Do you have a decent archery shop near you? We can give you all our opinions but there’s something to be said about getting hands on guidance from a tech in a shop with an assortment of arrows.
As others have said, find a pro shop to set up your arrows. You don't need to jump into building your own arrows right away, plenty of guys hunt with pre-fletched arrows and stock inserts/nocks.
Easton Axis, Gold Tip Hunter, Easton 6.5mm bowhunter are some examples of common arrow shafts that a lot of guys use. However, you want your arrows built to match your draw weight and draw length. A pro shop is going to be the best place to go to get help with that.
And last thing, practice with the arrows that you're hunting with. Don't get some random cheap arrows to practice with and try to switch to a different set of arrows for hunting.
Yes and yes. Better to buy and hunt with less expensive arrows you also practice with than to use expensive arrows to hunt and cheap arrows to practice
I would recommend a Gold Tip Hunter. Decent all around arrow that won't break the bank. Once you get a set of shootable arrows, then you can play with higher FOC, inserts, etc.. I build my own arrows now, but started with off the shelf setups. I would stay away from Carbon Express brand. They size there spines differently than any other brand. GL
As others have said, you don’t need to roll your own. You can buy ready made arrows. Nearly any name brand arrow can work fine. Avoid the cheapest arrows, and the no-name generics, as they are typically inconsistent and often they are weaker than the spine measurements printed on their shafts or posted on their online listing.
The most important thing (and this is absolutely critical) is that you match the SPINE of the arrow shaft (a measure of its stiffness/flexibilty) to(1) the draw weight of your bow, (2) the weight of your arrow points, and (3) your arrow length. If you change any one of those 3 things, you may need to get new arrows to have the correct shaft flexibility.
An archery shop is the easiest way to get set up with the right arrows. Take your bow with you to the shop if you go this route so they can measure your draw length and actual draw weight.
If that option isn’t available to you, you can do it yourself using online arrrow spine calculators. All legit arrow manufacturers have spine charts or spine calculators available online for their arrows. You will quickly learn that you need to know the three details listed in the previous paragraph - draw weight, point weight, and shaft length.
You can choose arrow points for hunting from 100 to over 400 grains. Most are 100 or 125 grains. You get better penetration with heavier points, especially at longer distances, but your trajectory gets progressively worse as you increase projectile weight. Target archers typically use lighter points to get flatter trajectories - they are not as concerned with target penetration. 125 or 150 grains is probably a good weight to start with if your primary objective is hunting. Choose a point weight, then get broadheads and field point practice heads of identical weight. Don’t try to practice with one head weight and hunt with a different weight.
You will need someone to help you figure out your required arrow length. Have your helper mark an arrow with a sharpie an inch forward of the arrow rest while you hold the arrow at full draw.
Some calculators ask for additional info like let-off percentage, insert weight, etc. Try several of the calculators and spine charts to see if you get the same spine recommendations from several sources.
Once you know what spine and arrow length you need, buy a mid-priced option from one of the big names. There are lots of good options.
As another commenter noted, Carbon Express uses confusing shaft size numbers that look like spine ratings, but they are not. Avoid that brand - the risk of getting the wrong spine is not worth the trouble. They made a very bad marketing choice in how they label their shafts.
As you have discovered, arrow sizing is a rabbit hole that leads to a maze of choices. Figuring out what spine you need is the most important factor, though. Get that right and you will be fine.
I’m a new Bow Hunter as well, just picked one up last month. The Pro Shop I bought my stuff from takes Arrow ordered and they usually take care of the details. I would recommend finding a pro shop near you and asking them. Sorry if this isn’t any help. I’m slowly understanding more and more every day on the details but I’m definitely not advanced enough to build my own or even notice a difference.
Arrows can be as basic or as complex as you want to make them. A lot of bow guys like to tinker and that is were building your own arrows comes into play.
The biggest thing is to simply get a quality arrow with the correct spine for your bow and broadhead set up.
If you want something more than the out of the box options but don't want to go the build you're own route you can see if your local shop will build you something custom or you can look online for a builder. I follow one builder on Instagram who makes some good looking arrows. You just provide your bow and broadhead specs and he'll do the building based on your specs and preferences.
I say learn how to do it. You can buy a cheap cutoff saw from Harbor Freight and an arrow stone square. I have $20 arrows and $3 Temu arrows that I make. You can get the nocks and inserts with the arrows or off of Amazon. Get some epoxy and you’re all set. Depending on your draw length you probably are at around a 350 to 400 spine at that poundage.
I shoot a lot of bare shafts in the off season so I don’t need ready made arrows and I like to nock tune. Once it’s near dead on I’ll fletch or shrink fletch em. I like the flexibility.
To each their own however.
They are the blue carbon express predators from Korea. You can get them in Ali Express a little cheaper. I have a dozen and they all spin well and group well. I’m currently shooting them out to 30 yards without fletchings and only lost one stray. After I nock tuned them they group really well. I would use them for hunting without concern.
One over simplified way to possibly think about this…for now::
A) If you’re going to shoot mechanicals, don’t stress rabbit holing (yet) with building your own; just get some decent arrows and paper tune and move on with your life.
B) If you’re going to shoot fixed blades, then build and tune and bare shaft and all that shit to get the ‘truest to field point’ flight
Most shops will have some fletched easton axis to get you started.
For set up recommendations, everyone here has great advice. Personally, I like a +/- 475-500 gn arrow with whatever weight Shwackers will get me that weight. I get pass through on deer no problem, however would probably move to a fixed if NM ever actually issues me an elk tag………. Anyways just one idiots opinion.
I've noticed this trend in almost everything the last decade or so. We constantly see the top of the craft guys like Cam Hanes or whoever that have all their gear dialed in specifically for them to operate a level most of us never will.
That makes newcomers feel like they have to do all that same stuff. Man, I kill deer with a Mission MXR and store bought arrows cut to length. Don't overthink it.
Dude stay out of the rabbit hole, 99% of people building their arrows just think it’s cool, they aren’t actually gaining any function. Just have a shop assemble some for you
Do you have a decent archery shop near you? We can give you all our opinions but there’s something to be said about getting hands on guidance from a tech in a shop with an assortment of arrows.
As others have said, find a pro shop to set up your arrows. You don't need to jump into building your own arrows right away, plenty of guys hunt with pre-fletched arrows and stock inserts/nocks. Easton Axis, Gold Tip Hunter, Easton 6.5mm bowhunter are some examples of common arrow shafts that a lot of guys use. However, you want your arrows built to match your draw weight and draw length. A pro shop is going to be the best place to go to get help with that. And last thing, practice with the arrows that you're hunting with. Don't get some random cheap arrows to practice with and try to switch to a different set of arrows for hunting.
Yes and yes. Better to buy and hunt with less expensive arrows you also practice with than to use expensive arrows to hunt and cheap arrows to practice
I would recommend a Gold Tip Hunter. Decent all around arrow that won't break the bank. Once you get a set of shootable arrows, then you can play with higher FOC, inserts, etc.. I build my own arrows now, but started with off the shelf setups. I would stay away from Carbon Express brand. They size there spines differently than any other brand. GL
As others have said, you don’t need to roll your own. You can buy ready made arrows. Nearly any name brand arrow can work fine. Avoid the cheapest arrows, and the no-name generics, as they are typically inconsistent and often they are weaker than the spine measurements printed on their shafts or posted on their online listing. The most important thing (and this is absolutely critical) is that you match the SPINE of the arrow shaft (a measure of its stiffness/flexibilty) to(1) the draw weight of your bow, (2) the weight of your arrow points, and (3) your arrow length. If you change any one of those 3 things, you may need to get new arrows to have the correct shaft flexibility. An archery shop is the easiest way to get set up with the right arrows. Take your bow with you to the shop if you go this route so they can measure your draw length and actual draw weight. If that option isn’t available to you, you can do it yourself using online arrrow spine calculators. All legit arrow manufacturers have spine charts or spine calculators available online for their arrows. You will quickly learn that you need to know the three details listed in the previous paragraph - draw weight, point weight, and shaft length. You can choose arrow points for hunting from 100 to over 400 grains. Most are 100 or 125 grains. You get better penetration with heavier points, especially at longer distances, but your trajectory gets progressively worse as you increase projectile weight. Target archers typically use lighter points to get flatter trajectories - they are not as concerned with target penetration. 125 or 150 grains is probably a good weight to start with if your primary objective is hunting. Choose a point weight, then get broadheads and field point practice heads of identical weight. Don’t try to practice with one head weight and hunt with a different weight. You will need someone to help you figure out your required arrow length. Have your helper mark an arrow with a sharpie an inch forward of the arrow rest while you hold the arrow at full draw. Some calculators ask for additional info like let-off percentage, insert weight, etc. Try several of the calculators and spine charts to see if you get the same spine recommendations from several sources. Once you know what spine and arrow length you need, buy a mid-priced option from one of the big names. There are lots of good options. As another commenter noted, Carbon Express uses confusing shaft size numbers that look like spine ratings, but they are not. Avoid that brand - the risk of getting the wrong spine is not worth the trouble. They made a very bad marketing choice in how they label their shafts. As you have discovered, arrow sizing is a rabbit hole that leads to a maze of choices. Figuring out what spine you need is the most important factor, though. Get that right and you will be fine.
I’m a new Bow Hunter as well, just picked one up last month. The Pro Shop I bought my stuff from takes Arrow ordered and they usually take care of the details. I would recommend finding a pro shop near you and asking them. Sorry if this isn’t any help. I’m slowly understanding more and more every day on the details but I’m definitely not advanced enough to build my own or even notice a difference.
Arrows can be as basic or as complex as you want to make them. A lot of bow guys like to tinker and that is were building your own arrows comes into play. The biggest thing is to simply get a quality arrow with the correct spine for your bow and broadhead set up. If you want something more than the out of the box options but don't want to go the build you're own route you can see if your local shop will build you something custom or you can look online for a builder. I follow one builder on Instagram who makes some good looking arrows. You just provide your bow and broadhead specs and he'll do the building based on your specs and preferences.
I say learn how to do it. You can buy a cheap cutoff saw from Harbor Freight and an arrow stone square. I have $20 arrows and $3 Temu arrows that I make. You can get the nocks and inserts with the arrows or off of Amazon. Get some epoxy and you’re all set. Depending on your draw length you probably are at around a 350 to 400 spine at that poundage. I shoot a lot of bare shafts in the off season so I don’t need ready made arrows and I like to nock tune. Once it’s near dead on I’ll fletch or shrink fletch em. I like the flexibility. To each their own however.
Are you happy with the arrows from Temu? Any major issues with qc?
They are the blue carbon express predators from Korea. You can get them in Ali Express a little cheaper. I have a dozen and they all spin well and group well. I’m currently shooting them out to 30 yards without fletchings and only lost one stray. After I nock tuned them they group really well. I would use them for hunting without concern.
One over simplified way to possibly think about this…for now:: A) If you’re going to shoot mechanicals, don’t stress rabbit holing (yet) with building your own; just get some decent arrows and paper tune and move on with your life. B) If you’re going to shoot fixed blades, then build and tune and bare shaft and all that shit to get the ‘truest to field point’ flight Most shops will have some fletched easton axis to get you started. For set up recommendations, everyone here has great advice. Personally, I like a +/- 475-500 gn arrow with whatever weight Shwackers will get me that weight. I get pass through on deer no problem, however would probably move to a fixed if NM ever actually issues me an elk tag………. Anyways just one idiots opinion.
I've noticed this trend in almost everything the last decade or so. We constantly see the top of the craft guys like Cam Hanes or whoever that have all their gear dialed in specifically for them to operate a level most of us never will. That makes newcomers feel like they have to do all that same stuff. Man, I kill deer with a Mission MXR and store bought arrows cut to length. Don't overthink it.
Dude stay out of the rabbit hole, 99% of people building their arrows just think it’s cool, they aren’t actually gaining any function. Just have a shop assemble some for you