Yes it looks like he’s right.
I’d also recommend FCP Euro. Amazon might be cheaper at first - but FCP will be higher quality and everything they sell has a lifetime warranty.
In other words: You’ll save money and have better parts by going through FCP.
I have 2 options.
Spend $200 on ebay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/186162736884?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Rqwx1iFnQNq&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=ham0k99ztn6&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Or
Spend $1200 on FCP Euro:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-control-arm-kit-lemforder-31126775967kt2
Don’t think i will be keeping the car more than 4 years more but I don’t have experience of using aftermarket parts at all. Would there be noticeable differences in driving at all or no? Tempted to cheap out in this case
The issue will be your time.
Are you okay with the car sitting in the shop again for all new suspension 6 months - 1.5 years down the road bc you went with cheap stuff?
ebay will last probly 1 year.
fcp might be better and last a while or you might get a shity batch.
i wouldnt replace all the control arms. that shop is a joke.
As a professional who specializes in these cars for a living, I don't see enough proof to call all the bushings and control arms.
Firstly, no bushings are shown in these pictures. All I see are the ball joints, and they look fine.
Secondly, all I see is grease slung everywhere from a torn axle boot.
If it was in my bay, I would clean all of the front suspension with a pressure washer, and I would reboot both front axles, inner and outer and I would add new pumpkin juice front and rear, and TC juice for good measure. These services will serve you much better in the long run, than just throwing Mikey Mouse parts at the entire front suspension. 🤔
Show me pictures of the bushings, I can't say they need to be replaced otherwise. What's the mileage?
70,000 miles.
https://video.37483.net/timeline/qGz015vA
Here is a video from 6 months ago. Not sure how bad/worse it got ever since.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-control-arm-kit-lemforder-31126775967kt2
By any chance, can you look at the kit above and recommend the parts I should buy and the parts I shouldn’t? I assume the nuts and bolts can be reused. As for the actual damage, the mechanic claimed that the left axle is damaged because of which he wants to redo the whole front end.
Lots of mumbo jumbo. Dealership rhetoric 101...
Give me 30 minutes as I'm closing up shop, and I'll tell you what you need to do, and what services you should perform. Brb
Thanks. His shop however though has hundreds of 5 star reviews to which is why I trust him but at the same time idrk.
https://imgur.com/a/MMYLGV7
(both are his shops)
5⭐️ reviews you say? Heh, I can buy those by the bushels. Never trust 5 star reviews in the modern day economy. I can assure you, the majority are bought and paid for. And if they are not bought, they are bribed and coerced when they beg you to leave a good review in exchange for a future treat... But you're not here for business lessons, you need to have your car fixed...
So here is what I would tell you. My approach is different. I don't ride the gravy train, and I don't use psychological tactics to upsell repairs. I just do what the car requires, and try to stretch your budget as much as possible so you get the highest quality repair for your money. The rest works itself out, and I'll see you again when you need me. Which it's a BMW, we are going to get well acquainted. 😂 That's how I run my business. These cars produce enough problems on their own, I don't need to gravy anything.
The radial arms or thrust arm bushings are a common failure item on this chassis. All 5, 6, and 7 series F chassis tear up the front radial bushings. Just a combination of the weight of the vehicle, and design of the suspension. However, based on the images provided, the ball joint ends of the radial arms look great. As they should! It only has 70k. Those ball joints last well into the 140-150k range. You can get away with just doing the bushings. They are much cheaper, and most shops charge 1-2 hours both sides to replace.
The CV axles can be re-booted. The idea that the radial arm bushings caused the boots to tear is hog wash. The boots always tear on the outboard side, or the side closest to the rim. This is because that's where the most articulation happens. The boots get hard and brittle with time, and tear here. I would reboot both axles, in-board and out-board as both axles wear in unison.
With the rest of the remaining budget, I would throw in the transfer case fluid service, and the rear diff fluid service. The front diff is getting serviced regardless, because you lose the fluid when you pull the axles to re-boot them. I would also top it off with an alignment.
So I would include an entire driveline service, and this in the long haul is going to be worth much more to you, than replacing a bunch of suspension components which aren't really a high risk item that's going to leave you stranded or result in thousands in repairs from wearing out.
You know what will cost you thousands? A transfer case failure. And the majority of them fail due to negligence of the fluid because BMW considers it lifetime 🙄.
I rebuild transfer cases for $2500.00 out the door. I have to source all the parts from Europe, because BMW doesn't sell any of them over the counter. They sell you the entire transfer case, which is a 6k part.
So in summary, invest the money where you're going to get maximum return. Service the driveline, re-boot the axles, and replace the worn bushings *only*. Then get an alignment to get your suspension straight. All control arm hardware should be replaced. They are torque to yield, and not reusable. They stretch when torquing to spec, and reusing them runs the risk of shearing off. It's not worth your life or a commuter's life if you lose control and wreck because of hardware failure. They cost pennies on the dollar. Don't skimp there.
Ohh and I would also request they send you video evidence of the condition of the front driveshaft. Another high failure item. When that one goes, it likes to slap the transmission case, crack it, now you're looking at a transmission. Tell them to stop being lazy fucks, and remove the front skid plate. I want my customers to have a clear view of the entire underside of the vehicle. That skid plate obstructs line of sight on everything under there.
I always tell my guys when they are performing a DVI to strip her naked, like they would a woman.
Thank you so much for the detailed and in depth response! I’ll definitely consider all the things you said. Also where is your shop located lol?
As for the front end repair alone, what parts would you recommend from the list below. They are basically part of the kit I have linked and I know only a few of those parts will suffice for the repair.
1
Suspension Control Arm (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-suspension-control-arm-31126777733)
LEM-3621001
$137.99
1
Suspension Control Arm (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-suspension-control-arm-31126777734)
LEM-3621101
$127.99
1
Suspension Control Arm (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-control-arm-lemforder-31126777743)
LEM-3734701
$202.99
1
Suspension Control Arm (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-control-arm-lemforder-31126777744-lem-3734801)
LEM-3734801
$205.99
2
Suspension Control Arm (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-control-arm-lemforder-31126775967)
LEM-3721601
$293.98
2
Suspension Ball Joint (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-ball-joint-front-lemforder-31126777753)
LEM-3734901
$96.58
2
Suspension Stabilizer Bar Link (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-sway-bar-link-front-lemforder-31356777319)
LEM-3460101
$53.98
2
Suspension Control Arm Bolt (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-hex-bolt-with-washer-m14x15x119-31106786310)
BMW-31106786310
$31.18
1
Suspension Control Arm Nut (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-clip-nut-left-m14x1510-zns3-31106783591)
BMW-31106783591
$11.09
1
Suspension Control Arm Nut (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-clip-nut-right-m14x1510-zns3-31106783592)
BMW-31106783592
$11.09
2
Suspension Control Arm Bolt (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-hex-bolt-with-washer-m14x11010-9-33176760342)
BMW-33176760342
$26.58
4
Suspension Control Arm Nut (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-collar-nut-33306760349)
BMW-33306760349
$19.16
2
Suspension Control Arm Nut (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-hexagon-nut-with-collar-m16x1510-zns3-31106768887)
BMW-31106768887
$11.18
2
Suspension Control Arm Bolt (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-hex-bolt-with-washer-m10x85u110-9-07119907882)
BMW-07119907882
$6.18
2
Suspension Control Arm Nut (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-combination-nut-m1010-zns3-33306760585)
BMW-33306760585
$9.58
Question sir I been driving around with a bad transfer case. Can I slap on a reman from eBay ? Or a used one would be better ?? Thank you for your advice.
lol tbh I have none. She’s actually driving well. She’s just on rear wheels rn and over the winter I had trouble in the snow. But it popped up at 100k I’m at 125k rn 328i xdrive 2016. So you think a used one would be best ??
So why are you looking to replace the TC if it's not broken?
Just service it with the latest fluid # 83 22 2 409 710 - this one includes the shudder additive BMW recommends to cure shuddering and other clunky symptoms.
Also inspect the rubber mount, and the front driveshaft. Many times these are worn and are routinely misdiagnosed as a failing TC
I sorry I meant to say I have all the lights on the dash and the error code on the transfer case. The car runs but only on rear wheel and not all wheels
I got so many questions about this. How many miles? Seems crazy to me that a 2015 would need control arms and axles. What you been doing? Taking a 535 off road or hit a few curbs? Insane
My brain just has trouble computing how this could be in 70k miles. The parts we are talking about should be good for 100k +.
I’ve got a 2012 335is and my suspension is solid. No issues at 121k. I over maintain the drivetrain but I haven’t done anything to the suspension other than tires which are a consumables and alignments (and the alignment was because I dropped the subframe to preventatively replace the oil pan gasket)
Edit: I have replaced by engine and trans mounts.
Lemforder from FCP is an OEM supplier and has a lifetime warranty. Amazon is generic noname Chinese crap, even if they claim it's a known brand good chance it's counterfeit.
in general no issues, but the Chinese fake thing is a problem, and the cheaper you go the more likely it won't last last and there could be fitment issues no matter what the listing or docs say, like bolt hole just a mm off kind of thing but again big chunky suspension pieces is not rocket science
If your steering doesn’t feel stiff then yes. I bought the entire front control arms, ball joints, etc for like $400 off FCP Euro and a independent mechanic installed them all for like $250.
Check out FCP euro or ECS tuning. The best option is to the find the part number from realoem and then search the part number you’ll get oem/factory parts. Sometimes the same part from an oem manufacturer is half the bmw part cost, even if it’s the same part. Bmw water pump is 650 and oem continental(same pump) is $400
Yeah. Upon further investigation to me, it looks like all that needs to be immediately done are the front lower tension struts and the boot of the left axle. Everything else that I was told to replace seems unnecessary since the car only has 70k miles.
The real issue is that the axle can be repaired with a boot kit or can get a new one. Then as far as the whole front end needing to be rebuilt? Doubt it until the control arm bushing is leaking or the rubber in the bushing is cracked.
Doubtful. 9 times out of ten (and this not the 1 based on these photos) a torn boot has relieved the cv joint of all of its grease and then attracted dirt into the joint, at which point it is now absolute garbage
Naw. I can count with one hand the number of axles I've had to throw away on these cars in my 22 years of servicing them. The bellows kit includes everything needed to rebuild them to basically brand new.
Of course, you want to run the OEM BMW bellows. Not the aftermarket garbage.
Yes it looks like he’s right. I’d also recommend FCP Euro. Amazon might be cheaper at first - but FCP will be higher quality and everything they sell has a lifetime warranty. In other words: You’ll save money and have better parts by going through FCP.
FCP also won't ship you someone else's return or a counterfeit item.
not gonna lie. last time i bought control arms and thrust arms from fcp they where fucking junk. both failed with in 2 years. 15k miles.
I have 2 options. Spend $200 on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/186162736884?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Rqwx1iFnQNq&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=ham0k99ztn6&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Or Spend $1200 on FCP Euro: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-control-arm-kit-lemforder-31126775967kt2 Don’t think i will be keeping the car more than 4 years more but I don’t have experience of using aftermarket parts at all. Would there be noticeable differences in driving at all or no? Tempted to cheap out in this case
The issue will be your time. Are you okay with the car sitting in the shop again for all new suspension 6 months - 1.5 years down the road bc you went with cheap stuff?
You're better off buying a used original set on eBay from a trusted seller than aftermarket
ebay will last probly 1 year. fcp might be better and last a while or you might get a shity batch. i wouldnt replace all the control arms. that shop is a joke.
As a professional who specializes in these cars for a living, I don't see enough proof to call all the bushings and control arms. Firstly, no bushings are shown in these pictures. All I see are the ball joints, and they look fine. Secondly, all I see is grease slung everywhere from a torn axle boot. If it was in my bay, I would clean all of the front suspension with a pressure washer, and I would reboot both front axles, inner and outer and I would add new pumpkin juice front and rear, and TC juice for good measure. These services will serve you much better in the long run, than just throwing Mikey Mouse parts at the entire front suspension. 🤔 Show me pictures of the bushings, I can't say they need to be replaced otherwise. What's the mileage?
70,000 miles. https://video.37483.net/timeline/qGz015vA Here is a video from 6 months ago. Not sure how bad/worse it got ever since. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-control-arm-kit-lemforder-31126775967kt2 By any chance, can you look at the kit above and recommend the parts I should buy and the parts I shouldn’t? I assume the nuts and bolts can be reused. As for the actual damage, the mechanic claimed that the left axle is damaged because of which he wants to redo the whole front end.
Lots of mumbo jumbo. Dealership rhetoric 101... Give me 30 minutes as I'm closing up shop, and I'll tell you what you need to do, and what services you should perform. Brb
Thanks. His shop however though has hundreds of 5 star reviews to which is why I trust him but at the same time idrk. https://imgur.com/a/MMYLGV7 (both are his shops)
5⭐️ reviews you say? Heh, I can buy those by the bushels. Never trust 5 star reviews in the modern day economy. I can assure you, the majority are bought and paid for. And if they are not bought, they are bribed and coerced when they beg you to leave a good review in exchange for a future treat... But you're not here for business lessons, you need to have your car fixed... So here is what I would tell you. My approach is different. I don't ride the gravy train, and I don't use psychological tactics to upsell repairs. I just do what the car requires, and try to stretch your budget as much as possible so you get the highest quality repair for your money. The rest works itself out, and I'll see you again when you need me. Which it's a BMW, we are going to get well acquainted. 😂 That's how I run my business. These cars produce enough problems on their own, I don't need to gravy anything. The radial arms or thrust arm bushings are a common failure item on this chassis. All 5, 6, and 7 series F chassis tear up the front radial bushings. Just a combination of the weight of the vehicle, and design of the suspension. However, based on the images provided, the ball joint ends of the radial arms look great. As they should! It only has 70k. Those ball joints last well into the 140-150k range. You can get away with just doing the bushings. They are much cheaper, and most shops charge 1-2 hours both sides to replace. The CV axles can be re-booted. The idea that the radial arm bushings caused the boots to tear is hog wash. The boots always tear on the outboard side, or the side closest to the rim. This is because that's where the most articulation happens. The boots get hard and brittle with time, and tear here. I would reboot both axles, in-board and out-board as both axles wear in unison. With the rest of the remaining budget, I would throw in the transfer case fluid service, and the rear diff fluid service. The front diff is getting serviced regardless, because you lose the fluid when you pull the axles to re-boot them. I would also top it off with an alignment. So I would include an entire driveline service, and this in the long haul is going to be worth much more to you, than replacing a bunch of suspension components which aren't really a high risk item that's going to leave you stranded or result in thousands in repairs from wearing out. You know what will cost you thousands? A transfer case failure. And the majority of them fail due to negligence of the fluid because BMW considers it lifetime 🙄. I rebuild transfer cases for $2500.00 out the door. I have to source all the parts from Europe, because BMW doesn't sell any of them over the counter. They sell you the entire transfer case, which is a 6k part. So in summary, invest the money where you're going to get maximum return. Service the driveline, re-boot the axles, and replace the worn bushings *only*. Then get an alignment to get your suspension straight. All control arm hardware should be replaced. They are torque to yield, and not reusable. They stretch when torquing to spec, and reusing them runs the risk of shearing off. It's not worth your life or a commuter's life if you lose control and wreck because of hardware failure. They cost pennies on the dollar. Don't skimp there. Ohh and I would also request they send you video evidence of the condition of the front driveshaft. Another high failure item. When that one goes, it likes to slap the transmission case, crack it, now you're looking at a transmission. Tell them to stop being lazy fucks, and remove the front skid plate. I want my customers to have a clear view of the entire underside of the vehicle. That skid plate obstructs line of sight on everything under there. I always tell my guys when they are performing a DVI to strip her naked, like they would a woman.
Thank you so much for the detailed and in depth response! I’ll definitely consider all the things you said. Also where is your shop located lol? As for the front end repair alone, what parts would you recommend from the list below. They are basically part of the kit I have linked and I know only a few of those parts will suffice for the repair. 1 Suspension Control Arm (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-suspension-control-arm-31126777733) LEM-3621001 $137.99 1 Suspension Control Arm (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-suspension-control-arm-31126777734) LEM-3621101 $127.99 1 Suspension Control Arm (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-control-arm-lemforder-31126777743) LEM-3734701 $202.99 1 Suspension Control Arm (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-control-arm-lemforder-31126777744-lem-3734801) LEM-3734801 $205.99 2 Suspension Control Arm (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-control-arm-lemforder-31126775967) LEM-3721601 $293.98 2 Suspension Ball Joint (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-ball-joint-front-lemforder-31126777753) LEM-3734901 $96.58 2 Suspension Stabilizer Bar Link (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-sway-bar-link-front-lemforder-31356777319) LEM-3460101 $53.98 2 Suspension Control Arm Bolt (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-hex-bolt-with-washer-m14x15x119-31106786310) BMW-31106786310 $31.18 1 Suspension Control Arm Nut (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-clip-nut-left-m14x1510-zns3-31106783591) BMW-31106783591 $11.09 1 Suspension Control Arm Nut (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-clip-nut-right-m14x1510-zns3-31106783592) BMW-31106783592 $11.09 2 Suspension Control Arm Bolt (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-hex-bolt-with-washer-m14x11010-9-33176760342) BMW-33176760342 $26.58 4 Suspension Control Arm Nut (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-collar-nut-33306760349) BMW-33306760349 $19.16 2 Suspension Control Arm Nut (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-hexagon-nut-with-collar-m16x1510-zns3-31106768887) BMW-31106768887 $11.18 2 Suspension Control Arm Bolt (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-hex-bolt-with-washer-m10x85u110-9-07119907882) BMW-07119907882 $6.18 2 Suspension Control Arm Nut (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-combination-nut-m1010-zns3-33306760585) BMW-33306760585 $9.58
Send me the last 7 of your vin. And I'm located in South Florida
D539994
Wait are you in America? Why does this come up as a Russian market vehicle?
I did do a reverse license plate look up for my vin number (since the car is not with me) It could be that this is how it got mixed up??
Russia??? I have the carfax lol was never in russia. I’m from Mass. Car was bought at 65k miles from chicago
Question sir I been driving around with a bad transfer case. Can I slap on a reman from eBay ? Or a used one would be better ?? Thank you for your advice.
😂 I'd rather run a broken one, than a rebuilt eBay special. What's the symptoms?
lol tbh I have none. She’s actually driving well. She’s just on rear wheels rn and over the winter I had trouble in the snow. But it popped up at 100k I’m at 125k rn 328i xdrive 2016. So you think a used one would be best ??
So why are you looking to replace the TC if it's not broken? Just service it with the latest fluid # 83 22 2 409 710 - this one includes the shudder additive BMW recommends to cure shuddering and other clunky symptoms. Also inspect the rubber mount, and the front driveshaft. Many times these are worn and are routinely misdiagnosed as a failing TC
I sorry I meant to say I have all the lights on the dash and the error code on the transfer case. The car runs but only on rear wheel and not all wheels
Any update 👀
Yes sir. I just gave you a novel there. I was closing up and it's payroll day. So had to handle priorities
Damn I wish you lived near me. Someone who knows what they’re fucking talking about, lol.
I got so many questions about this. How many miles? Seems crazy to me that a 2015 would need control arms and axles. What you been doing? Taking a 535 off road or hit a few curbs? Insane
70,000 miles. I don’t think bushings were ever done before. Also has run flats on its whole life (dk if that has any affect)
My brain just has trouble computing how this could be in 70k miles. The parts we are talking about should be good for 100k +. I’ve got a 2012 335is and my suspension is solid. No issues at 121k. I over maintain the drivetrain but I haven’t done anything to the suspension other than tires which are a consumables and alignments (and the alignment was because I dropped the subframe to preventatively replace the oil pan gasket) Edit: I have replaced by engine and trans mounts.
I can’t believe it either. Just very unfortunate turn of events :(
Lemforder from FCP is an OEM supplier and has a lifetime warranty. Amazon is generic noname Chinese crap, even if they claim it's a known brand good chance it's counterfeit.
FCP it is!!
in general no issues, but the Chinese fake thing is a problem, and the cheaper you go the more likely it won't last last and there could be fitment issues no matter what the listing or docs say, like bolt hole just a mm off kind of thing but again big chunky suspension pieces is not rocket science
If your steering doesn’t feel stiff then yes. I bought the entire front control arms, ball joints, etc for like $400 off FCP Euro and a independent mechanic installed them all for like $250.
And I have a 2012 535I Xdrive
buy the 200$ set only thing is fitment
Check out FCP euro or ECS tuning. The best option is to the find the part number from realoem and then search the part number you’ll get oem/factory parts. Sometimes the same part from an oem manufacturer is half the bmw part cost, even if it’s the same part. Bmw water pump is 650 and oem continental(same pump) is $400
Yeah. Upon further investigation to me, it looks like all that needs to be immediately done are the front lower tension struts and the boot of the left axle. Everything else that I was told to replace seems unnecessary since the car only has 70k miles.
The real issue is that the axle can be repaired with a boot kit or can get a new one. Then as far as the whole front end needing to be rebuilt? Doubt it until the control arm bushing is leaking or the rubber in the bushing is cracked.
yeah the front lower bushings are completely gone left and right so his advice was to get the full kit.
Doubtful. 9 times out of ten (and this not the 1 based on these photos) a torn boot has relieved the cv joint of all of its grease and then attracted dirt into the joint, at which point it is now absolute garbage
Naw. I can count with one hand the number of axles I've had to throw away on these cars in my 22 years of servicing them. The bellows kit includes everything needed to rebuild them to basically brand new. Of course, you want to run the OEM BMW bellows. Not the aftermarket garbage.
Fcp euro if you plan to own the car when it’s paid off and everything else cause who gives a fuck lol