Some additional photos of the job. Mostly focused on the old flashing and the stucco work. I wanted to know if he did it correctly - specifically the area I shared in the post. Note that it's mostly covered by the upper roof and was a bit more concerning due to the look of it.
[https://photos.app.goo.gl/4Nwa2Vo7cvizrEYX9](https://photos.app.goo.gl/4Nwa2Vo7cvizrEYX9)
Mold growth on the corners is a sure bet water has been soaking the stucco and it should have been cut back, cricket built, self adhering membrane wrapped from the deck to the vertical wall (even if only 12” to save money in stucco replacement), then flashing installed, then stucco finished back down over the top, stopping an 1.5” before you hit the shingle. Step flashing height is 5” so that leaves 3.5” under the siding. Usually what’s done.
I'm searching for an experienced professional in the San Francisco Bay Area to evaluate the work done by my roofer and pinpoint any necessary repairs. This is a paid opportunity. As I'm not an expert, I'm seeking an independent subject matter expert to provide advice. Ideally, the repairs would be conducted by the original contractor.
I see no step shingles at that roof to wall. they used the old tile pan flashing? also I see no weep screed where the stucco is ending?? 2 major red flags at your roof to wall. that is a terrible detail.
Can you tell us a little more about what the nature of the work was? Did they take this apart to find a leak and then put it back together? Was it a new roof install?
There is a LOT going on in this photo. I see old and new stucco issues (different stucco textures and paint on the edge of a shingle), so would guess this has been a leak source for a bit if it was a repair, or if it was a replacement they adjusted flashing for tile height, then incorrect kick-out flashing, presidential starter ends shy of the step flashing, so does the first shingle course, then there appears to be old material under the step flashing, but new underlayment to the left of that?
Take away message: that corner looks problematic for a number of reasons still. So if there was a leak that someone was hired to correct and problem solve to correct, they are not quite done yet. If it was a new roof install, they didn’t do the normal starter or presidential starter correctly, and then the flashing detail is also incorrect where the roof meets the vertical wall.
I appreciate the thorough response. I recently undertook a complete reroofing project, transitioning from Spanish tile to presidential TL roofing. While I didn't experience any leaks prior to the replacement, I have concerns about the quality of the work performed. Instead of removing the old flashing, they opted to layer the new flashing underneath it. Additionally, a separate contractor was brought in for stucco repairs and painting. I'll share additional photos to gather insights on the overall quality of the workmanship. Any advice or feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Okay so that makes more sense. When you convert from Barrel tile especially, the height change down to asphalt usually always requires flashing adjustment (which means you’re going to edit the stucco in some form because unlike lap siding or wood siding, the flashing is locked in place more or less behind the stucco).
The correct way to do this (since he was already having a stucco contractor out there) would have been to pull out the old flashing completely, then the shingler would run their step flashings/roof to wall, then he would come back and have a clean new stucco install over the new flashing. It would look like a brand new house. I like that the roofer had a stucco contractor out there, he was on the right track, but there are things that I would have done differently. I’m confused why they didn’t go all the way and pull and replace all the flashing.
Secondly, like other guys have brought up, the crickets behind the chimneys are another red flag to me. Again, you already have a stucco contractor on sight, a minimum has been charged, he’s mixing up batches of stucco, matching and buying paint etc, that’s the time to go ahead and (like I said on the flashing)- to do the entire thing.
You have lichen/algae growth on the corners of the chimney siding. Which means water is soaking the stucco. This should have been similar to the other repair areas they did. Cut the stucco back, cricket build, then self adhered membrane from roof to vertical wall, then flash it correctly with step flashings, and THEN have the stucco guy come back in and stucco it back down to finish with the new flashing being exposed an inch or so.
Shoot me a DM if ya end up needing more help.
If the Stucco and flashing was intact, he elected to go on top of it, and caulk it.
He accepted a stucco job and this isn’t half bad. Stucco sucks.
https://images.app.goo.gl/ZG99RGJxULywAo35A
Exactly^ 👌🏻
Man! Doesn't look good!!
Some additional photos of the job. Mostly focused on the old flashing and the stucco work. I wanted to know if he did it correctly - specifically the area I shared in the post. Note that it's mostly covered by the upper roof and was a bit more concerning due to the look of it. [https://photos.app.goo.gl/4Nwa2Vo7cvizrEYX9](https://photos.app.goo.gl/4Nwa2Vo7cvizrEYX9)
Should have gotten crickets on those chimneys
Mold growth on the corners is a sure bet water has been soaking the stucco and it should have been cut back, cricket built, self adhering membrane wrapped from the deck to the vertical wall (even if only 12” to save money in stucco replacement), then flashing installed, then stucco finished back down over the top, stopping an 1.5” before you hit the shingle. Step flashing height is 5” so that leaves 3.5” under the siding. Usually what’s done.
Good point. I will ask why it’s missing
I'm searching for an experienced professional in the San Francisco Bay Area to evaluate the work done by my roofer and pinpoint any necessary repairs. This is a paid opportunity. As I'm not an expert, I'm seeking an independent subject matter expert to provide advice. Ideally, the repairs would be conducted by the original contractor.
I see no step shingles at that roof to wall. they used the old tile pan flashing? also I see no weep screed where the stucco is ending?? 2 major red flags at your roof to wall. that is a terrible detail.
Color that missing piece black if you prefer
Can you tell us a little more about what the nature of the work was? Did they take this apart to find a leak and then put it back together? Was it a new roof install? There is a LOT going on in this photo. I see old and new stucco issues (different stucco textures and paint on the edge of a shingle), so would guess this has been a leak source for a bit if it was a repair, or if it was a replacement they adjusted flashing for tile height, then incorrect kick-out flashing, presidential starter ends shy of the step flashing, so does the first shingle course, then there appears to be old material under the step flashing, but new underlayment to the left of that? Take away message: that corner looks problematic for a number of reasons still. So if there was a leak that someone was hired to correct and problem solve to correct, they are not quite done yet. If it was a new roof install, they didn’t do the normal starter or presidential starter correctly, and then the flashing detail is also incorrect where the roof meets the vertical wall.
I appreciate the thorough response. I recently undertook a complete reroofing project, transitioning from Spanish tile to presidential TL roofing. While I didn't experience any leaks prior to the replacement, I have concerns about the quality of the work performed. Instead of removing the old flashing, they opted to layer the new flashing underneath it. Additionally, a separate contractor was brought in for stucco repairs and painting. I'll share additional photos to gather insights on the overall quality of the workmanship. Any advice or feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Okay so that makes more sense. When you convert from Barrel tile especially, the height change down to asphalt usually always requires flashing adjustment (which means you’re going to edit the stucco in some form because unlike lap siding or wood siding, the flashing is locked in place more or less behind the stucco). The correct way to do this (since he was already having a stucco contractor out there) would have been to pull out the old flashing completely, then the shingler would run their step flashings/roof to wall, then he would come back and have a clean new stucco install over the new flashing. It would look like a brand new house. I like that the roofer had a stucco contractor out there, he was on the right track, but there are things that I would have done differently. I’m confused why they didn’t go all the way and pull and replace all the flashing. Secondly, like other guys have brought up, the crickets behind the chimneys are another red flag to me. Again, you already have a stucco contractor on sight, a minimum has been charged, he’s mixing up batches of stucco, matching and buying paint etc, that’s the time to go ahead and (like I said on the flashing)- to do the entire thing. You have lichen/algae growth on the corners of the chimney siding. Which means water is soaking the stucco. This should have been similar to the other repair areas they did. Cut the stucco back, cricket build, then self adhered membrane from roof to vertical wall, then flash it correctly with step flashings, and THEN have the stucco guy come back in and stucco it back down to finish with the new flashing being exposed an inch or so. Shoot me a DM if ya end up needing more help.