What is a good starting number for a nock point when shooting off the shelf on a trad bow?

Going into barebow and looking for equipment. I found a Gillo G1 on ebay in decent condition and comes with a plunger and bolted arrow rest. Anyone have an idea what a reasonable price to pat would be? Edit: g1 27” riser (ILF, in case they made other versions.) Also, I did target archery for 5 years ending about 15 years ago and I figured I should get something good quality so I don’t have to reinvest in an additional riser in the near future.

G1 27" last sold for $500 new. You should be able to figure out what you're willing to pay for a used bow in the condition you can see from there. It's an excellent riser that's been discontinued. Parts will be available for a long time from Gillo, so no concern there.

For the Archery GB awards - there are a lot of ways to earn each rank (Bowman, Master Bowman, etc.) Are they all considered the same, or is earning GMB in a York shoot different than earning one in a New Western, for example? In other words, would you collect several Bowman awards if you earn them in different categories, or have you already reached that rank?

You cannot get the same classification multiple times in one season, it doesn't matter whether you submit three scores or thirty scores, you still just get one badge. The scores required are taken from the Archery GB Handicap tables, so the score for each type of round is set at a specific handicap value. In theory this means that the same standard of shooting is required no matter the round you choose. [Archery GB Handicap Tables](https://archerygb.org/files/outdoor-handicap-tables-200123092252.pdf) So for example, for Elite Master Bowman the scores are set at a 3 handicap. GMB is 9 handicap. MB is 15 handicap. Bowman 1st Class is 21 handicap. And so on.

Maybe I’m thinking about it wrong then. I had pictured it like the 252 scheme or the USA Archery achievement awards.

Beginning archer - the bone in my left thumb right next to the webbing between my thumb and forefinger is starting to bruise. Is there anything I can do about it?

You might have a bow grip that is putting pressure on that part of your thumb (the proximal phalanx) instead of the meaty part of your palm/thumb (thumb metacarpal) . This video is about string slap, but NuSensei teaches the V-grip, so I've linked directly to that section for you: [https://youtu.be/eFIAEohZY6M?t=313&si=Pu\_77b1hUZqxH2JM](https://youtu.be/eFIAEohZY6M?t=313&si=Pu_77b1hUZqxH2JM) Try holding the bow like that and the discomfort should disappear.

Does anyone know which model **Spigarelli Z/T Rest** fits the **Kinetic Sovren?**

C

Thanks mate. The alternativess website says: *The Hoyt specific Model B Z/T Rest has been changed. This new design has been developed specifically for use with all previous and current Hoyt risers, plus also the Samick Vision� and Spigarelli have changed the name to Model C.* *The Z/T Model A rest fits W&W, Sebastien Flute (SF), KAP and most other recurve risers. It is considered to be the Universal model in the Z/T range.* So I really don’t know. I was about to buy the model A?

The universal one, that [Lancaster carries](https://lancasterarchery.com/products/spigarelli-zero-tolerance-zt-rest) is the one with the curved front. That's the [Model C](https://spigasport.com/zt-model-c), which Spigarelli describes as fitting most risers. The [STANDARD](https://www.alternativess.com/cgi-bin/htmlos.cgi/0039844.5.20127878625212943978/SPZTSTD) one will work. I believe that's the newest model and intended to be universal. The [MTR](https://www.alternativess.com/cgi-bin/htmlos.cgi/0039844.5.21039478126212943978/SPMTR) will also work.

Does anyone know about this bow and maybe how much it's worth? Picked it out years ago from an antique store and couldn't find anything about it online. [Side](https://www.reddit.com/media?url=https%3A%2F%2Fpreview.redd.it%2Ff890tirk2jlb1.jpg%3Fwidth%3D3024%26format%3Dpjpg%26auto%3Dwebp%26s%3Da200def31dac2b3bc0692b79b624cec18e0e4391) [Front](https://www.reddit.com/media?url=https%3A%2F%2Fpreview.redd.it%2F6sz3aerk2jlb1.jpg%3Fwidth%3D3024%26format%3Dpjpg%26auto%3Dwebp%26s%3Dda2156fa848f7daa662e39323cfe9a4a1a971e0f) On the handle it says PSE 2r, and the flat, black piece sticking out of the bow has C62186 etched into it but those are the only identifications on this bow.

Where is a good place to ask for a valuation? A family friend is looking to sell her late husband's hunting gear, and after the step-children looted all his firearms and ammo there is a compound bow and about 100 arrows (most are missing the tips). I have zero archery, and specifically hunting, experience, but I offered to help her sell, as she didn't want to deal with strangers on Marketplace or Craigslist, or wherever this stuff should be sold. Edit: Downvotes... what? If it were firearms I'd have a better understanding of pricing, but I'm all green here. https://imgur.com/a/e5S7wRV

I can give you a rough valuation. The Hoyt Enticer went out of production in 1997 or 1998, so it's around 25 years old. The sight and arrow rest are worthless. The sight is by Cobra, who have always been a cheap brand and that sight is definitely not even close to new, from what I can find I don't believe they've made a sight with that shape for at least 15 years. The arrow rest is a Whisker Biscuit style rest which have always been a cheap option and pretty much the only reason why anybody uses them now is because they're the cheap rest that tends to come with Ready to Hunt packages for low end bows. Lastly the arrows, I can't identify what they all are but from what I can identify, what you have there are: Easton Axis - £64.99 per dozen new Gold Tip Warrior - £75 per dozen new Easton FMJ - £75 per dozen new Easton XX75 Camo Hunter - £60 per dozen new The problem with selling arrows it's very important when buying second hand arrows that you're confident that they've looked after properly, so if you don't know the person who is selling them and trust them then that immediately knocks a big chunk off the value. Add in that most of them are missing the points, and the points will cost around $2-4 depending on what somebody wants to use and you're not looking at a lot. I'd say that your best bet is to chuck the bow on ebay and list it on the ArcheryTalk forum, with a complete dozen and an asking price of $125-150, but be prepared to take $100. Then list the arrows for around 40% of what they'd cost new. Or if you can convince a pawn shop to give you anything over $200 for everything then take that because honestly, it could take you a very long time to sell all of this because there really isn't much of a market for second hand arrows.

Thanks for taking the time to lay it all out. This stuff is basically all that's left of her husband's hunting gear. She mentioned that he had other, newer, bows and arrows with tips that she sold at an apparent loss. Sounds like her ex's family took advantage of her lack of knowledge and basically stole her husband's stuff. Would you say that the bow, assuming it's in working condition, would be OK to list locally as a "good starter compound bow w/arrows" for say $200, and haggle from there?

This is a terrible starter bow. Compound bows lose their value very very quickly.

Great. Thanks.

Yeah, unfortunately there's a reason that that ex's family walked off with those bows, and not this one. It's not very valuable. 200 is a good starting point for a negotiation. I don't think it's a good starter bow . It lacks adjustability - this is 30 inch draw, and from 60-70 pounds of draw weight - too much for a beginner. For someone who knows what they're doing and has a love for these older bows, it might have some value. Just list it for what it is ("Hoyt Enticer") Here's one sold on eBay - [https://www.ebay.com/itm/314756402187](https://www.ebay.com/itm/314756402187) though it might be a older model (It looks like single limb, yours looks like split limb design).

When I look at the target to draw, my head is at the 10 'clock position. By the time I'm at full draw, my head has rotated to the 12 o'clock position. I can't stop doing it. Is there any exercises/drills that can stop my head rotating during draw?I don't tilt my head, I just rotate. I feel like I'm turning into a damn Owl.

A mirror is your friend. Get a cheap full length mirror (non-glass), lean it on your bale and practice drawing your bow in front of it. I had a terrible time with my head turning as I rotated my shoulders into alignment and fixed it by doing this. Obviously just be careful not to release.

Thanks mate. That is a great idea. I have a mirror that I can use.

Does it happen if you simulate a draw using a resistance band or does it only happen when you're actually using your bow? If you can draw a resistance band without turning your head then I'd suggest just doing a lot of practice draws at home with a band to try and build muscle memory. Alternatively have somebody stand behind you while you shoot and either hold your head in place or taze you every time you turn it :P

Yeah only when I'm using my bow.its really annoying.the taser idea has some merit. Haha. No pain, no gain. Thanks for the response.

I bought a cheap recurve bow that came with a “3 brush” style arrow rest. It also came with some cheap arrows. I got the brush rest installed but I cannot figure out how the arrows are supposed to shoot through it as it looks like the nock engaged in the string will drive the fletching into the brushes rather than passing between them. Tried flipping the arrow over 180° and same issue. The nocks need to be rotated probably 5-8° to allow the fletching to clear the brushes rather than crashing into them but they appear to be glued on tight. I’m not sure if my description makes sense, but I don’t want to break anything or injure myself. Any ideas?

That’s not a rest that should be used on a recurve. Bad package

Can you post a photo? If you're using a *recurve* bow like this: [https://lancasterarchery.com/products/galaxy-bullseye-66-takedown-recurve-bow](https://lancasterarchery.com/products/galaxy-bullseye-66-takedown-recurve-bow) But you're using a brush rest like this: [https://www.amazon.com/Brush-Capture-Arrow-Replacement-Brushes/dp/B00NJ1RGK4](https://www.amazon.com/Brush-Capture-Arrow-Replacement-Brushes/dp/B00NJ1RGK4) then you're combining the wrong equipment. Brush rests are for compound bows like this: [https://lancasterarchery.com/products/diamond-infinite-305-compound-bow-package](https://lancasterarchery.com/products/diamond-infinite-305-compound-bow-package) Recurve bows use this: [https://lancasterarchery.com/products/hoyt-super-rest](https://lancasterarchery.com/products/hoyt-super-rest) or this: [https://lancasterarchery.com/products/spigarelli-z-t-dms-recurve-rest](https://lancasterarchery.com/products/spigarelli-z-t-dms-recurve-rest) or this: https://lancasterarchery.com/products/shibuya-ultima-recurve-rest

Here are some pictures: [https://imgur.com/a/00F8cQs](https://imgur.com/a/00F8cQs) And here is the listing I purchased: [https://www.ebay.com/itm/274660700670?var=575035772896](https://www.ebay.com/itm/274660700670?var=575035772896) Thank you for the help. It is really hard to get good pics while holding the bow, arrow, and a phone so I hope you can make out the situation. The arrow rest is likely the exact one you posted but it does fit the bow as it has an aluminum middle with threaded attachment. Hopefully you can see what I mean that with the nock actually vertical as it would be when the string is installed, the fletching is just a little off so instread of passing between the brushes, it will slam into them. The arrows are, based on price and feel, VERY cheap. I believe they are fiberglass as they are no aluminum and I don't think they are carbon either. They feel like tent poles material.

Unfortunately, this is a get-what-you-pay-for situation, and I mean that as gently as possible. If it is not possible to rotate the nocks, potentially because they're glued in, then I would not put *any* additional time, money, or effort into getting this bow package to work. Check out [https://www.reddit.com/r/Archery/comments/k33xyb/buying\_your\_first\_recurve\_bow\_guideadvice/](https://www.reddit.com/r/Archery/comments/k33xyb/buying_your_first_recurve_bow_guideadvice/) instead. You'll have to spend a little bit more to get a decent archery experience.

I get what you mean. I actually bough my kids different but equally low end youth bows to practice with because both of them joined cub/girl scouts. Their bows are \[for the money\] fine. Not anything you are going to enter an archery tournament or take down game with, but we can go to the local range and stick arrows into targets with them and just enjoy being outside and each other's company. If they stick with it, we'll upgrade. If they lose interest we'll throw them in a closet and feel they already paid for themselves in the few uses they got. As I am a teacher \[read: poor\] and I just want that experience of having an adult sized bow to go spend quality time with my kids, I ordered a different style arrow rest for this bow. I'll just throw the three-toothbrushes rest in a drawer and forget about it. I'll use the cheap-glued arrows until they break or I stick with it long enough to justify upgrading to stuff with recognizable name brands. Thank you for taking the time to discuss this. I hope that my kids and I continue to find enjoyment in the sport and it becomes worthwhile to upgrade to better equipment.

This Topoint Tacticool bow comes with a bunch of compound-styled accessories, including a brush rest, pin sight, and too-heavy limbs: [http://amazon.com/dp/B07KW4QXYF](http://amazon.com/dp/B07KW4QXYF) (And "arrow" brand arrows of unknown spine)

I'm surprised the nocks are glued in. Nocks should just be press/friction fit, since they're effectively a consumable. Even if you're not that great at the archery, you break nocks from time to time from hitting the back of another arrow in the target. They might just be really in there. You could try giving it a turn using a coin (US quarter, etc) for a little more leverage. I guess it's possible that super cheap arrows come with glued nocks, but you should at least try to give them a little bit of a twist.

The nocks are translucent blue and you can see the glob of glue. \[sad emoji\]

Oh, and for what it's worth, the index vane (the one that's a different color) is probably supposed to point up in a rest like this. Typically with a recurve it'd point away from the riser, but with these brush rests the vanes should get better clearance index-up.

Is there a special type of super glue I should use on my tied nocking points? Or will any super glue do?

Know that permanent/immovable tied nock locators are a great option as well. I use brass locators to figure out where things want to be, then replace them with sturdy immovable tied locators. [Jake Kaminski's perma locators](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dluQJyTGR2c&t=1048s) are pretty bulletproof if executed correctly. No glue anywhere, as it should be.

Don't use glue. I end my tied in nocking points with two overhand knots (a reef knot), trim the ends to 2mm and then burn them.

I already burned the tips 😅. I followed this video here: https://youtu.be/ThfCrOCy51M?si=2xCJvW6_e6E-REW6 So they can move up and down the string if twisted. Do you think it’s ok to leave them as-is and readjust when needed?

If you've tied them correctly then they will be able to move up and down the string when you twist them, because the serving is effectively acting like the thread on a screw, but won't move at all under normal circumstances.

Cool. It looks like I did the bottom one correctly but the top one moves on it’s own

I use single overhand knots and cinch them down with reasonably stiff force after each knot. They take a lot of effort to screw up and down. In the video it looks like he used double overhand knots and kept them pretty loose. From the looks of it at the end of the video, his nock points spun way too easily for my taste. I disagree with his suggestion to use superglue to lock them in place at the end.

Do archers actually put their bodies through their bows when moving around, or is it just a movie thing?

The stump shooters will occasionally hang their wooden bows over their shoulders when in the brush or woods all day; you won't see this from target archers on flat fields. Belt hooks are a great solution for all but the heaviest unstabilized risers, and underused IMO.

I have no idea about hunting, but in target archery at a range, no.

I haven't done archery since camp as a kid. There's an archery practice target on one of my frequent walks and I'd like to give it a shot. I'd like an inexpensive bow that would pack all the way down into my backpack so I don't have to explain it to all the neighbors / cops / suburbanites / etc on my walk. So I've been thinking a recurve takedown bow. I saw some people in this forum recommend the Samick Sage, I saw there are similar bows like Keshes that have (I guess) more "standard" interchangeable limbs? Any recommendations on how to choose?

The standard you speak of is ILF. I think it'll be slightly more expensive to go that route compared to the Samick/Galaxy Sage but it's a better buy in the long run. If you're trying to go as budget friendly as possible you can get a Galaxy Crescent and Galaxy Bronze limbs (20# is a great start). The Avalon archery backpack would do fine. Just remember you'll need arrows, a tab or glove, an armguard, and a quiver. I think you also need a rest for your riser, and if you're not getting a plastic rest with a little built-in tab then you'll need a plunger, but now we're adding a solid $75 to the setup. ​ [https://lancasterarchery.com/products/galaxy-crescent-25-recurve-riser](https://lancasterarchery.com/products/galaxy-crescent-25-recurve-riser) [https://lancasterarchery.com/products/galaxy-bronze-star-recurve-limbs](https://lancasterarchery.com/products/galaxy-bronze-star-recurve-limbs) [https://lancasterarchery.com/products/avalon-classic-recurve-backpack-w-arrow-tube](https://lancasterarchery.com/products/avalon-classic-recurve-backpack-w-arrow-tube) ​ Here's a guide by one of the subreddit mods/experts: https://www.reddit.com/r/Archery/comments/k33xyb/buying\_your\_first\_recurve\_bow\_guideadvice/

Thank you, lots of good information here!

[удалено]

Twice the distance is more than twice as hard. Honestly it’s probably that you’re either not really tuned (I can shoot arrows that fly so sideways you can read the label and do okay at 20yd) or they form errors you can get away with at short distances are being magnified here

[удалено]

Unless it was very windy, the wind probably had less effect than you think.

So I believe I understand why my shots are landing low with my Bear Grizzly. I used to shoot my modern ILF recurve (68") Before I moved onto trad. Started with the Bear Montana at 64" then got a Oak Ridge Ash at 62" Shot those no problem. I did find with the Ash, I had to adjust my aim just a bit I'm instinctively shooting so I built up muscle memory of feeling out 18m very casually but noticed first with the Ash that my shots were much below where I wanted to hit. Then came the grizzly. I noticed my shots going drastically lower with this bow and it made me think I got worse in form for a few weeks until I finally got to record myself and realized that the more I expand into the release, the higher my draw elbow raises. Could that be why my shots go low? Today I will expirement with not squeezing the back so far back and see how my shots land. I'm sure my arrows are fine for 18m at least as majority of my shots are center, maybe some slight release issues since I am a bit left and right at times. I'm wondering if I'm going crazy or is this a valid explanation?

High elbow can cause low shots. Are you following through and keeping your bow arm up? That’s a common issue for “instinctive” shooters. Maintain tension and direction through the shot

Im watching video of yesterdays shoot.. Tension I'm 90% sure I'm holding with my back, that I can feel. I've definitely developed a bad habit of pausing at full draw though and I think my follow through suffers because of this. (Or it's just a mental issue) I find myself following through but just short past my face. I don't go all the way back as I used to, which was to the very least to the neck area And Elbow is much higher than it would be with any other bow. It's very strange. With my other trad bows and ILF recurve, I can keep it straight in line with the arrow, but not with the grizzly

Pausing at full draw generally isn’t a bad habit. If the bow is preventing you from executing with good form, it’s likely the bow is a bad fit for you

How many archery level 5 nts coaches are there?

Not many. Dick Tone is the only Level 5 non-NTS coach. Then there are 14 listed on USA Archery's coach finder. There may be a couple more that are unlisted. Above a 3 generally has no benefit for the coach. But also I know level 4 coaches that I wouldn't listen to, and level 2s who I've sought lessons from. You want a coach with some certification, because it shows they've gone through SafeSport, had a background check, and have some insurance. After that, evaluate them by the success of their students.

Olympic recurve | what's the right technique to hit the top and bottom target of a vertical triple face? I usually hit the middle spot on but the top and bottom parts are inconsistent.

It tends to throw people off as they over exaggerate. Technically you should bend at the waist when shooting different elevations. But really what’s happening is that your form and possibly process isn’t consistent. Focus especially and making sure your shoulders stay low and your bow hand pressure is the same. It’ll sort itself out. I like shooting the bottom first and going up.

Just derailed my bow line drawing with three fingers instead of with the release. Didn't realize that was a hard and fast no-no. Thing is, I've also derailed another compound bow drawing with a release before too. Does this generally mean I'm drawing off-center? I've got long lanky arms and I don't know if I'm awkwardly drawing and setting up.

There are a few reasons why you may derail a compound bow. These include: * Bow set up incorrectly - e.g. excessive cam lean or cable guide incorrectly installed * Poor drawing technique, especially if using a bow that is too heavy * "Torqueing" the bow, either while drawing or at full draw * Finger shooting a bow that isn't really suitable for it The bow setup can be checked by a technician at a pro shop. Regarding people drawing bows that are too heavy for them, I've seen some try to use momentum or twist the bow in an odd way, to force it through to the let off point. I think if you can't draw it in one clean *controlled* movement, then it's likely to be too heavy. By torqueing, I mean gripping the bow and unintentionally adding rotational forces to the riser while shooting it. You don't want to have a tight grip on the bow. Ideally you hold it by pushing your palm into the grip, with your fingers relaxed and not gripping the riser. Your knuckles should be at approximately a 45 degree angle. Held properly it should allow the riser to pivot slightly in your bow hand as you draw it, without derailing. A bow sling, or finger sling will prevent it accidentally falling after release. I have used this training aid that helps you to develop a proper grip, which I found somewhat helpful - [https://lancasterarchery.com/products/true-shot-coach-training-aid](https://lancasterarchery.com/products/true-shot-coach-training-aid) Finger shooting a compound can be done, but it really doesn't suit the shorter bows that are prevalent now. The longer target bows (e.g. 40"+ axle to axle) with lower let off %'s, and older style compounds are more suited for this.

Is there somewhere I can just look through pictures of bare bow risers and limbs? I want to see what colour combos look good. But also, I just find it soothing.... I’ve tried searching #barebow on Instagram or “new bow” on this sub but I’m wondering if there’s a better forum or place to look.

Your best bet might be to look up several different riser makes and go from there. Lancaster's website allows you to sort risers as well and you can paw through the colour options there. Though I'd recommend finding a riser that fits your criteria and then looking at the colours available, as opposed to the other way around.

I'm shooting 68# at 28.5in draw. Should I be shooting 300 spine or 350 spine arrows?

Hi everyone! My friend is really into archery and we're looking for trustworthy websites for him to buy gear and supplies with international shipping. I looked around on this sub a bit but couldn't find anything. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

Lancaster Archery Supply. Canada Archery Online. Merlin Archery. Alternative Services.

Thanks a lot!!

I need to replace my Tidewe 45lb recurve's bowstring but not sure what length string I need. It's a 62" bow with a 29" draw length and 7.75" brace height. How do I calculate what length string I need?

The length of your bow is the AMO length. So you’d order a 62” AMO bow string. The actual length should be close to 59”. Draw length and brace height have no bearing on the length you’ll need. Edit: Just wanted to add - AMO length is determined by measuring the bow, strung, then adding 3” for long bow or 4” for recurve. I don’t know how you arrived at the 62” number but assumed it is marked on the bow. If so, then yes, this is the AMO length and the length used to buy a new string even if you measure it and it’s different. The difference would be because of your set brace height.

Ok great, thanks

Hello all, I'm looking at getting my first compound bow. I am currently looking at two used options. A Diamond Edge SB-1 and a Bowtech Amplify. The Diamond Edge SB-1 would be 200$ cheaper. They are both in almost unused condition. Which would you guys pick and why?

buy a better bow when starting, because if you try and "progress" from mediocre bows to good bows, you only spend more money buying all the mediocre bows as opposed to just buying a good bow any way

Which ILF limbs would you recommend for a beginner? Any brands I should stay away from? Currently considering: * Akusta Breeze * Sanlida X8 * Kinetic Advantage/Honoric This is based on availability and price where I am. (And maybe a little of what would look good with a purple riser)

Those are pretty much the same. I like the green foam.

Anything $100 and below until you are done going up in draw weight, then get something fancy. Galaxy bronze is a go-to at our range. Or buy used from regular members at your range who are trustworthy.

Other than the risk of injury from higher poundage, is there any issue with lending someone smaller your bow? I know on the reverse side arrows become dangerous if they're too short, or stacking might occur if the draw length is too long. Is there anything comparable, or is it just an issue of a bad experience? Just wondering since I'm taking my sister out to the range (she's doing the intro orientation), and she's been really keen to try my bow. I'm only using a 24# and she's a climber, so I was thinking the poundage wouldn't be the main issue if there were any.

I'm assuming a recurve or longbow here. 24# is fine for an athletic adult or teenager, especially one who rock climbs as their back muscles tend to be better developed than a person of equal general fitness. I have no problem using bows that are longer than recommended for my draw length. I just don't get as efficient a power stroke from the limbs if I'm not mistaken (I am reading this might be a myth however). There's no safety issue from what you described either. If this is a compound bow, generally they're not good for borrowing as the draw length is tailored to its individual owner and you'd have to go adjust a bunch of stuff.

Hey there! I work at a summer camp and oversee a bunch of out "outdoors" activities mainly our rock climbing and ropes course however archery is under one of the categories I supervise. While I enjoy it I do not know a ton about it. How do I buy the proper size bowstring for a recurve bow? I need to measure them again but I know if it is 66 inches long I wouldn't buy a 66 inch long string. Is there a chart or something else I'm suppose to look at? I need to buy some more strings and would greatly appreciate any help!

You can buy "66 AMO" strings, which is usually sized 3-4" shorter than 66". That's a pretty common size.

thank you, however I used that measurement as a baseline. If the bow is not 66 inches in length, how would I determine what size string to buy?

I earned a few Camp Archery Association pins as a kid and thought it’d be fun to see what other ones I could qualify for now and order them myself. CAA doesn’t sell to individuals though. Is there another way to get a set of them? They suggested eBay, but it’s all expensive vintage versions on there.

Secondary question: I’m interested in buying a compound bow like the one I used to earn those pins this week. I used a Bear Firestar 45# compound bow. I didn’t have any trouble drawing it for an hour or more and it worked pretty well for me. Is there a relatively inexpensive and higher quality version of that I can buy? Edit: The archery instructor told me it was a 45# bow, but now that I search online, he was likely mistaken. It was probably a 24# draw, which would explain why I could draw it back repeatedly without a problem. I'm not a particularly strong person, lol

I noticed I developed a bad habit of having my arm kick up on my shots. Can't be helped. It feels natural. What can be causing this? Definitely not death gripping the bow. Is it just a mental thing? Sadly it has improved my shots. I aim instinctively and at 20m this is the only way for me to hit my targets. Somehow I've managed to develop my form to the point where I know how to feel out the shot but always aim low and I've been trying to learn to just fight my instincts to aim low and raise my hips to get to whatever spot I'm aiming for. That worked for a while but I find it mentally draining. I'd rather shoot like my old modern recurve style where I rise the bow and then come down on the draw to where I want to hit.

I'm not totally understanding what you mean by your arm kicking up shots. Are you flicking the bow upwards as you shoot, like you're flinching before you loose the string?

Afterward. On release, my arm kicks up. It's not on every shot but it happens very often.

Without seeing a video, I'm having to guess/envision what's going on here, so forgive me if my guesses are totally off. Is the bow swinging back at you like it the upper limb is going to hit you in the head? If so, I'm guessing you're shooting barebow and don't have weights (nor stabilizers of course). The solution is to add barebow weights to move the center of mass of your bow forward so it wants to stay straight (or fall forward slightly) upon release. The other possibility is something off with your posture or front shoulder. I haven't really seen what you've described before. Usually the bow arm drops after the shot (archer is peeking) or goes left or right (bad alignment, not coming to full draw and transferring to hold/poor back tension, or arching the back or leaning too far forward along the shooting line). Up is a new one for me. Actually could this be related to your aiming low and then raising the bow to your aim point? I wonder if you are doing a "drive by shooting", meaning you're moving the bow as you're shooting. If you're aiming low and then driving by upwards, then your followthrough on your bow arm is going to continue that upward motion. Speaking of which, yes, you want to aim high and drop the bow into your aiming spot. Don't come up from underneath. To fix this: 1. Avoid "bowling". This is where you begin your "set" with the bow at a low ready, and then raise and draw the bow at the same time. 2. Side note -- Avoid the opposite, "fishing". This is where you set, then set up way above your head, then sky draw as you lower the bow onto the target. This will get you thrown out of tournaments btw as it is unsafe. 3. DO set, then set up at eye level. Pretend you want to aim at the top edge of the target. Draw. Then as you reach anchor, you can lower your bow arm to lower the bow onto the center of the target (or whereever you aim point is).

I don't exactly remember how to post a video without the app. I remember using a site to upload but not exactly which one. It most likely is because of drive by shooting, although on some of the shots, there is a pause before I release (while I'm aiming upward) I had to compare my videos to older videos (even though my form was much worse then, at least I was on target) I noticed my draw elbow was significantly higher than previously, the elbow is nowhere near alignment with the arrow ...ugh. This is most likely why I'm aiming low yes? It put me in such a mental battle. The downside of self learning is not knowing when bad habits form. Really blows. Overall im sure its an alignment issue. Ill try my hardest to fix it. I'm not sure if I'm sky drawing, I usually don't start drawing until I'm halfway down with the bow arm. If that's a sky draw then thanks for awaring me, regardless I'll only raise to eye level from here on. Gonna take all this info with me to the range later and see if I can overcome my woes 💪 And thank you as well, you most likely saved me future shoulder pain by pointing out alignment issues

Looking to buy a new bow as a beginner. Looking to get some advice/feedback for the gear that I'm looking to buy. riser - WNS Delta NX - heard it was a pretty good starter/intermediate riser, and should last awhile limbs - WNS Explore B1 28# - starter limbs, quite cheap and read somewhere that they felt better than the W1s, so going for this one rest - Shibuya Ultima - wanted one that lasted a long time (also is there any benefit in buying this over hoyt super rest? Any advice would be nice) plunger - Shibuya DX - chose it because of the beginner reddit thread that said it was good sight - WNS SJA-50 stabiliser - Avalon Tec X 22mm rod string - Fastflight Any and all feedback is appreciated!

As a fellow beginner (started in May), I've been using the WNS Delta NX for a couple months now, and been very happy with it!

String wise I would say BCY 8125 would be a better option that lasts https://reign-bowstrings.com/product/bcy-8125/

Shibuya Ultima is my favorite rest. Shibuya DX is the go-to plunger option. The only real next step up is the Beiter, but it's a big step up in cost, and what you get is graduated settings (whereas the Shibuya DX is analog). Most recreational archers aren't going to get a ton of value out of that feature, so this is a fine pick. Your sight makes me a bit nervous. I haven't used that one but anything under $100 is likely a waste of money entirely.

Agree with this. I shoot with the Shibuya Ultima rest and it is my favorite. I went through 4 others before trying this one and it is sweet. Also agree on the sight. A sight is one thing you should invest in because if you get a good one you’ll never outgrow it. The problem with most low cost sights is they are hard to adjust and often vibrate loose losing your settings. I love my Shibuya Ultima RC 2. And look around - you can sometimes find these used at really good prices.

Thanks for your response! Sight-wise, this comes as a recommendation from a trusted source, but in the event that I choose to use something else, would you have a recommendation for another sight?

Shibuya Dual Click

👆 100% Doesn't break the bank and will last you forever.

What draw weight limbs would you buy for a beginner with: * 27” riser * long limbs = 72” bow * 31.5” draw length. Am I right in saying, aim for about 25# Deduct 2# for the 27” riser Add 7# for the longer draw length So buy 20# limbs? Or is that too low?

That sounds about right. There will be some variation, but it’ll get you within a couple pounds.

That does sound about reasonable if you're targeting 25 pounds (which I think is good, lots of people try to start out too heavy). An ILF bow will give you a couple pounds of flexibility in either direction, too, by tightening or loosening the limb bolts. If you've got a range nearby and make some friends, you might be able to borrow something that light.

Thanks mate! >If you've got a range nearby and make some friends, you might be able to borrow something that light. Are you from Australia by any chance? I’m finding this part hard. The introductory course I did at my range was good but ever since, I’ve found Australia a difficult place for archery in general. Hardly any shops and just not much going on at ranges in terms of people to talk to and second hand gear sales etc. It’s like archery just isn’t very popular here. Maybe I need to try a different range.

I'm not in Australia, sorry! Unfortunately I think target archery is a fairly niche sport, so it can be harder to find a community. I've found a community here by having a fairly fixed schedule where I go to the indoor range the same times every week, and tend to run into the same people. I've gone from getting to know 'the regulars' to becoming one of 'the regulars'. It took time, though, for sure, multiple months! People are gonna want to see you around a bunch before they start offering to loan you stuff. :-) If you have other ranges in close-ish proximity, it doesn't hurt to drop in and see what they're like.

New Archer here I heard about Peep sights and thought about getting one put onto my new Mandarin Duck Phantom mainly because I thought it would help me learn to Aim as well as I want to shoot in my back yard and my parents don't think I should in fear I might miss the target and hit the neighbors house. I went to a shop and was buying some arrows and had the peep sight in hand and the guy at the counter told me "No one who shoots recurve bows shoot peep sights you don't need it" On one hand props for this dude not just trying to make a sale but still It also just kinda felt like abit of a slap in the face. Should I not get a peep sight?

I think a peep might even hurt your aim more. It also requires a compound bow sight. The shop guy put it pretty bluntly but saved you a lot of trouble, essentially trying to Frankenstein a bow. You can definitely get a recurve sight, learn how to use it and that'll help your consistency. You dont need a peep for that. Just the correct anchor point. There are also a few styles of aiming just with your arrow tip. Gap shooting would be the easiest to learn. I do want to emphasize adding a sight on a recurve bow won't magically improve your aim.

Also, check you local laws about shooting in your back yard. Some places treat archery like shooting guns in your yard. From a different perspective, imagine shooting towards your own house. If your target and backstop aren't enough to make you feel comfortable doing that, then perhaps you need more backstop, or a different location.

You should not get a peep sight

Olympic recurve | how does one know if a grip modification is needed? Saw videos online where people use putty to modify a grip. But how does one exactly feel or see the need to modify the grip?

This is a personal preference thing. I honestly like the default grip on my Hoyt. I just wrap tennis grip tape on it and that's it. Try things out and see what you like.

Hey guys, was looking into buying a recurve for my first bow, and had a question. What exactly makes a riser 'beginner-friendly'? Went to my local archery store, and they said they recommended the Explore B1 as a 'beginner's riser', however after asking the coach at my range, I was told to shoot with any riser, so long as I liked it, whether that be a $100 one or a $500 one. So now, I'm not sure what to do. Do I buy a cheap one and upgrade it later, or do I go for a more expensive one that I might not have to replace for awhile? u/FerrumVeritas's guide says that a good forged aluminium riser means that I shouldn't need to replace it for awhile, if ever, but I still have some doubts in my head just because of the staff that I talked to at the archery store. Thanks in advance!

Nothing makes a riser beginner friendly except price. In fact, some cheaper risers are actually less beginner friendly. The reason lower priced risers are recommended is because you may not be sure you’ll stick with the sport to warrant the higher investment. I started with a WNS Motive and it’s a good riser. But when I switched to the Inno CXT I noticed how much easier it was to tune. Better tune = more forgiving = IMO, easier to shoot.

Totally this. Aaaand because beginners sometimes accidentally drop their bow when they forget their finger sling. Not that I'm speaking from experience or anything. \*nervous laugh\*

Is there problem shooting a (bare)bow longer than I am tall? I am 163cm (or 64inches) tall and shoot a 25inch riser with medium limbs making it 68inch bow. I recently realized that the thing is longer than I am tall. Should I downsize to 23inch riser?

IMO you’re fine. My wife shoots a 68” bow and is 62” tall. Height does not determine bow length. Usually your first bow is determined by your draw length more than anything for target recurve bows. Hunters use shorter bows because longer ones are simply unwieldy in the woods.

Does anyone have any good *written* resources for arrows rest/plunger tuning? I have a hard time sitting through the videos for it and today I noticed I was getting streaks on my matte riser even though I have a rest. (Spigarelli ZT). Also saw a bunch of flakes around that area, not sure if it's from equipment or flaking foam from the butt at the range. Color would point to it being the foam (pink/orange), but still unsure. :P Also for folks with a home foam target - how loud is the impact? Tried shooting a styrofoam/cardboard box at home from about 1m and it was like gunfire lol.

http://www.tenzone.org.uk/Equipment/tuning/pdfs/t2_fine.pdf

Thanks for all the resources! I'm now even slightly more confused... I went out to the range today after playing around with my plunger, and it caused all my shots to veer left (I'm right handed). Taking the plunger completely off, I got center shot (or as close as my skill level would allow). My understanding that too stiff of a spring or having the plunger stick too far out is what causes it to go left. If I do put the plunger back in with less tension/protrusion, would I still be aiming right of center?

If you're shooting barebow, go through the Eccentric Arrow link.

https://dicktonearchery.com/a-little-history-of-the-cushion-plunger/

https://www.eccentricarrow.com/post/producing-perfect-plunger-position-pressure-by-matt-reesman

This is probably a really stupid question but I'm a newbie and losing my mind over my new (secondhand) bow. I've got a PSE Perform x 3D and the yoke splitter is leaning towards right which is causing (I think?) the cable on the right of the yoke splitter to almost slide from the cam binary. What should I do?

Take it to a shop and have a bowtech look at it. If you think it's going to slide off the cam, do not use it.

How much does brace height affect shot placement? Can 1 inch brace height difference make a difference between a shot landing high a low? Trying to figure out an issue I have and hoping I can tune my way out before just sucking it up and learning to aim better with my bear grizzly. (I shoot instinctive so muscle memory is making it so hard to adjust with this bow)

Well, it depends, mostly on you specific setup and distance, but yes, the brace height does affect arrow speed. The arrow is only being accelerated as long as it is I contact with the string, the moment it decouples, it starts to deccellerate The lower brace height allows the arrow to stay on the string longer and therefore achieve greater acceleration. For trad/instinctive you'd probably just want a comfortable brace height so that the hand shock doesn't rattle you around too much.

Is there any way to make a worn center serving thicker to accomodate a nock that's slightly larger? Context is that I replaced the factory 6.5mm Easton super nocks with 6.5mm Easton 3D super nock. The old nocks still click on, but the new nocks seems slightly larger and only clicks onto the non-worn parts of the center serving. It seems hella dangerous to use the new nocks as-is, but is there a way to do so without reserving my entire center serving? Maybe repairing the center serving nock point with super glue or something?

I would not use super glue. It is brittle and does not do well with flexing or shear forces. Remove the old serving, then re-serve with thicker serving thread. If that is still not enough, you can place a short piece of serving string running lengthwise along the string and serve over that. If it really is that bad though, you should make note to get a thicker string upon your next replacement.

Ok, good to know I can't use my new nocks. The sad part is that the new nock fits fine on any other part of the center serving, just not where the nock point is. My old nocks were too tight and worn down the center serving to fit. When I re-serve the center serving I'll find out from the manufacturer what Dia serving to use, since factory spec is fine if new.

Man whoever said buying equipment doesn't help is crazy! Shot my own gear for the first time tonight and managed to consistently hit red/gold at 12m instead of groupings at random places. I do run into issues with my tab though (yost tab)- it seems to occasionally slide along my finger at release even though the cord is already tight. Anyone know what might be causing it? I trimmed it a bit beforehand but it could be shorter.

Totally agree. Accuracy/precision is limited by the archer's skill *and* the gear. It's true that extremely expensive equipment isn't going to significantly help a beginner, so for most people it's a waste of money to get top of the line stuff. But crappy gear, or even good gear that's out of tune, will hold you back when you reach a certain skill level. It irks me just a little bit when people say "y'know, buddy, it's not about the gear. See, archery is all about form. Alllllllllllll about form," because it's actually not. Spend a day shooting arrows that are several spines too stiff and see how you feel about that platitude. Our club bows are good enough to shoot 10 yards indoors. By the time we're ready to move our beginners to 20 yards, the equipment becomes a factor.

Yeah, it definitely raises your ceiling. Really basic gear can be limiting. At least at my range, most of the club bows are not super well tuned and the rest, string, etc may be getting a bit worn out. There are a couple of standouts at our range that are really nice to shoot, but you've gotta find 'em (and hope no one messes with them week to week!) I've shot within 15 points of my PB with my favorite shop bow, but might struggle to get within 60 points of my PB with any random shop bow. As the tab breaks in, it'll probably get more comfortable and molded to your hand. They're honestly kind of stiff at first. After a while it'll be like an old friend. Also for the Yost tab, you can get one of [these](https://jagerarchery.com/product/barebow-conversion-kit/). I think they work with the standard aluminum backed tabs. (They sell them already assembled with the Yost brass tab, too, and they're super nice)

1. Why is the second-hand market for limbs so small? Do they wear out? 2. Why is every archery shop in my city so focussed on compound bows and hunting? I would have thought way more people are into recurve target archery based on my observations.

\#1 is at least partially because of #2. Archery is almost entirely supported by hunting, and therefore compound. If bowhunting went away, quite a few archery companies would likely go out of business. I think hunters put in a few weeks of practice here and there over the year and then go out and hunt, so you don't see them at the indoor ranges where you'd see "the regulars" who do recurve target archery for the sport of it. Recurve limbs don't really wear out, no. It's possible that some of the limbs get traded/sold by people who get to know each other at the club/range. I know that I've sold or loaned several of my lower poundage limbs to new archers at my local range. There's also a buy/sell bulletin board where limbs get posted occasionally. Especially in JOAD/youth programs where you're working closely with a coach and you're outgrowing your limbs, your coach probably knows half a dozen other people who are ready for them. There are some that show up on ebay and archerytalk, too.

Thanks mate! I really don’t want to buy something new and low quality if I’m not going to be using it for long and will be going up in lbs soon after. I thought there would be an abundance of discarded lower lbs limbs but it seems not!

If there's a local club you've been shooting at and have gotten to know some regulars, you could put some feelers out that you wanted to buy some lighter weight starter limbs. I know at my range, there are like a dozen people with 24 pound limbs and a SF Forged+ (Or WNS Motive) riser collecting dust in the closet.

Thank you again! I’ve only shot a few times so far with introductory courses so haven’t had a chance to just shoot in my own time and chat to people.

So I practice at home once in a while with a 30lb recurve into my target bag but only at 6 meters. My newest bow (bear grizzly) sends the arrows into the bag much harder than my other 30lb recurve. No big deal, I assume since my bag is holding up well and stops the arrows no problem. My question is, would it be bad to shoot a 3D target at 6meters with my Grizzly? I feel like shooting a much denser target at such a short distance could possibly harm my arrows from the hard impact. (Am I underestimating these targets and the durability of a carbon arrow? Most likely 😅) I have to ask to be safe. I just want to switch it up and shoot a 3D target once in a while at home for fun. Even if only at 6m.

If a target is safe to catch an arrow at long distance, it's safe at short distance. Yes, arrows lose speed, but the safety factor should be so high that it's fine. I think some 3d courses have extremely short distance targets (3 yards? 5 yards), so the targets need to be capable for arrows from a compound bow at that distance. So I don't expect any problem for you. Edit: spelling

My son has been getting into archery this year, taking classes and he seems to be getting serious about it and wants to start going to some competitions. I know nothing about archery, so I don't even know the right questions to ask, but the general question is... what kind of bow should I get him? I'm not opposed to spending money for something that is worth it and he will use for a while. He's 11. I'm assuming he's still of an age where he will grow out of a bow, so I don't want to spend too much. But I want something maybe that will last him until he needs to upgrade to something more... "permanent." If that's a thing in archery. So, I guess the questions are... 1. What questions should I be asking/getting answers to? 2. What is a good bow for a beginner that will last him until he \*needs\* to upgrade. Not something that we'll need to replace before he gets to the next level of development.

If he’s taking classes (good start!) then why not talk to the instructor? He’ll probably outgrow whatever bow you get him, but some things he won’t outgrow (example: for compound and recurve, a good sight lasts forever). For youth archers, there are four broad options in the US: Compound. This is a full, fairly high tech bow with all of the advanced accessories like sights with scopes, release aids, stabilizers, etc. It’s not cheap, but an affordable bow with quality accessories can be a decent investment. In some cases, the accessories indicate the competitive class. By sheer numbers, this is the most popular type of shooting in the US. Compounds are also the primary way people hunt with a bow. For “fixed pins” you’re looking at about $600 for a full setup (bow, case, arrows, release, accessories). For “freestyle” (the most popular category) you’re looking at about $1100 (the sight and scope are a big component of that cost). These bows will grow with him that longest, as they’re the most adjustable without replacing things. You can start with Fixed Pins and transition to freestyle as you upgrade accessories. Recurve. This is the Olympic type of archery, and arguably the most athletic. It uses sights and stabilizers because they’re needed for the kind of precision you see at the long distances recurve archers shoot. For a youth setup, I’d expect to spend about $600. There are components he’ll outgrow, but generally at different rates. Barebow. This is a recurve without all of the accessories. It’s the fastest growing category, partially because it’s super accessible. Colleges always need barebow archers to round out their teams (if they have a team). A full youth setup can be done for around $300. NASP. NASP is national archery in the schools. This is a pretty insular program, but it hosts huge youth competitions and can be a ton of fun. The equipment is standardized, so it feels very fair. I have mixed feelings on NASP, partially because it doesn’t really lead to any of the kinds of archery he’d do as an older teen and adult.

0) Welcome to Archery! 1) This write-up, and others in the old format sidebar will be helpful for you to get some extra perspective of things to think about and questions to ask. [https://old.reddit.com/r/archery/wiki/guides/beginning](https://old.reddit.com/r/archery/wiki/guides/beginning) A direct list of questions would be: What kind of bow does he like shooting (Compound, Olympic Recurve (curvy, with stabilizer sticks and sights), Barebow (curvy, no sights or stabilizers), Traditional (a just a stick and a string), or something else (horse bows, Asiatic bows, etc)? What kind of competition does he think is interesting? If he doesn't have an informed opinion that's fine. There are competitions to shoot paper circles ('paper'), and competitions to shoot molded rubber animals ('3-D Archery'). Some competitions have everyone stand on a line and shoot the same target the whole time ('target'). Others have a kind of walking course where you have different targets that you only shoot once ('field archery'). The place where he's taken some classes should have folks with ideas of what competitions are local to you. They might even have a 'starter' competition like a local league night or some other way for him to dip his toes in without investing a whole weekend at something intimidating. Indoor competitions are simpler to join for a newcomer because of the shorter competition distance. What can you do to continue incubating this as a fun and engaging activity for your archer? All youth sports are primarily about developing healthy well-adjusting people. Consider picking up a bow yourself. Or consider volunteering to help at the events he goes to. ​ 2) The three ways that archers grow out of bows are from physically getting stronger (or weaker -- life goes in all directions), developing better skill level to benefit from more precisely-adjustable equipment, and from changing interests (to other bow types, or losing interest in archery). The typical advice for any beginner or any age is to borrow or rent their first bow from a club or shop where they take lessons and practice. Archery muscles and technique are so weird that the type of bow that is good to begin with is usually ready to be shelved within a month or two. So it's better for the shop or club to own that one, not the archer. Sometimes, the same holds for the 2nd bow. Then you can plan around buying the 3rd bow. By then you'll have a sense of which kinds of archery are holding interest, and see which kinds of bows are being used. Permanent archery equipment can be a thing -- bows made of modern materials don't really wear out. But your archer will be changing a lot in the next 10 years, so don't empty the bank account on the first purchase. Compound bows tend to be sold as one unit. Recurve and Barebows are easier to mix-and-match. "ILF" style limbs and risers (the part you hold) will all mostly work with each other. It's common to keep a riser for a while and switch the limbs to different lengths and weights as needed. Used equipment is perfectly viable. Clubs with lots of youth archers are constantly reselling bows as they are out-grown or as kids leave archery for other activities. Some shops also resell bows on consignment.

What does your son want? What style? (compound, barebow recurve, olympic recurve). Need to figure that out first. For recurve, a lightweight 25 inch ILF riser (wns motive FX?) and light limbs. You can keep upgrading limbs as he grows. This'll work for barebow or OR. For compound, maybe get an Elite Ember. Draw weight from 10-60 pounds. Might last him all the way though adulthood.

I made a nocking point out of hockey tape my brass one was out of line, is using hockey tape okay?

You should learn to tie a nocking point in. Serving material is the best, but any synthetic thread can do in a pinch

Hockey tape will do in a pinch as an emergency nocking point, but it probably won't be durable enough for the long term. Good news, you can [tie one](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ThfCrOCy51M) with serving thread, or even unwaxed dental floss, or really any thick-ish synthetic thread.

Barebow form question - (sorry for all the recent questions! Didn't get a chance to make it out to the range with the new bow, so I've just been trying things at home). Now that I switched to a 68in bow from 66, I finally get the string touching my nose when I anchor at corner of mouth. However, I notice now that the bottom half touches the base of my ribs. Is this to be expected, or should I be bending a bit more forward? I also ran into an incident of my drawing arm's shoulder experiencing pain on drawback (just once and not a regular occurrence)- what form failure might cause this? Just wanted to be aware of it and to keep it in mind if I experience it again.

There’s enough there that sounds weird that I’d hesitate to give advice without seeing it

As far as the string touching your ribs - this could be just fine. It’s why recurve archers wear chest guards. Not to protect their chest, but to ensure the string leaves cleanly and doesn’t get caught up in their clothing. However, you might want to also check your posture. During your “set” step, slightly drop your chest and slightly roll your hips under you. This creates a flat back and is theoretically a more stable body posture. I’m not a doctor and without seeing what happened with your shoulder, I could only speculate. But the most likely cause is you raised your shoulder. You must use your lats to hold down your shoulder during the entire shot process. If it comes up, you’re not “stacked” and relying on soft tissue to resist the forces exerted by the bow.

**Finger Tabs** I’m just starting out. Any issues with buying a good finger tab (used for string walking) as my first? It would mean having to practice as a beginner with 3 fingers under the arrow. Is this an issue?

There’s no reason to use a bad tab. I recommend a Yost tab for 90% of barebow shooters. I have mixed feelings about really expensive tabs like the Zniper. It could be great, and I’ll probably use a version of it this indoor season, but it’s not quite right out of the box

At least at my range, the beginners start with barebow style - 3-under with a finger tab (but no stringwalking taught in the very beginner classes). If you're planning on shooting OR soon you might want a cheapie tab, but if you're planning on shooting barebow, then you should just start out with a nicer barebow specific tab. (Like a yost, or the cordovan bicaster)

What's a quick fix for being overbowed? I was drawing 24# alright with the club bows, and I bought 24# limbs for my own, but it feels *much* harder to draw. I've been doing form practice at home and I'm getting fatigued in like 10 mins, versus an hour at the range. I'm using a 25in Gillo G1 with medium limbs, and the manual says the brace height should go up to 9 1/4. I'm currently using 9.5. I had the string setup at a shop and they said the string might be a bit too short, but it should eventually lengthen itself. Would there be a noticeable difference if I try to untwist to lower the brace height? The .25 above recommended doesn't seem like it's that substantial of a difference.

Gillo G1 allows up to +-30% change in draw weight via the tiller bolts. That is one of the advantages of having a Gillo. Additionally, different limb manufacturers measure draw weight differently. Some measure maximum weight with the bolts all the way in or all the way out or in the middle. Very few manufacturers are transparent about this so comparing 24# limbs from one manufacturer to another is not an exact science. Get a luggage scale and you can measure the exact draw weight on your bow at your draw length.

Thank you! Would you recommend a novice try doing this? I read about it in another thread and they lost track of the position (along with people saying taking it out x amount voids warranty), and I'd have no idea how to fix that lol.

Moving the tiller bolts is an important part of tuning your bow so you should learn how it works on your riser. This is what [the GT manual](http://www.gilloarchery.it/_iserv/dlfiles/dl.php?ddl=gillo-gt-riser-manuale-en-500.pdf) says re: how far you can move the tiller bolts "Pockets of the limbs are set at factory at neutral position corresponding to 15% angle of their internal surface and -4 turns from maximum poundage. You can unload the precharges bolts of five full turns in order to adjust tiller or to lower poundage (total excursion, +4 to – 5 turns in full safety)."

Since the G1 is an ILF bow, you have some adjustment in the draw weight. You'd want to check the manual to be sure, but on most ILF bows you can unscrew the limb bolts by about 6 turns from the all-the-way-in position. So if your limb bolts came from the factory halfway in, you can make them 3 turns looser. This will remove some of the tension from the limbs and make them \~1.5-2 pounds lighter. That doesn't sound like a ton but can make a big difference. This'll make your brace height even taller though, with the limb bolts dialed out. I like a longer brace height but much over 9.5 is probably too high, so if you can remove some twists in the string to keep it between 9.25-9.5 your bow will probably be happier. A taller brace height does make the limbs a little heavier, also, so it's possible that the long brace height is adding some weight to your bow.

Also as an additional dumb question - what are y'alls thoughts on doing dumbbell curls with the stringer? 😂 setting up the string was already a workout for me and I recently cancelled my gym membership.

Try to lift more with your legs instead of your arm or back. It definitely helps to put two feet in the stringer instead of just one foot.

Thank you! When I was watching the tutorials, they said to pull straight up and I pulled just with my arms (and ended up pulling something too lol). I tried again while focusing on lifting with the legs and it was muuuch easier. I'm also running into a bit of an issue with the string loop occasionally getting caught sideways along the limb when I push it up which causes the string to rise up on the side of the limb. (Imagine the loop being oval and it's stuck on its side refusing to rotate back to vertical) Do you know if this is just an issue of it being a stiff new string?

From what that second part sounds like, that's common, nearly mandatory. The loop will be stiff and oval, and I think it's done that with every bow I've ever used. Once I have some slack created with the stringer, I pull the bowstring from the 'y' at the bottom of the top loop. Since that is sideways, that starts on the side closest to me. (I make sure to unstring it towards me.) With that grip, I can quickly slide the skinny part of the loop into the groove where it should be. Then by slowly letting the stringer relax, the bowstring stays in place. Hopefully there's a technique something like that that will work for you, too.

Thank you! Man, now that you mentioned it, it seems like such a no-brainer to lead it by the Y instead of just sliding along the top like I was doing. Thanks again!

Everything seems obvious in hindsight, but I'm sure I did it a hard way until someone showed me, too.

How does the World Cup work? Does everyone have to start in stage 1? Do you have to win each stage in order to get to the next one? Like if you loose in stage 1 or 2, does that end your World Cup season?

https://www.worldarchery.sport/news/200661/what-hyundai-archery-world-cup-facts-figures-and-schedule

Budget isn’t an issue for me, but I obviously don’t wanna go all in on first buy, so how much would y’all say I’d be safe spending to get something that isn’t bad? (I’d prefer compound but not against recurve)

For the bow itself, I would recommend something between $700 and 1200 for most people. I know that’s a big range, but there’s a lot of room in there

If you haven't touched a bow before, I'd only recommend spending the gas money to get to a club or shop to try out a variety of bows. There are huge differences, and nobody else can tell you what you will like. You're looking at at least $200-$300 for a kit that's safe, but what's 'bad' is a personal decision. You can spend as much more than that as you'd like to. Fancy bows can be $2,000-$3,000+ .

How do I prevent my string from turning on the side while stringing? The loop is pretty stiff (not sure if that'll change down the line) and it tends to catch and spin towards the side, which makes trying to rotate it back down to catch the indents a pain in the ass. Also- I'm getting friction burn on my drawing hand from the thing that attaches to the clip on the Astra trainer. (The flat tassel thingies). Anyone know what might be causing this?

How do I buy a string for my bow? If I’m doing a 27” riser + long limbs for a 72” bow, how do I choose a string? Will I select 72” or something less? I’ve heard I should avoid dacron but otherwise, everything else is fine for a beginner. Is this true?

From \*most\* places, you'll buy a 72 inch string, or more accurately a "72 inch AMO" string. That string will actually be something like 69-ish inches long. If you're buying from an archery shop like Lancaster or Merlin or whatever, this is the most likely way it will be labeled. If you're buying from a custom stringmaker, they might want more exact measurements, or they might sell the string by the actual length. But if you're working with a custom stringmaker, they'll probably ask what riser and limbs you are using, and will make the string accordingly. re: what kind of string to buy, a lot of recurve archers like BCY 8125 strings. (That's what I've been shooting since I started \~1.5 years ago). As you get more familiar with archery, you might start to develop preferences about your string/serving -- how many strands, how the nocks fit, what kind of serving material it's wrapped with, etc. For example, I get all of my strings made by [ocdstrings.com](https://ocdstrings.com) and she makes them exactly how I like them - 16 strands, made to fit Beiter #2 nocks, with BCY PowerGrip for the serving because that works so well for stringwalking. Plus she has all of the colors so I can always get a string to match my bow/fletching colors! :-)

Thanks so much for taking the time to explain this so well :) I’ve saved the comment for when it’s time to get my string

Where do you usually buy used equipment? Ebay?

I've purchased a few things from ebay and it's gone OK. I bought my Gillo G1 riser there and am forever grateful. But in general the selection there is pretty limited, especially for recurve stuff. The vast majority is compound/hunting focused -- which, honestly, is true for archery in general. Also their sorting algorithm is terrible, I don't know how a company is incapable of getting "reverse sort by time listed" correct, but they manage to screw it up. I've probably bought (and sold) more equipment from other folks at the local range. There's also the ArcheryTalk marketplace forum. I think there are some rules there where they'd like you to be an active member in the forum before you buy and sell stuff. (Which I guess makes sense, since there's a need to build some trust and invest in the community)

eBay has been disappointing for me. Search for Facebook groups in your city. Otherwise, your club will have people buying and selling things. (Please correct me if I’m wrong. I’m very much a beginner but trying reduce wastage so looking into this myself)

looking to get my first good set of arrows, and had a few questions about my idea (30" 650 skylon paragons for ~27#otf, 28.5 DL) 1) does that sound about right/does the skylon chart run a bit stiff/weak? 2) my draw weight is progressing, should I reduce the point weight 100->90->80 when the arrow starts acting weak in bareshaft tests? or what should i start at? 3) at what point have you "outgrown" arrows, just when you can't get them to stop tuning weak?

Too stiff. Skylon’s chart uses carbon-to-carbon measurements. So that would be a 30.5” arrow. If you’re using a clicker, that’s pretty long. The shaft will end 3.75” past your plunger. The point is almost another inch longer. For reference, I use 29.5 (29” C2C), 100gr point, 600 spine arrows for 38.5#. Skylon’s chart says 700-650. Err on the side of weak not stiff. You can make it stiffer by trimming. And that seems quite stiff to me still. Easton recommends 720 with a 100gr point. I’m tempted to recommend that you go with a 29” arrow and an 80gr point. You’d want 900-850 spine for that. But it would work better for you outdoors for 70m. If you want to stick with a 30” arrow, then I’d go with a 750 I know it sucks, but you’ll probably change arrows every time you change limbs (assuming you get limbs that are 4-6# heavier).

thanks for the info! really helps

Finally getting a bow as a b-day present soon and suddenly becoming aware that I have no "real" knowledge of archery as a whole. Where should I go to get started?

what type of bow ? compound, olympic recurved , barebow or trad ? From my own personal experience. Before i bought my compound bow, I watch a lot of youtube videos about the basics of compound bow, how to draw it, how to fire it with out the string slapping my arm etc. etc. When i went to a pro shop, I ask more question on gear, and where to find a place to shot. At the Range people share their knowledge with me as they could see i was struggling with the basics.

Well... The present is supposed to be a surprise, so I don't know what kind they got. I just kinda figured out what it was, so I wanted to have at least *some* knowledge before I picked it up and started firing. I *was* going to set up a backyard target but that appears to be frowned on for obvious reasons. I should probably use the nearby field for practice... when there aren't kids around to harass me.

If they haven't already bought the bow yet, then the far better option would be for you to ask them for something that isn't a bow! If they've got a budget in mind then it would be a much better idea for the present to be a trip to an archery store to see what you like, to find the right bow for you, and getting you set up properly. Either that or paying for a beginners course at a local archery club so you can learn how to shoot safely, with the correct technique, and find out whether you actually enjoy it before sinking loads of money in to it.

What's done is done, mate. Whatever they've got, they got it a while ago, and I'll have to find "the right bow" for me another time, when I have money to spend.

Smart. you will miss or lose a few arrows when you first start but don't be discourage when you get in the zone it beautiful and addictive.

Hello I'm new to Archery and I recently bought a recurve. I put the other half of the string on the recurve with a stringer and it make a click noise. Is that normal. Thanks.

Could you take a video? Does it happen every time? It can be normal for ILF limbs to click/settle into place a little bit.

I'm not sure. I'm a bit afraid to take the string off just incase something happens to the bow. Its a samick sage if that helps. when I pull back on the string there's no sounds. It was literally right as I put on the last end of the string.

Severely underestimated the "try before you buy" advice since all the club bows felt pretty similar. 😂 The G1 is a CHUNKY monster. For the first time limb setups should I be tightening the bolts? Or is rattling limbs out of the box not normal? Edit: oops, just saw Nusensei's video on it, question solved!

If you think it's heavy now, just wait til you throw all the weights on there :-) Welcome to the Gillo cult!

Haha, thanks man! Seriously regretting canceling my gym membership to afford my archery range sessions now! 😂

Is it a dumb idea to buy some of those foam arrows to practice indoor? My bow finally arrives tomorrow and I bought an Astra trainer along with it. My plan was to go out to the indoor range once a week (my only availability) and train when I can with the Astra, but I was wondering if I could shoot around my apartment using LARP arrows or something similar. I know it wouldn't be much of an accurate representation, but I was thinking it'd be a way to switch up with just training with the Astra. Do y'all think they still pack too much of a punch to shoot around in an apartment?

There's nothing to gain from this. Aside from the foam arrows still having considerable punch and bouncing around, you're not training anything that you can't do from SPTs or using the Astra Shot Trainer.

It would be a complete waste of time. If you do want to practice at home without using the Astra then what you could do is buy a proper target and use scaled target faces. I often used to practice at about 5m using target faces scaled to give the same sight picture as I would have on a 40cm target at 18m. It was in a spare bedroom, with a door that I could lock, and a wall behind the target that was solid enough to stop an arrow if I did miss. If you've got a similar space you could use then that would be a better option. Proper foam target, scaled target faces, and you'd be able to get some actual useful practice in.

I am super tempted to, the main thing I'm worried about is that I still get occasional strays. Since I'm renting, a hole in the wall is the last thing I want lol. I'll stick with the Astra for now I guess!

Your apartment, your rules... Just bear in mind that the foam arrow heads still can break something (a glass window, that vase your wife really likes, the new 60" TV), especially if they're shot with a bow that has more than 10# draw weight. As far as their relevance for training is concerned... no. I think if you squint enough then maybe there would be a situation they might be useful for training a completely new archer... but you've got Astra, so stick with it for training purposes. Foam heads are for LARP and for having stupid fun (stupid as in something/someone might get hurt).

Forever single so it's just a matter of property damage. 😂 I'll err on the side of caution then, ty!

I'm afraid I already know the answer, but when buying side rods for stabilizers (e.g. [these 12"](https://ramrodsarchery.com/collections/target/products/ultra-v3?variant=45506814935340)), the price is for an individual side rod and not for a pair?

Yes

Thank you 😭