Honestly, just watch a couple more videos by Hipyo. His videos are aimed at the beginner in the aftermarket custom keyboard hobby and he does give good overall impressions of keyboards in that $100-ish range segment. Pretty sure he's reviewed the Rainy 75 and Chilkey ND75 - check out those two keyboards first and see if they are available/instock and consider just picking up one of those.
EDIT: just seen you've said you need a numpad so ignore the two recommendations above.
Monsgeek M5 might be a good option compared to the Q6 in my eyes. For real thockiness, you want thicker keycaps, something in SA profile would be thocky almost regardless of what switches you put them on.
Factors that add to 'thock':
- non-metal plates (polycarbonate, carbon fiber, pom, etc.)
- high profile keycaps like ASA, KAT, SA
- gasket mounting system (not an optional factor when buying specific board, changes depending on board)
- force break mod (reduces metal-to-metal contact for less sharp, bright, pinging sound)
- tape mod (dampening sound vibration through pcb; recommend using masking tape since it neither conductive nor too adhesive that it'll rip diodes and such out when u pull the tape out)
- plate/case foams are optional because imo they don't really add to 'thock', but more so just the tone of the sound; too much of these foams could cause your 'thock' to sound like a dull thud with no tone to it
- proper lubrication of switches and stabs (i say proper because too much lube will also make your switches sound dull when fully pressed)
Honestly, just watch a couple more videos by Hipyo. His videos are aimed at the beginner in the aftermarket custom keyboard hobby and he does give good overall impressions of keyboards in that $100-ish range segment. Pretty sure he's reviewed the Rainy 75 and Chilkey ND75 - check out those two keyboards first and see if they are available/instock and consider just picking up one of those. EDIT: just seen you've said you need a numpad so ignore the two recommendations above. Monsgeek M5 might be a good option compared to the Q6 in my eyes. For real thockiness, you want thicker keycaps, something in SA profile would be thocky almost regardless of what switches you put them on.
btw, if you don't find a good full size board, you can get a smaller board and a separate numpad
Factors that add to 'thock': - non-metal plates (polycarbonate, carbon fiber, pom, etc.) - high profile keycaps like ASA, KAT, SA - gasket mounting system (not an optional factor when buying specific board, changes depending on board) - force break mod (reduces metal-to-metal contact for less sharp, bright, pinging sound) - tape mod (dampening sound vibration through pcb; recommend using masking tape since it neither conductive nor too adhesive that it'll rip diodes and such out when u pull the tape out) - plate/case foams are optional because imo they don't really add to 'thock', but more so just the tone of the sound; too much of these foams could cause your 'thock' to sound like a dull thud with no tone to it - proper lubrication of switches and stabs (i say proper because too much lube will also make your switches sound dull when fully pressed)
Please explain thock.
Thock is deaper sound profile, clack is higher
I’ll accept deeper (as in more of a lower frequency I hope?). You’d be surprised how many don’t agree with this.
I recently picked up a KBDFans Odin. Not cheap, but very nice and has a numpad.
Keychron Q6 Max is another nice option.