I wouldn’t use edge banding if you are painting. Painting can cause the banding to lift off. Try Durham Rock Hard or other wood putty instead - spread it on, allow to dry, and sand smooth. Paint right over it with no problems.
You can buy strips of different woods or make some yourself with a good table saw. The store bought edging comes in a roll at different widths and are made for plywood edging.
I used to use iron on edging and now I use a flat molding that looks great, stained or painted. I don't bother with 45 degree mitered corners either, looks good just butted up. Molding strips can be used for all kinds of things to fancy up furniture.
He means that he's already put the drawer faces on, if he put molding over the edges then the frame of the cabinet would stick out past the front of the drawers.
This works great if the thickness of the molding matches the thickness of the drawer fronts, or the depth of the drawers are designed accordingly to bring it flush.
Edge Supply Birch 7/8" X 250' Roll of Plywood Edge Banding, Preglued Real Wood Veneer Edging, Flexible Veneer Edging, Easy Application Iron on Edge Banding for Restoration, Made in USA https://a.co/d/0bIixGRQ
Either iron on edge banding, or cut your own from hardwood. I've seen a few vids by stumpy nubs and 3x3 Tamar on basically glueing on a thin rip of hardwood, then using a flush trim but to bring the edge banding flush with the outside of the plywood.
Exactly. Since it's not for show and will be painted then drywall filler works great. Sand with \~120 (nothing higher yet), fill, light sand with 220 to even out, paint, re-fill any missed pinholes, 2nd coat, 3rd coat if needed.
If you want another option step, de-waxed shellac can be used before everything to seal all the edges first, filler for any tearout/rough parts. I do this all the time.
I wouldn’t use edge banding if you are painting. Painting can cause the banding to lift off. Try Durham Rock Hard or other wood putty instead - spread it on, allow to dry, and sand smooth. Paint right over it with no problems.
This is a great idea and solves the problem that edge banding would make the frame stick out a little bit past the drawers too.
You can buy strips of different woods or make some yourself with a good table saw. The store bought edging comes in a roll at different widths and are made for plywood edging.
Should be noted that its much easier to edge band before assembly but since this is already assembled there really isn't another option.
I used to use iron on edging and now I use a flat molding that looks great, stained or painted. I don't bother with 45 degree mitered corners either, looks good just butted up. Molding strips can be used for all kinds of things to fancy up furniture.
I thought about molding but didn't want the edges to extend past the drawers. Next time I'll plan ahead better
You can get 3/4" molding if the edges are 3/4". Look around for molding that may work before rejecting idea.
He means that he's already put the drawer faces on, if he put molding over the edges then the frame of the cabinet would stick out past the front of the drawers. This works great if the thickness of the molding matches the thickness of the drawer fronts, or the depth of the drawers are designed accordingly to bring it flush.
Thanks, did not think of that. So many things and I am not good at visualizing.
yep that's exactly what I was talking about
Edge Supply Birch 7/8" X 250' Roll of Plywood Edge Banding, Preglued Real Wood Veneer Edging, Flexible Veneer Edging, Easy Application Iron on Edge Banding for Restoration, Made in USA https://a.co/d/0bIixGRQ
Rub or roll the edges after ironing them on. Razor sharp trimming tools help greatly.
Preglued edge banding tends to lift when paintedÂ
Either iron on edge banding, or cut your own from hardwood. I've seen a few vids by stumpy nubs and 3x3 Tamar on basically glueing on a thin rip of hardwood, then using a flush trim but to bring the edge banding flush with the outside of the plywood.
Sand, prime, fill edges with Drydex, sand, prime, scuff-sand and topcoat.
Exactly. Since it's not for show and will be painted then drywall filler works great. Sand with \~120 (nothing higher yet), fill, light sand with 220 to even out, paint, re-fill any missed pinholes, 2nd coat, 3rd coat if needed. If you want another option step, de-waxed shellac can be used before everything to seal all the edges first, filler for any tearout/rough parts. I do this all the time.
Finish them with pride.