we print our own stamps, not all french laws automatically apply etc etc. Yes we're Eu citizens but not a Shengen area. **SPOKEN FRENCH (LIKE FRANCE NOT QC)** - European French, with strong influences from Normand, Northern France. Read : A Metropolitan French Isolate in North America: the French language in Saint-Pierre-et-Miquelon [https://repository.lsu.edu/tete\_a\_tete/vol2/iss1/5/](https://repository.lsu.edu/tete_a_tete/vol2/iss1/5/) **POSTAL CODE - 97500** - I live in Canada. Sending something home is a nightmare. If I use the France postal code (97500) mail ends up being burnt in a dump in Medford Oregon. So I write "via Montreal Transit) as they know what to do, but the Canada post agents act super dumb. "Is this a military base?" **LOCAL AIRLINE - AIR ST PIERRE** - It exists, look it up. You might see the island's ATR-42 if you go through Montreal, Halifax of St John's Airport.


Thamesx2

Why was it seperated from Plaisance and was there ever an effort to merge them back together?


miquelon

The Placentia colony was given to UK with Newfoundland after Utrecht in 1713. It remained UK ever since, except SPM was granted to France for fishing rights in 1763 and following treaties.


miquelon

Also the Placentia colony was a bit of a colonial disaster. One governor was killed. It was bleak, tensions with French colonial and Basque fishermen was common. Raids by the British didn't help either, little was done to fortify or defend the place. Louisbourg in Cape Breton took over after Utrecht as the French base for the fishery.


StellarCracker

Got so many questions but mainly 2. with all those deportations and resettlings u talked abt, does that mean most of the islands population has only been there since that last resetllement in 1816(Which is still a long time ofc mind you) or there are some that can trace their roots back earlier? And the biggest thing I've always wondered is why did Britain give it back to France, especially as u say in 1814 after the Napoleonic wars? was it just because they were so small?


miquelon

True, But in 1816, some of the families that returned on various ships like the Salamandre were previous inhabitants that had been deported in 1794 and 1778, including mine who had sought refuge from Acadian deportation of 1755. No islander can claim presence before than 1763.


StellarCracker

Ok very cool that makes sense so ppl like ur family were the ones who were able to escape deportation


miquelon

France always negotiated for an access to the Grand Banks. The fishery was more important to the kingdom of France than the New France colonies as it was a major food source for centuries. Though returned on paper in 1814, it was not granted and established until 1816 as a goodwill gesture towards Louis XVIII, favored by the British as a more stable and amenable form of government for France in Britain's eyes.


StellarCracker

Right I forgot that he was in power then yeah


miquelon

Location, location, location as well. Its right at the top of the Grand Banks of Newfoundland, this is a massive fishing plateau. Other islands around Newfoundland were considered but none fit the bill quite like St Pierre (harbour, free of ice + location).


StellarCracker

Also just curious if it's pretty flat scenery wise or not necessarily?


miquelon

It's very hilly, very old rock, like the south coast of Newfoundland. Some flat scenery in the dunes.


laywandsigh

Thank you for the Q&A in advance! I've always been interested in the SPM. 1. I understand there's no substantial medical facility on the SPM. Advanced medical treatments are done in Canada via an agreement. Are most births given in Canada? If so, since Canada has a jus soli based citizenship, does it mean most SPM-ers actually have dual French and Canadian citizenship? 2. Regarding the postal code, what do you mean by "via Montreal Transit"? Wouldn't you send whatever normally, but to "Address, SPM, France 97500"?


miquelon

Most births in St Pierre, complicated ones happen in Canada sometimes. When some are born in Canada, yes they end up being dual citizens. Was a nightmare when ESTA starting being implemented. Postal code : OH NO - If you write France, it would go to France, then be sent back to SPM From France, basically a huge five week loop.


laywandsigh

1. Re: birth. Interesting! What's the ratio of population you would say have Canadian citizenship? 2. Re: postal. Oh? Then what would you write? "Address, SPM 97500" then on a new line " via Montreal Transit"? Montreal sorting facility would then know what to do? 3. What's the ratio of the younger demographic that would leave for mainland France or Canada? And which one more likely? 4. What's the most economical way to get to SPM? The flights for foreigners aren't exactly the cheapest and getting to Fortune NL seems like a pain... I want to visit SPM, but the cash required seems hard to justify. Thanks again for this super informative Q&A!


miquelon

1. Maybe 10%, but I'm just guessing. 2. No the best is to write Address, SPM F97500, via Montréal Transit (see what I did there to make the postal code non-USA?) 3. 90 % to France, 10 % to Canada. 4. Ferry from Fortune is your best bet, to save time however, take Air St Pierre from St Jawn's.


LateralEntry

Does anyone ever explore the shipwrecks through scuba diving or submarines?


miquelon

Yes, there's a diving club that does that. As for submarines, not really, but there was an effort to find the Ravenel using very advanced technology, a fishing trawler that was lost in 1967, a huge tragedy for the islands. Unfortunately, it has still not been found.


LouQuacious

Sounds super chill and oddly it's geologically part of Appalachian Mountains. [https://www.reddit.com/r/HighsoftheWorld/comments/mmsmvq/saintpierreetmiquelon\_morne\_de\_la\_grande\_montagne/](https://www.reddit.com/r/HighsoftheWorld/comments/mmsmvq/saintpierreetmiquelon_morne_de_la_grande_montagne/)


miquelon

True, a real mix of pre-cambrian sedimentary with trilobites, igneous rhyolite and some metamorphic.


Organic_Chemist9678

Like Newfie only with croissants.


[deleted]

Euros and Renaults


K3rwan

Like French with Bologna


miquelon

Newfie steak :)


K3rwan

Le diner du lundi !


buzzkiller2u

Hold on there. You can get croissants at Costco!


miquelon

Yeah industrial croissants are nothing compared to the local flaky delicacies we call croissants. You have no idea, no really, you don't.


buzzkiller2u

Yes, yes, I do. And yes; of course, Costco croissants are inferior.


musical_shares

One of my elementary school French teachers was from Miquelon and we all ended up with accents that no one can quite place. Not Acadian, not Quebecois, not standard Parisian but an absurd mélange of all of the above. Acadians comment that I sound French, quebeckers make comments about sounding mildly gaspésie, and in Paris everyone smiles cutely.


K3rwan

You perfectly described it.


miquelon

Yes Miquelon has its own accent, slightly different than St Pierre. Miquelon has a much stronger Acadian base to it historically. Actually the most of the Magdalen islands were settled by catholic acadians from Miquelon who fled the French revolution : they believed the king was of divine right, therefore a Republic was antithetic to their beliefs.


musical_shares

Several branches of my family became Magdelinots on Allright Island and Briand Island when they fled Miquelon, originally descending from Port Royal and then Grand Pre during the deportation. My accent never stood a chance, truth be told.


miquelon

My GG-grandfather moved from Miquelon to the Magdalen islands. He was listed in the census records as "Lastname the frenchman" seperate from other identical "Lastnames".


musical_shares

There was also a significant exchange of families between Miquelon and Chéticamp that I tracked in my family tree. In the 1880s, another significant contingent of Magdelinots landed and settled around Cape North, as well. My kids were the first generation of that line of my family not to be born on an island since the deportation in 1755.


traxxes

They use the € and drive Peugeots, Renaults and Citroëns shipped over from the mainland, just like almost all other French overseas territory. This is a good semi recent [CTV documentary focused on it](https://youtu.be/p2gMCuYY4rk?feature=shared)


miquelon

We used to use French African Francs until 1974, French Francs until the Euro came in. The daily US and CAD dollar rates are part of the Noon Hour News on the radio.


miquelon

Only some of the cars are europeans. Most locals drive American cars.


K3rwan

For cars, it's around 60% NA cars, 40% EU cars.


miquelon

Island once had the longest operated Ford Dealership in the world, since the Model-T.


miquelon

No Teslas yet?


K3rwan

Just visiting once, twice a year.


RatedRSouperstarr

This is the only country that's ever defeated me on Tradle, couldnt believe this was really a place


miquelon

Wasn't me !


DJDeadParrot

I’m curious about what/how media is consumed there, and how it has historically been consumed. That is, newspapers, tv/radio, etc, and how it reached there pre-internet.


K3rwan

Before 2010, for TV, it was mostly Canadian and US channels, with a few French ones. After that, they added a lot more French Channel. I personally grew up with the same shows as Québec youth of my age.


miquelon

True. From the 70s to 1990 it was UHF with 1/2 Newfoundland channels (CBNT) in NTSC format and the local French Controlled TV Station in SECAM K'. From the 90s to the 2010s, it was mostly Cable TV via satellite from Canada (QC, maritimes and USA) and a local TV station now in PAL format. From the 2010s, it's been all of France's public TV in digital format. (Yeah I'm older)


miquelon

Wrote about it here : [https://repository.lsu.edu/tete\_a\_tete/vol2/iss1/5/](https://repository.lsu.edu/tete_a_tete/vol2/iss1/5/) Full access to Public French TV content. Local TV station (opened by De Gaulle in 1967), Local radio stations.


lolikroli

r/howislivingthere


Alabaster_Rims

Never knew this place existed and I consider myself decently well versed from a map/geography standpoint. At least I used to be.


miquelon

It's ok, most French citizens have never heard of us either. Or when they do, they assume we're in the Caribbean


Averagecrabenjoyer69

French and quaint I imagine, probably a paradise for seafood lovers.


miquelon

Halibut with garlic is a local favourite. But cod tongues and cheeks are a local delicacy.


miquelon

Did I mention Lobster, every local has their own personal lobster trap. In fact we're France's highest lobster allergy per capita, cause, lobster.


jenestasriano

Est-ce que tu connais une bonne émission ou un bon YouTubeur que je peux regarder pour entendre l’accent de SPM? Est-ce qu’il y avait des produits que vous deviez acheter au Canada? Est-ce que vous pouvez utiliser Amazon.fr?


miquelon

* Pour l'accent, voici quelques exemples [https://youtu.be/2CA1AjcbH\_8?si=jdaKDLa01Yp96Ufb&t=44](https://youtu.be/2CA1AjcbH_8?si=jdaKDLa01Yp96Ufb&t=44) * Un accent plus prononcé d'un capitaine : [https://la1ere.francetvinfo.fr/saintpierremiquelon/une-retraite-bien-meritee-pour-le-capitaine-karl-beauperthuis-1493222.html](https://la1ere.francetvinfo.fr/saintpierremiquelon/une-retraite-bien-meritee-pour-le-capitaine-karl-beauperthuis-1493222.html) * Un exemple d'accent chez les plus vieux [https://youtu.be/2CA1AjcbH\_8?si=BmvsNkXt4Rxh8FC3&t=151](https://youtu.be/2CA1AjcbH_8?si=BmvsNkXt4Rxh8FC3&t=151) * Exemple d'accent basque chez un ancien (années 50) [https://youtu.be/XwWLSUp2zQs?si=aTIXBGJDeUU8uKQk&t=539](https://youtu.be/XwWLSUp2zQs?si=aTIXBGJDeUU8uKQk&t=539) * Un autre ancien St Pierrais, 1969 [https://youtu.be/auQqL6jS7Bc?si=MMoTZp03RPWjDgPK&t=190](https://youtu.be/auQqL6jS7Bc?si=MMoTZp03RPWjDgPK&t=190)


jenestasriano

Merci beaucoup pour ton commentaire informatif!! 😍


K3rwan

"Deviez acheter" non, voulez acheter, oui. Nous avons beaucoup de produit du Canada et de France, mais pas tous. Avant la crise sanitaire, c'était avantageux d'aller sur Marystown à Terre-Neuve pour acheter moins chère, plus vraiment maintenant, sauf pour quelque chose de spécifique. [Amaon.fr](http://Amaon.fr) ne livre pas ici. Les gens commandent sur [Amazon.ca](http://Amazon.ca) (paye les taxes canadienne), et font livrer à l'adresse canadienne de nos transporteur de fret bateaux (Dartmouth/Fortune), ou avion (Halifax/St John's).


jenestasriano

Très intéressant, merci! :)


CurlingTrousers

Islandy. Breezy, overcast and a little pretentious.


miquelon

Why would you say pretentious? It's obvious you're not from there. Is that some sort of jibe against the French in general ? We're actually quite well known for our incredible hospitality and just down to earth attitude.


CurlingTrousers

Take it more seriously, Mon ami.


sevenfourtime

And most likely, fishy.


miquelon

Not so much since most of the fishing activity was shut down in the mid-1990s by Canada.


miquelon

Not sure why this is being downvoted, it's a fact, they manage the banks of Newfoundland, so they determine the fishing quotas. Also after decades of overfishing, by every nation possible (looking at you Spain, Portugal, Soviet Union, Korea), the stocks were depleted.


manwiththewood

Lotta Great Whites I do believe. Check the tracker.


arrbez

C’est la vie


StellarCracker

Dude I’ve been wondering g this for so long


foersom

St. Pierre and Miquelon: The French Faroe islands (DA: Færøerne). ;-)


miquelon

Yes very similar in many ways.


BandicootLegal8156

I saw this place mentioned on No Reservations and more I want to travel there. Can I drive to Newfoundland (from the USA) and take a ferry over? What is there to do on SP/Miquelon? It shows kayaking on their site. Are there other activities that can be done on the islands? Also, how is the food?


miquelon

Yes pretty much, I'll let the tourism people sell you on the place ! [https://www.spm-tourisme.fr/](https://www.spm-tourisme.fr/)


Sonder1879

Wait, it's not a part of Canada?


miquelon

Excuuuuuuse me? We were settled wayyy before that little experiment called Canada. French since the early 1600s, and despite three deportations and a 50 year British settlement, we were on the map wayyyy before the Upper and Lower Canada's decided to become a somewhat independent country with a British King.


K3rwan

It was French, before Canada was Canada.


FoldAdventurous2022

Is there any current archeological research happening on the islands? What about museums? And how high does schooling go?


miquelon

Yes. Native archeology in various points around islands and 17th-18th century French colonial archeology in harbour area. In association with Memorial University in Newfoundland and French archeology teams.


miquelon

Several museums. * State museum and archives (they have the guillotine on exhibit) [https://www.arche-musee-et-archives.net/](https://www.arche-musee-et-archives.net/) * Private museum (Heritage) [https://musee-heritage.fr/](https://musee-heritage.fr/) * Ile aux Marins museum [https://www.spm-tourisme.fr/profiter/musees/musee-archipelitude-lile-aux-marins/](https://www.spm-tourisme.fr/profiter/musees/musee-archipelitude-lile-aux-marins/) * Miquelon Museum [https://www.25km-de-miquelon.net/saint-pierre-et-miquelon/le-musee-de-miquelon/](https://www.25km-de-miquelon.net/saint-pierre-et-miquelon/le-musee-de-miquelon/)


miquelon

School goes to the French baccalauréat. French education system down the T. After High school, you get a bursary to continue in France, some in Canada.


foersom

Are there EVs on the islands? What plug type is used? Type-2 (EU / Mennekes) or type-1 J1772?


tarkinn

ask here r/howislivingthere