The struggle is real. Recently I had a run of bad prints on my new Saturn2 as was getting disheartened. But then I switched resin brands from anycubic to JAYO (very cheap atm but it's super low viscosity which I think helps a lot on a large build plate) and the difference was night and day.
I also stopped trying to print at 0.03 layer height after I learned that the force of trying to squeeze a resin layer that thin can break supports 'upwards'
>I also stopped trying to print at 0.03 layer height after I learned that the force of trying to squeeze a resin layer that thin can break supports 'upwards'<
While I haven't tested this exact scenario, I would think that if you lowered both the lift speed and retract speed, it should give the resin enough time to move out of the way and lower the amount of force applied to your supports. I haven't printed a whole lot yet, but most everything I've printed is in .03 and I've had great luck except for newbie errors like not putting a support in the right spot.
Damn... Make's it tempting to try again. I haven't tried my new favourite resin at 0.3.....
Although I tend to prime / wet sand / re-prime so layer lines get pretty nuked by this anyway, the most annoying place the have them is on the faces, getting into all the tight spots isn't easy! ha
If you want low viscosity resin try anycubic tough resin as it has extremely low viscosity, another trick is to mix your resins.. I add 500ml sunlu black plant based with any brand of standard grey resin and you get a dark grey that's almost as fluid as water, ok not quite that low viscosity but it's not far off!!
To avoid the "carasteophe" next time don’t try to print as many models as possible at once (losing all of them doesn’t feel nice).
Calibrate your settings with one of the available tests and print one smaller model first. If it will print fine, try something bigger.
It has nothing to do with too many pieces on the build plate I ram every inch of my build plates because I print large models and it's very very rare I get print failures.
It looks like you haven't used any dry PTFE spray on the fep before printing and you need to increase both the contact depth and contact area of the supports, it should solve the problem but if not then increase the normal exposure by .5 and try again..
I normally set all my printers to 30s bottom exposure and 2.3s normal exposure and if you mix grey resin 50/50 with transparent resin you get a grey that is slightly transparent and you can drop the exposure to 2s and still get really really strong supports..
Hope that helps but I just posted some pictures of my build plate on Instagram.. It's the biggest model/diorama I've ever attempted so far it's taken almost 8L of resin and 170hrs across 3 printers, I can't wait to fit the LEDs and start painting!.
WD-40 specialist dry PTFE spray is the best but you can use standard dry silicone spray, just spray a patch in the center of the fep and use a soft dry wipe or micro fibre cloth to gently wipe it around until it's covered..
Yes fep is a FORM of PTFE but different manufacturers use slightly different materials or formulas like the new frosted feps from anycubic behave very different to elegoo fep 2.0 and the feps for the Jupiter are a different material altogether, that's why they have a print life up to 300hrs..
I print almost 24/7 because that's what I do I print paint and sell models to order so it's important not to have an 800ml part fail as it gets expensive fast so we started using WD-40 specialist dry PTFE almost 2 years ago and it works wonders..
For a start it increases the life of the fep by double I've had my Jupiter for almost 6 months it still has its original fep after 400hs printing and because prints release easier you get less defects or layer lines from backlash or flexing of the build plate!
It's not for everyone and if your happy printing without it then that's great but at the cost Vs rewards I'd say you got nothing to lose and a lot to gain but hayho each to there own.. 🙃
nFEP & "FEP 2.0" are PFA film.
I've been printing for years, with mainly large printers. I have helped hundreds of folks get printing successfully, not a single occurrence where PTFE spray hasn't caused issues.
Me to I started FDM print 5 to 6 years ago then switched to SLA around 3 years ago, worked with Witchsong, loot studio elegoo and started a little YT channel to help people but like I said each to their own I find it helps with my 2 Jupiters my M3 Max and Saturn 2..
My feps used to last 150hrs ish and now they last 250 to 300 hrs and the only change was using WD-40 specialist dry PTFE spray on my feps, what brand did you try and have you spoken to elegoo because they say was the ones that recommended it to me!
Yeah, about Loot..... You shouldn't need to snip & sand supports off of SLA prints....
They massively over-support, instead of educating customers on calibrating their exposure times.
I'd be curious to know your lift speeds and heights, as those are what PTFE spray masks issues with.
They started doing their own supports now and I mainly print and paint models as commissions for advising so I'm not to blame but to be fair it's a difficult job in that what works for me may not work for you..
I think that's why a lot of companies over support rather than under support.. I'm just printing the last section of the Tenjin Warrior with the portal base by black forge gaming and I had to add supports to almost every piece..
I'll not be printing anything this big again it's taken 1 Jupiter 1 M3 and a Saturn 2 almost 170hrs and 7.5L of resin, I think in total it's cost me almost £250 in materials as I needed a programmable RGB strip for the portal!! 🤪
My settings are different on different machines set up for different jobs but my fastest is the Jupiter with default lift height of 3mm and I set the bottom lift speed to 90mm and normal speed to 100mm..
The M3 max is set to bottom lift 1.5mm bottom retract default 240mm so both the Jupiter and M3 it starts to lift at 1.5 and after say 2mm it speeds up so you get a really gentle pull on the fep rather than it just ripping away at full speed!
If you want to see some close ups of the print quality I'm getting on the M3 with those settings I just made a post on Instagram, I think they look better than the saturn 2 with absolutely zero defects or errors..
Bottom lift speed of 90 is too fast, that's the issue right there. 2mm @ 45mm/min, then 6mm @ 180mm/min is what I run. This is with a heated vat @29C, using Navy Grey.
Nobody said, OP shouldn’t *ever* fill the entire build plate, but it’s rather wise not to do so prior to finding the right settings for this printer/resin combo.
I have PTFE spray here but was somehow "scared" to use it. I'll try it next time but first I need to get the stuck pieces off the fep. The "push lightly from the other side" trick doesn't work so I'll use a support tree as a handle a do a full exposure over 10sec to peel it off
Calibrate your exposure times.. I recommend the Cones of Calibration part. We have a great discord community https://discord.gg/Tableflipfoundry
Yeah I guess i finally have to do that
It really should be the FIRST thing done, each time you switch resins you need different exposure times.
Oddly enough my prior prints turned out quite well
Compared to what?
Well. This
Did your ambient temperature change? Winter is starting here and I had this same problem because the temperature dropped a few degrees
Wow that's some clear resin, nice print
Was just running into some print issues and the temp of my print room was getting way too cold overnight
I was moitoring the temp. It didn't drop below 22C and this happend around 10am after a full night of printing
The struggle is real. Recently I had a run of bad prints on my new Saturn2 as was getting disheartened. But then I switched resin brands from anycubic to JAYO (very cheap atm but it's super low viscosity which I think helps a lot on a large build plate) and the difference was night and day. I also stopped trying to print at 0.03 layer height after I learned that the force of trying to squeeze a resin layer that thin can break supports 'upwards'
>I also stopped trying to print at 0.03 layer height after I learned that the force of trying to squeeze a resin layer that thin can break supports 'upwards'< While I haven't tested this exact scenario, I would think that if you lowered both the lift speed and retract speed, it should give the resin enough time to move out of the way and lower the amount of force applied to your supports. I haven't printed a whole lot yet, but most everything I've printed is in .03 and I've had great luck except for newbie errors like not putting a support in the right spot.
Damn... Make's it tempting to try again. I haven't tried my new favourite resin at 0.3..... Although I tend to prime / wet sand / re-prime so layer lines get pretty nuked by this anyway, the most annoying place the have them is on the faces, getting into all the tight spots isn't easy! ha
If you want low viscosity resin try anycubic tough resin as it has extremely low viscosity, another trick is to mix your resins.. I add 500ml sunlu black plant based with any brand of standard grey resin and you get a dark grey that's almost as fluid as water, ok not quite that low viscosity but it's not far off!!
Up the exposure time. Also, I really don't like pre supposed files sometimes, some are great and some aren't.
[удалено]
The missing part on the front was just a base that I added hastily. What broke me was the layer split
To avoid the "carasteophe" next time don’t try to print as many models as possible at once (losing all of them doesn’t feel nice). Calibrate your settings with one of the available tests and print one smaller model first. If it will print fine, try something bigger.
It's not a total loss since I'm also new to mini painting and this will be something I can practice on
It has nothing to do with too many pieces on the build plate I ram every inch of my build plates because I print large models and it's very very rare I get print failures. It looks like you haven't used any dry PTFE spray on the fep before printing and you need to increase both the contact depth and contact area of the supports, it should solve the problem but if not then increase the normal exposure by .5 and try again.. I normally set all my printers to 30s bottom exposure and 2.3s normal exposure and if you mix grey resin 50/50 with transparent resin you get a grey that is slightly transparent and you can drop the exposure to 2s and still get really really strong supports.. Hope that helps but I just posted some pictures of my build plate on Instagram.. It's the biggest model/diorama I've ever attempted so far it's taken almost 8L of resin and 170hrs across 3 printers, I can't wait to fit the LEDs and start painting!.
PTFE spray is frankly worthless, it hides settings issues. You're putting PTFE spray on PTFE film.....
Wait. I have silicone spray. Don't know if it's the same
Same principle
WD-40 specialist dry PTFE spray is the best but you can use standard dry silicone spray, just spray a patch in the center of the fep and use a soft dry wipe or micro fibre cloth to gently wipe it around until it's covered..
Yes fep is a FORM of PTFE but different manufacturers use slightly different materials or formulas like the new frosted feps from anycubic behave very different to elegoo fep 2.0 and the feps for the Jupiter are a different material altogether, that's why they have a print life up to 300hrs.. I print almost 24/7 because that's what I do I print paint and sell models to order so it's important not to have an 800ml part fail as it gets expensive fast so we started using WD-40 specialist dry PTFE almost 2 years ago and it works wonders.. For a start it increases the life of the fep by double I've had my Jupiter for almost 6 months it still has its original fep after 400hs printing and because prints release easier you get less defects or layer lines from backlash or flexing of the build plate! It's not for everyone and if your happy printing without it then that's great but at the cost Vs rewards I'd say you got nothing to lose and a lot to gain but hayho each to there own.. 🙃
nFEP & "FEP 2.0" are PFA film. I've been printing for years, with mainly large printers. I have helped hundreds of folks get printing successfully, not a single occurrence where PTFE spray hasn't caused issues.
Me to I started FDM print 5 to 6 years ago then switched to SLA around 3 years ago, worked with Witchsong, loot studio elegoo and started a little YT channel to help people but like I said each to their own I find it helps with my 2 Jupiters my M3 Max and Saturn 2.. My feps used to last 150hrs ish and now they last 250 to 300 hrs and the only change was using WD-40 specialist dry PTFE spray on my feps, what brand did you try and have you spoken to elegoo because they say was the ones that recommended it to me!
Yeah, about Loot..... You shouldn't need to snip & sand supports off of SLA prints.... They massively over-support, instead of educating customers on calibrating their exposure times. I'd be curious to know your lift speeds and heights, as those are what PTFE spray masks issues with.
They started doing their own supports now and I mainly print and paint models as commissions for advising so I'm not to blame but to be fair it's a difficult job in that what works for me may not work for you.. I think that's why a lot of companies over support rather than under support.. I'm just printing the last section of the Tenjin Warrior with the portal base by black forge gaming and I had to add supports to almost every piece.. I'll not be printing anything this big again it's taken 1 Jupiter 1 M3 and a Saturn 2 almost 170hrs and 7.5L of resin, I think in total it's cost me almost £250 in materials as I needed a programmable RGB strip for the portal!! 🤪 My settings are different on different machines set up for different jobs but my fastest is the Jupiter with default lift height of 3mm and I set the bottom lift speed to 90mm and normal speed to 100mm.. The M3 max is set to bottom lift 1.5mm bottom retract default 240mm so both the Jupiter and M3 it starts to lift at 1.5 and after say 2mm it speeds up so you get a really gentle pull on the fep rather than it just ripping away at full speed! If you want to see some close ups of the print quality I'm getting on the M3 with those settings I just made a post on Instagram, I think they look better than the saturn 2 with absolutely zero defects or errors..
Bottom lift speed of 90 is too fast, that's the issue right there. 2mm @ 45mm/min, then 6mm @ 180mm/min is what I run. This is with a heated vat @29C, using Navy Grey.
Nobody said, OP shouldn’t *ever* fill the entire build plate, but it’s rather wise not to do so prior to finding the right settings for this printer/resin combo.
I have PTFE spray here but was somehow "scared" to use it. I'll try it next time but first I need to get the stuck pieces off the fep. The "push lightly from the other side" trick doesn't work so I'll use a support tree as a handle a do a full exposure over 10sec to peel it off
Heavier supports and longer exposure should work, I used to have this problem all the time
That’s usually how nice my supports look too
It's so frustrating, cuz if you set it and leave it to print, you never know what you're gonna find until you come back hours later.
Sand your build plate with 400 grit. The whole thing - you wanna see tons of microscratches, etc, Then never worry about adhesion again