That is a great glue, i will also recommend BSI instacure for a cyanoacrelate glue. Also a high quality paintbrush ( Windsor Newton, citadel, Michelangelo) is worth its weight in gold
Great brushes are amazing but you don’t need one of the expensive name-brand ones if you have a local art supply store. Blick especially has their own line of red sable brushes (Masterstroke, I think) that are only a teeny bit below the top-tier W&N brushes for a fraction of the price. My #2 round brush is still my daily driver almost three years later, and its listed price is $8 (but I bundled it with four other excellent brushes for $20 total). And if you go in-store, you also get the benefit of picking the brushes with the best points!
Nylon or Taklon are good for introducing the hobby, but your first "upgrade" should be some real sable brushes like the above suggest. If you take care of them, they'll be the last brushes you ever have to buy.
Use the contacta glue (revell one) for glueing together big parts tried its pretty good but the only problem is that it gets stuck in the applicator needle thingy, jam a needle in it if it gets stuck jam another one. For tamiya extra thin yeah its great, Use it for glueing tiny parts, but the main reason to buy it is that its great at removing seam lines (like attaching to big parts and there's a gap)
Which you can sand it down to completely remove the gap
Yeah. This all the way. It's nice to have multiple types of glue for different applications. Contacta is great for gluing large things together when you need time to manipulate parts like warship hulls.
Pro tip - Tamiya extra thin is the same as Tamiya airbrush cleaner except the AB cleaner is 10% of the price. Just fill up your glue pot with a large stock of cleaner from time to time.
It's not garbage. It's pretty handy if you know when to use it and know the formula. It's good to have it, because it dries slower than Tamiya cement so you can manipulate parts before it dries, which comes handy in gluing tracks.
Also correct me if I'm wrong, but it's semi resin, so you can use it to glue painted parts and if you're skilled enough, you can use it to glue canopy without fogging it.
Not sure what you mean by "semi resin"? It's still a methyl acetate based glue like Extra Thin and others so will destroy paint when bonding (as it melts the plastic) and fog clear parts if you use too much.
If you're using that tape for masking, don't. Get some Tamiya or other model masking tape (washi or similar yellow tape). Normal masking tape is too thick amd will also peel any paint off.
As others said, Tamiya Extra glue is less messy and way better than what you have, but the Contacta will do for now.
Proper nippers, the scissors won't cut plastic but are good for cutting out decals.
Take your time, have fun and watch plenty of YT videos.
Ow and also just do what you like and have fun, if I am mid project and i just don't feel it anymore and i stop having fun I just put it in a box an put it aside, i have tried to finish a model while not having fun and it sucks, it was not a very nice end product and i threw it away because i even hated to look at it.
In terms of supplies, you need a box of toothpicks.
In terms of technique, when you're painting wheels, you can use a binder clip to hold toothpicks, which you can use to hold wheels while you paint them.
Get yourself plenty of blades for your scalpel. Also make sure you have a suitable container to dispose of dull blades. Always dispose of them in a sturdy plastic container. Seal it up tight when it is full and you are getting rid of it. Always be safe when disposing of sharp things and chemicals.
I personally would get some type of nipper really anything would be better than nail scissor but they are better than nothing. Also tamya ultra thin cement is so much better than revell glue. Also the glue vapors are not that big deal I never wear any protection from them and just open the window if I will be using the glue for a long time. Paint vapors can be really bad tho if you use laquer or alcohol based paints and spray cans are really bad for you and I really recomend a rebreather for those. Water based paints are totally fine and you dont need any protection from them unless you are airbrushing.
One thing I would get is sand papers of diffrent high grits and a pin vise with some small drill bits for drilling gun barrels and other details.
Thanks for the reply man, I’m definitely gonna get some of the Tamiya thin cement since that’s what everyone’s been telling me. I’ve looked at a couple of cheap respirators I might buy a respirator as-well just to be on the safe side.
You can get a respirator and it will probably come in handy in the future but the amount of fumes is very little especially with tamya extra thin since you use it so little and should be closing the cap eveytime you are not applying glue.
Even being fast it's a weak bond, doesn't matter if you're knocking together a hundred soldiers off of pure muscle memory it's far better to use the regular strength glue.
Patience. When I started out as a kid I wanted to finish off models as quick as I could because I was so excited to see the finished product. This would cause so many mistakes and sloppy work. Now I’ve grown old(er) I’ve learnt to take my time. If it takes months to get to the finished product then so be it.
They’re files, good at removing plastic but leave a very rough finish. Should look into getting some actual sanding sticks, preferably 400 and 800 grit for starting off with
Get wet&dry sandpaper, 400, 800, 1200 and 2000 grit at a hardware store, its like 1.5€/sheet and 1 sheet lasts quite a while. Also dont bother with that mask, it wont filter out solvents.
None, just open a window. Also I would suggest to buy Tamiya Ultra Thin cement, because the one from Revell really is quite thick. But it’s ok to start and practice.
Use a fan and an open window to direct airflow out of the room, that’ll suffice for glue fumes, but if you can’t stand the smell then something by 3m will do
As far as tips goes: Take your time, it's not a race and any mistakes you do make can probably be fixed. Buy some cheap kits, or even kits others have built that are broken or something and practice new skills on those. I build tons of Gunpla and I will buy somebody's built kits that they messed up or don't want and use those as practice pieces.
Clear space in a cupboard/buy a shed for the inevitable stash of kits - there's a point at which collecting them becomes the main focus of the hobby. Either that or just purchase them as you build.
Start off and build. You will notice what's missing. It's more fun to expand on your own experience. You can build great with these tools and bad with three times as much. Have a go at it!
You can try some cheap stainless steel dentist picks/tools, they work great for applying tiny amounts of anything you need to put on a model, are neat for scraping areas, prying things open, or any other function a dentist does to dental jobs that can also be applied to models and it's smaller pieces.
And take your time with models, no need to rush/speed things just enjoy the experience.
I see you’re brushpainting, get a wide flat tipped brush for painting large flat areas on the tank. Paint in crisscross pattern and wait for each layer to dry first.
That mask isn’t gonna cut if if you’re trying to avoid paint fumes of any type. You’ll need a real respirator such as the 3m ones that have an n95 layer along with activated charcoal
>#New to Model making?
>
>#Check the [FAQ/Wiki](http://www.reddit.com/r/modelmakers/wiki/index) for some useful tips and tricks!
>
>There are entire sections on kits to buy, tools/consumables, painting in general, weathering specifically and links to online tutorials.
A pack of sewing needles. Useful for all sorts of things - e.g. replacing pitot tubes with something shiny and not likely to break.
Also take one and file the eye end down to a point half way down the eye so you end up with a two pronged little fork. Stick the sharp end in something to act as a handle (Bit of unwanted sprue is good). Use this as a CA glue applicator. It will get clogged up with dry CA glue after a bit but hold it in a cigarette lighter flame for a few seconds and the dry glue will burn off. Very useful for very small dabs of glue - especially for attaching tiny parts or small photoetch.
Get some sandpaper or sanding sticks in multiple grits. Any mistake you make can be erased. It'll make painting and modelling much more fun when undoing mistakes is easy.
A couple things:
1. A little tip if you need to make small holes for things like pylons for weapons and you don’t want to buy a hand drill is to get a safety pin and use a lighter to make the pin hot enough to melt the holes. It’s not perfect and takes a bit of cleanup as well, but has kept me happy for a while now.
2. If you use Mr Color paints don’t try and use water or any airbrush cleaner on it even to clean your airbrush. I found out the hard way that except mr hobby thinner itself anything I’ve used to try and clean out my airbrush will cause the paint to coagulate and clog up my airbrush. This may be because they are actually a different type of paint than I thought they were but there you go. Now you don’t have to make the same mistake as I do.
(Edit: for the lighter thing, don’t heat it for too long or else it will make the whole pin super hot very fast and burn you. So little is more)
Sprue cutters have already been mentioned but I’d like to suggest some really quality, reasonably priced ones I discovered years ago called CHP Micro Nippers. Tamiya, Mr. Hobby and Xuron are the top of the line nippers around but they’re usually around $40. The CHP TR-20 nipper is around $10 and very close in actual performance. And while the cut won’t be quite as flush as those pricier more expensive ones, I actually do prefer the larger handles and feel they offer better grip and control.
I would also suggest Micro-Sol and Micro-Set t make application a breeze.
Airbrush, if you want to get a feel before you buy a good one you can buy a $20 one and use some aerosol cans instead of a compressor to practice, if you like it then you can cough up the money for a good brush and compressor
https://airbrushinsider.com/does-airbrush-require-compressor/
I think I got my cheap one for about $120 on Amazon, the airbrush was ok and the compressor didn’t have a tank so the pressure would fluctuate a bit between when you started painting and when it kicked on.
I suggested an airbrush and got a -3 downvote score, while the post above mine also suggested an airbrush and has a +4 upvote score lol only on reddit. Hair paint brushes are great for detailing, nobody denies that. For those things that require pinpoint detail painting they are an absolute essential, and you're going to want a wide variety of shapes and sizes. Some you're going to want for detail, some you're going to need for weathering. But I don't care, I'll die on this hill- an airbrush is the single best investment you'll make in this hobby. I don't give a rat's ass if you're a newbie or not, it's the tool that eliminates tedium, frustration and the brush painted amateur look. They aren't terribly expensive either, a decent brush/compressor set on Amazon will set you back less than $200 usd. They're not hard to get the hang of, and add so much more satisfaction to your builds. So yeah, get an airbrush. Hell, get two.
Got you back to zero my friend, airbrush was a game changer for me. I thinned out my paint when I first started because I didn't want to paint over my details and as much as I tried, it still would happen. Getting an airbrush, and a poorly as I learned with it, has made a thousand times better paint job over brush on most applications.
I'm sorry you got downvotes for simple feedback, I get not everyone will invest in it up front, but it does make a huge difference once you get more acclimated with the hobby.
Amazon right now has the GSI Procon PS-289 airbrush for just over $76, a steal for a normally $100 brush that can comfortably compete in the $200 brush range.
As for compressors, get one that has a tank if you can if you don’t want to hear it turn on everything you spray something.
I don't see a nipper on the picture, even a cheap sidecutter would be better than the scissors, nail clipper pliers can also work, but a [flush cutter](https://www.amazon.com/HongWay-Cutters-Electronic-Jewelry-Cutting/dp/B09VBYLGR4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=flush+cutters&qid=1667046050&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0Ljk4IiwicXNhIjoiNC40NiIsInFzcCI6IjQuMjQifQ%3D%3D&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1) is really helpful
I bought [this one](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001736644112.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.41.74eda12cf2hBN4&algo_pvid=cf0ba1a0-f8b3-4da7-92e9-ba2bc23be585&algo_exp_id=cf0ba1a0-f8b3-4da7-92e9-ba2bc23be585-20&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000017390972954%22%7D&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21DKK%2167.91%2154.31%21%21%21%21%21%40211bda9b16670461208723047d076d%2112000017390972954%21sea&curPageLogUid=sBGSBbUS5fVI), really good and cheap
A small pack of automotive sandpaper.
Or look in the supermarket in the nail polish department, lots of [cheap really good sanding sticks](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004229872692.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.55.47a96394hrEBY7&algo_pvid=36b97efc-cc34-46e7-9cb5-1eda2c1a1917&algo_exp_id=36b97efc-cc34-46e7-9cb5-1eda2c1a1917-27&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000028458689503%22%7D&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21DKK%2151.85%2136.31%21%21%21%21%21%402102188b16670462038996381d0733%2112000028458689503%21sea&curPageLogUid=itZMkens7Akq), both 60-180 grit for removing plastic, and polish sticks 3000 and above to make the plastic shine if needed.
Also larger brushes for cleaning dust and dry brushing.
Womens make up departments are a treasure trove for model builders
You can use Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner as glue, almost the same formula as the Extra Thin. Much cheaper in the long run. Use a 000 brush as applicator.
I have found a real surgical scalpel and blades are much cheaper and better than hobby knives. 10$ for the handle and 18$ for a hundred #11 blades, where I live that is cheaper by a lot. I got the blades from a dentist supplier.
A piece of glass to cut the tape on is a cheap addition and helpful.
Some much smaller brushes than the collection on the picture for detail work.
I cant tell you any tip, but i can tell you that if you continue making models: dont, DONT buy the 1:72 Marder III H, it maybe looks good, but hard to do af, there are a thousand and one details that, if you don't do them, it won't look good
Wash the sprues in soap and water. Some older plastic kits may have mold release on them that can cause headaches when painting.
Get some sprue cutters. Spend the extra time now dealing with nubs and mold lines or they will haunt you for the rest of your existence. Look up some Gundam building videos. Those guys are masters at dealing with mold lines and nubs.
Good superglue is good. I like BSI. The super thin stuff is to be feared and respected. Glue micro tips are also useful. You can buy like 200 of them for $10 on Amazon. Adam Savage did a video on superglue over on YouTube.
Change your xacto blade frequently. A dull knife is more dangerous than a sharp one. New blades are cheap, stitches are expensive.
Get some cheap nail files at the dollar store.
Tamiya gap filling putty can be useful. Green stuff is also useful.
Take your time, dry fit, sand flush, get rid of seams. Kits don't need to be finished in a few nights and you don't have to spend 5 hours a day on them. I have a USS Hughes that is highly detailed due to photo etch and I have to walk away for a few weeks before working on it again. Its okay, don't burn yourself out trying to be an expert at this hobby on day one.
There's a lot of good advice here but honestly, just do the thing. You'll learn what you need for future projects once you're done. It's all a big learning experience.
Different mix types of
* Superglue, thick medium, thin, foam safe.
* Plastic glue, glass bottle type. Tamiya Extra Thin Cement * 40ml - Plastic Glue - two bottles
* One of add plastic sprue to to make sprue goo. Very useful.
* Model drill Hand one
* Different grit nail sanding sticks.
* Cheap thin paint brushes.
* Cocktail sticks and BBQ sticks
* Kids playdoe
* Bluetack
* Wine corks
* 1 mm paperclips metal
* Mini bulldog clips
* Stanley Knife
* Snap blade knifes
* Razor blades old style blades
* Scalpel and scalpel blades various types.
* Modeling knife, different colours, and blades
* First aid kit
* Good face mask
**No.1**: A boxcutter with a narrow blade (8-9 mm or so) > hobby knife. Because:
1. It's blade is straight, not angled - which is much much much more useful.
2. You can control blade length. 1/3 of the time I'm using only 3-4 mm on the tip of the blade for cleaning mold joints. Guess how many cuts on my fingers I've got in 1.5 years of using it? None.
And yes, I own different knifes: both with a regular 6 mm blade (and it's terrible) and a smaller 4 mm one like Suyata makes (has some actual uses, but more niche than a boxcutter).
**No.2**: Tamiya Extra Thin is useful, but a bit overrated and doesn't do well as "the only cement you'd need". It melts plastic fast and evaporates, but then it takes ages for plastic to dry properly afterwards which makes using it for small pieces a nightmare. For that I always keep a bottle of thick cement.
**No.3**: Reverse tweezers are incredibly useful. Nuff said.
**No.4**: Elastic masking tape (PVC-like) > paper masking tape (regular painter's tape). Because paper doesn't do well with uneven surfaces, and sides of a paper tape aren't particularly flat either.
**No.5**: Proper sidecutters are a must if you're building more than a single model. Trust me, I've used nail scissors for half a year, and even a $4 sidecutters are miles better. But get a specialized ones, regular sidecutters for electrics won't do.
**No.6**: Flat / angled brushes > round brushes. Round brushes work well only in small sizes for painting tiny details. For anything else use a flat brush, and angled brush also allows you to use a pointy bit as well.
**No.7**: Files are ok for a very rough result, but sandpaper is much better. I've got 320/600/800/1000 A4 sheets for <$1 each - and still have over a half of the size.
Get a pair of Xeron(?) sprue nippers. Hold and fold tool for photo etched parts. I also turn the springs around in my clothes pins so the handle part is the pinchy part (because it works better in certain cases). That’s just a few.
Tamiya extra thin is good, as are it’s competitors (Ammo Extra Thin and Mr Cement S come to mind) so use whatever you can get hold of.
My number 1 bit of advice though: As far as painting goes, try to do several thin coats rather than painting all at once. Once your paints are thinned, make sure your brush isn’t overloaded or paint will get everywhere. Having a paper towel or similar to unload your brush will help.
Use acrylics, because they're easy to work with. Try and do multiple thin coats instead of 1 thick one, acrylics can be thinned with water, they should be about the consistency of milk. Also remember to paint in order from lightest to darkest, as it is much easier to paint dark over light.
A couple sets of sharp tweezers. 1 straight and 1 angled. Also those black plastic scribes that come in IT toolkits are godsends, and they're dirt cheap, like $8 for a 100 paxk.
Replace that glue you have with Tamiya Extra Thin Cement - it's easier to apply and just much better.
That is a great glue, i will also recommend BSI instacure for a cyanoacrelate glue. Also a high quality paintbrush ( Windsor Newton, citadel, Michelangelo) is worth its weight in gold
Agreed, been using those cheap $1< brushes for years, then got a Windsor Newton Series 7 brush, the difference is amazing.
Great brushes are amazing but you don’t need one of the expensive name-brand ones if you have a local art supply store. Blick especially has their own line of red sable brushes (Masterstroke, I think) that are only a teeny bit below the top-tier W&N brushes for a fraction of the price. My #2 round brush is still my daily driver almost three years later, and its listed price is $8 (but I bundled it with four other excellent brushes for $20 total). And if you go in-store, you also get the benefit of picking the brushes with the best points!
Nylon or Taklon are good for introducing the hobby, but your first "upgrade" should be some real sable brushes like the above suggest. If you take care of them, they'll be the last brushes you ever have to buy.
It's good for precise application of small amounts of glue. I don't use it for general work but it has its uses.
Will do, I’m gonna buy some next weekend.
Use the contacta glue (revell one) for glueing together big parts tried its pretty good but the only problem is that it gets stuck in the applicator needle thingy, jam a needle in it if it gets stuck jam another one. For tamiya extra thin yeah its great, Use it for glueing tiny parts, but the main reason to buy it is that its great at removing seam lines (like attaching to big parts and there's a gap) Which you can sand it down to completely remove the gap
Buy the extra thin quick setting on.
Yeah. This all the way. It's nice to have multiple types of glue for different applications. Contacta is great for gluing large things together when you need time to manipulate parts like warship hulls. Pro tip - Tamiya extra thin is the same as Tamiya airbrush cleaner except the AB cleaner is 10% of the price. Just fill up your glue pot with a large stock of cleaner from time to time.
Yep I tried that glue, it’s garbage
It's not garbage. It's pretty handy if you know when to use it and know the formula. It's good to have it, because it dries slower than Tamiya cement so you can manipulate parts before it dries, which comes handy in gluing tracks. Also correct me if I'm wrong, but it's semi resin, so you can use it to glue painted parts and if you're skilled enough, you can use it to glue canopy without fogging it.
Not sure what you mean by "semi resin"? It's still a methyl acetate based glue like Extra Thin and others so will destroy paint when bonding (as it melts the plastic) and fog clear parts if you use too much.
That's why I mentioned "if you skilled enough".
I agree. I was just going to say that.
The Revell glue is ok, personally I’ve never had problems with it.
Ir if you dont have it in your are (like i dont) you can also use revells liquid glue
Agree. I’ve been using the Revell cement for years, recently moved to Tamiya Extra Thin and it’s been a game changer!
Tip: Mighty toothpicks.... regular wooden toothpicks.
If you're using that tape for masking, don't. Get some Tamiya or other model masking tape (washi or similar yellow tape). Normal masking tape is too thick amd will also peel any paint off. As others said, Tamiya Extra glue is less messy and way better than what you have, but the Contacta will do for now. Proper nippers, the scissors won't cut plastic but are good for cutting out decals. Take your time, have fun and watch plenty of YT videos.
Nothing seems to peel Tamiya acrylics off though, the thing dries harder than steel…
50c washi tape from a gift store > almost anything
Best tip i can get you is spend less on everything else in live and just spend it on model making
Wiser words have never been spoken😇
Ow and also just do what you like and have fun, if I am mid project and i just don't feel it anymore and i stop having fun I just put it in a box an put it aside, i have tried to finish a model while not having fun and it sucks, it was not a very nice end product and i threw it away because i even hated to look at it.
In terms of supplies, you need a box of toothpicks. In terms of technique, when you're painting wheels, you can use a binder clip to hold toothpicks, which you can use to hold wheels while you paint them.
That’s actually really clever. I also happen to have both those things available lucky me.
Get yourself plenty of blades for your scalpel. Also make sure you have a suitable container to dispose of dull blades. Always dispose of them in a sturdy plastic container. Seal it up tight when it is full and you are getting rid of it. Always be safe when disposing of sharp things and chemicals.
I personally would get some type of nipper really anything would be better than nail scissor but they are better than nothing. Also tamya ultra thin cement is so much better than revell glue. Also the glue vapors are not that big deal I never wear any protection from them and just open the window if I will be using the glue for a long time. Paint vapors can be really bad tho if you use laquer or alcohol based paints and spray cans are really bad for you and I really recomend a rebreather for those. Water based paints are totally fine and you dont need any protection from them unless you are airbrushing. One thing I would get is sand papers of diffrent high grits and a pin vise with some small drill bits for drilling gun barrels and other details.
Thanks for the reply man, I’m definitely gonna get some of the Tamiya thin cement since that’s what everyone’s been telling me. I’ve looked at a couple of cheap respirators I might buy a respirator as-well just to be on the safe side.
You can get a respirator and it will probably come in handy in the future but the amount of fumes is very little especially with tamya extra thin since you use it so little and should be closing the cap eveytime you are not applying glue.
100% man. I’m not too concerned about paying for the extra protection. Thanks for the help:)
I disagree about the glue, especially for someone new. The extra thin stuff can be really frustrating to work with.
Frustrating? Hmm
Yeah when it takes multiple layers to produce the same bond as regular strength glue it's pretty frustrating.
If your putting it in place then putting the parts together a lot of the time, unless your fast you'll have a bad time.
Even being fast it's a weak bond, doesn't matter if you're knocking together a hundred soldiers off of pure muscle memory it's far better to use the regular strength glue.
Patience. When I started out as a kid I wanted to finish off models as quick as I could because I was so excited to see the finished product. This would cause so many mistakes and sloppy work. Now I’ve grown old(er) I’ve learnt to take my time. If it takes months to get to the finished product then so be it.
Always wash and degrease your hands before touching any parts you want to glue or paint. Have fun.
What are you going to sand with?
The little blue pack has three sanding “sticks” I’m planning on using.
They’re files, good at removing plastic but leave a very rough finish. Should look into getting some actual sanding sticks, preferably 400 and 800 grit for starting off with
I’ll definitely have to get some in the future. Thanks for the reply.
Or you can just buy sanding paper. More economical.
yeah, I got 2 sheets of 1600 grain for 3 euros. That was 2 years ago and I've got enough for another 2 easily
Get wet&dry sandpaper, 400, 800, 1200 and 2000 grit at a hardware store, its like 1.5€/sheet and 1 sheet lasts quite a while. Also dont bother with that mask, it wont filter out solvents.
I bought a painters respirator just yesterday which has been pretty good.
[удалено]
You can find them on new type for relatively cheap
Thx for the tips bro.
Learn which thinners each paint needs. Very important.
I guess all the good advice is done by all the guys here. I wish you a lot of fun and good luck for your first model.
Thanks man, good luck to you to.
Patience and dry fit the parts before you glue them . Don’t be afraid to sand parts to fit properly.
Also what respirator is recommended for protection against glue Vapours?
None, just open a window. Also I would suggest to buy Tamiya Ultra Thin cement, because the one from Revell really is quite thick. But it’s ok to start and practice.
I’ll definitely pick up a bottle in the future. Im also thinking I’ll pick up a respirator at some point as-well. Thanks for the reply:)
Use a fan and an open window to direct airflow out of the room, that’ll suffice for glue fumes, but if you can’t stand the smell then something by 3m will do
I’m gonna get some cheap respirators tomorrow. Better to be safe than sorry you know.
Very true, at worse you waste a bit of money and time putting it on, at best you save yourself from cancer.
I have a ventilator which the use in bathrooms and a small "pipe" that goes from it out of the window so anything bad goes out the window
Clever idea, not tooo feasible for me currently but still smart idea.
That face mask won't do anything. In fact, it's probably counter productive.
I just picked up a painters mask that’s supposed to help with fumes and such. Hopefully that’s effective at-least until I buy an expensive one.
Just make something. It's simple.
As far as tips goes: Take your time, it's not a race and any mistakes you do make can probably be fixed. Buy some cheap kits, or even kits others have built that are broken or something and practice new skills on those. I build tons of Gunpla and I will buy somebody's built kits that they messed up or don't want and use those as practice pieces.
Clear space in a cupboard/buy a shed for the inevitable stash of kits - there's a point at which collecting them becomes the main focus of the hobby. Either that or just purchase them as you build.
Some sprue cutters would make things easier and can make your hobby knife blade last a bit longer
Enjoy the process don't get excited and rush it.
Less is more and multiple light coats is better than one thick one.
If your using that mask for glue fumes I’d just toss it, it wont help in the slightest
Start off and build. You will notice what's missing. It's more fun to expand on your own experience. You can build great with these tools and bad with three times as much. Have a go at it!
You can try some cheap stainless steel dentist picks/tools, they work great for applying tiny amounts of anything you need to put on a model, are neat for scraping areas, prying things open, or any other function a dentist does to dental jobs that can also be applied to models and it's smaller pieces. And take your time with models, no need to rush/speed things just enjoy the experience.
I see you’re brushpainting, get a wide flat tipped brush for painting large flat areas on the tank. Paint in crisscross pattern and wait for each layer to dry first.
That mask isn’t gonna cut if if you’re trying to avoid paint fumes of any type. You’ll need a real respirator such as the 3m ones that have an n95 layer along with activated charcoal
Where did you get Tamiya putty? I need to know
I bought at this regular old model shop near my home.
Lucky my hobby shops suck, they ran out of cool stuff like that lol
Damn feels bad, I’m not super knowledgeable but maybe you could order the putty off the internet. Plenty of stores do shipping I believe.
Yea I was thinking of it, because I can’t even find any putty anywhere
>#New to Model making? > >#Check the [FAQ/Wiki](http://www.reddit.com/r/modelmakers/wiki/index) for some useful tips and tricks! > >There are entire sections on kits to buy, tools/consumables, painting in general, weathering specifically and links to online tutorials.
This should be at the top
A pack of sewing needles. Useful for all sorts of things - e.g. replacing pitot tubes with something shiny and not likely to break. Also take one and file the eye end down to a point half way down the eye so you end up with a two pronged little fork. Stick the sharp end in something to act as a handle (Bit of unwanted sprue is good). Use this as a CA glue applicator. It will get clogged up with dry CA glue after a bit but hold it in a cigarette lighter flame for a few seconds and the dry glue will burn off. Very useful for very small dabs of glue - especially for attaching tiny parts or small photoetch.
Get some sandpaper or sanding sticks in multiple grits. Any mistake you make can be erased. It'll make painting and modelling much more fun when undoing mistakes is easy.
A couple things: 1. A little tip if you need to make small holes for things like pylons for weapons and you don’t want to buy a hand drill is to get a safety pin and use a lighter to make the pin hot enough to melt the holes. It’s not perfect and takes a bit of cleanup as well, but has kept me happy for a while now. 2. If you use Mr Color paints don’t try and use water or any airbrush cleaner on it even to clean your airbrush. I found out the hard way that except mr hobby thinner itself anything I’ve used to try and clean out my airbrush will cause the paint to coagulate and clog up my airbrush. This may be because they are actually a different type of paint than I thought they were but there you go. Now you don’t have to make the same mistake as I do. (Edit: for the lighter thing, don’t heat it for too long or else it will make the whole pin super hot very fast and burn you. So little is more)
Bandages for when you drop the Xacto knife blade first into your thigh or foot. :)
Get some sandpaper or sanding sticks
Sprue cutters have already been mentioned but I’d like to suggest some really quality, reasonably priced ones I discovered years ago called CHP Micro Nippers. Tamiya, Mr. Hobby and Xuron are the top of the line nippers around but they’re usually around $40. The CHP TR-20 nipper is around $10 and very close in actual performance. And while the cut won’t be quite as flush as those pricier more expensive ones, I actually do prefer the larger handles and feel they offer better grip and control. I would also suggest Micro-Sol and Micro-Set t make application a breeze.
When you think you don't have enough weathering, then you have enough. -Hobby Shop Employee
Airbrush, if you want to get a feel before you buy a good one you can buy a $20 one and use some aerosol cans instead of a compressor to practice, if you like it then you can cough up the money for a good brush and compressor https://airbrushinsider.com/does-airbrush-require-compressor/
Are there any cheap compressor airbrushes. I’ve been searching for one but I have no idea what I should look for.
I think I got my cheap one for about $120 on Amazon, the airbrush was ok and the compressor didn’t have a tank so the pressure would fluctuate a bit between when you started painting and when it kicked on.
Ah ok so it might be a better idea to go with a mid range then.
If I could do it again that’s what I’d do
Just curious, Why the mask?
Buy an airbrush. Trust me, it's a game changer
Airbrush.
I’ll definitely consider one in the future but right now I reckon I’ll stick with the brushes. Thx for the suggestion.
I suggested an airbrush and got a -3 downvote score, while the post above mine also suggested an airbrush and has a +4 upvote score lol only on reddit. Hair paint brushes are great for detailing, nobody denies that. For those things that require pinpoint detail painting they are an absolute essential, and you're going to want a wide variety of shapes and sizes. Some you're going to want for detail, some you're going to need for weathering. But I don't care, I'll die on this hill- an airbrush is the single best investment you'll make in this hobby. I don't give a rat's ass if you're a newbie or not, it's the tool that eliminates tedium, frustration and the brush painted amateur look. They aren't terribly expensive either, a decent brush/compressor set on Amazon will set you back less than $200 usd. They're not hard to get the hang of, and add so much more satisfaction to your builds. So yeah, get an airbrush. Hell, get two.
Got you back to zero my friend, airbrush was a game changer for me. I thinned out my paint when I first started because I didn't want to paint over my details and as much as I tried, it still would happen. Getting an airbrush, and a poorly as I learned with it, has made a thousand times better paint job over brush on most applications. I'm sorry you got downvotes for simple feedback, I get not everyone will invest in it up front, but it does make a huge difference once you get more acclimated with the hobby.
Amazon right now has the GSI Procon PS-289 airbrush for just over $76, a steal for a normally $100 brush that can comfortably compete in the $200 brush range. As for compressors, get one that has a tank if you can if you don’t want to hear it turn on everything you spray something.
Oh jeez leweez... I don't really need another airbrush, but damn that's tempting lol
I don't see a nipper on the picture, even a cheap sidecutter would be better than the scissors, nail clipper pliers can also work, but a [flush cutter](https://www.amazon.com/HongWay-Cutters-Electronic-Jewelry-Cutting/dp/B09VBYLGR4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=flush+cutters&qid=1667046050&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0Ljk4IiwicXNhIjoiNC40NiIsInFzcCI6IjQuMjQifQ%3D%3D&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1) is really helpful I bought [this one](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001736644112.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.41.74eda12cf2hBN4&algo_pvid=cf0ba1a0-f8b3-4da7-92e9-ba2bc23be585&algo_exp_id=cf0ba1a0-f8b3-4da7-92e9-ba2bc23be585-20&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000017390972954%22%7D&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21DKK%2167.91%2154.31%21%21%21%21%21%40211bda9b16670461208723047d076d%2112000017390972954%21sea&curPageLogUid=sBGSBbUS5fVI), really good and cheap A small pack of automotive sandpaper. Or look in the supermarket in the nail polish department, lots of [cheap really good sanding sticks](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004229872692.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.55.47a96394hrEBY7&algo_pvid=36b97efc-cc34-46e7-9cb5-1eda2c1a1917&algo_exp_id=36b97efc-cc34-46e7-9cb5-1eda2c1a1917-27&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000028458689503%22%7D&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21DKK%2151.85%2136.31%21%21%21%21%21%402102188b16670462038996381d0733%2112000028458689503%21sea&curPageLogUid=itZMkens7Akq), both 60-180 grit for removing plastic, and polish sticks 3000 and above to make the plastic shine if needed. Also larger brushes for cleaning dust and dry brushing. Womens make up departments are a treasure trove for model builders You can use Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner as glue, almost the same formula as the Extra Thin. Much cheaper in the long run. Use a 000 brush as applicator. I have found a real surgical scalpel and blades are much cheaper and better than hobby knives. 10$ for the handle and 18$ for a hundred #11 blades, where I live that is cheaper by a lot. I got the blades from a dentist supplier. A piece of glass to cut the tape on is a cheap addition and helpful. Some much smaller brushes than the collection on the picture for detail work.
I cant tell you any tip, but i can tell you that if you continue making models: dont, DONT buy the 1:72 Marder III H, it maybe looks good, but hard to do af, there are a thousand and one details that, if you don't do them, it won't look good
Anyway, good luck to the Panther, it was a nice pastime to make my favorite tank
Wash the sprues in soap and water. Some older plastic kits may have mold release on them that can cause headaches when painting. Get some sprue cutters. Spend the extra time now dealing with nubs and mold lines or they will haunt you for the rest of your existence. Look up some Gundam building videos. Those guys are masters at dealing with mold lines and nubs. Good superglue is good. I like BSI. The super thin stuff is to be feared and respected. Glue micro tips are also useful. You can buy like 200 of them for $10 on Amazon. Adam Savage did a video on superglue over on YouTube. Change your xacto blade frequently. A dull knife is more dangerous than a sharp one. New blades are cheap, stitches are expensive. Get some cheap nail files at the dollar store. Tamiya gap filling putty can be useful. Green stuff is also useful.
If you’re in the Uk pop to Halfords and get a can of plastic primer and I sometimes get paint for cars that are similar to what colours I need.
Take your time, dry fit, sand flush, get rid of seams. Kits don't need to be finished in a few nights and you don't have to spend 5 hours a day on them. I have a USS Hughes that is highly detailed due to photo etch and I have to walk away for a few weeks before working on it again. Its okay, don't burn yourself out trying to be an expert at this hobby on day one.
Your workspace is too neat and not covered in a melange of paint and glue smears, but that will come in time. /s
Go slow. Test fit parts before gluing. Enjoy the journey. Model making is not a race.
There's a lot of good advice here but honestly, just do the thing. You'll learn what you need for future projects once you're done. It's all a big learning experience.
You forgot a handy list of expletives
Different mix types of * Superglue, thick medium, thin, foam safe. * Plastic glue, glass bottle type. Tamiya Extra Thin Cement * 40ml - Plastic Glue - two bottles * One of add plastic sprue to to make sprue goo. Very useful. * Model drill Hand one * Different grit nail sanding sticks. * Cheap thin paint brushes. * Cocktail sticks and BBQ sticks * Kids playdoe * Bluetack * Wine corks * 1 mm paperclips metal * Mini bulldog clips * Stanley Knife * Snap blade knifes * Razor blades old style blades * Scalpel and scalpel blades various types. * Modeling knife, different colours, and blades * First aid kit * Good face mask
Those masks don't protect you from plastic / resin dust...
Cross head tweezers are useful.
**No.1**: A boxcutter with a narrow blade (8-9 mm or so) > hobby knife. Because: 1. It's blade is straight, not angled - which is much much much more useful. 2. You can control blade length. 1/3 of the time I'm using only 3-4 mm on the tip of the blade for cleaning mold joints. Guess how many cuts on my fingers I've got in 1.5 years of using it? None. And yes, I own different knifes: both with a regular 6 mm blade (and it's terrible) and a smaller 4 mm one like Suyata makes (has some actual uses, but more niche than a boxcutter). **No.2**: Tamiya Extra Thin is useful, but a bit overrated and doesn't do well as "the only cement you'd need". It melts plastic fast and evaporates, but then it takes ages for plastic to dry properly afterwards which makes using it for small pieces a nightmare. For that I always keep a bottle of thick cement. **No.3**: Reverse tweezers are incredibly useful. Nuff said. **No.4**: Elastic masking tape (PVC-like) > paper masking tape (regular painter's tape). Because paper doesn't do well with uneven surfaces, and sides of a paper tape aren't particularly flat either. **No.5**: Proper sidecutters are a must if you're building more than a single model. Trust me, I've used nail scissors for half a year, and even a $4 sidecutters are miles better. But get a specialized ones, regular sidecutters for electrics won't do. **No.6**: Flat / angled brushes > round brushes. Round brushes work well only in small sizes for painting tiny details. For anything else use a flat brush, and angled brush also allows you to use a pointy bit as well. **No.7**: Files are ok for a very rough result, but sandpaper is much better. I've got 320/600/800/1000 A4 sheets for <$1 each - and still have over a half of the size.
If you're going to be painting with anything other than acrylics, I recommend getting a Face Mask with filters.
An airbrush and compressor
Get a pair of Xeron(?) sprue nippers. Hold and fold tool for photo etched parts. I also turn the springs around in my clothes pins so the handle part is the pinchy part (because it works better in certain cases). That’s just a few.
Tamiya extra thin is good, as are it’s competitors (Ammo Extra Thin and Mr Cement S come to mind) so use whatever you can get hold of. My number 1 bit of advice though: As far as painting goes, try to do several thin coats rather than painting all at once. Once your paints are thinned, make sure your brush isn’t overloaded or paint will get everywhere. Having a paper towel or similar to unload your brush will help.
Use acrylics, because they're easy to work with. Try and do multiple thin coats instead of 1 thick one, acrylics can be thinned with water, they should be about the consistency of milk. Also remember to paint in order from lightest to darkest, as it is much easier to paint dark over light.
A couple sets of sharp tweezers. 1 straight and 1 angled. Also those black plastic scribes that come in IT toolkits are godsends, and they're dirt cheap, like $8 for a 100 paxk.