People are way to sensitive about oil. Unless you have a very exotic car ready caring about oil is dumb. Just run any full synthetic of the OEM specified viscosity from a reasonablly reputable brand (Mobile, Pennzoil, Valvoiline, etc) those companies all produce oil to the same standards and there is nothing terriblly special about one compared to the others.
WELL THATS NOT RIGHT AND I PREFER..
Just playing.. I buy whatevers on sale from one of the reputable brands that day and move on with my life. They're all fine. Honestly the filter probably matters more.
Pennzoil platinum is synthesized from natural gas and it’s different than all the other major brands. I do believe when push comes to shove it performs better in extreme conditions that 95% of us will never recreate.
Good points made for sure.
I think the overly sensitized oil problems were because of mechanical technology being superior to oil technology. Throw in some things like high prices due to engine issues, or even the inconvenience of taking a car to a shop and now all the sudden it's the most important thing about a car. TGDI engines are extremely prone to fuel dilution so now short change intervals are more critical due to that (brand doesn't even matter like you said if the interval is only 3 or 4,000 miles). Realistically the transmission fluid is probably more important these days especially with CVTs.
Like everyone said you want to get one from a trusted brand but get a good oil filter look at the before you buy them and get one with the moth holes in it
"reasonably reputable brand" - I would say brand is slightly important. I ran that SuperTech crap from Walmart once (they were all out of the usual brands I'd choose from), and after a thousand miles or so my truck started making a weird noise when MDS was running. If I'd press the gear +/-, which kicks it out of MDS, it would stop. I was expecting to fork out some serious money on head work, so I kept driving it as-is, just being sure to hit the gear button to shut off MDS. Finally got to my next oil change interval, got the brand I normally use... and amazingly enough, I have not heard the noise since.
I've had 3 hemis now. Ran factory spec oil. Mobile 1 fully synthetic. Changed it every 5k miles. No troubles at all.
The most important thing with a hemi is to change your oil regularly, not how fancy your oil is. Stick with factory weight.
I can add on to this one too. I’ve got a 2010 5.7 with 175k on it. It has exhaust manifold issues but that’s to be expected. I haven’t had a single internal issue with it and I do oil changes every 5k miles or sooner.
And what my local dealership puts in. They stopped using any other oil for Hemi’s. No issues ever with my Hemi’s going back to 2006 over three vehicles.
Same here. I'm on my 2nd Ram hemi and use Mobil 1 5w20 full synthetic which is what's specified on the oil cap (the weight not the brand). Never had any problems, no hemi tic. The 5.7 is bullet proof as long as you change the oil every 5-6 k miles.
That's right, it's the excessive idle time which kills the lifters, because the path for the oil to the lifters is this tiny pinhole designed by a pinhead... and the way the engine sits may also play a role, but i think it's that pinhole sized entry point and perhaps the Oil Pump failing to push the required oil to maintain the right pressure.
I've had 4 Hemis, 2 came with the tick, 2 developed the tick and the fourth one is the worst of them all and literally needs the lifters changed lol.... Vibrates hard as I hit the gas...
I will say this... Class Action Lawsuit For Ram to rebuild every single Hemi Motor to fix those Lifters or Give us Parts for Free/Cost price... We should push for this and use TIKTOK, TWITTER, TELEGRAM, INSTAGRAM, YOUTUBE to gather 1000s of Ram owners on this matter. I'm about ready to get that initiative started, i ain't paying no 4 grand for a lifter job or 6-10k for a new motor...
I have a 2017 HEMI very low miles. I drive my Jeep mostly so it does not get driven that much but when I did. The Lifters chatter like the engine is coming apart for a good 30 seconds so a few years ago I switched to Castrol 5w-30 full syn and the issue has never returned.
I had a 2015 with 142k miles before I traded it in for my 2023. I used Costco’s Kirkland full synthetic 5w-20 and had zero issues, I wasn’t great at changing it every 5k miles, definitely came closer to 10k way too often. Even with the longer intervals, no issues. I shoot for 5k on my new one though.
I’m curious now about that oil you mentioned. I’ve always used Mobil 1 5w-20 high mileage. I’m at 136,000 (not high) but not a single issue. Also, I always and I mean always use 93 octane BP gas. I’m down for any tips to keep this thing running as long as she can
Can't go wrong with that combo.
For what it's worth, the some manufacturers like Toyota seem to prioritize flow vs filtration efficiency via low micron rated filters. Interesting thing to think about.
The Amsoil filter has been known to set a check engine light on the Hemi engines because of that exact thing. So Amsoil recommends the Wix Filter even though it doesn't filter as well.
The Amsoil is the same as the Fram Endurance and Royal Purple from the best of my knowledge. All are made by First Brands.
I think you are referring to the smaller size 5.7 Hemi filter that was used once they went to electronic power steering. That filter has a smaller media unit so higher filtration and smaller surface area could lead to the check engine light. The larger size filter used on the hydraulic power steering does not have that same issue.
Just tossing that all out there for anyone interested.
The EA15K50 is the Amsoil filter that will set a code on the Hemi engines. If you look it up on Amsoil website they only recommend the Wix 57060 because of the check engine light issue.
I have a 2006 hemi truck going on 240k miles, and it's never needed any lifter work or issues with the cam. Proper maintenance at the suggested mileage helps out a ton like with any vehicle. Once I got to 150k I started using 5w-30 personally but honestly, it doesn't matter if you stay with the OEM standard or go up. Hemi's are hard to kill if they are looked after and maintained.
It is not my friend. Good oil, not the best. Since it went to the SP API rating the oil has been drastically reduced with it's additive package. You can read more on [bobistheoilguy.com](http://bobistheoilguy.com)
I cannot pinpoint a single article. Look at the used oil analysis or even virgin oil analysis. There is plenty of talk. Basically when it was sm/sn it was "better" and once sp spec hit it changed and lost certain approvals. The consensus on bobistheoilguy is that they either didn't want to pay for the approvals or the oil did not meet those approvals. Why would a company not want their flagship oil to be approved in as many ways as possible? That I don't know. It has gas to liquid base oils which are good, but something else must have been the reason. Redline would be ester based which would provide certain benefits. All told, the end user would need to determine what benefits they want to pay for because as quality goes up, typically the price will as well. Amsoil would be more geared towards a long drain interval whereas the Redline would probably and I say that with it's own grain of salt provide better performance in certain ways.
Oh and I get downvoted all the time on any oil related discussion on Reddit. Too many people believe Project Farm backyard testing which is strictly for entertainment or random forum poster advice. Nobody thinks independently and researches data.
Current bobistheoilguy favorite is actually High Performance Lubricants in Illinois. Real good data and transparency from that company.
2014 1500 with no tick (85k miles). New to me truck and I’m running Pennzoil ultra 5w20 with a Royal purple filter. I might switch to the redline but the PUP was more accessible to me. In theory I live somewhere it could be super cold this time of year but it hasn’t. Depending on when I do my next oil change I might do the 5w30 if it’s going to be hot for awhile.
Edit to say that 5k oil changes for me max. I did my first one at 4k because I didn’t know what the engine had in it and wanted to get something good
Ultra platinum 5w20, in the summer when I’m towing my boat a lot I’ll use 5w30 ultra platinum. That’s about it. The key thing is oil changes every 5k, do not do the 10k oil change interval
Always have full synthetic oil change done factory spec weight. Always 5k miles or under. Just hit 44k miles in my 2019 and she runs smooth as silk no ticking at all
It’s more important to use the same synthetic oil for the life of the engine at short change intervals. Stay with the recommended weight, the engineers who designed the engine know better than a handful of “mechanics” on the internet. 200k on mine and still purrs like day 1.
Ive owned four 5.7s starting in 2005.
Changed all of them with 5w20 full synthetic, no real allegiance to a brand, but always a major brand (Mobil1, Valvoline, etc); typically 5k - 7k miles between changes .
2005 had 250k , burned no oil, died when it hit a tree
2006 had 240k, would use 1/2 qt over 5k miles after about 225k.
2013, traded in with 225k, burned no oil.
None of these ever had a valve cover off. I purchased the 06 and 13 new. The 2005 I purchased with 100k on it.
The 4th is a 2021 with 35k on it. So far, so good.
My 13 Ram 5.7, use only 5w20 penz ultra plat, with lubeguard biotech and boss oil filter. I have the truck tuned, turned off the cyl deactivation since it had 30k miles, zero tick. But, I feel the oil pump makes more difference for the hemi tick issue. My truck has a good oil pump, 60s and 70 psi on freeway and startup.
People are way to sensitive about oil. Unless you have a very exotic car ready caring about oil is dumb. Just run any full synthetic of the OEM specified viscosity from a reasonablly reputable brand (Mobile, Pennzoil, Valvoiline, etc) those companies all produce oil to the same standards and there is nothing terriblly special about one compared to the others.
WELL THATS NOT RIGHT AND I PREFER.. Just playing.. I buy whatevers on sale from one of the reputable brands that day and move on with my life. They're all fine. Honestly the filter probably matters more.
Pennzoil platinum is synthesized from natural gas and it’s different than all the other major brands. I do believe when push comes to shove it performs better in extreme conditions that 95% of us will never recreate.
Good points made for sure. I think the overly sensitized oil problems were because of mechanical technology being superior to oil technology. Throw in some things like high prices due to engine issues, or even the inconvenience of taking a car to a shop and now all the sudden it's the most important thing about a car. TGDI engines are extremely prone to fuel dilution so now short change intervals are more critical due to that (brand doesn't even matter like you said if the interval is only 3 or 4,000 miles). Realistically the transmission fluid is probably more important these days especially with CVTs.
I work for one of the major oil’s. This is certified facts.
Like everyone said you want to get one from a trusted brand but get a good oil filter look at the before you buy them and get one with the moth holes in it
"reasonably reputable brand" - I would say brand is slightly important. I ran that SuperTech crap from Walmart once (they were all out of the usual brands I'd choose from), and after a thousand miles or so my truck started making a weird noise when MDS was running. If I'd press the gear +/-, which kicks it out of MDS, it would stop. I was expecting to fork out some serious money on head work, so I kept driving it as-is, just being sure to hit the gear button to shut off MDS. Finally got to my next oil change interval, got the brand I normally use... and amazingly enough, I have not heard the noise since.
I've had 3 hemis now. Ran factory spec oil. Mobile 1 fully synthetic. Changed it every 5k miles. No troubles at all. The most important thing with a hemi is to change your oil regularly, not how fancy your oil is. Stick with factory weight.
I can add on to this one too. I’ve got a 2010 5.7 with 175k on it. It has exhaust manifold issues but that’s to be expected. I haven’t had a single internal issue with it and I do oil changes every 5k miles or sooner.
Factory fill in Canada is Pennzoil Platinum.
And what my local dealership puts in. They stopped using any other oil for Hemi’s. No issues ever with my Hemi’s going back to 2006 over three vehicles.
I second the Pennzoil great stuff. I switched to Ultra platinum after watching the reviews by projectfarm on YouTube.
I only use Pennzoil platinum or valvoline advanced full-syn. Both meet the mopar spec.
Lol, not sure how this is getting downvoted. It’s fact.
Same here. I'm on my 2nd Ram hemi and use Mobil 1 5w20 full synthetic which is what's specified on the oil cap (the weight not the brand). Never had any problems, no hemi tic. The 5.7 is bullet proof as long as you change the oil every 5-6 k miles.
Third. Mobile 1 in my past three hemi’s without issue.
Exactly. Keep up with your oil changes, and minimize the idle time. Two keys for longevity in a 5.7.
That's right, it's the excessive idle time which kills the lifters, because the path for the oil to the lifters is this tiny pinhole designed by a pinhead... and the way the engine sits may also play a role, but i think it's that pinhole sized entry point and perhaps the Oil Pump failing to push the required oil to maintain the right pressure. I've had 4 Hemis, 2 came with the tick, 2 developed the tick and the fourth one is the worst of them all and literally needs the lifters changed lol.... Vibrates hard as I hit the gas... I will say this... Class Action Lawsuit For Ram to rebuild every single Hemi Motor to fix those Lifters or Give us Parts for Free/Cost price... We should push for this and use TIKTOK, TWITTER, TELEGRAM, INSTAGRAM, YOUTUBE to gather 1000s of Ram owners on this matter. I'm about ready to get that initiative started, i ain't paying no 4 grand for a lifter job or 6-10k for a new motor...
I have a 2017 HEMI very low miles. I drive my Jeep mostly so it does not get driven that much but when I did. The Lifters chatter like the engine is coming apart for a good 30 seconds so a few years ago I switched to Castrol 5w-30 full syn and the issue has never returned.
I had a 2015 with 142k miles before I traded it in for my 2023. I used Costco’s Kirkland full synthetic 5w-20 and had zero issues, I wasn’t great at changing it every 5k miles, definitely came closer to 10k way too often. Even with the longer intervals, no issues. I shoot for 5k on my new one though.
I’m curious now about that oil you mentioned. I’ve always used Mobil 1 5w-20 high mileage. I’m at 136,000 (not high) but not a single issue. Also, I always and I mean always use 93 octane BP gas. I’m down for any tips to keep this thing running as long as she can
I used same octane in my. Noticed a difference
It is rated for 89 technically. Are you referring to the engine performance or lifter tick though?
Engine performance
Amsoil Signature Series with a Wix Filter. I'm coming up on 120k miles on my 2014.
Can't go wrong with that combo. For what it's worth, the some manufacturers like Toyota seem to prioritize flow vs filtration efficiency via low micron rated filters. Interesting thing to think about.
The Amsoil filter has been known to set a check engine light on the Hemi engines because of that exact thing. So Amsoil recommends the Wix Filter even though it doesn't filter as well.
The Amsoil is the same as the Fram Endurance and Royal Purple from the best of my knowledge. All are made by First Brands. I think you are referring to the smaller size 5.7 Hemi filter that was used once they went to electronic power steering. That filter has a smaller media unit so higher filtration and smaller surface area could lead to the check engine light. The larger size filter used on the hydraulic power steering does not have that same issue. Just tossing that all out there for anyone interested.
The EA15K50 is the Amsoil filter that will set a code on the Hemi engines. If you look it up on Amsoil website they only recommend the Wix 57060 because of the check engine light issue.
Yeah that's the small one. Thanks for the filter number reference.
I've been running 5w30 Mobil 1 full synthetic on my 03 hemi. 238k miles and still running perfect with no tick.
I run 5w30 royal purple and I’ve done so for two hemis and a 360 mopar.
I have a 2006 hemi truck going on 240k miles, and it's never needed any lifter work or issues with the cam. Proper maintenance at the suggested mileage helps out a ton like with any vehicle. Once I got to 150k I started using 5w-30 personally but honestly, it doesn't matter if you stay with the OEM standard or go up. Hemi's are hard to kill if they are looked after and maintained.
Pennzoil Ultra is the best oil you can run before getting into Amsoil and Redline territory.
It is not my friend. Good oil, not the best. Since it went to the SP API rating the oil has been drastically reduced with it's additive package. You can read more on [bobistheoilguy.com](http://bobistheoilguy.com)
Can you link me a bitog article about the additive changes in pennzoil ultra?
I cannot pinpoint a single article. Look at the used oil analysis or even virgin oil analysis. There is plenty of talk. Basically when it was sm/sn it was "better" and once sp spec hit it changed and lost certain approvals. The consensus on bobistheoilguy is that they either didn't want to pay for the approvals or the oil did not meet those approvals. Why would a company not want their flagship oil to be approved in as many ways as possible? That I don't know. It has gas to liquid base oils which are good, but something else must have been the reason. Redline would be ester based which would provide certain benefits. All told, the end user would need to determine what benefits they want to pay for because as quality goes up, typically the price will as well. Amsoil would be more geared towards a long drain interval whereas the Redline would probably and I say that with it's own grain of salt provide better performance in certain ways. Oh and I get downvoted all the time on any oil related discussion on Reddit. Too many people believe Project Farm backyard testing which is strictly for entertainment or random forum poster advice. Nobody thinks independently and researches data. Current bobistheoilguy favorite is actually High Performance Lubricants in Illinois. Real good data and transparency from that company.
Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra Platinum 5w20. Good deals on it ordering from Walmart and usually free next day delivery. Wix 57060 filter
2014 1500 with no tick (85k miles). New to me truck and I’m running Pennzoil ultra 5w20 with a Royal purple filter. I might switch to the redline but the PUP was more accessible to me. In theory I live somewhere it could be super cold this time of year but it hasn’t. Depending on when I do my next oil change I might do the 5w30 if it’s going to be hot for awhile. Edit to say that 5k oil changes for me max. I did my first one at 4k because I didn’t know what the engine had in it and wanted to get something good
Dude you are one bad mama Jama
[удалено]
Sir, don't take offense to this, but you don't understand the science of engine oil lubrication when it comes to certain things at least.
Ultra platinum 5w20, in the summer when I’m towing my boat a lot I’ll use 5w30 ultra platinum. That’s about it. The key thing is oil changes every 5k, do not do the 10k oil change interval
I’ve switched up a few different times now, but lately I’ve been running Quaker State full synthetic 5w20 with a Fram Ultra Synthetic filter every 5k.
Always have full synthetic oil change done factory spec weight. Always 5k miles or under. Just hit 44k miles in my 2019 and she runs smooth as silk no ticking at all
It’s more important to use the same synthetic oil for the life of the engine at short change intervals. Stay with the recommended weight, the engineers who designed the engine know better than a handful of “mechanics” on the internet. 200k on mine and still purrs like day 1.
Ive owned four 5.7s starting in 2005. Changed all of them with 5w20 full synthetic, no real allegiance to a brand, but always a major brand (Mobil1, Valvoline, etc); typically 5k - 7k miles between changes . 2005 had 250k , burned no oil, died when it hit a tree 2006 had 240k, would use 1/2 qt over 5k miles after about 225k. 2013, traded in with 225k, burned no oil. None of these ever had a valve cover off. I purchased the 06 and 13 new. The 2005 I purchased with 100k on it. The 4th is a 2021 with 35k on it. So far, so good.
I use Penzoil Ultra platinum 5w20 and a Mobil 1 filter. No issues so far, but I'm just closing in on 100k miles.
My truck came back from the dealer shop one time with the lifters noisy on start up. Been using synthetic oil since without problems.
Running amsoil because I know a guy and it’s cheap lol
Use full synthetic. Change every 5k. Hemi engines run very dirty.
Penz ultra plat or mobile 1 extended perf. Valvoline is great as well
Any quality 5w-30. Just made the change today and couldn't be happier.
Penzoil Platinum full synthetic is what my dealer uses.
Whatever’s on the oil change special at the auto parts store.
My 13 Ram 5.7, use only 5w20 penz ultra plat, with lubeguard biotech and boss oil filter. I have the truck tuned, turned off the cyl deactivation since it had 30k miles, zero tick. But, I feel the oil pump makes more difference for the hemi tick issue. My truck has a good oil pump, 60s and 70 psi on freeway and startup.