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That happened to me too. The shop is so paranoid of breaking shit that they gave up at the first sign of resistance, declaring I needed a new tie rod. I buy said tie rod (not returnable because Honda sucks) and when i took it to my buddy to change out shocks I was going to have him replace the tie rod. He broke it loose with very little effort and muttered the same thing under his breath: “pussies…”
Had a similar experience at Canadian Tire. Lmao. They couldn't get something loose and said they could try but will probably break it. I waited a week and got it into my regular mechanic and had no issues.
God that looks so clean. Lived in NYS for 2 yrs and my nuts and rod looked like Dave Chappelle in that crack skit b/c of the salt. Took 3 minutes with a butane touch to move the nut. I think I can get yours off by hand. The shop you went to might be staffed with retarded people. I mean the medical definition of mentally retarded, so I commend you for going there and supporting our special needs neighbors. I can tell you have a kind soul.
i think you meant to reply to OP’s post, not my comment… but yes i completely agree, there’s absolutely no rust. And even if there was rust, a shop that even has a little bit of qualifications should be able to get it loose no problem. That shop is full of degenerates.
Interestingly enough the guys were trying it but I saw a massive spark and then they told me they couldn’t do it, he was a bit novice… should get my Ford dealer to take a look…
Just not him. Lacking in tools/knowledge/experience/strength. I pray for lock nuts this easy. Give him another chance, and he will damage the outer tie rod
Edit: miscommunication. Op unsure what the mechanic was referring to due to a language barrier. Which makes a lot more fucking sense lol
IMO there is no need to do this yourself. If you crack open the lock nut you can't do the alignment yourself anyway. Do not do their work for them. Instead go to an actual competent shop.
Yeah, this a very common issue with tie rods. They should expect that they will have to heat and cheat.
I've done a lot of alignments in my day. And about 50% of them needed extra oomph.
You just need someone with more experience.
It's only if there is a need to reset the steering angle sensor, which if out of calibration can cause all kinds of odd issues like ABS activating for no reason( seen this in person after doing a rack and pinion and not resetting steering angle because there was no lights or instructions on a newer Tacoma) and if by computer they mean the alignment machine that gives you numbers, then yes, that is required for precision adjustments. My machine shows hundredths of an inch and tenths of degrees, way to fine for a tape measure.
The only time I've seen an alignment done without an alignment machine was in racecars that drive like shit anyway.
As for any other fancy computer, I don't know what they're talking about.
What I've seen, you do a couple of rally stages, and then have 40 minutes to wrench before going out again. Changing hitting a semi-bent tie rod with a hammer a couple of times and moving it so the wheel looks straight is good enough for the next 3 stages, maybe even good enough for the whole weekend.
I've done a hillbilly alignment. Two pieces of sheet metal. Two tape measures. Tape. It will get the Toe to a drivable level. Handles fine, and tires show no wear. I'm going on 5 years now on a Dodge truck. I keep meaning to get a proper alignment.
(I went to automotive school, but I'm still very cheap.).
Go to a real shop. They aren't it. The dealer won't give you a good alignment they will just get it "in the green." I'd ask a Ford (any car brand really) enthusiast forum for a good alignment guy in your area if you want it perfect.
Find a local autoX/track racing group and ask them to recommend a good alignment guy.
I take my MX-5 to a certain guy because he gives me an aggressive alignment of my own personal spec while I'm sitting in the car and corner balances the car for me with me in it for perfect balance when I'm racing it.
I am a mechanic so i am biased but, if I were in your shoes, I would make sure it comes loose myself at home and then go somewhere else. Or, you can use a measuring tape to get it damn close.
I would rather have it fail at home and be able to save money doing it myself than have it stranded at a shop and HAVE to pay them to fix it. Not like they'll let you do it there and a tow truck isn't worth it.
What I do when installing new tierods is I put anti seize on the threads before I get it all back together. That way it's lubricated and more rust resistant. After it gets torched, it's MUCH more likely to rust solid because of the flash rusting from taking the paint and all of the moisture out of it. It will start to rust immediately if not painted or oiled as soon as it cools enough to not evaporate whatever you're applying.
A large pipe wrench (monkey wrench), and a cheater pipe
The key is to not use the outer tie rod to fight all the torque. U use a 2nd wrench (pipe wrench, adjustable wrench, actual correct size wrench) to counter ur torque. I will often wedge the wrench holding the tie rod into the control arm, so i can use both hands on the wrench turning the nut. It may need torch heat to melt the thread lock, if the last guy did it correct and used thread lock
Charm.li is a good resource
The tierods may already be toast. I went to change the inner tierod boot on my car and couldn't get the tierods apart. Even after removing the tierods from the car and putting them in a vice, heating them up they didn't want to move. Finally got them apart and the threads were rusted and almost completely gone. Wound up replacing both tierods as well as the boot.
I believe the lock nut wasn’t the issue - there was a language barrier - currently on a road trip through Europe… it was the rod itself!?
Sorry, I know a lot cause every time something/or someone fucks something up on the car I get racing parts and learn how to do it myself….
2 clutches, Focus RS Brembos in front, Mazda 5 rear caliper shoes for bigger rear brakes, new shocks… and a ton of other body and underside mods…
But wheel alignment is new to me…
A 15 second blast with the torch and a wrench extender would move that like butter, if it even is stuck. It’s looks brand new compared to half the tie rods I have to adjust here in Canada.
Sometimes they can seize so bad that even a torch won't loosen it. This is common in areas where salt is used on roads in the winter. And the big wrench guys, if the problem is not the lock nut, but the threaded rod won't turn after the locknut is loose, you can't get a very good grip on the rod part. It has two flat sides that won't take much torque and round off easily. A new tie rod isn't expensive and I always replace the whole thing. When it's rusted up and frozen, both sides are shot or at least highly suspect. Put antiseize on the new one, which is another reason to DIY.
I know that’s what everyone is going to say, and I’m sure it works for you. Man, a couple sizes of cheap pipe pipe wrenches has been all the “come here bitch” I’ve ever needed.
https://preview.redd.it/d4kn2ia62b9c1.jpeg?width=1024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dbf7529e741c330213516d87d64f7ca08c0c4803
Sorry guys, I couldn’t help but I post. This was my solution about 12 years ago. 😂
Damn, I took that photo with a Blackberry Bold. Time flies…
When I did it I rented the special tool and had my foot on one ratchet, pushed on it as hard as I could, then using my arms I pulled as hard as I could on the other one.
After ripping my spine out of my body the bolt finally gave loose
This is how I busted them loose when I replaced the steering and suspension on my Versa.
Took it for alignment afterwards and found out that the huge pile of beach sand that fell out of my subframe crossmember was the only thing keeping it tracking, and had to spend another 1500 and a week off work to replace that before it would align.
Ima just keep the squirrelly steering next time.
Yeah alignment shops suck these days. Went to a shop to get an alignment after some front end work. They would not do it, stated inner and outers were loose and wheel bearings were bad. All had to be replaced on both sides. Funny part is, it was in the shop because it all was just replaced. The look on the faces when this was explained was absolutely priceless.
yeah i had just done inner AND outers and they claimed i NEEDED them... I checked them myself after the install- they were tight. i told em just align it the best ya can. the idiots didnt even notice the steering wheel was moving as they were shaking it down. The alignment was meh but tires are wearing well so i guess they did it close enough :)
I have been doing alignments for 10 years. Mostly Hondas, but not much out there I haven't worked on. I've only sent 2 back to the technicians in all of those years. Torches are my best friend in certain situations. I average well over 1,200 alignments every year.
There's a few fasteners in the picture, but I'm assuming they're trying to loosen the locking nut so they can rotate the inner rack end to adjust the toe. It doesn't look rusted or anything... I'm surprised they're struggling.
If it's seized beyond repair, worst case the inner rack end and tie rod end can be removed as a pair without difficulty and replaced with new genuine or aftermarket parts
That's not seized whatsoever haha
I've broken jam nuts loose from thread so rusty you couldn't even discern the individual threads (specifically those old GM sedan rear end toe adjusters) all it takes is a ton of heat, thermal shock with some penetrating oil, work it back and fourth with a GOOD wrench as to not round it out immediately, keep it moving and wet as it cools, and you've got an adjuster broken free. Oh, and wire wheel rust off the threads around the nut before you work it back and fourth if you can/need to. Sometimes, even if you need to thread in a tie rod, you can unthread it, wire wheel it, then it'll be easier threading back in without that chunk of rust the wheel couldn't get to under the nut. Don't forget to let the tie rods cool down before dialing in your final alignment values, as thermal expansion will change the alignment
I've loosened nuts way crustier than that
First tell them they are a bunch of pussies and to try hitting it with their purse. Then make sure they are turning it the right way, some tie rods have left hand threads. Next heat it a little with the torch and use a big wrench.
After having to do outer tie rods on my wife’s ford fusion this summer I can confirm they’re a PITA to get broken loose, but honestly any shop should be able to do that.
As a former alignment tech, fuck whoever said they couldn’t turn that. That’s shit better be mangled before you give up.
For easy work of any tie rods purchase a Bahco Swedish Pipe wrench (The original snap on ones had bahco stamping, new snap on ones are much lower quality)
What I've done on a rust belt seized tie rod was to attach a breaker bar to a crow foot wrench on the inner tie rod & then use a second breaker bar or big wrench to try & turn the nut that is up against the tie rod. Definitely helps to have the tie rod attached to the knuckle. I also rested the first breaker bar against the concrete so it couldn't move on me (having a helper also works).
Hehe. I get it. The outer tie rod has a machined hex that is the same size as the jam nut. If you have a wide wrench or a bad angle to the nut, you can overlap the flats on the outer tie rod, then you cant get the nut loose because your also grabbing the outer tie rod. These can be a bit of a pain but this isnt seized. Just lack of experience from the tech. He/she will get better with time. Hopefully if they couldnt adjust it, they didnt charge you. Just bring it somewhere else and they should be able to get it lined up.
Damn. I longed for tie rods that looked that good when I was doing alignments all day.
I was going to say take it to a competent shop, but I figure any shop that's not where you just tried.
If your boy can't undo the lock nuts, you got no chance of the alignment being correct!
Bcos most of boys doin alignement are not mechanics. They hook up shit to a computer, but tight screw is a problem. Happened on my car more then once. Its kinda sad.
Sounds like they visited me but I ended up replacing my entire rack and pinion along with tie rods just cause I was too weak to undo the 155k outer tie rods.
Go to a shop that specializes in alignments. I had a killer one near where I used to live. They would spec it to you needs.
I've undone lots of these, I start by cleaning off the threads up the tie rod a bit so it doesn't munch any threads, some heat, some hammering the joint a bit, ideally supported with a jack or something so you don't break the knuckle or warp it. Percussive maintenance works wonders to break rust and chemical bonds. Spray with lube and crack it off. Clean up and apply a bit of grease, nip it up and off to the alignment shop. Never failed me, but that's not to say one day it won't work
I’m not having a pop, a pet hate of mine is the use of the word loose instead of lose. I’ve never seen the error in reverse, I don’t know what to think.
They couldn’t get rust free tie rods free? Jesus fuck send them up north, or to the Midwest and show them what something that’s really stuck looks like
Crack the torch open get it hot it should come loose, just spray some type of oil penitrant like wd40 or what ever you like. Then let it cool down cuz the heat will make it inacurate to adjust for alignment
Just had this happen to my Lancer.
Went in for an alignment and they said they had to cut the rod out. In the process, managed to cut the ABS sensor too (but replaced it at their cost ofc).
Go to a better shop. Get that nut red hot and it'll come loose. I've been a tech in Pennsylvania for almost 10 years and it's rare to not use heat because EVERYTHING IS RUST
Heat, wrench, pipe that fits over wrench, no be pussy and crank that motherfucker until veins pop out of your forehead. Realistically it’s not going to be anywhere near that stuck, guy probably just didn’t have all the right tools or strength to break it free. I have seen some red hot nuts change their mind on being stuck..
They seriously couldn’t loosen a tie rod jam nut. That’s the nut that keeps the tie rod from moving so if you had a prior alignment done that nut keeps it from getting undone
Well, this definitely was not a reputatable shop in the rust belt. Acetylene torch is the answer. Heat up the jam nut and break it loose, adjust it close to spec, cool it down with water, and make your final adjustments.
Heat, oil, and leverage. Alignment guy needs a bigger purse to hit it with.
You could crack it loose yourself, but don't. Alignments are annoyingly precise and if you screw up it's no good. Take it somewhere good.
thats your tie rod, this is what aligns your cars front wheels. I would recommend jacking it up and taking it loose with a pipe wrench and a sledgehammer, or some other alternative. ( I'm only 15, so dont put a whole bunch of faith in me)
Wish I had the problem. The b/s we have here in PA takes some serious effort sometimes. That thing is in great shape, no reason they should have had a problem.
EDIT: I have had a car where someone put lock tight on the threads of the inner to the outer. No sure what dummy did that but that was mildly infuriating.
That does not even look rusted together. Lazy or wimps. What part of it is stuck? The jam nut or the inner tierod is frozen to the outer tie rod where adjustment isn't possible? If that was the case you will need a inner tierod and outer tie rod and a inner tie rod removal and installation tool. Zip tie to resecure the dust boot to the rack and pinion. We just take a cutting wheel to cut the inner rod off so we can use the inner tie rod removal tool to replace the inner tierod.
Get to grinding! Ive found very few things that cannot be destroyed easily. Nuts and bolts get stripped or break we should all just give up and call it a day. This is a easy problem to solve, hate to give them something difficult.
did they try a torch at least? If it's not possible to make adjustments due to excessive rust then you'll have to get new tie rods. But this vehicle looks to be in good condition so this shop is probably not a very legitimate one
Thank you for posting to AskMechanics, LifesTooGoodTooWaste! If you are asking a question please make sure to include any relevant information along with the **Year**, **Make**, **Model**, **Mileage**, **Engine size**, and **Transmission Type (Automatic or Manual)** of your car. *This comment is automatically added to every successful post. If you see this comment, your post was successful.* *** Redditors that have been verified will have a green background and an icon in their flair. *** # **PLEASE REPORT ANY RULE-BREAKING BEHAVIOR** ### **Rule 1 - Be Civil** Be civil to other users. This community is made up of professional mechanics, amateur mechanics, and those with no experience. All mechanical-related questions are welcome. Personal attacks, comments that are insulting or demeaning, etc. are not welcome. ### **Rule 2 - Be Helpful** Be helpful to other users. If someone is wrong, correcting them is fine, but there's no reason to comment if you don't have anything to add to the conversation. ### **Rule 3 - Serious Questions and Answers Only** Read the room. Jokes are fine to include, but posts should be asking a serious question and replies should contribute to the discussion. ### **Rule 4 - No Illegal, Unethical, or Dangerous Questions or Answers** Do not ask questions or provide answers pertaining to anything that is illegal, unethical, or dangerous. # **PLEASE REPORT ANY RULE-BREAKING BEHAVIOR** *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/AskMechanics) if you have any questions or concerns.*
sounds like you went to an alignment shop run by pussies
Lmao, I saw pic and the first thing that popped in head was “Pussies”
That happened to me too. The shop is so paranoid of breaking shit that they gave up at the first sign of resistance, declaring I needed a new tie rod. I buy said tie rod (not returnable because Honda sucks) and when i took it to my buddy to change out shocks I was going to have him replace the tie rod. He broke it loose with very little effort and muttered the same thing under his breath: “pussies…”
the shop can just tell the customer that the threads are seized, and can tell the customer they will try to break it loose and replace it if needed
Had a similar experience at Canadian Tire. Lmao. They couldn't get something loose and said they could try but will probably break it. I waited a week and got it into my regular mechanic and had no issues.
OP should go back and show them this comment thread.
Definitely smells fishy.
Tastes like shrimp
They beat the crap out of it with their purses and it just wouldn’t budge
i think they might need bigger purses
Finger tight is enough for any man and anything tighter is permanent
Seriously, that is the cleanest looking jam nut I've ever seen. Looks new.
Hahahaha literally the first thought in my head when I saw the picture was “lol pussies”
You guys made my day.🤣🤣🤣.
Hahaha yes you guys did thank you… at least now I know where the crab-cake smell came from…
They go purse shopping as a shop the last Saturday of every month
they don’t have the snap-on truck stop by, they’ve got the kate spade prius to come by.
No, the pink Mary Kay Cadillac!
I was going to tell him to find a better alignment shop, but you said it better.
God that looks so clean. Lived in NYS for 2 yrs and my nuts and rod looked like Dave Chappelle in that crack skit b/c of the salt. Took 3 minutes with a butane touch to move the nut. I think I can get yours off by hand. The shop you went to might be staffed with retarded people. I mean the medical definition of mentally retarded, so I commend you for going there and supporting our special needs neighbors. I can tell you have a kind soul.
i think you meant to reply to OP’s post, not my comment… but yes i completely agree, there’s absolutely no rust. And even if there was rust, a shop that even has a little bit of qualifications should be able to get it loose no problem. That shop is full of degenerates.
I was gonna ask where OP took his vehicle but you already had the answer lol Definitely pussies.
They needed to hear up the outer tie rod and jam not and then it would have come loose.
not even, just a little force and it’ll come loose
First thing that came to my mind
I was working on a purse joke. Yours is more direct and descriptive.
Yep they shouldn't have a rack lol
Heat with a torch and use a long wrench.
Interestingly enough the guys were trying it but I saw a massive spark and then they told me they couldn’t do it, he was a bit novice… should get my Ford dealer to take a look…
Just not him. Lacking in tools/knowledge/experience/strength. I pray for lock nuts this easy. Give him another chance, and he will damage the outer tie rod Edit: miscommunication. Op unsure what the mechanic was referring to due to a language barrier. Which makes a lot more fucking sense lol
Do you have a good resource, I do most work myself and have access to a torch (only used once)
IMO there is no need to do this yourself. If you crack open the lock nut you can't do the alignment yourself anyway. Do not do their work for them. Instead go to an actual competent shop.
Yeah this what i was about to add
Yeah, this a very common issue with tie rods. They should expect that they will have to heat and cheat. I've done a lot of alignments in my day. And about 50% of them needed extra oomph. You just need someone with more experience.
I understood that Focus’s of this generation need computers for alignment? How does that work? Manual vs non… etc
It's only if there is a need to reset the steering angle sensor, which if out of calibration can cause all kinds of odd issues like ABS activating for no reason( seen this in person after doing a rack and pinion and not resetting steering angle because there was no lights or instructions on a newer Tacoma) and if by computer they mean the alignment machine that gives you numbers, then yes, that is required for precision adjustments. My machine shows hundredths of an inch and tenths of degrees, way to fine for a tape measure.
The only time I've seen an alignment done without an alignment machine was in racecars that drive like shit anyway. As for any other fancy computer, I don't know what they're talking about.
I’ve been aligning my Jeeps with a tape measure in my driveway all my life “Drives like shit anyways” Checks out
What I've seen, you do a couple of rally stages, and then have 40 minutes to wrench before going out again. Changing hitting a semi-bent tie rod with a hammer a couple of times and moving it so the wheel looks straight is good enough for the next 3 stages, maybe even good enough for the whole weekend.
I hope you mean hitting it until the wheels and tires are straight, cause my steering wheel sure isn’t.
I've done a hillbilly alignment. Two pieces of sheet metal. Two tape measures. Tape. It will get the Toe to a drivable level. Handles fine, and tires show no wear. I'm going on 5 years now on a Dodge truck. I keep meaning to get a proper alignment. (I went to automotive school, but I'm still very cheap.).
Go to a real shop. They aren't it. The dealer won't give you a good alignment they will just get it "in the green." I'd ask a Ford (any car brand really) enthusiast forum for a good alignment guy in your area if you want it perfect. Find a local autoX/track racing group and ask them to recommend a good alignment guy. I take my MX-5 to a certain guy because he gives me an aggressive alignment of my own personal spec while I'm sitting in the car and corner balances the car for me with me in it for perfect balance when I'm racing it.
Good idea. I’m active in the local community.
I am a mechanic so i am biased but, if I were in your shoes, I would make sure it comes loose myself at home and then go somewhere else. Or, you can use a measuring tape to get it damn close. I would rather have it fail at home and be able to save money doing it myself than have it stranded at a shop and HAVE to pay them to fix it. Not like they'll let you do it there and a tow truck isn't worth it. What I do when installing new tierods is I put anti seize on the threads before I get it all back together. That way it's lubricated and more rust resistant. After it gets torched, it's MUCH more likely to rust solid because of the flash rusting from taking the paint and all of the moisture out of it. It will start to rust immediately if not painted or oiled as soon as it cools enough to not evaporate whatever you're applying.
A large pipe wrench (monkey wrench), and a cheater pipe The key is to not use the outer tie rod to fight all the torque. U use a 2nd wrench (pipe wrench, adjustable wrench, actual correct size wrench) to counter ur torque. I will often wedge the wrench holding the tie rod into the control arm, so i can use both hands on the wrench turning the nut. It may need torch heat to melt the thread lock, if the last guy did it correct and used thread lock Charm.li is a good resource
If I caught you using thread locker on a tie rod I would chew you out. That's the stupidest thing I've heard in awhile.
That's when you use the hands of correction to show someone the Way
*hammer
Follow your heart
If he hasn’t done damage to something. Already.
The tierods may already be toast. I went to change the inner tierod boot on my car and couldn't get the tierods apart. Even after removing the tierods from the car and putting them in a vice, heating them up they didn't want to move. Finally got them apart and the threads were rusted and almost completely gone. Wound up replacing both tierods as well as the boot.
I believe the lock nut wasn’t the issue - there was a language barrier - currently on a road trip through Europe… it was the rod itself!? Sorry, I know a lot cause every time something/or someone fucks something up on the car I get racing parts and learn how to do it myself…. 2 clutches, Focus RS Brembos in front, Mazda 5 rear caliper shoes for bigger rear brakes, new shocks… and a ton of other body and underside mods… But wheel alignment is new to me…
That might make sense. If the inner tie rods are bad, he cant align it. The alignment machine cant have slop in the inner tie rods
A 15 second blast with the torch and a wrench extender would move that like butter, if it even is stuck. It’s looks brand new compared to half the tie rods I have to adjust here in Canada.
Sometimes they can seize so bad that even a torch won't loosen it. This is common in areas where salt is used on roads in the winter. And the big wrench guys, if the problem is not the lock nut, but the threaded rod won't turn after the locknut is loose, you can't get a very good grip on the rod part. It has two flat sides that won't take much torque and round off easily. A new tie rod isn't expensive and I always replace the whole thing. When it's rusted up and frozen, both sides are shot or at least highly suspect. Put antiseize on the new one, which is another reason to DIY.
Thanks, this is what I was asking above, wasn’t the nut but the rod itself!!
Never use heat on steering components.
I know that’s what everyone is going to say, and I’m sure it works for you. Man, a couple sizes of cheap pipe pipe wrenches has been all the “come here bitch” I’ve ever needed.
Or my dick
https://preview.redd.it/d4kn2ia62b9c1.jpeg?width=1024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dbf7529e741c330213516d87d64f7ca08c0c4803 Sorry guys, I couldn’t help but I post. This was my solution about 12 years ago. 😂 Damn, I took that photo with a Blackberry Bold. Time flies…
So I'm not the only one that's done that with a jack.... Nice.
If it's stupid but it works it's not stupid
Very cool, screenshotted thanks
I did that to break a Honda crank bolt once without a good impact.
When I did it I rented the special tool and had my foot on one ratchet, pushed on it as hard as I could, then using my arms I pulled as hard as I could on the other one. After ripping my spine out of my body the bolt finally gave loose
Ingenuity at its finest!
This is how I busted them loose when I replaced the steering and suspension on my Versa. Took it for alignment afterwards and found out that the huge pile of beach sand that fell out of my subframe crossmember was the only thing keeping it tracking, and had to spend another 1500 and a week off work to replace that before it would align. Ima just keep the squirrelly steering next time.
Yeah alignment shops suck these days. Went to a shop to get an alignment after some front end work. They would not do it, stated inner and outers were loose and wheel bearings were bad. All had to be replaced on both sides. Funny part is, it was in the shop because it all was just replaced. The look on the faces when this was explained was absolutely priceless.
yeah i had just done inner AND outers and they claimed i NEEDED them... I checked them myself after the install- they were tight. i told em just align it the best ya can. the idiots didnt even notice the steering wheel was moving as they were shaking it down. The alignment was meh but tires are wearing well so i guess they did it close enough :)
Take it somewhere else they suck!
Go somewhere else and you will see they will do the job without even using any heat.
Take it to another shop then, that rod looks clean and not rusted, they’re wussies.
I have been doing alignments for 10 years. Mostly Hondas, but not much out there I haven't worked on. I've only sent 2 back to the technicians in all of those years. Torches are my best friend in certain situations. I average well over 1,200 alignments every year.
There's a few fasteners in the picture, but I'm assuming they're trying to loosen the locking nut so they can rotate the inner rack end to adjust the toe. It doesn't look rusted or anything... I'm surprised they're struggling. If it's seized beyond repair, worst case the inner rack end and tie rod end can be removed as a pair without difficulty and replaced with new genuine or aftermarket parts
That's not seized whatsoever haha I've broken jam nuts loose from thread so rusty you couldn't even discern the individual threads (specifically those old GM sedan rear end toe adjusters) all it takes is a ton of heat, thermal shock with some penetrating oil, work it back and fourth with a GOOD wrench as to not round it out immediately, keep it moving and wet as it cools, and you've got an adjuster broken free. Oh, and wire wheel rust off the threads around the nut before you work it back and fourth if you can/need to. Sometimes, even if you need to thread in a tie rod, you can unthread it, wire wheel it, then it'll be easier threading back in without that chunk of rust the wheel couldn't get to under the nut. Don't forget to let the tie rods cool down before dialing in your final alignment values, as thermal expansion will change the alignment I've loosened nuts way crustier than that
This dude mechanics. Coming from a mechanic. Best explanation in the comment section. You deserve more upvotes.
Thanks, penetrating oil is what someone in the forum said
Heat
They were scared to break something so they told you that, go somewhere else
That’s what I was thinking, and 2000 km from home, probably best they didn’t fuck it up
Take it some where else Also call the other shop and tell them it’s called a torch
The answer is a chain wrench. It will come loose or it will break. No in between with a chain wrench.
Which do you recommend? Never used one
Mac has a bogo on them once a year. 12" and 24" handle set. You can get them on Amazon fairly cheaply.
First tell them they are a bunch of pussies and to try hitting it with their purse. Then make sure they are turning it the right way, some tie rods have left hand threads. Next heat it a little with the torch and use a big wrench.
After having to do outer tie rods on my wife’s ford fusion this summer I can confirm they’re a PITA to get broken loose, but honestly any shop should be able to do that.
Damn I'd get my car tf out of that shop if dudes couldn't figure what they need to do.
As a former alignment tech, fuck whoever said they couldn’t turn that. That’s shit better be mangled before you give up. For easy work of any tie rods purchase a Bahco Swedish Pipe wrench (The original snap on ones had bahco stamping, new snap on ones are much lower quality)
What I've done on a rust belt seized tie rod was to attach a breaker bar to a crow foot wrench on the inner tie rod & then use a second breaker bar or big wrench to try & turn the nut that is up against the tie rod. Definitely helps to have the tie rod attached to the knuckle. I also rested the first breaker bar against the concrete so it couldn't move on me (having a helper also works).
Is that a reverse thread? Or is the picture mirrored?
it's literally their job to do.
Yeah - go to a real mechanic
The shop you went to is a bunch of bitches wtf... find better mechanics lmfao
Lmao I just helped someone do this like 30 mins ago. Crescent wrench and a bottle jack
Hehe. I get it. The outer tie rod has a machined hex that is the same size as the jam nut. If you have a wide wrench or a bad angle to the nut, you can overlap the flats on the outer tie rod, then you cant get the nut loose because your also grabbing the outer tie rod. These can be a bit of a pain but this isnt seized. Just lack of experience from the tech. He/she will get better with time. Hopefully if they couldnt adjust it, they didnt charge you. Just bring it somewhere else and they should be able to get it lined up.
Take it somewhere else would be your best bet
UPDATE: The Ford dealer is now trying it but says it's the same issue....
Tell them to hit it with their purse.
One side is usually reverse thread... What's the bet... 🤭🤔😂😂😂😂😂😂
Take it to a shop run by butch lesbians instead of pathetic middle aged cishet men that think they're tough. 🤣
Take it somewhere that knows what a torch is.
There's not even rust... I would say just don't ever go back to that "shop"
Never went to a shop where the mechanic wasn’t willing to break something while fixing something else.
They should have used a torch and heat it up
L o L, take it to a real mechanic. They don’t send it back with a “I tried” They know how to succeed
Did they try to hit it with their purse?
Did you suggest they try hitting it with their purse?
They must not have had anywhere to put down their purse
Some heat, a big wrench, and arm muscle is all you need to get that broken loose…
Damn. I longed for tie rods that looked that good when I was doing alignments all day. I was going to say take it to a competent shop, but I figure any shop that's not where you just tried. If your boy can't undo the lock nuts, you got no chance of the alignment being correct!
Go somewhere else.
Bcos most of boys doin alignement are not mechanics. They hook up shit to a computer, but tight screw is a problem. Happened on my car more then once. Its kinda sad.
I don't work on these, but it looks like someone put the opposite tie rod end on. ? should be straight or curved the opposite way?
Sounds like they visited me but I ended up replacing my entire rack and pinion along with tie rods just cause I was too weak to undo the 155k outer tie rods. Go to a shop that specializes in alignments. I had a killer one near where I used to live. They would spec it to you needs.
This thing looks clean as heck underneath..looks like a joy to wrench on.
I've undone lots of these, I start by cleaning off the threads up the tie rod a bit so it doesn't munch any threads, some heat, some hammering the joint a bit, ideally supported with a jack or something so you don't break the knuckle or warp it. Percussive maintenance works wonders to break rust and chemical bonds. Spray with lube and crack it off. Clean up and apply a bit of grease, nip it up and off to the alignment shop. Never failed me, but that's not to say one day it won't work
I’m not having a pop, a pet hate of mine is the use of the word loose instead of lose. I’ve never seen the error in reverse, I don’t know what to think.
The shop people need a bigger purse.
They couldnt get a jamnut loose? You got scammed and or they just didnt want to mess with it.
It would take some oil and effort but likely doable. Probably just change shop. If they break it your looking at a new tie rod.
You need a better mechanic. One not afraid to get there hands dirty.
Yeah pussies and thats how you line it up
They need to hit it with their purse to loosen up the crud making it not want to budge.
Try pickle fork
Take it somewhere not staffed by weaklings
Wimpy shop
Well dang. I’ve only worked in a car shop for about two months and even *I* can call this bs. Just heat it up?
Soak em in free all or another penetrating spray or oil. Worst case try a lot of heat
I bet I could loosen that bitch without the torch. With the torch, that bitch comes off all day, err day.
Find a shop not run by morons
Were they turning the wrong way? Can't be sure these days.
They couldn’t get rust free tie rods free? Jesus fuck send them up north, or to the Midwest and show them what something that’s really stuck looks like
Track rod end
It's so clean. Of you can't get that to move, you didn't try.
This has to be a troll post,that jam nut looks like it would bust loose no problem.
NUT doesn't even look rusted.... Were they turning the wrench the right way?
Torch or monkey wrench
Crack the torch open get it hot it should come loose, just spray some type of oil penitrant like wd40 or what ever you like. Then let it cool down cuz the heat will make it inacurate to adjust for alignment
You mean they didn't try to make it liquid first?
Pickle fork.
Let's hope they tried to get it "loose".
Tell them to use their big purse when they hit it.
Go back to the same shop and tell him you had your wife loosen the jam nut for them. If still no dice, go to a better alignment shop.
Just had this happen to my Lancer. Went in for an alignment and they said they had to cut the rod out. In the process, managed to cut the ABS sensor too (but replaced it at their cost ofc).
Smack it with their rubber penis
Yeah, sounds like they didn’t try hard enough
Go to a better shop. Get that nut red hot and it'll come loose. I've been a tech in Pennsylvania for almost 10 years and it's rare to not use heat because EVERYTHING IS RUST
Blue wrench … can’t be stuck if it’s liquid. acetylene torch.
Did they actually try?? This is better than anything I’ve ever done an alignment on
That looks somewhat new. What were they struggling with exactly?
But some p b blaster and lightly spray it. Trust me it will come loose. Even though it doesn’t look corroded in pic
Take it to a better mechanic.
Alignment “Technicians” are very often entry level employees.
Everyone grab a torch!
Nah that means they just didn't want to do it, hope you didn't give them any money.
Perhaps they could try utilizing 2 wrenches instead of 1.
Heat, wrench, pipe that fits over wrench, no be pussy and crank that motherfucker until veins pop out of your forehead. Realistically it’s not going to be anywhere near that stuck, guy probably just didn’t have all the right tools or strength to break it free. I have seen some red hot nuts change their mind on being stuck..
It’s called a tie rod, if you have mechanical skills try heating it up with a blow torch, or spray it with WD.
Go to a better mechanic
They seriously couldn’t loosen a tie rod jam nut. That’s the nut that keeps the tie rod from moving so if you had a prior alignment done that nut keeps it from getting undone
Well, this definitely was not a reputatable shop in the rust belt. Acetylene torch is the answer. Heat up the jam nut and break it loose, adjust it close to spec, cool it down with water, and make your final adjustments.
Heat, oil, and leverage. Alignment guy needs a bigger purse to hit it with. You could crack it loose yourself, but don't. Alignments are annoyingly precise and if you screw up it's no good. Take it somewhere good.
Get a propane torch in there then poor man’s impact it off. (By poor man’s impact I mean put a wrench on it and hit it with a hammer)
thats your tie rod, this is what aligns your cars front wheels. I would recommend jacking it up and taking it loose with a pipe wrench and a sledgehammer, or some other alternative. ( I'm only 15, so dont put a whole bunch of faith in me)
Heat is your friend.
Lol. Pussies. First time mechanics
That doesn't even look like they even had a spanner on it. I'd say they just cbf doing it and gave you an excuse.
That almost looks new, could break it free with a stubby wrench 🤣
Wish I had the problem. The b/s we have here in PA takes some serious effort sometimes. That thing is in great shape, no reason they should have had a problem. EDIT: I have had a car where someone put lock tight on the threads of the inner to the outer. No sure what dummy did that but that was mildly infuriating.
Everything can be loosen once.
They just didn't want your car for some reason. No rust and threads look fine I bet my grandma could probably loosen that nut.
Just from the lack of tool marks it doesn't look like they even tried
Break it loose in the parking lot and take it back or take it to a Mexican shop.
No rust??????? These are pussies of the southern most degree
You need a better alignment shop lol
Pipe spanner and a hammer too easy
Get some heat on that nut.
Heat does wonders for seized hardware
That does not even look rusted together. Lazy or wimps. What part of it is stuck? The jam nut or the inner tierod is frozen to the outer tie rod where adjustment isn't possible? If that was the case you will need a inner tierod and outer tie rod and a inner tie rod removal and installation tool. Zip tie to resecure the dust boot to the rack and pinion. We just take a cutting wheel to cut the inner rod off so we can use the inner tie rod removal tool to replace the inner tierod.
That shit looks brand new, you could sneeze on it and loosen it
Maybe it's left hand threads. Pussies.
Looks like a problem for the next owner
Replace it
Tie rod ends stuck? Replace them.
Heat
Could be reverse tread
Go to a shop with qualified professionals
I don’t get how shops like this operate get a grown man down there stop having lube techs and pussies doing shit
Go to a shop that has both tools And a Real mechanic
Is it left hand thread
Get to grinding! Ive found very few things that cannot be destroyed easily. Nuts and bolts get stripped or break we should all just give up and call it a day. This is a easy problem to solve, hate to give them something difficult.
did they try a torch at least? If it's not possible to make adjustments due to excessive rust then you'll have to get new tie rods. But this vehicle looks to be in good condition so this shop is probably not a very legitimate one
I got told the opposite at the shop recently. They told me that they couldn't get mine tightened. Brand new. 🤷♀️
What…? You use heat. Did you get a lube tech? Any competent tech could break that loose.
Fucking Jesus, I’m one of the weaker ones where I work but even I’d be able to undo that nut