The Mk4 doesn't need it because it calibrates by you hing the bed directly with the nozzle, the MK3/S/S+/.5 has a different sensor that has a different calibration with each sheet
Just reach out to Prusa. Here is their reply:
“Swapping sheets is a feature we are working on, and it should be available soon in an upcoming Firmware upgrade, and it will work very similar to the way it did with the MK3S+”
My daily driver is a mk3s+ right now, but I am deciding between the mk3.5, and a1 mini.
It’s about the same price, but a whole second printer feels like the bigger upgrade.
How did you all decide?
A1/A1 Mini all the way. Bambu obliterates Prusa’s offerings at the moment. My Bambu machines completely outclass my MK4s. I can do prints on my Bambu machines that have no chance in hell of working on my MK4s. I hope Prusa catches up soon! It sucks seeing Prusa falling behind so hard. They’re a good company.
[Example](https://youtu.be/EvurwsXqPM0?si=2yk_MU7kEAYUX6TF)
I did this by using klipper, my raspberry pi I was using for octoprint and a cheapie accelerometer. The speed increases are very nice. I have a smile every time I print now, since its so much faster
It's not too bad really. I got the most confused about importing the printing profiles from the 3.5 just because I wasn't sure what the guide was asking me to do.
The accelerometer part was fun. I used a pi pico as an intermediary so that made it easy. i designed a little clip for the bed to hold the accelerometer in place.
I sort of think it makes sense to set the input shaping before doing any filament tuning since you have to redo some of it anyway afterwards.
Ah interesting! I've got an ADXL345, and a spare Pico, how did you manage to use the Pico as the intermediary? I can imagine this makes things a lot easier when using serial via. USB.Also, was [this tutorial](https://github.com/charminULTRA/Klipper-Input-Shaping-MK3S-Upgrade) that you followed?
yes that tutorial.
https://www.klipper3d.org/Measuring_Resonances.html this page has the hookup guide and the commands etc.
I also used this video as a guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OoWQUcFimX8
If you have the normal green pico then follow that exactly. If you are like me and somehow bought a purple one there is a slight change where the wires go.
edit// feel free to message me with more questions.
Other advice is to have your models printed for mounting the accelerometer to the print head and the bed before you start doing everything. You can use one accelerometer for both. I mounted mine to the bed, ran the y-axis input shaping. then unhooked it. moved it to my print head mount and ran the x-axis input shaping portion.
Are you using an MMU with it? I've been debating whether I want to upgrade my MK3S+ to a 3.5 and get a MMU3 to go with it or just get a A1+AMSlite when they are selling em again.
The Bambu route is cheaper since I could then either sell my MK3S or use it as a backup printer. The 3.5 sounds good but since I want multi-material and the MMU2 was seemingly (based on reviews) not reliable I'm hesitant to jump into the MMU3. I don't want my printing hobby to turn into a "constantly tweak stuff" hobby.
congrats on your upgrade. I just finished building mine yesterday and I'm really happy with how it went and how it works now. spent all of today calibrating MMU3 profiles because for some reason the same filament values that worked for mk3s+, don't work for mk3.5 (I have revo 6 so default don't really work for me)
I ordered my MK4 kit and the 3.5 upgrade at the same time. I'm putting together my MK4 kit this week. Once it's up and running, I'll be using it and my MK3S+ to print the 3.5 upgrade parts. Then I will upgrade the MK3S+.
I've never had anything that would resemble a business case for owning a 3D printer in the first place. It's about me having fun and learning and spending time with my teenager.
The sound is different, but overall, if anything, it is a little more noticeable in my setting (on a sideboard with a factory frame and feed). I'm thinking about printing some anti-vibration feed. It's not much, though, and I assume the experience varies with the setup.
Ah interesting, thanks! I’ve used the concrete block with rubber feet underneath which does a lot for the resonation. I keep flip flopping between spending the money on the 3.5 upgrade or selling and getting a Bambu A1
I understand. I'm going to be a PRUSA guy for the foreseeable future. Personal preference of open source from Czech Republic vs. commercialization from Shenzhen :-)
That's very interesting to hear. I have a MK3 I bought in 2018 and upgraded to S and then S+, but looking at the upgrades they are very expensive for what you get. I was thinking of perhaps the 3.9 upgrade but honestly, my printer prints very nicely right now and its hard to justify any more than the 3.5. I still think its a lot of money for whats basically a new mainboard and lcd.
today i finished the 3.9 upgrade and snapped the bloody extrusion fan door closing it. I've ordered a new one. My printer now feels its got a turbo fitted! not loving prusalink vs octoprint though, seems a bit limited on first glance but i'll have fun finding out.
I've been a bit out of the loop on all things prusa for a while, but I heard the MK4 wasn't the greatest upgrade. Any reason no to do the 3.9 or MK4 upgrade? Or is 3.5 provide enough improvement on its own?
It simply comes down to cost benefit. If you’re looking to upgrade to a mk3.9/4, it’s significantly cheaper to simply sell your mk3s+ and buy a new mk4 kit. Even Prusa stated they’re only offering those upgrades because people insisted.
The mk3.5 is the better option if you’re not going full bore.
Completely agree with only one complaint. Switching b/t different sheets (eg steel vs texture) takes way too many clicks imo.
And you can't see which sheet profile you're currently using without going in to the menu to check. This should be on the home screen in the footer.
Once you have added 2 or more sheets you can quickly change between them in the controls menu
There’s a setting that you can change what’s shown on the footer.
But the selected plated isn't one of the options, first thing I tried to add
TIL there’s a setting for sheets. I just swap and go for it on my MK4. Have you noticed a large difference?
I do not Think the mk4 has that option. Mk3.5 does not have a load cell so it needs it.
Unless I missed it, I didn't see it on my Mk4 either.
The Mk4 doesn't need it because it calibrates by you hing the bed directly with the nozzle, the MK3/S/S+/.5 has a different sensor that has a different calibration with each sheet
You are right. That is a downside.
Just reach out to Prusa. Here is their reply: “Swapping sheets is a feature we are working on, and it should be available soon in an upcoming Firmware upgrade, and it will work very similar to the way it did with the MK3S+”
Yup, adding input shaper is like swapping an HDD for an SSD in a pc. Massive improvement.
My daily driver is a mk3s+ right now, but I am deciding between the mk3.5, and a1 mini. It’s about the same price, but a whole second printer feels like the bigger upgrade. How did you all decide?
I would buy a 2nd printer then upgrade the MK3 later.
Upgrade to MK3.5
A1/A1 Mini all the way. Bambu obliterates Prusa’s offerings at the moment. My Bambu machines completely outclass my MK4s. I can do prints on my Bambu machines that have no chance in hell of working on my MK4s. I hope Prusa catches up soon! It sucks seeing Prusa falling behind so hard. They’re a good company. [Example](https://youtu.be/EvurwsXqPM0?si=2yk_MU7kEAYUX6TF)
I have 2 kits coming tomorrow for both of mine. The input shaping on my Minis really sold it.
What is the effective print speed upgrade for you? Are you planning to benchmark the print speed improvements?
It’s about 1.5x - 2x faster than the mk3s+ And a little slower than the MK4 Source: I have two mk3.5 machines and two mk4 machines (and a mini)
Based on my Mini+, roughly 240-260mm/s. So at least 5 times faster print speed.
I did this by using klipper, my raspberry pi I was using for octoprint and a cheapie accelerometer. The speed increases are very nice. I have a smile every time I print now, since its so much faster
I’m about to do this, got the accelerometer yesterday. How did you find the process?
It's not too bad really. I got the most confused about importing the printing profiles from the 3.5 just because I wasn't sure what the guide was asking me to do. The accelerometer part was fun. I used a pi pico as an intermediary so that made it easy. i designed a little clip for the bed to hold the accelerometer in place. I sort of think it makes sense to set the input shaping before doing any filament tuning since you have to redo some of it anyway afterwards.
Ah interesting! I've got an ADXL345, and a spare Pico, how did you manage to use the Pico as the intermediary? I can imagine this makes things a lot easier when using serial via. USB.Also, was [this tutorial](https://github.com/charminULTRA/Klipper-Input-Shaping-MK3S-Upgrade) that you followed?
yes that tutorial. https://www.klipper3d.org/Measuring_Resonances.html this page has the hookup guide and the commands etc. I also used this video as a guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OoWQUcFimX8 If you have the normal green pico then follow that exactly. If you are like me and somehow bought a purple one there is a slight change where the wires go. edit// feel free to message me with more questions.
Amazing, thanks so much!
Other advice is to have your models printed for mounting the accelerometer to the print head and the bed before you start doing everything. You can use one accelerometer for both. I mounted mine to the bed, ran the y-axis input shaping. then unhooked it. moved it to my print head mount and ran the x-axis input shaping portion.
Are you using an MMU with it? I've been debating whether I want to upgrade my MK3S+ to a 3.5 and get a MMU3 to go with it or just get a A1+AMSlite when they are selling em again. The Bambu route is cheaper since I could then either sell my MK3S or use it as a backup printer. The 3.5 sounds good but since I want multi-material and the MMU2 was seemingly (based on reviews) not reliable I'm hesitant to jump into the MMU3. I don't want my printing hobby to turn into a "constantly tweak stuff" hobby.
I do not. Sorry.
Not reliable, still got issue with my mmu3. If I would start again, ams would be the solution to me
Agreed! Upgraded mine this weekend too and love it! Wish I did it a year ago.
congrats on your upgrade. I just finished building mine yesterday and I'm really happy with how it went and how it works now. spent all of today calibrating MMU3 profiles because for some reason the same filament values that worked for mk3s+, don't work for mk3.5 (I have revo 6 so default don't really work for me)
I ordered my MK4 kit and the 3.5 upgrade at the same time. I'm putting together my MK4 kit this week. Once it's up and running, I'll be using it and my MK3S+ to print the 3.5 upgrade parts. Then I will upgrade the MK3S+.
But was it actually worth it. The cost?
I've never had anything that would resemble a business case for owning a 3D printer in the first place. It's about me having fun and learning and spending time with my teenager.
Shipped to North America, it is a total of $275 so I think it's worth it.
Is the printer any quieter now?
The sound is different, but overall, if anything, it is a little more noticeable in my setting (on a sideboard with a factory frame and feed). I'm thinking about printing some anti-vibration feed. It's not much, though, and I assume the experience varies with the setup.
Ah interesting, thanks! I’ve used the concrete block with rubber feet underneath which does a lot for the resonation. I keep flip flopping between spending the money on the 3.5 upgrade or selling and getting a Bambu A1
I understand. I'm going to be a PRUSA guy for the foreseeable future. Personal preference of open source from Czech Republic vs. commercialization from Shenzhen :-)
Yes, very understandable, and one of the main reasons I’m even debating it. Happy printing!😄
Just printed these https://www.printables.com/model/1727-anti-vibration-feet-for-prusa-mk3ss-mk4-and-prusa- Much quieter now.
It’s more noisy but it’s also printing faster and the noise is way more pleasant.
How long did the upgrade take? Thank you for sharing!
5 hours, including maintenance and software.
How's your first layer? https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/s/QOLXpSbsoa
So far so good but I'm not done dialing things in.
That's very interesting to hear. I have a MK3 I bought in 2018 and upgraded to S and then S+, but looking at the upgrades they are very expensive for what you get. I was thinking of perhaps the 3.9 upgrade but honestly, my printer prints very nicely right now and its hard to justify any more than the 3.5. I still think its a lot of money for whats basically a new mainboard and lcd.
today i finished the 3.9 upgrade and snapped the bloody extrusion fan door closing it. I've ordered a new one. My printer now feels its got a turbo fitted! not loving prusalink vs octoprint though, seems a bit limited on first glance but i'll have fun finding out.
I want to do it, but octoprint is so sweet.
I've been a bit out of the loop on all things prusa for a while, but I heard the MK4 wasn't the greatest upgrade. Any reason no to do the 3.9 or MK4 upgrade? Or is 3.5 provide enough improvement on its own?
Mk4 is awesome. The upgrade from mk3 to mk4 is just too expensive. It’s too close to the cost of a full mk4 kit.
It simply comes down to cost benefit. If you’re looking to upgrade to a mk3.9/4, it’s significantly cheaper to simply sell your mk3s+ and buy a new mk4 kit. Even Prusa stated they’re only offering those upgrades because people insisted. The mk3.5 is the better option if you’re not going full bore.