Hornady Custom might be better if you prefer to keep it simple and avoid the bushing issue. For hunting ammo that will likely be more than plenty good. If you are curious about the difference and pros/cons there is a pretty good Hornady podcast on it.
Sure...
A podcast by the people who sell that thing to you.
I'm sure they won't be biased.
My cheap as f Lee dies produce great ammo to the same level some 200$ die sets do.
I see...
I might not be qualified to comment on the matter regarding the American market.
Thanks for showing me lol.
In europe lee die sets are 55-70$, rcbs are like 90-100 and Forster are like... 150-200.
Disregard my comment above
For bulk, full length size with Dillon trim followed by neck sizing with whatever die gives you the tension you like.
For precision, you can’t beat Redding bushings IMO.
Can you clarify? Are you saying your process is full length size, trim, then neck size? Please elaborate why just the full length size is not sufficient, or why you prefer to do both.
Dillon Trim die doesn’t do neck well. Also, I clean the brass after the trim process. Wet cleaning messes with neck tension. So, I adjust neck tension after that 2nd cleaning. Sometimes I just use M die. Sometimes I just use a neck size die when doing the reloading.
I have some pretty clear witness marks on my lee seating dies, not that it seems to have any correlation to accuracy because they produce excellent ammunition. I may honestly have a neck tension issue that I haven't had a need to address.
Lee gets the job done on a budget. I use mostly RCBS because I like the lock rings better. Hornady and Lyman are similar to RCBS with Redding and Dillon being more expensive. There is no need for most of us to pay for the exotic competition dies.
I love Lee dies. Especially since they have different kits for different needs, but they all come with everything, including shell holders and scoops.
Also, removing stuck cases from Lee dies has been easier than other sets I've had it happen with.
Speaking of Lee.
Have been running a bunch of test with 223 doing 20-30 shot data points and across multiple bullets and powders
1. A very light crimp from the Lee factory crimp die gives me smaller groups. From 55 FMJ to 77 SMK
2. I didn’t see a change in groups between using both a RCBS or Lee sizing with the ball taken out + my 21st Century neck mandrel. Vs just throwing it through the Lee sizing die with bead all at once.
I am currently testing out the Hornady Custom Grade dies. I like that the seater has a floating collar to help align the bullet with the case before seating begins. Cost about $55.
I’ve never been a fan of bushing dies because pushing defects into the side of the neck that holds the bullet has never made sense to me. For that reason I wouldn’t recommend their Match Grade dies.
Dies last basically forever and will load tens of thousands of rounds of ammo. There are things that it makes sense to save money on— dies are NOT one of them. But the best you think you will ever need.
I bought and tried lots of different sizing and seating approaches— Lee, Forster, Wilson, RCBS, Redding. There are two approaches I’ve concluded are equally “the best”:
1) Size the neck in a Lee Collet die and then bump shoulder with a Redding Body die. Seat with a Redding mic die or a Wilson arbor die.
2) Or, Size with a honed Forster or Wilson bushing FL sizer. Seat the same as option #1.
Don’t be afraid of bushing dies, just be sure to buy a Short Actions Customs bushing and you’ll be fine. I personally have found not much utility of the bushing dies once I got my honed Forsters.
For 6.5, I had my Forster honed to .02885, which is perfect for all the brass I’ve used so far. I can use it with or without the expander. I also have a couple different size expander balls if I want to vary the ID, but I’ve found that if you expand much at all, an expander mandrel is the way to go. Doing a lot of expanding with the ball on the sizer will pull your neck off center and introduce concentricity error. I generally do not expand at all.
Honed Forsters with the expander removed are my favorite setup overall. Perfect and super consistent sizing with good neck tension.
Never understood why people reload if they don't have a particular wildcat-ish use case, volume, or interest in wringing better precision out of their rifle. Hornady ELDX shoot sub moa and dump both mule deer and elk at $2 per round. If you just hunt, I wouldn't bother. Besides, dies are the cheapest part of the equation- even at the Type S level.
I reload other cartridges, but wanted to add this to my lineup. I do want to squeeze a little performance and consistency out of my rifle. I took a mule deer last year with Hornady Precision Hunter ELDx ammo, but at 500 yards the SD is not what I am 100% happy with.
On top of that, I like Hornady’s monolithic CX bullet, but they only use the 120gr in their Outfitter line which seems a little light for elk, so I want to hand load their 130gr CX Bullet.
Gotta love the fudd down votes. So many reloaders can't even match the consistency found in factory loads, but whatever... it's america. Blow your money for no benefit and save your pennies on the most critical component.
Hornady match grade dies never let me down
Hornady Custom might be better if you prefer to keep it simple and avoid the bushing issue. For hunting ammo that will likely be more than plenty good. If you are curious about the difference and pros/cons there is a pretty good Hornady podcast on it.
Sure... A podcast by the people who sell that thing to you. I'm sure they won't be biased. My cheap as f Lee dies produce great ammo to the same level some 200$ die sets do.
Hornady Custom Grade dies are 55 bucks...
I see... I might not be qualified to comment on the matter regarding the American market. Thanks for showing me lol. In europe lee die sets are 55-70$, rcbs are like 90-100 and Forster are like... 150-200. Disregard my comment above
For bulk, full length size with Dillon trim followed by neck sizing with whatever die gives you the tension you like. For precision, you can’t beat Redding bushings IMO.
Can you clarify? Are you saying your process is full length size, trim, then neck size? Please elaborate why just the full length size is not sufficient, or why you prefer to do both.
Dillon Trim die doesn’t do neck well. Also, I clean the brass after the trim process. Wet cleaning messes with neck tension. So, I adjust neck tension after that 2nd cleaning. Sometimes I just use M die. Sometimes I just use a neck size die when doing the reloading.
I have some pretty clear witness marks on my lee seating dies, not that it seems to have any correlation to accuracy because they produce excellent ammunition. I may honestly have a neck tension issue that I haven't had a need to address.
I've had that too on my seating stem. I just put some sandpaper on a SMK and grinded it down a bit.
+1 for the Hornady dies, loaded thousands of rounds on those
Lee gets the job done on a budget. I use mostly RCBS because I like the lock rings better. Hornady and Lyman are similar to RCBS with Redding and Dillon being more expensive. There is no need for most of us to pay for the exotic competition dies.
unless you need better than 1/2 moa precision, lee dies are fine.
I love Lee dies. Especially since they have different kits for different needs, but they all come with everything, including shell holders and scoops. Also, removing stuck cases from Lee dies has been easier than other sets I've had it happen with.
Speaking of Lee. Have been running a bunch of test with 223 doing 20-30 shot data points and across multiple bullets and powders 1. A very light crimp from the Lee factory crimp die gives me smaller groups. From 55 FMJ to 77 SMK 2. I didn’t see a change in groups between using both a RCBS or Lee sizing with the ball taken out + my 21st Century neck mandrel. Vs just throwing it through the Lee sizing die with bead all at once.
I’m using Redding dies. And forester to seat
I bought my son the Hornady match grade for christmas. They work pretty good so far.
I use hornady match grade for my 6.5 tikka and have had no issues.
RCBS has been solid for me. I have the standard die set, but use the matchmaster seater die.
RCBS Matchmaster, good middle of the road cost, nice features
RCBS supreme die set: https://www.rcbs.com/dies-%26-shell-holders/rifle-dies/supreme-die-set/1001787.html Comes with case gauge and shell holder
RCBS here. But I bleed green for dies in most cases.
Use Forster FL and Forster with micrometer seater. Satisfied. Really like my Reddings too
Hunting and cheap? Lee RGB 2 die set, $30.98 USD: https://leeprecision.com/rgb-die-65-creedmoor
I am currently testing out the Hornady Custom Grade dies. I like that the seater has a floating collar to help align the bullet with the case before seating begins. Cost about $55. I’ve never been a fan of bushing dies because pushing defects into the side of the neck that holds the bullet has never made sense to me. For that reason I wouldn’t recommend their Match Grade dies.
L.E. Wilson or Whidden
RCBS Matchmaster. The bullet seating window is where it’s at
Hornady Custom dies with a micrometer attachment.
Dies last basically forever and will load tens of thousands of rounds of ammo. There are things that it makes sense to save money on— dies are NOT one of them. But the best you think you will ever need. I bought and tried lots of different sizing and seating approaches— Lee, Forster, Wilson, RCBS, Redding. There are two approaches I’ve concluded are equally “the best”: 1) Size the neck in a Lee Collet die and then bump shoulder with a Redding Body die. Seat with a Redding mic die or a Wilson arbor die. 2) Or, Size with a honed Forster or Wilson bushing FL sizer. Seat the same as option #1. Don’t be afraid of bushing dies, just be sure to buy a Short Actions Customs bushing and you’ll be fine. I personally have found not much utility of the bushing dies once I got my honed Forsters. For 6.5, I had my Forster honed to .02885, which is perfect for all the brass I’ve used so far. I can use it with or without the expander. I also have a couple different size expander balls if I want to vary the ID, but I’ve found that if you expand much at all, an expander mandrel is the way to go. Doing a lot of expanding with the ball on the sizer will pull your neck off center and introduce concentricity error. I generally do not expand at all. Honed Forsters with the expander removed are my favorite setup overall. Perfect and super consistent sizing with good neck tension.
Never understood why people reload if they don't have a particular wildcat-ish use case, volume, or interest in wringing better precision out of their rifle. Hornady ELDX shoot sub moa and dump both mule deer and elk at $2 per round. If you just hunt, I wouldn't bother. Besides, dies are the cheapest part of the equation- even at the Type S level.
I reload other cartridges, but wanted to add this to my lineup. I do want to squeeze a little performance and consistency out of my rifle. I took a mule deer last year with Hornady Precision Hunter ELDx ammo, but at 500 yards the SD is not what I am 100% happy with. On top of that, I like Hornady’s monolithic CX bullet, but they only use the 120gr in their Outfitter line which seems a little light for elk, so I want to hand load their 130gr CX Bullet.
Gotta love the fudd down votes. So many reloaders can't even match the consistency found in factory loads, but whatever... it's america. Blow your money for no benefit and save your pennies on the most critical component.