I feel like a stretch velour blazer, let alone a tailcoat, would look and wear *really* differently from a traditional tailored jacket. Those are all about structure, and all-way stretch like this has basically none of that, by design. Maybe that’s what you want, in which case ignore me. But if you were picturing something that looks like a traditional tailcoat, I would stick with a woven like velveteen. With velour you could make a tail… sweatshirt, I suppose? There are business casual structured/tailored style jackets made out of knits, but those are usually *stable* knits. Trying to start with a very drapey 4-way stretch and add structure with lining seems like a recipe for frustration to me.
When stretch velvet was a big thing in the 90s/2000s, I recall many of those dresses and tops not being lined at all. There is knit lining fabric in materials like polyester and nylon, any of which would probably have the slipperiness you’d want for the job, but it might be a good idea to buy in person or swatch to make sure you get one with approximately the same stretch qualities as your main fabric.
You know, I've never tried that. It might work!
My concern would be that the jacket would have a very hard time retaining its shape. I've made a couple of unlined women's jackets with stretch material, and they turned out fine, but I'm having a hard time visualizing a jacket with tails made out of the same. Mostly because I would want something with that level of formality to have a very sharp lapels and tails, which is really difficult to achieve with the drapiness of a knit.
There’s nothing stopping OP from using a heavy non-stretch interfacing for those parts, and possibly the cuffs. They won’t sit right next to the body, so the stretch would be less desirable there, where it won’t add to comfort.
I admit I’m not certain the best way to shape the tail interfacing, and it would almost certainly be best to blind-stitch the interfacing to the velvet before lining or it could sag.
Honestly if you want the structure of a tailcoat, I would just get regular velvet instead of stretch. And you’re gonna need a velvet board to press it cuz otherwise it will squash the pile.
Subtle structure: just shoulder, sleeve head, and chest. I’m thinking a thin scuba knit could create body- I don’t think I’ll fuse or attach them in the traditional way. I might stitch a few anchors to hold the shapes in place around the seamlines.
If you want drape, but it doesn’t necessarily have to be *stretch,* woven rayon or silk velvet might also get you where you need to go? Velour is just so the opposite of structured. I worry that it will sag off of the firmer shaping you’re contemplating.
I agree about the sagging. I made a blazer in fashion school and the fabric I chose was a little bit too soft and drapey. I had considered interfacing the whole thing but my teacher said I didn’t have to… the whole thing just drooped on the dress form and looked so sad.
It also occurs to me that the tails of a tailcoat might be inclined to curl in at the vertical edges if made in a stretch knit. I’m not sure sewn-in lining alone would stop that, either
I am making 2 silk/rayon tailcoats for a Willy Wonka costume. I got it really cheap( there were some faults in it) and it was the perfect colour, but I seriously wonder what I was thinking when I bought it.
Obviously you can’t used fused interfacing on the velvet or you permanently crush the pile.
So I have had to hand tack all the interfacing.
Then I have had to hand tack all the pieces together before machining, because the fabric creeps all over the place. That’ll teach me to make something for the school production.
knits aren't ideal for structured garments, particularly structured shoulders and necklines. it's fairly common to add twill tape, stay tape, or clear elastic to shoulder seams, waist seams, and necklines of knit garments because the weight of the fabric will pull down on the seams and tends to cause drooping and warping. if you're absolutely set on using this fabric, i'd order a roll of twill tape or stay tape and use it in the shoulders seams, the waist seam, and probably in the seams where the collar and lapels attach. i'd probably get some extra fabric so you can test out different interfacing for the collar and lapels and leave the whole thing hanging for a couple of days before you do the bottom hems.
This fabric does not take hot pressing at all. You would need study interfacing but the velvet does not tolerate the heat needed to bond the interfacing.
In my experience, will need to hand tack the interfacings in, because the velvet will creep all over the place and get baggy in some sections and tight in others if you attempt to machine sew it.
Velvet really is the trickiest fabric to sew and making a structured item like this from stretch velvet will really test your patience.
I’m making one from silk rayon velvet at the moment and it is doing my head in.
It’s taken twice as long as the pattern I’ve used before usually takes & I still have side seams, sleeves and tails to add. I’m dreading pockets.
I once made a lined waistcoat with stretch velour that I was repurposing from a skirt. I would absolutely not recommend it, and will never do it again. Luckily for me it was just for a costume and didn't need to be perfect, but my goodness was that a headache from start to finish. I don't recommend trying to do anything with it that is structured and needs a lining.
Do not try to make a tailcoat out of 4 way stretch velour. No amount of structure will make it look right and it will be awful to work on. It will look bad unless you are making a bunch of adjustments both to the pattern, overall design, and structure that I do not think you have the skill for.
This is not an insult. I am saying it based on the info you've provided and how much hidden specialty work that would be needed to do this particular weird thing.
This is also the voice of experience. I have done this many years ago. I made a pseudo structured tailcoat with a shell made of four way stretch velvet. Just get a non stretch in the same or similar blue and pile. If you put any non stretch interfacing in it and don't fuse it all together it WILL bubble away from your interfacing. It may not do it immediately. It might even wait till after the first cleaning or you've been wearing it for an hour. But it will bubble away at some point. This can look anything from just a little off to looking like you cut your collar a full inch too big and it's puddling around your neck. It will also stretch as you sew it. Which isn't a big deal when you're sewing knits to knits and doing it properly. But the moment a non stretch is introduced or even a stretch with a drastically different amount of stretch your pieces will not line up. Which will mess up every single part of the jacket that has fiddly details or a lot of sewing in one area.
Why do you want it to be made of a four way stretch? Is it because of what fabrics you're comfortable with or is it for a specific reason? Knowing that will make advice much easier to give. For instance if you have a practical reason for stretch it might be a thing that can be solved in another way.
I understand where you are coming from and appreciate your input. I’m going at this project as a fun way to explore materials ( from a sculptural perspective). Right now I’m gathering as much advice on how others would approach this material/execution. I can change the material to a non-stretch velvet at any point, but I’m choosing to not go down this route until I’ve explored different methods.
That's great actually! As long as you won't mind having to change a lot and mess around and aren't married to a specific outcome you're good. That changes a lot tbh.
What I'd suggest then is to think not so much about what is correct or how something is normally done and think about the materials and what you want them to do. So instead of thinking of it as how to make an existing standard process fit it's more about building to reach the same end goal.
Here's some stuff that might help:
4 way stretch means doing a test to find out the math for your stretch calculations is more important than normal. It's much easier to adjust 2 way on the fly than 4 way.
Anything that you want to stay structured or smooth will either need stabilization that's fused or to be lightly stretched over an internal structure. So for instance if you want a sharp lapel you either need to do something like flat lining it to a non stretch fabric and gently pulling it to make it have tension but not too much tension then sew it. Like with roll pinning for corsets or for felt puppet construction.
Felt puppet videos have a lot of weird structural engineering you can steal for this project in general.
Starching or otherwise temp stabilizing even if it's just pinning all your pieces to some tissue paper will help keep stuff from warping while you sew it. Precision is gonna be your friend for trouble shooting.
If you put in boning for any parts: the ends of any boning need to be secured no matter what type of channel you use. Even if all you did was sew down seam allowance and it ends in a hem or other seam. Boning in stretch without a reinforced cap will slide and runs damage risks.
Any long seam even if it's sewn with a zigzag or other stretch stitch will still probably drape less than the fabric around it. So if you have a two piece back on a tailcoat if you don't account for that in some way it's easy to end up looking like there's a swag between the two seams. Good if you want that. Frustrating if you don't.
Cuffs are heavy. Collars are heavy. Any seam adds weight and bulk in that location. Which will pull on the stretch. You may find yourself needing to sew things in the "wrong order" so that you have more strategic wiggle room. Like choosing to do certain seams by hand so that you can cut away excess stretch and make everything line up where you want.
It will always hang down when on a form. Try it on a person regularly. It'll tell you the pressure points from movement.
Remember that every specialty interfacing with a complex use was once made my someone who wanted to do something specific and couldn't find what they needed. You can also do that. A lot of rules are based on the assumption that you are sewing in a particular fashion. So it is fine to ignore or change things to see what happens as long as it's not a safety concern.
I hope you have fun and share when you're done or whenever you want actually! Lol
Oo thank you for all of this feedback. I’m not married to a specific outcome, just excited to play around with material. Felt puppet engineering is a new angle that I’m excited to look into, thanks for the suggestion!
I’ve broken up some of the long lines and plan to utilize the waist seam and the wearers natural curve around their hip to help lift some of the tail weight.
I look forward to sharing once I have a garment to share. :)
I made a fem Willy Wonka coat out of a two-way stretch velour, and as I recall I used a 'regular' lining material (no stretch, shiny, shreds like a mofo if you don't finish the edges properly). I can't remember if I used a fusible interfacing, or a sew-in, but I definitely remember ironing it without much issue (outside with a press cloth, inside as-is).
The 'creeping' from the velour was the worst part from what I remember, which is probably why I did it again later with a pirate coat and used almost the exact same materials because I'm apparently a masochist. 😅
I might still have my wip photos somewhere, feel free to dm me and I can try and dig em up. Lol
Dance or swim lining for the appropriate parts, tricot for the rest. Caveat that it will be really difficult to construct it like a regular coat that pulls on over the shoulders and has tails -- in reality many dance/skate costumes that look like a separate tailcoat over shirt-and-breeches/pants are a full garment that zips up the side, because you need the tension for the fit that you get from stretch velvet. If you make a garment that needs to stand away from the body out of 4-way-stretch, it needs to get interfaced with something that makes it only 2-way horizontally.
Honestly go for it. Personally I'd be extra AF and add boning or horsehair where I want structured lines and let the fabric stretch and drape between the structure. Think bridal lingerie structure vibes. I think it'll be awesome.
How much stretch does it have? I would get a mid weight satin from a designer offcuts for the interfacing, iron in stretch interfacing onto the velvet and go for it. Layer the stretch interfacing, velvet, duck or twill for the cuffs, collars and lapels.
If you fuck it up, it is ONLY FABRIC!!!
To get structure with stretch you need seams
So, a pattern that accentuates areas of the body, with shaped smaller, fitting pieces, will eliminate the need for a lining
Serge or treat all seams with an overlook stitch
I would interline it with something thin and non stretch, if the goal is to get it to keep a constructed shape like a blazer. I’ve used muslin for a similar thing where I was using a hammered satin - no stretch but it doesn’t hold a shape worth a damn. The main thing is that it must be thin, and so must your lining; anything bulky will distort the shape. I usually upgrade linings to a crepe-back or duchesse satin but for this I would probably look at the nicest possible thin satin. (Avoid poly lining material entirely, that’s my watchword! It’s crap.)
You can baste it to the velvet. I’m less familiar with ways to get things to stick but glue sticks are generally washable and if your velvet is also washable you could try using a glue stick to hold the pieces while you baste. Edge finish them as one.
For the interfacing, if you want a very constructed garment, hair canvas and pad stitching. You can get both fusible and sew-in; I’ve never used the fusible and wouldn’t risk it here. It is fairly heavy weight, so it will be super duper constructed. You could also look at tailoring resources if you want extremely constructed.
Do you have any photos of the similar thing you worked on? I love seeing how things are put together.
Thank you for cautioning me about poly lining. I have strong feelings about poly as well. Noted about using a satin.
I think I’ll avoid glues for this project and stick with hand basting. In my experience the less you pin the material the better. Using a walking foot and an open heart will keep my sanity afloat when sewing.
Thank you for your comment ☺️
Would you consider thin rigilene boning? You can sort of see how it works with a shirt/vest instead of a corset in this [youtube video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YncyZwazJ-k). It seems like it would help you shape especially the tailcoat of a velour blazer.
Okay.
years ago when I first started with stretch I used Knitwit.
Now, I made a gazillion blazers using knit fabrics.
They had a course you did in store, and it was the absolute Best for working with knits, I am in Aus just so you know, I am also old.
You can use this fabric for what you want. However, you need to get some of the fabric, like half a yard, to get the feel of what you will be working with , and to try different things.
Do this before committing yourself.
We used, and I still do, iron on, if using velour, use no steam, and you need to get a rajah cloth
[https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/648432766](https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/648432766/rajah-pressing-cloth-for-pressing-pleats?gpla=1&gao=1&&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_au_en_au_ball&utm_custom1=_k_CjwKCAjwydSzBhBOEiwAj0XN4MTrSOVyAQvI0ob3tFKeAcl-PM3PQxaQROQjp8Nyyfqk1Pqwgtik6xoC_IwQAvD_BwE_k_&utm_content=go_21084403150_163264938921_692871796000_aud-2087926510761:pla-293946777986_c__648432766enau_102845289&utm_custom2=21084403150&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwydSzBhBOEiwAj0XN4MTrSOVyAQvI0ob3tFKeAcl-PM3PQxaQROQjp8Nyyfqk1Pqwgtik6xoC_IwQAvD_BwE)
also get a fine hair brush. After you have applied the interfacing using the rajah flip the fabric quickly and used the brush to bring your pile back up.
Lining. Use the same fabric. You should keep the weight and stretch as similar as possible. You can reverse it so the pile is on the inside but I prefer to have it on the outer the finish is better.
The tails.
Well, you wont know till you try hey.
I would use interfacing, as heavy as is possible, to minimise the risk of curling. I would also apply it to the lining as well as the tails themselves, so you would have a heavier finish which should add sufficient weight to prevent curling.
Seams. surge every pattern piece before you seam. Use a long/short zigzag stitch, IYKWIM, for you actual seams and I would add a tape [https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1689052976](https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1689052976/vlieseline-flexible-seam-tape-t15-for?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=seam+tape&ref=sr_gallery-1-8&sts=1&content_source=cc9331128e822969e6a51fcb47a25bb19e9d6378%253A1689052976&search_preloaded_img=1&organic_search_click=1)
just to make sure your seams don't shift.
It isn't hard, but it is a technique that once you get it done, you will see the benefit.
Good luck.
Press on, you can do it.
You will also need to strengthen your button holes.
You will get some lining bagging over time, but good fabric care should minimise this.
[https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/186472746145](https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/186472746145)
[https://vintagestitch.com.au/products/knitwit-advanced-instruction-manual-by-vera-randall](https://vintagestitch.com.au/products/knitwit-advanced-instruction-manual-by-vera-randall)
I’m thinking that this material will not look good with functioning buttonholes. If I decide to add a closure it would be a hidden snap or the bridal kind with the continuous elastic loops.
aaah, thought of buckles?
Is it womens or mens
[https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/663371073](https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/663371073)
[https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/613170133](https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/613170133)
[https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1626208706](https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1626208706)
[https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/666865086](https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/666865086)
[https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1498587966](https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1498587966)
[https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/724103100](https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/724103100)
I would punk it or glitz it.
But I am not necessarily conventional.
Pattern is from my brain and reference images. I made the pattern based upon the wearers moulage & positioned the seams and style lines to flatter and minimize bulkiness. The size of the lapel, collar, and tail were all based upon the wearers preference and proportions. Rather than doing a double breasted front closure I’m going to do a curved one with minimal overlapping. I drew a few sketches of this, but haven’t updated it since our last fit session.
I’m planning a trip to a trim store once I lock in the lining/structural details. I’m open to everything, as long as it fits within the final color pallet. It’s for a woman who wants a masculine fit.
I think this is the very fabric my daughter bought for me to make an “overdress” for a friends RenFair costume.
The fabric she bought is in no way suitable for a tailcoat. I have made one - I used a silk brocade, no stretch - so I’m not anti using non-suiting fabric.
But a stretch velour will not work….
That is 100% the wrong fabric for the project. You can get a velvet that will have the same look, but will be much more stable and easier to work with. You’ll also need a needle board.
I make coats out of this material but they're not structured so IDK how that would work. Mine are like late 90's style dusters [like this](https://www.mercari.com/us/item/m82180815547/?sv=lg). When they're just for fashion and not for winter outerwear, I use lightweight ITY to line them and make it look polished. Generally you'd want to use a similarly behaving fabric. I only attach it around the collar, front opening, cuffs and tack it at the armpit to avoid the saggy drapes look.
Edit: Oh and I do use fusible interfacing for the shawl collar but not the fur cuffs, just put the iron on the synthetic setting and I think I used Pellon medium weight nonwoven on my last project. It at least gets the interfacing to stick on long enough for me to sew over it. I do it very gently and I always test it on scraps beforehand. Am I a monster? Maybe, but monster fur is what I work with so you know I'm insane already.
Interlock twist yarn, it's a kind of knit. [https://zelouffabrics.com/blogs/news/what-is-ity-fabric](https://zelouffabrics.com/blogs/news/what-is-ity-fabric)
I would interface all the pieces and make the fabric not stretch anymore if you absolutely have to use that fabric. I line pretty much everything with cheapish fake satins or black stretch poly/ cotton depending on what it is.
I feel like a stretch velour blazer, let alone a tailcoat, would look and wear *really* differently from a traditional tailored jacket. Those are all about structure, and all-way stretch like this has basically none of that, by design. Maybe that’s what you want, in which case ignore me. But if you were picturing something that looks like a traditional tailcoat, I would stick with a woven like velveteen. With velour you could make a tail… sweatshirt, I suppose? There are business casual structured/tailored style jackets made out of knits, but those are usually *stable* knits. Trying to start with a very drapey 4-way stretch and add structure with lining seems like a recipe for frustration to me. When stretch velvet was a big thing in the 90s/2000s, I recall many of those dresses and tops not being lined at all. There is knit lining fabric in materials like polyester and nylon, any of which would probably have the slipperiness you’d want for the job, but it might be a good idea to buy in person or swatch to make sure you get one with approximately the same stretch qualities as your main fabric.
I've worked with stretch velvet a lot and have never lined it. I think it would behave really oddly with a lining.
I haven’t worked with it, so in your opinion would stretch performance fabrics usually used for athletic wear possibly work for Op?
You know, I've never tried that. It might work! My concern would be that the jacket would have a very hard time retaining its shape. I've made a couple of unlined women's jackets with stretch material, and they turned out fine, but I'm having a hard time visualizing a jacket with tails made out of the same. Mostly because I would want something with that level of formality to have a very sharp lapels and tails, which is really difficult to achieve with the drapiness of a knit.
Yeah I see what you’re saying. It would need that structure; 3D printed lapel & tail inserts? Lol
There’s nothing stopping OP from using a heavy non-stretch interfacing for those parts, and possibly the cuffs. They won’t sit right next to the body, so the stretch would be less desirable there, where it won’t add to comfort. I admit I’m not certain the best way to shape the tail interfacing, and it would almost certainly be best to blind-stitch the interfacing to the velvet before lining or it could sag.
In general, you don’t line stretch fabrics. I very rarely do and my specialty is stretch.
Honestly if you want the structure of a tailcoat, I would just get regular velvet instead of stretch. And you’re gonna need a velvet board to press it cuz otherwise it will squash the pile.
Subtle structure: just shoulder, sleeve head, and chest. I’m thinking a thin scuba knit could create body- I don’t think I’ll fuse or attach them in the traditional way. I might stitch a few anchors to hold the shapes in place around the seamlines.
If you want drape, but it doesn’t necessarily have to be *stretch,* woven rayon or silk velvet might also get you where you need to go? Velour is just so the opposite of structured. I worry that it will sag off of the firmer shaping you’re contemplating.
I agree about the sagging. I made a blazer in fashion school and the fabric I chose was a little bit too soft and drapey. I had considered interfacing the whole thing but my teacher said I didn’t have to… the whole thing just drooped on the dress form and looked so sad.
It also occurs to me that the tails of a tailcoat might be inclined to curl in at the vertical edges if made in a stretch knit. I’m not sure sewn-in lining alone would stop that, either
I am making 2 silk/rayon tailcoats for a Willy Wonka costume. I got it really cheap( there were some faults in it) and it was the perfect colour, but I seriously wonder what I was thinking when I bought it. Obviously you can’t used fused interfacing on the velvet or you permanently crush the pile. So I have had to hand tack all the interfacing. Then I have had to hand tack all the pieces together before machining, because the fabric creeps all over the place. That’ll teach me to make something for the school production.
knits aren't ideal for structured garments, particularly structured shoulders and necklines. it's fairly common to add twill tape, stay tape, or clear elastic to shoulder seams, waist seams, and necklines of knit garments because the weight of the fabric will pull down on the seams and tends to cause drooping and warping. if you're absolutely set on using this fabric, i'd order a roll of twill tape or stay tape and use it in the shoulders seams, the waist seam, and probably in the seams where the collar and lapels attach. i'd probably get some extra fabric so you can test out different interfacing for the collar and lapels and leave the whole thing hanging for a couple of days before you do the bottom hems.
This 🔺 Velvet is very stable! Some stretch velvets are also more velvet, and less stretch- quite stable, but with more movement.
This fabric does not take hot pressing at all. You would need study interfacing but the velvet does not tolerate the heat needed to bond the interfacing.
I’m thinking this would be the case. Non-fusible interfacing might be my safest bet.
In my experience, will need to hand tack the interfacings in, because the velvet will creep all over the place and get baggy in some sections and tight in others if you attempt to machine sew it. Velvet really is the trickiest fabric to sew and making a structured item like this from stretch velvet will really test your patience. I’m making one from silk rayon velvet at the moment and it is doing my head in. It’s taken twice as long as the pattern I’ve used before usually takes & I still have side seams, sleeves and tails to add. I’m dreading pockets.
Do not do it…
:)
Don’t do it Do. Not. I’ve made a stretch tailcoat and it does not end well. I sew professionally. Get yourself a woven velvet
I once made a lined waistcoat with stretch velour that I was repurposing from a skirt. I would absolutely not recommend it, and will never do it again. Luckily for me it was just for a costume and didn't need to be perfect, but my goodness was that a headache from start to finish. I don't recommend trying to do anything with it that is structured and needs a lining.
Do not try to make a tailcoat out of 4 way stretch velour. No amount of structure will make it look right and it will be awful to work on. It will look bad unless you are making a bunch of adjustments both to the pattern, overall design, and structure that I do not think you have the skill for. This is not an insult. I am saying it based on the info you've provided and how much hidden specialty work that would be needed to do this particular weird thing. This is also the voice of experience. I have done this many years ago. I made a pseudo structured tailcoat with a shell made of four way stretch velvet. Just get a non stretch in the same or similar blue and pile. If you put any non stretch interfacing in it and don't fuse it all together it WILL bubble away from your interfacing. It may not do it immediately. It might even wait till after the first cleaning or you've been wearing it for an hour. But it will bubble away at some point. This can look anything from just a little off to looking like you cut your collar a full inch too big and it's puddling around your neck. It will also stretch as you sew it. Which isn't a big deal when you're sewing knits to knits and doing it properly. But the moment a non stretch is introduced or even a stretch with a drastically different amount of stretch your pieces will not line up. Which will mess up every single part of the jacket that has fiddly details or a lot of sewing in one area. Why do you want it to be made of a four way stretch? Is it because of what fabrics you're comfortable with or is it for a specific reason? Knowing that will make advice much easier to give. For instance if you have a practical reason for stretch it might be a thing that can be solved in another way.
I understand where you are coming from and appreciate your input. I’m going at this project as a fun way to explore materials ( from a sculptural perspective). Right now I’m gathering as much advice on how others would approach this material/execution. I can change the material to a non-stretch velvet at any point, but I’m choosing to not go down this route until I’ve explored different methods.
That's great actually! As long as you won't mind having to change a lot and mess around and aren't married to a specific outcome you're good. That changes a lot tbh. What I'd suggest then is to think not so much about what is correct or how something is normally done and think about the materials and what you want them to do. So instead of thinking of it as how to make an existing standard process fit it's more about building to reach the same end goal. Here's some stuff that might help: 4 way stretch means doing a test to find out the math for your stretch calculations is more important than normal. It's much easier to adjust 2 way on the fly than 4 way. Anything that you want to stay structured or smooth will either need stabilization that's fused or to be lightly stretched over an internal structure. So for instance if you want a sharp lapel you either need to do something like flat lining it to a non stretch fabric and gently pulling it to make it have tension but not too much tension then sew it. Like with roll pinning for corsets or for felt puppet construction. Felt puppet videos have a lot of weird structural engineering you can steal for this project in general. Starching or otherwise temp stabilizing even if it's just pinning all your pieces to some tissue paper will help keep stuff from warping while you sew it. Precision is gonna be your friend for trouble shooting. If you put in boning for any parts: the ends of any boning need to be secured no matter what type of channel you use. Even if all you did was sew down seam allowance and it ends in a hem or other seam. Boning in stretch without a reinforced cap will slide and runs damage risks. Any long seam even if it's sewn with a zigzag or other stretch stitch will still probably drape less than the fabric around it. So if you have a two piece back on a tailcoat if you don't account for that in some way it's easy to end up looking like there's a swag between the two seams. Good if you want that. Frustrating if you don't. Cuffs are heavy. Collars are heavy. Any seam adds weight and bulk in that location. Which will pull on the stretch. You may find yourself needing to sew things in the "wrong order" so that you have more strategic wiggle room. Like choosing to do certain seams by hand so that you can cut away excess stretch and make everything line up where you want. It will always hang down when on a form. Try it on a person regularly. It'll tell you the pressure points from movement. Remember that every specialty interfacing with a complex use was once made my someone who wanted to do something specific and couldn't find what they needed. You can also do that. A lot of rules are based on the assumption that you are sewing in a particular fashion. So it is fine to ignore or change things to see what happens as long as it's not a safety concern. I hope you have fun and share when you're done or whenever you want actually! Lol
Oo thank you for all of this feedback. I’m not married to a specific outcome, just excited to play around with material. Felt puppet engineering is a new angle that I’m excited to look into, thanks for the suggestion! I’ve broken up some of the long lines and plan to utilize the waist seam and the wearers natural curve around their hip to help lift some of the tail weight. I look forward to sharing once I have a garment to share. :)
I made a fem Willy Wonka coat out of a two-way stretch velour, and as I recall I used a 'regular' lining material (no stretch, shiny, shreds like a mofo if you don't finish the edges properly). I can't remember if I used a fusible interfacing, or a sew-in, but I definitely remember ironing it without much issue (outside with a press cloth, inside as-is). The 'creeping' from the velour was the worst part from what I remember, which is probably why I did it again later with a pirate coat and used almost the exact same materials because I'm apparently a masochist. 😅 I might still have my wip photos somewhere, feel free to dm me and I can try and dig em up. Lol
I recommend not doing it. I did a project like this for my husbands Halloween costume and it was a nightmare. Can you find a non stretch velvet
Dance or swim lining for the appropriate parts, tricot for the rest. Caveat that it will be really difficult to construct it like a regular coat that pulls on over the shoulders and has tails -- in reality many dance/skate costumes that look like a separate tailcoat over shirt-and-breeches/pants are a full garment that zips up the side, because you need the tension for the fit that you get from stretch velvet. If you make a garment that needs to stand away from the body out of 4-way-stretch, it needs to get interfaced with something that makes it only 2-way horizontally.
For a blazer I’d actually fuse it something woven and treat it that way.
Adding on to say fusing velvet will crush the pile without a velvet board
I’ve never sewn actual velvet - is this poly velour more forgiving?
It still has a pile. Pressing will leave marks unless you use a needle board
I’m going to do tests to see how it washes and takes heat/pressing. I’m new to velour, but experienced with velvet.
Honestly go for it. Personally I'd be extra AF and add boning or horsehair where I want structured lines and let the fabric stretch and drape between the structure. Think bridal lingerie structure vibes. I think it'll be awesome.
How much stretch does it have? I would get a mid weight satin from a designer offcuts for the interfacing, iron in stretch interfacing onto the velvet and go for it. Layer the stretch interfacing, velvet, duck or twill for the cuffs, collars and lapels. If you fuck it up, it is ONLY FABRIC!!!
To get structure with stretch you need seams So, a pattern that accentuates areas of the body, with shaped smaller, fitting pieces, will eliminate the need for a lining Serge or treat all seams with an overlook stitch
I would interline it with something thin and non stretch, if the goal is to get it to keep a constructed shape like a blazer. I’ve used muslin for a similar thing where I was using a hammered satin - no stretch but it doesn’t hold a shape worth a damn. The main thing is that it must be thin, and so must your lining; anything bulky will distort the shape. I usually upgrade linings to a crepe-back or duchesse satin but for this I would probably look at the nicest possible thin satin. (Avoid poly lining material entirely, that’s my watchword! It’s crap.) You can baste it to the velvet. I’m less familiar with ways to get things to stick but glue sticks are generally washable and if your velvet is also washable you could try using a glue stick to hold the pieces while you baste. Edge finish them as one. For the interfacing, if you want a very constructed garment, hair canvas and pad stitching. You can get both fusible and sew-in; I’ve never used the fusible and wouldn’t risk it here. It is fairly heavy weight, so it will be super duper constructed. You could also look at tailoring resources if you want extremely constructed.
Do you have any photos of the similar thing you worked on? I love seeing how things are put together. Thank you for cautioning me about poly lining. I have strong feelings about poly as well. Noted about using a satin. I think I’ll avoid glues for this project and stick with hand basting. In my experience the less you pin the material the better. Using a walking foot and an open heart will keep my sanity afloat when sewing. Thank you for your comment ☺️
Would you consider thin rigilene boning? You can sort of see how it works with a shirt/vest instead of a corset in this [youtube video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YncyZwazJ-k). It seems like it would help you shape especially the tailcoat of a velour blazer.
Cool! There might be a use for boning. I’m going to save this video. Thank you!
Y'all are so talented! Soaking up this info but won't remember any of it.
Okay. years ago when I first started with stretch I used Knitwit. Now, I made a gazillion blazers using knit fabrics. They had a course you did in store, and it was the absolute Best for working with knits, I am in Aus just so you know, I am also old. You can use this fabric for what you want. However, you need to get some of the fabric, like half a yard, to get the feel of what you will be working with , and to try different things. Do this before committing yourself. We used, and I still do, iron on, if using velour, use no steam, and you need to get a rajah cloth [https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/648432766](https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/648432766/rajah-pressing-cloth-for-pressing-pleats?gpla=1&gao=1&&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_au_en_au_ball&utm_custom1=_k_CjwKCAjwydSzBhBOEiwAj0XN4MTrSOVyAQvI0ob3tFKeAcl-PM3PQxaQROQjp8Nyyfqk1Pqwgtik6xoC_IwQAvD_BwE_k_&utm_content=go_21084403150_163264938921_692871796000_aud-2087926510761:pla-293946777986_c__648432766enau_102845289&utm_custom2=21084403150&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwydSzBhBOEiwAj0XN4MTrSOVyAQvI0ob3tFKeAcl-PM3PQxaQROQjp8Nyyfqk1Pqwgtik6xoC_IwQAvD_BwE) also get a fine hair brush. After you have applied the interfacing using the rajah flip the fabric quickly and used the brush to bring your pile back up. Lining. Use the same fabric. You should keep the weight and stretch as similar as possible. You can reverse it so the pile is on the inside but I prefer to have it on the outer the finish is better. The tails. Well, you wont know till you try hey. I would use interfacing, as heavy as is possible, to minimise the risk of curling. I would also apply it to the lining as well as the tails themselves, so you would have a heavier finish which should add sufficient weight to prevent curling. Seams. surge every pattern piece before you seam. Use a long/short zigzag stitch, IYKWIM, for you actual seams and I would add a tape [https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1689052976](https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1689052976/vlieseline-flexible-seam-tape-t15-for?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=seam+tape&ref=sr_gallery-1-8&sts=1&content_source=cc9331128e822969e6a51fcb47a25bb19e9d6378%253A1689052976&search_preloaded_img=1&organic_search_click=1) just to make sure your seams don't shift. It isn't hard, but it is a technique that once you get it done, you will see the benefit. Good luck. Press on, you can do it.
I really appreciate your comment, this was the expertise I was looking for. Thank you 😊
You will also need to strengthen your button holes. You will get some lining bagging over time, but good fabric care should minimise this. [https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/186472746145](https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/186472746145) [https://vintagestitch.com.au/products/knitwit-advanced-instruction-manual-by-vera-randall](https://vintagestitch.com.au/products/knitwit-advanced-instruction-manual-by-vera-randall)
I’m thinking that this material will not look good with functioning buttonholes. If I decide to add a closure it would be a hidden snap or the bridal kind with the continuous elastic loops.
aaah, thought of buckles? Is it womens or mens [https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/663371073](https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/663371073) [https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/613170133](https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/613170133) [https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1626208706](https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1626208706) [https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/666865086](https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/666865086) [https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1498587966](https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1498587966) [https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/724103100](https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/724103100) I would punk it or glitz it. But I am not necessarily conventional.
Do you have a picture of the pattern or is coming from your brain?
Pattern is from my brain and reference images. I made the pattern based upon the wearers moulage & positioned the seams and style lines to flatter and minimize bulkiness. The size of the lapel, collar, and tail were all based upon the wearers preference and proportions. Rather than doing a double breasted front closure I’m going to do a curved one with minimal overlapping. I drew a few sketches of this, but haven’t updated it since our last fit session.
I’m planning a trip to a trim store once I lock in the lining/structural details. I’m open to everything, as long as it fits within the final color pallet. It’s for a woman who wants a masculine fit.
I think this is the very fabric my daughter bought for me to make an “overdress” for a friends RenFair costume. The fabric she bought is in no way suitable for a tailcoat. I have made one - I used a silk brocade, no stretch - so I’m not anti using non-suiting fabric. But a stretch velour will not work….
That is 100% the wrong fabric for the project. You can get a velvet that will have the same look, but will be much more stable and easier to work with. You’ll also need a needle board.
Stretch knit.
I make coats out of this material but they're not structured so IDK how that would work. Mine are like late 90's style dusters [like this](https://www.mercari.com/us/item/m82180815547/?sv=lg). When they're just for fashion and not for winter outerwear, I use lightweight ITY to line them and make it look polished. Generally you'd want to use a similarly behaving fabric. I only attach it around the collar, front opening, cuffs and tack it at the armpit to avoid the saggy drapes look. Edit: Oh and I do use fusible interfacing for the shawl collar but not the fur cuffs, just put the iron on the synthetic setting and I think I used Pellon medium weight nonwoven on my last project. It at least gets the interfacing to stick on long enough for me to sew over it. I do it very gently and I always test it on scraps beforehand. Am I a monster? Maybe, but monster fur is what I work with so you know I'm insane already.
Oh this is great! What does “ITY” stand for?
Interlock twist yarn, it's a kind of knit. [https://zelouffabrics.com/blogs/news/what-is-ity-fabric](https://zelouffabrics.com/blogs/news/what-is-ity-fabric)
I would interface all the pieces and make the fabric not stretch anymore if you absolutely have to use that fabric. I line pretty much everything with cheapish fake satins or black stretch poly/ cotton depending on what it is.