Lots of great advice here. I’ll just throw in that these types of jobs can be really prone to accidents. You set up a jig and make a ton of repetitive cuts and get lazy/distracted and that’s how finger sausage gets made.
This is how I would do it too. Basically a modified version of a wedgie sled: https://indianacountywoodturners.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/2015.11.JNL_.CW-WedgieSled.pdf
Never forget you have a lower bandsaw guard.... and arteries in your fingers can bleed you out... one finger tip,.... trip to the ER 2 hours 5 measly stitches... and one hour sessions with a tourniquet, Lost over 2 pints .1
Not trying to be contentious here, but it's virtually impossible\* to bleed out from a finger cut, (or complete amputation). In four years as paramedic, I used a tourniquet once! That was a messy gunshot wound with massive arterial bleeds, NOT a finger bleed. Just don't want people to get nervous when they get a nasty cut or saw injury. It's really not a real medical worry.
\*"Virtually impossible" because, with a hemophiliac... well, maybe.
Absolute truth. This is why I'm missing part of my right thumb. Made a jig for my crosscut sled on my table saw, had about 500 cuts to make. Was around 450ish when my reach-for-the-piece got lazy, and bumped the blade. Shouldhada sawstop, lol.
Absolutely! That’s why I can here to get some options on how to do this. Most dangerous thing you can do in a woodshop is the cut you have to make a bunch of times.
I think the bandsaw might be the best tool for the job with the right jig, but luckily I’ve got a saw stop so leaning towards using that to be extra safe. I prefer having all my fingers!
I ran my hand through the router table a week ago doing exactly this. I was about an hour in to 1/16” roundovers and got lazy/distracted. Such a small cut felt relatively safe to do without too much safety set up.
Power feeder, featherboards, etc going forward for even the smallest cuts.
Stay safe!
I would make a trough to put numerous pieces into and run it through the table saw with the blade set at 24 degrees from vertical and just high enough to cut through the pieces. Use the table saw fence to run the stack through with the work pieces on the bottom, upside down from shown.
https://preview.redd.it/2wut5tmd196d1.jpeg?width=729&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4963cbd6b138d0fe58d8abb46ded3385e355631b
Not so sure this is a great idea. I would be worried about cut pieces getting pinched in the blade and then sending the whole package back to you at a high rate of speed.
I tried it, setup was not too precise but it seemed to work fine. One improvement might be to run a piece of tape across all of the pieces to keep them together until out of the saw.
https://preview.redd.it/yqf45kvzdc6d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a604e70890c0c01395e1e74c7206334e2a847030
I agree. While this \*could\* work well and cause no issues, the risk is high. Between inconsistencies in the fence (face not 100% flat, flex while pushing against it), blade runout, and human error, there's a lot of ways this could quickly end up catching something and throwing the whole thing backward, or possibly launching small pieces upward out of the trough at you.
You probably wouldn't rip or crosscut something pinched between two table saw fences...this isn't much different in terms of the physics involved.
That said, you could probably make this safer by leaving the side away from the fence open so that offcuts can move out of the way, and then use a sacrificial push block to press the pieces down and toward the fence on the fence side of the blade. I would probably take a 2x4 and cut it so there's a heel that can push from the back, and a notch to allow it to go over the back fence of the jig and allow the rest of the 2x4 to push down on the pieces. You could stick a handle on that to keep your hands farther from the blade (or make it out of a 2x6 so you have extra wood to include the handle in the design).
Did something like this recently to run a dado down the middle of a bunch of half circle pieces. Stacked them up against a fence and clamped the whole assembly in two places. i used the clamps as handles and ran the whole thing along my standard table saw fence. worked great.
Obviously here it’s a through cut. I guess my point was - clamp it. make it a ridgid piece.
For sake of accuracy I’d do them one at a time.
What ever the project is and needing 1000 needs the accuracy and should have the price to the point their is no reason to rely on the blade or have a safety issue.
A sled jig for 1 piece at a time is the correct answer here. Just make sure that you build it with shields for your hands and fingers to rest on that are away from the blade. That many repetitive cuts will place you in auto-pilot and you can lose track of where your fingers are until you cut them off.
It’s really not ideal that you have to make so many repetitive cuts on such a small starting piece. That’s exactly the kind of chore that leads to complacency and sticking a hand in the blade.
I guess table saw sled is probably safest way to do that a ton of times.
A miter gauge on a band saw also comes to mind, since it won’t fling the off cut.
Was my thought exactly. One of the dumbest things I ever did with a miter saw started like this. No damage beyond the shock of it, but still.
Table saw sled sounds the safest to me as well but I see no solution to the tedium.
Yeah I’m thinking the miter gauge on the bandsaw is probably the safest and quickest. I can probably whip up a jig that holds 10 or so pieces in place at a time.
Idk how else one could go about it.. basically no matter how you go about it you’re going to end up with hundreds of repeat cuts.
If your bandsaw table can be tilted to 24 degrees, you could maybe clamp 10 or so together at a time and run it along the fence. Once you have that setup, it would go pretty fast. With the clamp on the _outside_ of the blade (not between blade and fence), it even gives you a little bit extra to hang onto.
Came here to say this. My table tilts, and it's got a sturdy fence. Zip them through a handful (3 or 4) at a time, letting the waste pieces fall on the fence, to be pushed into a properly positioned 5 gallon bucket.
A mitre saw and some quick nailed together "mold" to hold the piece in position.
5 secs per piece, 5 min rest and material handling after every 50 pieces. About three hours.
Re-do.
Rip the bevel in a board as wide as you want the length to be (2 ¼"). Rip the next square the same width.
Cut them both down to several pieces and then cut to width (¾") doing several at the same time (TS sled, sliding chop saw, etc).
Rinse and repeat.
Edit for dimensions
Makes a great deal of sense. Always try to do the difficult or angled cut first, and Make sure the final fiddly little steps are straightforward and easy
Came here to say this, wanted to see if anyone else posted it. You want to do as much of the work as possible on as large of a piece as possible. A perfect example is the frames I'm making for my beehives. The most complex piece has 13 cuts, not including it's rip to final dimension. I make as many of these cuts as I can on a block of wood (a true 2x4) cut to length. Then rip that large block into little pieces. Not only have I keep my fingers safe and well clear, I also greatly reduce the time it takes. I can make most of these cuts on what will end up being four or more pieces. Rather than 13 cuts times x amount of pieces.
The best way to do this is to start with a very large piece and cut down from the large piece until it gets unsafe or the piece is unsupported.
——————————-
Take this and cut it like this
———— — — — —
As you cut it, you will have a long and safe work piece that keeps your hands *away from blades.*
When it gets short enough that your down to your last pieces, *these pieces are scrap*. Don’t try to optimize every last piece unless you have a jig to keep your hands away from the blades. Do not cut small pieces — on big repetitive jobs this is how people lose their fingers.
If you use a miter saw, make the cut and keep the blade down until it stops spinning.
Wear eye protection.
Do these three simple things and you’ll be a LOT safer than most people do this. Most people envision cutting small pieces, but really the way to think of this job is cutting the end off of long supportable pieces utilizing stops on a miter saw. It’s easy and safe if you do it.
You can batch the jobs with pieces, and just work your way through them.
——-/
——-/
——-/
And then cut three pieces from those.
—— | —/
—— | —/
—— | —/
Then cut your angle from the pieces remaining. Then straight cut from those pieces.
—- \ \—|
It gives you the longest working pieces for the longest time and is the safest cut pattern.
https://preview.redd.it/q0loo6y1l96d1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=33ecd4d3c88eda2c832c25cf3eb8e1b87caa4ecf
180 pieces Make a jig my friend and just get in the zone.
Cut a strip of wood on your table saw with a 24ish degree angle that's as wide as you need the pieces. Turn the blade back to 90 and then cut the strip into 100 pieces. This is a common method used in segmented turnings
Do you have a tracksaw? Cut a single piece at a 66° angle lengthwise, then line about 50 or so up on top of that, so they are all at a 24° angle to the cut line. Zip, 100 of them at a time, and you get to keep your thumbs.
I would get these done by someone who has the automation to do it. Repetitive tasks like this get dangerous because you get lazy and bored. That or I’d do them 100 at a time with a miter saw, and then go do something else to change my mind. It should take about between 10 and 20 seconds per piece. So factor in about 6 hours of work to get it all done on the long side. Plus breaks. That’s a whole day of just cutting those pieces.
If by "wall panel things" you are talking about the wood wall art that is painted/stained various colors to make an artistic pattern, then...
Long ago I looked into this and you can buy bags and bags of those on amazon for cheaper than it cost to go to HD or L and buy the wood. Not to mention they are already pre-cut. No clue on the quality as I ended up not following through with the project.
YMMV
I saw your answer and realized that I am not the only genius on Reddit Of Course This was the first thing that came to mind talk to Mr. Miyagi and focus Daniel Son
Make a jig with a clamp and I would do it on a radial arm saw, but I’m old school. Table saw would work with the right jig as well but safety first. No janky jigs.
Or a radial arm saw with the motor tilted 24 degrees. Either one pass for all or a stop block and multiple cuts.
Or a sled on a table saw. The RAS is potentially a bit more precise; the sled may have a bit of play, the RAS rollers (properly maintained) have none. (This assumes the operator knows not to apply lateral forces to the saw while cutting to avoid flexing the arm.)
I have never seen or used an RAS that was an accurate enough for what I assume this project is (a glue up for a turned bowl).
On paper I love an RAS but in real life they have so much more play than modern sliding miter saws.
I would be over the moon with a kapex accurate RAS for my shop.
Do you need that end grain look? Also the proportions on the Etsy listing seem to be 1.5” squares, probably ripped 2x4s. If you didn’t mind long grain, I’d rip a bevel on a 3/4” or 8/4 poplar board and then crosscut on a sled with a stop. Seems like I’d alternate the bevel angle and width of the rip to vary height to match the etsy listing , but height wouldn’t matter because you can glue and brad the blocks to each other rather than a backing board, provided that height and width are equal.
They need to be the end grain to get the depth I’m going for. Going for a “pixelated” sunset and mountain look. I don’t think it would look as good with side or face grain… albeit that would be much easier!
Make a cross cut sled, with a box top which holds 10, lift lid load ten close lid and push. (Obviously only works on the assumption that all pieces are same size or inside a tolerance.) I also wouldn't pull it back towards yourself until the box is emptied.
I’m not an expert, but I would do this:
1. Mill all long material to final square dimensions - a bunch of long 3/4” sticks
2. Miter saw or crosscut table saw sled with stop block and blade on the angle you want - cut to *double* your final desired length
3. Crosscut table saw sled to split the double long pieces in half and give you your 90s for the base.
You can cut several pieces at once with some clever holding.
Miter saw is out of contention for this one.. too small to do safely and also I’d be flinging them all over the shop and finding pieces for the next 10 years
Table saw sled, woodworkers tape / 2 pieces of thin scrap wood across the top and bottom to hold a few boards together horizontally then repetitive cuts
Plain your board to thickness, Rip these on a table saw using a sled with a good fence and blade. Repeat step 1 on cut sides tor precision. Then two miter saw with a stop block and a good quality blade for consistency. If you only want one pointy end otherwise use two miter saws one for flat end and then one for pointy don’t cut tiny pieces
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1023729892/wood-wall-art-wood-sound-diffuser?gpla=1&gao=1&&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_us_a-home_and_living-home_decor-wall_decor-wall_hangings-other&utm_custom1=_k_CjwKCAjwjqWzBhAqEiwAQmtgT3fpWblCFz7xrAZ8kGgQ-MbGYdGzJ4r8ZcYt58UzSCBs5hCZMMrFKBoCS5YQAvD_BwE_k_&utm_content=go_12559942249_120251210540_506897851377_pla-305562556206_m__1023729892_539167528&utm_custom2=12559942249&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADtcfRK0EbLEC5LMXvp6gP_jtXKig&gclid=CjwKCAjwjqWzBhAqEiwAQmtgT3fpWblCFz7xrAZ8kGgQ-MbGYdGzJ4r8ZcYt58UzSCBs5hCZMMrFKBoCS5YQAvD_BwE
Making something similar to this
I’ve done some in the past with larger pieces, it’s pretty easy, albeit time consuming.
I may have bitten off more than I can chew with this one but it’ll be cool if I make it work!
All the pieces are one solid color.
What i do at least is get a bunch of samples from the paint people and then just mix to get a close gradient. Watering down the paint ever so slightly helps to show the grain
I don’t think the miter saw is the right tool for this job! There isn’t enough to hold onto and making that small cut 1000 times is a recipe for disaster. The finished pieces are just over 1”
A stop block and a million dollar stick will make that job safe and a lot faster than trying to get an angular cut with a flat slope out of an hourglass shaped beam
I only have a circular saw. I would make a jig by attaching an angle “fence” to the underside of my crosscut jig.
And create a worksurface jig that I can set it on, with a matching angle for the other side of the workpiece and supports to keep the sawplate supported.
Then I’d tuck the piece under my crosscut jig, nestling into the angle, and set it on the worksurface, and cut.
Here are some links about cutting pieces too small for a circular saw.
https://youtu.be/kpNGfAtqpWI
https://imgur.com/gallery/VwAsMJ9
If I had a crosscut sled for a table saw, I’d bead-nail some corner guides to the sled to hold the pieces in exactly the right spot.
Make a holding jig and use a Japanese hand saw. It’s precise, fast, and the least likely way I can think of to make multiple tedious cuts without the inevitable distraction risking a finger.
(in reverse order of preference)
1) Miter saw set to 24 degrees with a stop set up. Possibly just a block held to the fence with a clamp.
2) table saw sled. I'd use the sled rather than the miter that comes with the table because it lets me support much closer to the blade and set up a stop.
3) set up the miter guide and hand one of my young adult offspring the back saw. Any chance I get to teach my kids how to make something, I teach them the manual method first. Only after they master the fundamental concepts do I let them use the power tools. Operating a table saw is NOT the time for a beginner to be figuring out where to put their feet, figuring out if they are doing the job right etc.
I have a chronic pain and fatigue condition. Economy of motion when doing repetitive stuff is super important. For me, sliding a well made sled on the table saw with both arms and back is less strenuous than pulling down the miter saw against its spring. And having one or more of my boys do most of it is easier still.
I think it’d be easier to stay safe with a table saw as opposed to a miter saw with how small they are.
Unfortunately I don’t have any offspring to pawn the task of onto… but I’ll mention it to my gf and see what she thinks about helping me out there 😂
[this](https://www.etsy.com/listing/1023729892/wood-wall-art-wood-sound-diffuser?gpla=1&gao=1&&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_us_a-home_and_living-home_decor-wall_decor-wall_hangings-other&utm_custom1=_k_CjwKCAjwjqWzBhAqEiwAQmtgT3fpWblCFz7xrAZ8kGgQ-MbGYdGzJ4r8ZcYt58UzSCBs5hCZMMrFKBoCS5YQAvD_BwE_k_&utm_content=go_12559942249_120251210540_506897851377_pla-305562556206_m__1023729892_539167528&utm_custom2=12559942249&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADtcfRK0EbLEC5LMXvp6gP_jtXKig&gclid=CjwKCAjwjqWzBhAqEiwAQmtgT3fpWblCFz7xrAZ8kGgQ-MbGYdGzJ4r8ZcYt58UzSCBs5hCZMMrFKBoCS5YQAvD_BwE) is kind of the effect I’m going for. I’m using smaller pieces though so I can make a landscape type design in the piece. It’ll either be really cool or a total waste of time…. We shall see!
Looks like they're variable in angle and direction on the Etsy listing. I'd do 10 with a mitre saw and end stop, change the angles on the saw and do another 10; random enough.
I can't think of a way I'd be comfortable with to cut more than one at a time though.
Edit: you'll need two cuts, which I hadn't thought of. I'd cut 500 square ones twice the length you need, then cut each length in half at an angle.
I'd also stop after 20-100 and see how it's looking.
Nice effect, hope it works for you!
It’s a wood mosaic! I love wood! I will drink coffee for you while you’re doing your project. Take lots of breaks, like one every 20 minutes to move you’re body position
Get Mikey to do it… “Hey Mikey!” 😂 or you can get Jiggy with it! 😂
Tho I wondering did you cut these and then decide or this scraps…? Been easier to rip the 24 degree then choppy chop
I would use a combination of table saw and miter saw. Set one up for the 90 deg cut and the other for the 24ish deg cut. First cut on a board is the 24 then the second is the 90 again for the second piece. Use stop blocks to control length.
This assumes a 90 on one side and the 24 on the other side of the piece.
Edit sure to premature send.
This is my little cross cut sled
https://preview.redd.it/gp6wt46s7c6d1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e46a23a6c8694b5ebc52ce5568214e75bf58f631
The second fence is real important to guard the blade as the sled goes all the way forward. The piece behind the clamp guards the blade while switching work pieces. Dropping a chunk of wood on a spinning blade isn't good.
I would have cut the funny angle *first* when I had long, safe to control pieces. *Then* do the 90⁰ cuts with the small pieces.
But since you're here now, if you've got a band saw that you can tilt at the correct angle, or a miter saw, set that up with stop blocks, fences, or a jig and go to town. Just take breaks so you don't zone out and remove something you can't reattach.
Others are wrong when they say you should have cut angles first, then straight. It doesn't matter. There's still an easy way.
Put a fence on a (hopefully deep) crosscut sled as a jig. Butt as many blocks up against the fence as you can fit, as if you're trying to chop them all at the same length. Get the angle by tilting your table saw blade. Figure out some way of holding the blocks down reasonably well on the sled (maybe a bar clamp of the whole stack against the head board of the sled is enough).
Big jig to clamp all in a line, table saw angled at 24 degrees, first cut down the middle, then back to straight 90 degree cut to trim the backs off both halves to make sure they all the same.
Have a nice long fence on the table saw and a stick to push the end of the jig through.
À thousand ? Neat project I hope!
As others say, make a jig for sure, that's a lot of cuts. The prep time will assure accuracy, and safety so long as you don't get careless with all the repetetive motion.
Teflon tape on the slides you cut to fit in the tracks on the table saw helps a lot and is cheap. Or you can buy slides for the jig
Would a track saw cut that angle? I’m thinking lining them up side by side and double sided tape them to the table. Do as many as you can with your track length
I guess my text didn't go thru?
I just did a couple hundred of these about a month ago. I did 6 sticks at once on the miter saw. I had an angled stop set up for the angled cuts (to keep them at length) and another additional piece to measure out the straight pieces. Worst part is having to switch the miter angle back and forth each cut, but it came out really consistent for me. I probably didn't do the clearest job of explaining but if you'd like I can take some pics of what I'm talking about when I go home
Either the table saw or bandsaw because you can cut slide over cut and push the finished pieces with the next cut. A miter saw could do the same thing but then you have to stop the saw between each cut and remove the next piece.
I made one myself of about 500. I cut them to about 5” and then cut them in half using my miter gauge in half at 30 degrees or so. The more tedious part was sanding all of them to then paint. For that I chucked my random orbital in my wood vice and did them one at a time. I watched most of a baseball season sanding those things. Painting I made a lazy Susan with chicken wire for them to stand on and sprayed them all. The glue up I’d suggest just laying out a few rows at a time. Trying to do the entire field I ended up with the end it starting to dry and was hard getting it to come in to square. I have some photos of my process if you’re interested.
Sanding is the next, more tedious part of the process. I am thinking about putting some sand and all the pieces in a big tumbler and letting it go to work. I saw a “how it’s made” about golf tees and that’s exactly how they do thousands at a time. I figure it’ll work for this since it’s 1)being painted and 2) they are all hard maple so only really need it for tear out.
I take no responsibility for this, your fingers, blood, or life, but I also think [iPeg2](https://www.reddit.com/user/iPeg2/) has the easiest and safest solution. Also (just spitballing here), could it be improved by stacking two on top of each other?
Why not at least cut the 24 degrees on a wide board first and then cut the boards into the smaller pieces? Way easier to make less mistakes and less working with small parts
Others have the correct concern of complacency. To try avoid that I would try to find a way to do like 10/20 at a time. That way the time between cuts can be a rest and tear down and set up and you can concentrate on less total cuts.
Jigs will be your friend for this number of pieces.
Do you need the cut off from the opposite end or is it gonna be scrap?
Jig that holds 20 down, run through bandsaw.
Base piece to hold at angle and a bar over top to hold down one half. Left side hanging free, tabs on bottom to run in miter slot. Run through and let the offcuts fall, release the bunch and reload.
I feel the bandsaw would be less impactful for complacency. Give yourself two handholds on the jig so you keep your fingers in a safe spot.
Its kinda late now but if it was possible the easier solution would of been math + wood waste and cutting the angle first then turning them into little peices.
Long 2x4 set at 24 degrees. Line up all pieces at right angle (like stair). Clamp down long 2x1 on top to hold all pieces. Make 1 cut across all of them simultaneously.
#🖕
Lots of great advice here. I’ll just throw in that these types of jobs can be really prone to accidents. You set up a jig and make a ton of repetitive cuts and get lazy/distracted and that’s how finger sausage gets made.
Especially with small pieces like that - really easy for the thumb to zag instead of zig
Yep build the jig/crosscut sled with workholding and hand placement or even handles thought out
That's what I would do. Sleds can be guarded so that the blade is always covered. I would use toggle clamps to hold the work pieces.
This is how I would do it too. Basically a modified version of a wedgie sled: https://indianacountywoodturners.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/2015.11.JNL_.CW-WedgieSled.pdf
Genius!
Never forget you have a lower bandsaw guard.... and arteries in your fingers can bleed you out... one finger tip,.... trip to the ER 2 hours 5 measly stitches... and one hour sessions with a tourniquet, Lost over 2 pints .1
Not trying to be contentious here, but it's virtually impossible\* to bleed out from a finger cut, (or complete amputation). In four years as paramedic, I used a tourniquet once! That was a messy gunshot wound with massive arterial bleeds, NOT a finger bleed. Just don't want people to get nervous when they get a nasty cut or saw injury. It's really not a real medical worry. \*"Virtually impossible" because, with a hemophiliac... well, maybe.
Yikes!
Oof....or zig instead of zag
Mama says that ~~alligators~~ table saws are ornery... 'cause they got all them teeth but no toothbrush
Mama say that happiness is from magic rays of sunshine that come down when you're feeling blue.
Absolute truth. This is why I'm missing part of my right thumb. Made a jig for my crosscut sled on my table saw, had about 500 cuts to make. Was around 450ish when my reach-for-the-piece got lazy, and bumped the blade. Shouldhada sawstop, lol.
That’s why I have a sawstop (or Festool, technically).
Absolutely! That’s why I can here to get some options on how to do this. Most dangerous thing you can do in a woodshop is the cut you have to make a bunch of times. I think the bandsaw might be the best tool for the job with the right jig, but luckily I’ve got a saw stop so leaning towards using that to be extra safe. I prefer having all my fingers!
I ran my hand through the router table a week ago doing exactly this. I was about an hour in to 1/16” roundovers and got lazy/distracted. Such a small cut felt relatively safe to do without too much safety set up. Power feeder, featherboards, etc going forward for even the smallest cuts. Stay safe!
Hope you’re recovering well! Those wounds take way too long to heal, if it’s anything like I did to the tip of my thumb.
I would make a trough to put numerous pieces into and run it through the table saw with the blade set at 24 degrees from vertical and just high enough to cut through the pieces. Use the table saw fence to run the stack through with the work pieces on the bottom, upside down from shown. https://preview.redd.it/2wut5tmd196d1.jpeg?width=729&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4963cbd6b138d0fe58d8abb46ded3385e355631b
That’s a great idea!
Tell us if it worked.
Not so sure this is a great idea. I would be worried about cut pieces getting pinched in the blade and then sending the whole package back to you at a high rate of speed.
I tried it, setup was not too precise but it seemed to work fine. One improvement might be to run a piece of tape across all of the pieces to keep them together until out of the saw. https://preview.redd.it/yqf45kvzdc6d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a604e70890c0c01395e1e74c7206334e2a847030
did you do this just for op for funzies??
Yea, I had some scraps, put it together in about 10 minutes, partially to prove to myself it could work.
why i love this sub
Seems like! What a hero
I agree. While this \*could\* work well and cause no issues, the risk is high. Between inconsistencies in the fence (face not 100% flat, flex while pushing against it), blade runout, and human error, there's a lot of ways this could quickly end up catching something and throwing the whole thing backward, or possibly launching small pieces upward out of the trough at you. You probably wouldn't rip or crosscut something pinched between two table saw fences...this isn't much different in terms of the physics involved. That said, you could probably make this safer by leaving the side away from the fence open so that offcuts can move out of the way, and then use a sacrificial push block to press the pieces down and toward the fence on the fence side of the blade. I would probably take a 2x4 and cut it so there's a heel that can push from the back, and a notch to allow it to go over the back fence of the jig and allow the rest of the 2x4 to push down on the pieces. You could stick a handle on that to keep your hands farther from the blade (or make it out of a 2x6 so you have extra wood to include the handle in the design).
Did something like this recently to run a dado down the middle of a bunch of half circle pieces. Stacked them up against a fence and clamped the whole assembly in two places. i used the clamps as handles and ran the whole thing along my standard table saw fence. worked great. Obviously here it’s a through cut. I guess my point was - clamp it. make it a ridgid piece.
Clamping would make it safer.
Great call, this is kinda what I was thinking too.
This is exactly how I was gonna do it
Table saw sled jig that would let you line up 5+ at once for a cut
My thumb hates this comment
Plus, it could be even safer if they rigged 10 saws together because then they would only have 20 cuts.
For sake of accuracy I’d do them one at a time. What ever the project is and needing 1000 needs the accuracy and should have the price to the point their is no reason to rely on the blade or have a safety issue.
came here to say this, some days at work I spend hours cutting parts like this
A sled jig for 1 piece at a time is the correct answer here. Just make sure that you build it with shields for your hands and fingers to rest on that are away from the blade. That many repetitive cuts will place you in auto-pilot and you can lose track of where your fingers are until you cut them off.
It’s really not ideal that you have to make so many repetitive cuts on such a small starting piece. That’s exactly the kind of chore that leads to complacency and sticking a hand in the blade. I guess table saw sled is probably safest way to do that a ton of times. A miter gauge on a band saw also comes to mind, since it won’t fling the off cut.
Was my thought exactly. One of the dumbest things I ever did with a miter saw started like this. No damage beyond the shock of it, but still. Table saw sled sounds the safest to me as well but I see no solution to the tedium.
Count the numbers, take breaks, make weird games out of it. Keep telling yourself you’re halfway there. Yell at the walls. At least that’s my strat
Yeah I’m thinking the miter gauge on the bandsaw is probably the safest and quickest. I can probably whip up a jig that holds 10 or so pieces in place at a time. Idk how else one could go about it.. basically no matter how you go about it you’re going to end up with hundreds of repeat cuts.
If your bandsaw table can be tilted to 24 degrees, you could maybe clamp 10 or so together at a time and run it along the fence. Once you have that setup, it would go pretty fast. With the clamp on the _outside_ of the blade (not between blade and fence), it even gives you a little bit extra to hang onto.
Came here to say this. My table tilts, and it's got a sturdy fence. Zip them through a handful (3 or 4) at a time, letting the waste pieces fall on the fence, to be pushed into a properly positioned 5 gallon bucket.
A mitre saw and some quick nailed together "mold" to hold the piece in position. 5 secs per piece, 5 min rest and material handling after every 50 pieces. About three hours.
I think this is better. Similar jig for holding them but less ris for kickback
And make sure the mold fits under and behind the piece too to reduce tear out
Re-do. Rip the bevel in a board as wide as you want the length to be (2 ¼"). Rip the next square the same width. Cut them both down to several pieces and then cut to width (¾") doing several at the same time (TS sled, sliding chop saw, etc). Rinse and repeat. Edit for dimensions
Comments like this are why I follow this subreddit. That wouldn’t have occurred to me, but it’s so simple when you see it laid out.
Makes a great deal of sense. Always try to do the difficult or angled cut first, and Make sure the final fiddly little steps are straightforward and easy
“Order of Operations.” Not just for math.
Came here to say this, wanted to see if anyone else posted it. You want to do as much of the work as possible on as large of a piece as possible. A perfect example is the frames I'm making for my beehives. The most complex piece has 13 cuts, not including it's rip to final dimension. I make as many of these cuts as I can on a block of wood (a true 2x4) cut to length. Then rip that large block into little pieces. Not only have I keep my fingers safe and well clear, I also greatly reduce the time it takes. I can make most of these cuts on what will end up being four or more pieces. Rather than 13 cuts times x amount of pieces.
Exactly! Cut the bevel FIRST
The best way to do this is to start with a very large piece and cut down from the large piece until it gets unsafe or the piece is unsupported. ——————————- Take this and cut it like this ———— — — — — As you cut it, you will have a long and safe work piece that keeps your hands *away from blades.* When it gets short enough that your down to your last pieces, *these pieces are scrap*. Don’t try to optimize every last piece unless you have a jig to keep your hands away from the blades. Do not cut small pieces — on big repetitive jobs this is how people lose their fingers. If you use a miter saw, make the cut and keep the blade down until it stops spinning. Wear eye protection. Do these three simple things and you’ll be a LOT safer than most people do this. Most people envision cutting small pieces, but really the way to think of this job is cutting the end off of long supportable pieces utilizing stops on a miter saw. It’s easy and safe if you do it. You can batch the jobs with pieces, and just work your way through them. ——-/ ——-/ ——-/ And then cut three pieces from those. —— | —/ —— | —/ —— | —/ Then cut your angle from the pieces remaining. Then straight cut from those pieces. —- \ \—| It gives you the longest working pieces for the longest time and is the safest cut pattern.
https://preview.redd.it/q0loo6y1l96d1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=33ecd4d3c88eda2c832c25cf3eb8e1b87caa4ecf 180 pieces Make a jig my friend and just get in the zone.
Nice
Hand saw, a stop on my benchhook and cancel my gym membership. 1 month later ready to show off my massive shredded gains.
Make sure to change arms! I made that mistake once.
Cut a strip of wood on your table saw with a 24ish degree angle that's as wide as you need the pieces. Turn the blade back to 90 and then cut the strip into 100 pieces. This is a common method used in segmented turnings
Do you have a tracksaw? Cut a single piece at a 66° angle lengthwise, then line about 50 or so up on top of that, so they are all at a 24° angle to the cut line. Zip, 100 of them at a time, and you get to keep your thumbs.
I would get these done by someone who has the automation to do it. Repetitive tasks like this get dangerous because you get lazy and bored. That or I’d do them 100 at a time with a miter saw, and then go do something else to change my mind. It should take about between 10 and 20 seconds per piece. So factor in about 6 hours of work to get it all done on the long side. Plus breaks. That’s a whole day of just cutting those pieces.
If by "wall panel things" you are talking about the wood wall art that is painted/stained various colors to make an artistic pattern, then... Long ago I looked into this and you can buy bags and bags of those on amazon for cheaper than it cost to go to HD or L and buy the wood. Not to mention they are already pre-cut. No clue on the quality as I ended up not following through with the project. YMMV
Karate hand chop. Hiiiiiiiiiiya
I saw your answer and realized that I am not the only genius on Reddit Of Course This was the first thing that came to mind talk to Mr. Miyagi and focus Daniel Son
Sub it out!!
lol! If this wasn’t a gift for my girl I would definitely consider it… but also how the heck would you find someone who would do that!?
You get 10 subcontractors to do 100 each. (They each get 10 subcontractors to do 10 each…)
Dremel
Whatever saw I chose I would be using a pneumatic clamp with a foot activated valve on the holding jig.
Be careful. This is a repetitive task. Don't get complacent.
Make a jig with a clamp and I would do it on a radial arm saw, but I’m old school. Table saw would work with the right jig as well but safety first. No janky jigs.
Or a radial arm saw with the motor tilted 24 degrees. Either one pass for all or a stop block and multiple cuts. Or a sled on a table saw. The RAS is potentially a bit more precise; the sled may have a bit of play, the RAS rollers (properly maintained) have none. (This assumes the operator knows not to apply lateral forces to the saw while cutting to avoid flexing the arm.)
Ya I definitely agree is a RAS and a jig. Personally I don’t think I have the patience for that project
I have never seen or used an RAS that was an accurate enough for what I assume this project is (a glue up for a turned bowl). On paper I love an RAS but in real life they have so much more play than modern sliding miter saws. I would be over the moon with a kapex accurate RAS for my shop.
I have a ‘60s era black and decker. It’s a tank. No measurable play if used correctly.
Mitre saw with jig and hold down.
Do you need that end grain look? Also the proportions on the Etsy listing seem to be 1.5” squares, probably ripped 2x4s. If you didn’t mind long grain, I’d rip a bevel on a 3/4” or 8/4 poplar board and then crosscut on a sled with a stop. Seems like I’d alternate the bevel angle and width of the rip to vary height to match the etsy listing , but height wouldn’t matter because you can glue and brad the blocks to each other rather than a backing board, provided that height and width are equal.
They need to be the end grain to get the depth I’m going for. Going for a “pixelated” sunset and mountain look. I don’t think it would look as good with side or face grain… albeit that would be much easier!
Make a cross cut sled, with a box top which holds 10, lift lid load ten close lid and push. (Obviously only works on the assumption that all pieces are same size or inside a tolerance.) I also wouldn't pull it back towards yourself until the box is emptied.
Great answer
I did something similar a while back https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/s/gFwfSDwxHr
Nice! That’s a great idea for making small cuts on the miter saw. Do that every day for a couple weeks and your forearms would be tree trunks!
Best answer!!
Set the scroll saw table to a 24 degree angle, make a pot of coffee, and get down to the get down
Stop block on a mitre saw with a zero clearance.
I’m not an expert, but I would do this: 1. Mill all long material to final square dimensions - a bunch of long 3/4” sticks 2. Miter saw or crosscut table saw sled with stop block and blade on the angle you want - cut to *double* your final desired length 3. Crosscut table saw sled to split the double long pieces in half and give you your 90s for the base. You can cut several pieces at once with some clever holding.
Watch your fingers! So much repetition can make you lose focus.
Build a guide sled and use the table saw
Sled on a table saw. Batch them out at 3-5 at a time.
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To look like the bottom piece in the picture
Miter saw with a stop block
Helloooooo kick backs
Miter saw is out of contention for this one.. too small to do safely and also I’d be flinging them all over the shop and finding pieces for the next 10 years
Table saw sled, woodworkers tape / 2 pieces of thin scrap wood across the top and bottom to hold a few boards together horizontally then repetitive cuts
Plain your board to thickness, Rip these on a table saw using a sled with a good fence and blade. Repeat step 1 on cut sides tor precision. Then two miter saw with a stop block and a good quality blade for consistency. If you only want one pointy end otherwise use two miter saws one for flat end and then one for pointy don’t cut tiny pieces
Ok, gotta know. Why do you need 1000 pieces cut like this?
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1023729892/wood-wall-art-wood-sound-diffuser?gpla=1&gao=1&&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_us_a-home_and_living-home_decor-wall_decor-wall_hangings-other&utm_custom1=_k_CjwKCAjwjqWzBhAqEiwAQmtgT3fpWblCFz7xrAZ8kGgQ-MbGYdGzJ4r8ZcYt58UzSCBs5hCZMMrFKBoCS5YQAvD_BwE_k_&utm_content=go_12559942249_120251210540_506897851377_pla-305562556206_m__1023729892_539167528&utm_custom2=12559942249&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADtcfRK0EbLEC5LMXvp6gP_jtXKig&gclid=CjwKCAjwjqWzBhAqEiwAQmtgT3fpWblCFz7xrAZ8kGgQ-MbGYdGzJ4r8ZcYt58UzSCBs5hCZMMrFKBoCS5YQAvD_BwE Making something similar to this
Wow. I would say I could do all the angles, but that paint scheme (which I cannot do) is what really makes it for me. Best of luck with that.
I’ve done some in the past with larger pieces, it’s pretty easy, albeit time consuming. I may have bitten off more than I can chew with this one but it’ll be cool if I make it work!
How do you make that effect tho?
All the pieces are one solid color. What i do at least is get a bunch of samples from the paint people and then just mix to get a close gradient. Watering down the paint ever so slightly helps to show the grain
You’re in love!
With a miter saw. Right tool for the job my friend, right tool for the job.
I don’t think the miter saw is the right tool for this job! There isn’t enough to hold onto and making that small cut 1000 times is a recipe for disaster. The finished pieces are just over 1”
A stop block and a million dollar stick will make that job safe and a lot faster than trying to get an angular cut with a flat slope out of an hourglass shaped beam
Woodpeckers miter sled
I only have a circular saw. I would make a jig by attaching an angle “fence” to the underside of my crosscut jig. And create a worksurface jig that I can set it on, with a matching angle for the other side of the workpiece and supports to keep the sawplate supported. Then I’d tuck the piece under my crosscut jig, nestling into the angle, and set it on the worksurface, and cut. Here are some links about cutting pieces too small for a circular saw. https://youtu.be/kpNGfAtqpWI https://imgur.com/gallery/VwAsMJ9 If I had a crosscut sled for a table saw, I’d bead-nail some corner guides to the sled to hold the pieces in exactly the right spot.
I’d make a custom sled for my table saw so that I could line up, clamp down and cut a dozen or so at a time.
Make a holding jig and use a Japanese hand saw. It’s precise, fast, and the least likely way I can think of to make multiple tedious cuts without the inevitable distraction risking a finger.
“Lasers”
Go on…. I am always down to spend thousands of dollars for a tool that a cheaper one could do!
Table saw - crosscut sled - stop block - zero clearance slot - 24° blade tilt - secure left side cut off with upside down pencil eraser - push - pull - push - pull x ♾️
(in reverse order of preference) 1) Miter saw set to 24 degrees with a stop set up. Possibly just a block held to the fence with a clamp. 2) table saw sled. I'd use the sled rather than the miter that comes with the table because it lets me support much closer to the blade and set up a stop. 3) set up the miter guide and hand one of my young adult offspring the back saw. Any chance I get to teach my kids how to make something, I teach them the manual method first. Only after they master the fundamental concepts do I let them use the power tools. Operating a table saw is NOT the time for a beginner to be figuring out where to put their feet, figuring out if they are doing the job right etc. I have a chronic pain and fatigue condition. Economy of motion when doing repetitive stuff is super important. For me, sliding a well made sled on the table saw with both arms and back is less strenuous than pulling down the miter saw against its spring. And having one or more of my boys do most of it is easier still.
I think it’d be easier to stay safe with a table saw as opposed to a miter saw with how small they are. Unfortunately I don’t have any offspring to pawn the task of onto… but I’ll mention it to my gf and see what she thinks about helping me out there 😂
What are we making with these friend? So curious
[this](https://www.etsy.com/listing/1023729892/wood-wall-art-wood-sound-diffuser?gpla=1&gao=1&&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_us_a-home_and_living-home_decor-wall_decor-wall_hangings-other&utm_custom1=_k_CjwKCAjwjqWzBhAqEiwAQmtgT3fpWblCFz7xrAZ8kGgQ-MbGYdGzJ4r8ZcYt58UzSCBs5hCZMMrFKBoCS5YQAvD_BwE_k_&utm_content=go_12559942249_120251210540_506897851377_pla-305562556206_m__1023729892_539167528&utm_custom2=12559942249&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADtcfRK0EbLEC5LMXvp6gP_jtXKig&gclid=CjwKCAjwjqWzBhAqEiwAQmtgT3fpWblCFz7xrAZ8kGgQ-MbGYdGzJ4r8ZcYt58UzSCBs5hCZMMrFKBoCS5YQAvD_BwE) is kind of the effect I’m going for. I’m using smaller pieces though so I can make a landscape type design in the piece. It’ll either be really cool or a total waste of time…. We shall see!
Looks like they're variable in angle and direction on the Etsy listing. I'd do 10 with a mitre saw and end stop, change the angles on the saw and do another 10; random enough. I can't think of a way I'd be comfortable with to cut more than one at a time though. Edit: you'll need two cuts, which I hadn't thought of. I'd cut 500 square ones twice the length you need, then cut each length in half at an angle. I'd also stop after 20-100 and see how it's looking. Nice effect, hope it works for you!
It’s a wood mosaic! I love wood! I will drink coffee for you while you’re doing your project. Take lots of breaks, like one every 20 minutes to move you’re body position
Is it a punishment? If so, with a screwdriver to increase damage.
Get Mikey to do it… “Hey Mikey!” 😂 or you can get Jiggy with it! 😂 Tho I wondering did you cut these and then decide or this scraps…? Been easier to rip the 24 degree then choppy chop
Jig for the table, or chop, saw.
I’d use a track saw and jig
Pneumatic clamps
I don't know what Would be best... bandsaw set at your angle maybe. Set block/jig an if you get a super smooth carbide sterling or your preferred
I would use a combination of table saw and miter saw. Set one up for the 90 deg cut and the other for the 24ish deg cut. First cut on a board is the 24 then the second is the 90 again for the second piece. Use stop blocks to control length. This assumes a 90 on one side and the 24 on the other side of the piece. Edit sure to premature send.
Rip the angle into a board and then cut the pieces out of it
Clamp em together with a bar clamp and cut with a skill saw set on your angle. That way you can cut a bunch at once
Be sure to cut your blanks at a length that is equal to 2x a finished piece. That way you make one cut but both pieces are usable.
Table saw sled with a toggle clamp would be my approach
This is my little cross cut sled https://preview.redd.it/gp6wt46s7c6d1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e46a23a6c8694b5ebc52ce5568214e75bf58f631 The second fence is real important to guard the blade as the sled goes all the way forward. The piece behind the clamp guards the blade while switching work pieces. Dropping a chunk of wood on a spinning blade isn't good.
I would have cut the funny angle *first* when I had long, safe to control pieces. *Then* do the 90⁰ cuts with the small pieces. But since you're here now, if you've got a band saw that you can tilt at the correct angle, or a miter saw, set that up with stop blocks, fences, or a jig and go to town. Just take breaks so you don't zone out and remove something you can't reattach.
Others are wrong when they say you should have cut angles first, then straight. It doesn't matter. There's still an easy way. Put a fence on a (hopefully deep) crosscut sled as a jig. Butt as many blocks up against the fence as you can fit, as if you're trying to chop them all at the same length. Get the angle by tilting your table saw blade. Figure out some way of holding the blocks down reasonably well on the sled (maybe a bar clamp of the whole stack against the head board of the sled is enough).
Big jig to clamp all in a line, table saw angled at 24 degrees, first cut down the middle, then back to straight 90 degree cut to trim the backs off both halves to make sure they all the same. Have a nice long fence on the table saw and a stick to push the end of the jig through.
À thousand ? Neat project I hope! As others say, make a jig for sure, that's a lot of cuts. The prep time will assure accuracy, and safety so long as you don't get careless with all the repetetive motion. Teflon tape on the slides you cut to fit in the tracks on the table saw helps a lot and is cheap. Or you can buy slides for the jig
Table saw, crosscut angle guide, stop block
Would a track saw cut that angle? I’m thinking lining them up side by side and double sided tape them to the table. Do as many as you can with your track length
Bandsaw with sled is safe option. Miter saw with auxiliary fence and zero clearance. Place stop block on left side of fence and use new sharp blade.
Chopsaw! Easy peazy!
https://preview.redd.it/rfwl0y9hhd6d1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f107dca3d7ad1b02121404abe7810082a956f1a9
I guess my text didn't go thru? I just did a couple hundred of these about a month ago. I did 6 sticks at once on the miter saw. I had an angled stop set up for the angled cuts (to keep them at length) and another additional piece to measure out the straight pieces. Worst part is having to switch the miter angle back and forth each cut, but it came out really consistent for me. I probably didn't do the clearest job of explaining but if you'd like I can take some pics of what I'm talking about when I go home
Either the table saw or bandsaw because you can cut slide over cut and push the finished pieces with the next cut. A miter saw could do the same thing but then you have to stop the saw between each cut and remove the next piece.
Table saw 100%.
Use a sled or a table saw miter guage with a fence.
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A whole wall would be pretty cool… but also a major pain in the ass!
I made one myself of about 500. I cut them to about 5” and then cut them in half using my miter gauge in half at 30 degrees or so. The more tedious part was sanding all of them to then paint. For that I chucked my random orbital in my wood vice and did them one at a time. I watched most of a baseball season sanding those things. Painting I made a lazy Susan with chicken wire for them to stand on and sprayed them all. The glue up I’d suggest just laying out a few rows at a time. Trying to do the entire field I ended up with the end it starting to dry and was hard getting it to come in to square. I have some photos of my process if you’re interested.
Sanding is the next, more tedious part of the process. I am thinking about putting some sand and all the pieces in a big tumbler and letting it go to work. I saw a “how it’s made” about golf tees and that’s exactly how they do thousands at a time. I figure it’ll work for this since it’s 1)being painted and 2) they are all hard maple so only really need it for tear out.
probably better answers on here, but I probably would just use a miter saw.
I take no responsibility for this, your fingers, blood, or life, but I also think [iPeg2](https://www.reddit.com/user/iPeg2/) has the easiest and safest solution. Also (just spitballing here), could it be improved by stacking two on top of each other?
Why not at least cut the 24 degrees on a wide board first and then cut the boards into the smaller pieces? Way easier to make less mistakes and less working with small parts
Perfect use for a radial arm saw
Others have the correct concern of complacency. To try avoid that I would try to find a way to do like 10/20 at a time. That way the time between cuts can be a rest and tear down and set up and you can concentrate on less total cuts. Jigs will be your friend for this number of pieces. Do you need the cut off from the opposite end or is it gonna be scrap?
I’m trying to cut each piece close to in half. Doesn’t need to be exact but relatively close.
Jig that holds 20 down, run through bandsaw. Base piece to hold at angle and a bar over top to hold down one half. Left side hanging free, tabs on bottom to run in miter slot. Run through and let the offcuts fall, release the bunch and reload. I feel the bandsaw would be less impactful for complacency. Give yourself two handholds on the jig so you keep your fingers in a safe spot.
You’ve done this the wrong way round, angle first on a length then cut to length.
chop saw and build a jig to hold the pieces
2 table saws, with two jigs & stop blocks
Outsource? I know it may defeat the purpose of this sub, but some jobs just aren't worth your own personal time or risk.
How ever you do it, make sure you continually think about safety. Don't become complacent with the repetitive job.
Its kinda late now but if it was possible the easier solution would of been math + wood waste and cutting the angle first then turning them into little peices.
Long 2x4 set at 24 degrees. Line up all pieces at right angle (like stair). Clamp down long 2x1 on top to hold all pieces. Make 1 cut across all of them simultaneously. #🖕
Line a bunch of them in a row, clamp in place, rip with circular or track saw. Do 20-50 of them at a time with a 5-8’ cut